Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2016 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

This month on travelandleisureasia.com AN EP IC ROAD TRIP THROUGH KYRGYZSTAN AND UZBEKISTAN Adventurers can drive for long stretches of the old Silk Road, and sleep in boutique comfort. THE UL TIMATE GUIDE TO REMOTE WORKING Digital nomads around the globe are ditching the 9 to 5 to travel the world for months without ever quitting their jobs. DINING IN SEOUL Few places sport a more fabulous array of culinary diversity than the South Korean capital. We explore a few foodie favorites. +LOOKOUT High style at the Shangri-La at the Fort, Manila; a serene retreat on Burma’s Inle Lake; meet Taichung’s star chef; Brooke Shields shares her travel tips; the latest travel deals and more. travelandleisureasia.com DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS Available on iOS, Android, Win 8 and Zinio Desktop…

Supermodel and cookbook author Danielle Graham dishes to Mark Lean about her favorite places in Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur. Few foreign models have been able to captivate Hong Kong’s famously fickle fashion world as long as Danielle Graham, the still freshfaced Eurasian stunner who landed in the city at the impressionable age of 18. She quickly bagged the plum Olay China spokeswoman role, a gig she has retained for more than a decade. After countless magazine covers, shoots for Marie Claire Hong Kong, Elle Hong Kong and Harper’s Bazaar, and television commercials, now she has debuted her first cookbook, On the Table at Home (onthetableathome.com; US$53). Born in Malaysia to a Chinese mother and an Irish father, the multi-ethnic Graham has ample fodder for global cuisine, and now that…

From rubbery mys tery meat to sad pasta days past al dente, most airline meals are grim. Bitty galley kitchens would be enough to make feeding the masses daunting, even if dry air and low cabin pressures didn’t blunt our sense of taste. A number of airlines in recent years have risen to the challenge though, creating dining options that are not merely palatable, but actually pleasurable. +The latest to up their game is Hainan Airlines (hainanairlines.com), which launched its Restaurant on Board collaboration with a Michelin-lauded team last August. For now, the fancier fare is only available on European routes, but there are plans to expand. + Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) helped pioneer the concept, hauling in a panel of culinary gurus like Yoshihiro Murata, Georges Blanc and Carlo Cracco—with…

“When it comes to Asian cooking, having a great cleaver is essential. I recommend buying one at the original branch of Wang Mazi (88-1 Meishi Jie; 86-10/6336-5740), a 400-year-old brand that still makes the best knives in China.” Sarah Keenlyside, tour operator and founder of Bespoke Travel Company (bespoketravelcompany.com) “On the weekends, I always head to Panjiayuan Antique Market to hunt for cool Chinese accessories and furniture—things like vintage watches, silver jewelry, handpainted lacquer chests, and tiny stools.” Liu Lu, fashion designer and founder of Luvon by Liu Lu (luvonbyliulu.com) “If you’re interested in contemporary art, the 798 and Caochangdi districts are popular, but there are also places near the center of the city to see, including the Arrow Factory (arrow factory. org.cn), which is set in a former vegetable…

In Small-scale, communityfocused projects like Standard Architecture’s Micro-Yuan’er, which explores how Beijing’s historic hutongs can be rescued and repurposed for modern living by incorporating social spaces like libraries and playgrounds. Out Showy architectural behemoths, such as Herzog & de Meuron Bird’s Nest Stadium. In A growing appreciation for gourmet coffee, which locals sip at cafés like Moka Bros (left; mokabros.com) and Café Zarah (cafezarah.com). Out Starbucks green-tea lattes and Frappuccinos. In Wearing sophisticated Chinese designers, like men’s-wear darling Xander Zhou and couture heavyweight Guo Pei (shown at right), whose dress Rihanna wore to the 2015 Met Gala. Out International logo worship.…

Bali may be a tropical paradise, but with so many regions and things to see, it’s also go-town. We sent international travel photographer Ken Kochey around the island with the new 20.1-megapixel Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II premium conpact camera. The result is this stunning chronicle of a lovely day. But you don’t have to be a pro to get wow shots. The 4.2x optical zoom lens allows you to zoom from as wide as 24mm and as far as 100mm. The DIGIC 7 image processor is built for enhanced image stabilisation, generating sharp and better quality images. The 180-degree tiltable LCD touchscreen tilts up 180 degrees and down 45 degrees, letting you experience a range of shooting perspectives. Wi-fi and NFC connectivity get you online. “The PowerShot G7…

“GO ON A JUNGLE WALK —THAT ’S ECOTOURISM . Look at a mountain—that’s ecotourism. Ride a bicycle—that’s ecotourism,” quips Peter Jensen, a tourism sustainability consultant, