Innholdsfortegnelse for Volume 119 - 2023 i Vacations & Travel

GOING THROUGH A GLOBAL PANDEMIC WAS ALWAYS GOING TO LEAVE US changed, but it’s only now travel is back in full swing that it’s becoming clear just how changed we are – and how differently we’re seeing the world. We’re still in love with travel, absolutely, but we’re choosier now and travelling in a more intentional way. We’re slowing down and looking to immerse ourselves in local culture, in meaningful experiences, and embarking on travels that tread lightly on the planet. It feels good to travel in this way, and it does good too. In this jam-packed issue of Vacations & Travel, we inspire you with some of the world’s most incredible slow-travel adventures. From rafting in Canada and cycling in Tasmania to riding the railways of Switzerland and cruising…

PALM SPRINGS #CELEBRITIES #ARCHITECTURE WHEN FRANK SINATRA MOVED into Twin Palms Estate, he planted a flagpole in his garden between two tall palms so he could raise a Jack Daniel’s flag to let his neighbours know it was cocktail hour. As I stand by the glistening piano-shaped pool, I can just imagine him on a balmy evening with his favourite whisky in hand, leaning on the bar as he waited for Dean Martin or Humphrey Bogart to waltz in for a martini. Sinatra commissioned his first home in Palm Springs in 1947 from modernist architect E. Stewart Williams. He famously swaggered into a local realtor wearing a sailor’s cap, eating an ice-cream and saying that he wanted a house built in time for his Christmas party. The low-slung house is…

HEGRA, SAUDI ARABIA’S FIRST UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, now has an official subtext: ‘The World’s Masterpiece’. To be honest, I first thought this a little hyperbolic. Really? It belongs to the world? To me? But that was before I went there and saw it and felt it for myself. I won’t be quibbling now. It is a treasure. More than 130 tombs, funerary facades, inscriptions and cave drawings cut, etched and painted by the ancient Nabateans in outrageously monumental outcrops of sedimentary sandstone; a gnarled geology hewn over eons by wind and rain bursting skywards out of a scrub-sprinkled, golden desert. The Nabateans, who also left us Petra in southern Jordan, flourished here from the 2nd Century BC to the 1st Century AD. Petra, however, is crowded, trampled by more…

IT’S SUNRISE IN PORT MACQUARIE and from my bed at Sails I can see a lone paddleboarder gliding across the blushing, mirror-like surface of the Hastings River. I’ll be doing the same in a couple of hours – hopefully in the company of the resident dolphins that are naturally attracted to this postcard-perfect pocket of New South Wales, halfway between Sydney and Brisbane. But before I take to the water, I have a date with Port Mac’s other cute-as-a-button critters: its koalas. This region has one of the largest koala populations on the east coast of Australia, but their population was threatened when bushfires tore through the Lake Innes Nature Reserve in late 2019. The Port Macquarie Koala Hospital, operating since 1973, was inundated with injured animals. It set up…

A dazzling debut With its dramatic interiors, lavish all-verandah suites and imaginative culinary offerings, Oceania Cruises’ latest luxury small ship, Vista, is set to make waves. The cruise line has already fast-tracked Vista’s debut in response to “unprecedented demand”, and introduced a new seven-day ‘Founder’s Cruise’ departing on May 13, a week earlier than scheduled. Hosted by Oceania Cruises founder, Frank J. Del Rio, the inaugural cruise will whisk guests from Rome to Venice on a journey punctuated by exclusive celebrations, captivating scenery and visits to hidden gems across Italy, Greece and Croatia. oceaniacruises.com Epicurean experiences in the Mediterranean Dreaming of devouring tapas in Barcelona or exploring the farmer’s markets in Corsica? Atlas Ocean Voyages has launched a new range of epicurean expeditions serving up fine dining experiences alongside food-focused…

Day 1 11am Check in to the Reef House, set amid soaring 500-year-old melaleuca trees. This whitewashed, adults-only retreat is the epitome of barefoot luxe, from the beach-inspired décor – all blue and taupe – to the ocean-facing restaurant and seriously sexy pool; there’s even a waterfall. reefhouse.com.au 12pm Follow the queues to Numi for a lunchtime sweet treat. This place never fails to disappoint with its ice-cream sandwiches; freshly made sorbet in flavours like coconut, strawberry and pandan; decadent ice-cream – think mint-choc and honeycomb; and fresh juices. 1pm Join a ‘Low Isles’ cruise with Sailaway Port Douglas, 40 kilometres north of Palm Cove. The eco-certified tour will see you sail across the World Heritage-listed Great Barrier Reef, dropping you at dreamy islets to snorkel with stingrays and turtles…

Eco boom Traveller demand is fuelling the rise of eco-conscious lodgings, and it’s easier than ever to find them. Small Luxury Hotels of the World (SLH) launched its ‘Considerate Collection’ a year ago with 25 hotels and it has since grown by 70 per cent, adding 43 properties strongly aligned with the Global Sustainable Tourism Council’s (GSTC) framework. Keemala in Phuket (pictured) is among the hotels to demonstrate a deep-rooted respect for its natural surrounds and community, earning it a place in SLH’s Considerate Collection. Keemala actively supports the Royal Thai Navy’s Sea Turtle Conservation project, while keeping two resident rescue water buffaloes who enjoy keeping the grass in order. slh.com/considerate Slow travel by train taking off in Europe No longer the sole domain of backpackers, overnight train travel in…

With its laid-back vibe, golden sand beach and buzzing café scene, Terrigal on NSW’s Central Coast has earned its place as one of the region’s top-rated towns. And it’s here, right on the headland, with some of the best views of this picturesque region that you’ll find Star of the Sea Terrigal – 52 retro-luxe apartments. Each sprawling apartment has Italian marble floors, oversized balconies, full kitchens, and most have three bathrooms (and a spa bath in the main ensuite). Friends will spend days lazing on the beach, browsing the nearby boutiques or diving among kaleidoscopic marine life. And when the sun starts to set, head to one of the many rooftop bars for cocktails and live music. If you’re travelling with family, expect kids so worn out at the…

DRIVING ROUTE 66 ALONE, YOU can sing as loud and as badly as you like. I do both. Bob Dylan’s Blowin’ in the Wind is my road-trip anthem, warbled as I scan the sky, knowing Oklahoma’s dreaded tornadoes are not on the radar. In the heart of southwestern USA, Oklahoma has gone from a flyover state to a destination in its own right, and you couldn’t script a trip with better characters, memorable locations or unique experiences. The bellowing of thousands of cows at sunrise is all of those. At 6am I’m watching cowboys corral 10,000 head of cattle through the arena at Oklahoma National Stockyards – the biggest stocker and feeder cattle market in the world. Auctioneers Brian Marlin and Bailey Ballou have mesmerising chants, the constant rumble of…

JASPER WAS IN MY HEAD for a long time before it was in my heart. It started as an earworm planted by Canadian troubadour, Gordon Lightfoot, but became an itch that needed to be scratched, all thanks to the opening verse of one song, Canadian Railroad Trilogy. “There was a time in this fair land when the railroad did not run / When the wild majestic mountains stood alone against the sun / Long before the white man and long before the wheel / When the green dark forest was too silent to be real.” These images of alpine majesty and forest silence have haunted me for years – they still do – and make my legs tingle whenever I hear the words. Although Lightfoot didn’t identify a specific place,…

SWITZERLAND #SWITZERLAND #RAIL SWITZERLAND’S SCENERY NEVER gets old. Regardless of where you go in this postcard-perfect country, it sears into your soul, and no sooner have you left than you feel its pull to return. It’s not surprising given it’s all snow-clad peaks, blue-ice glaciers and aqua lakes, where on verdant hills, quaint chalets with flower boxes burst with vivid red and pink flowers and the sound of cow bells ring through the valley. Switzerland knows its luscious landscapes are more than just pretty, and it has big plans to protect them. Sustainable travel is, in fact, so high on its agenda (it’s already one of the greenest countries in the world) that it has launched ‘Swisstainable’ – a global commitment to the environment, and the Swiss Federal Council has…

#NSW #ROADTRIPS IF YOU’VE EVER HOLIDAYED IN NSW, you’d be forgiven for heading to the same places on the radars of countless other holidaymakers. But a little know-how is all you need to escape the crowds and discover the other treasures the state has to offer. From weekends away to week-long road trips, pack up your car and get behind the wheel – these itineraries are big on eye-opening scenery, quirky attractions, and natural wonders you won’t find anywhere else. SOAK UP THE OUTBACK Washing your worries away in natural thermal waters is what this itinerary is all about – there’s a hot spring to steep in at every town you’ll visit all the way to Lightning Ridge. You’ll need at least a week to travel the 1,090 kilometres of…

THE PLAN: TO CYCLE THROUGH Tasmania over three weeks, carrying a tent, bedding and all my luggage in panniers on the back of my bike. I would disembark the Spirit of Tasmania ferry in Devonport, traverse the tranquil Tamar Valley with a stop in Launceston, and travel down the notoriously beautiful East Coast until I reached Hobart. The problem: I’m not a strong cyclist or a fit person generally. Ever since the successive lockdowns in Melbourne, my muscles have come to resemble pudding, while my belly has kept up with Australia’s inflation rate. But if I can do this, anyone can. And if there’s anywhere to try it, it’s Tasmania. With its short distances between towns, mild climate in summer and diverse natural beauty, those in the know say it’s…

RIVER CRUISING#RIVERCRUISING #EUROPE IF YOU’RE KEEN TO LEAVE BEHIND bustling airports and overpopulated tourist sites, river cruising offers an appealing alternative. Settle in and spend your days on waterfront walks and immersing yourself in cultural activities and enriching tours, returning to wine and dine. We’ve rounded up some of the world’s best river cruises for your travelling pleasure. No matter which itinerary you choose, indulge in the opportunity to slow down and savour the journey – we guarantee you’ll return home feeling utterly transformed. ROOM WITH A VIEW Uninterrupted views are just one of the drawcards of Avalon Waterways’ award-winning river cruises. Each stateroom boasts panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows so you can take in Europe’s most bewitching sights without straying from the warmth of your bed. Sit back and drink in…

GETTING AROUND UNDER YOUR own steam is a down-to-earth mode of transport that reveals a destination slowly, deeply and memorably – and has the feelgood bonus of shrinking your travel footprint. If you live in Australia, it’s all but impossible to travel overseas without air travel, or via a cruise, but what you do once you get there is another story. Consider ditching cars, buses, trains and more flights for a bicycle, kayak or simply relying on your own two feet to get around for at least some of your journey – it might just be the best part of your trip. WALK THIS WAY It may not be the quickest way to get from A to B, but walking is one of the best ways to mingle with locals,…

TRIED & TESTED It’s the colours that will strike you most here. Arched overwater bungalows snake across a cerulean lagoon, and on the other side, a turquoise ocean glistens under a bluer-than-blue sky. Lush palm trees sway in the breeze, which carries the traditional Fijian welcome song Bula Maleya, and with it comes an instant wave of relaxation. Days are spent slipping between the three pools, having a massage in the spa, or lounging on your daybed on the private balcony of your adult-only bure. But it’s not all about the adults, although there’s certainly plenty to do if you are on a couple’s escape. Soak in the adults-only infinity pool and, for the seasoned surfer, it’s just a 20-minute boat ride to the world-class surf spot Cloud Break. FAMILY…

1 Rafting in the wilds of Canada It may be known as the wildest river in North America, but beginners are welcome on this 11-day rafting trip down Canada’s Tatshenshini River. Making your way from Whitehorse, Yukon, through the largest bio-preserve in the world, you’ll paddle by vast glaciers, through a lake dotted with icebergs, and past wide gravel riverbanks popular with grizzly bears, moose and mountain goats. Birds flying overhead, your days will be spent floating along peaceful waters and whooping with excitement on stretches of whitewater before bedding down for the night in riverside camps. A short flight via bush plane will transport you back to your starting point – invigorated and with a lifetime’s supply of fond memories. nahanni.com 2 Become a Mongolian nomad If…

THEY SAY GORILLA TREKKING is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, yet I find myself clambering through Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park with mud-coated shoes for the fourth time in search of the rare mountain gorillas. As a wildlife conservation advocate, I know just how special the gorilla trekking experience is. This is because mountain gorillas are the world’s most endangered ape, only found in small portions of protected Afromontane forests in northwest Rwanda, southwest Uganda and eastern Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). In its natural habitats, the total mountain gorilla population is estimated to be 1,063 individuals, as per the last census in 2016. This low number means they are critically endangered, which is why Rwanda has thrown everything behind protecting these animals. So much so that every baby gorilla born is honoured…

JETLAG DOES HAVE AN UPSIDE. On my first morning at the Royal Albion Hotel in Broadstairs, I’m awake to see the sun peep up from the ocean right outside my window, slowly lighting up this picturesque chocolate box of a coastal town, the horizon ablaze in orange. The thought occurs: “Did Charles Dickens also see the sun rise in this same spot?”. He was a frequent visitor to the town and a plaque on the hotel exterior announces that part of Nicholas Nickleby was written on the premises. You can’t turn around, it seems, on this wedge of the Kent Coast, collectively known as Thanet, without bumping into a blue plaque. TO TOWN WE GO Thanet has a handful of towns, the main ones being Margate, Broadstairs and Ramsgate, tucked…

MOUNT ASO VOLCANO IS IN A good mood. Plumes of gas from Nakadake crater are within the ‘safe’ range. An easterly breeze blows them away from the viewing edge and new safety bunkers promise to deflect the heftiest of lava-laden missiles should Aso lose its temper. It’s my first trip to Japan, and much like the volcano (for now), it is instantly apparent that there’s an air of calm. The city hustle is a polite ‘bump-along’ and the airport an endless procession of respectful head bowing and chorus of arigato (thank you). Even in the shuffle of shops, on motorways and in tiny, packed restaurants, there’s courtesy. AN ODE TO LITERATURE Kyushu is the third largest of Japan’s four main islands – the bigger siblings being Honshu and Hokkaido. I…

THE WOMAN UNFOLDS A professionally drawn design and flattens it out to show the artist. It’s the outline of an elegant dame set inside the letter V. “She’s 73 and this is her first tattoo,” her son tells me. “And this is her first cruise.” We’re in Squid Ink, the tattoo parlour on board Virgin Voyages’ Valiant Lady, about to set sail from Barcelona on a seven-night itinerary called The Irresistible Med. We’d boarded the ship a couple of hours earlier, and now we’re on a quick discovery tour. It’s my first cruise too and I’m impressed, partly because there are no children on board. Not that there’s anything wrong with kids, but their presence does change the ambience. So far, we’ve been welcomed by twerking dancers, passed a DJ…

Flight Number: TR2 Aircraft: Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner Seat: 3F Duration: Eight hours If flying a budget airline conjures up images of frantically repacking bags to make sure you’re not overweight at the gate, long queues, no frills and a seat that ensures you’re up close and personal with the person next to you, it may be time to check out ScootPlus – the premium economy offering from Scoot, Singapore Airlines’ low-cost airline. THE CABIN Whilst still a low-cost airline, Scoot mostly flies the Dreamliner on its long-haul routes, which has a light, airy and modern feel. ScootPlus offers the ‘essential’ frills – priority check-in and boarding, so you’re first on and off the plane, and a roomy cabin with a comfy 56-centimetre-wide leather seat in a 2-3-2 configuration. There’s 96…

East meets west Tradition meets modern day at the newly renovated spa at Anantara Chiang Mai Resort in northern Thailand. Meet with a registered therapist and choose from a variety of innovative treatments such as ‘pao ya’ for abdominal bloating, where the belly is gently massaged, then herbs are set aflame to release heat and medicinal healing (not for the faint-hearted!). Combine it with vitamin-infused IV drips for the ultimate pick-me-up. Bed down in luxurious suites and rooms and dine in the 100-year-old heritage house, formerly the British Consulate. anantara.com Urban retreat In downtown Bangkok, a stay at Mövenpick BDMS Wellness Resort Bangkok gives you direct access to the adjacent state-of-the-art BDMS Wellness Clinic. Here, you can choose from a range of treatments including physiotherapy, digestive wellness and dental work.…

EATING OUT IS ONE OF THE MOST pleasurable parts of travel, but it’s all the more enjoyable when you know you’re supporting a dining establishment with sustainability at the forefront of its philosophy. By their very nature, hospitality venues generate an enormous amount of waste. Just as we at home throw out peelings and scraps, the packaging ingredients come in and leftover food, so too do restaurants – just on a bigger scale. Ronni Kahn, founder of Australian food rescue charity OzHarvest, sums up the devastating impact of wasted food succinctly: “Food waste feeds climate change. A third of all food goes to waste, so it is a huge problem.” Just one lettuce thrown into landfill takes a whopping 25 years to decompose. “If you put that lettuce into compost,…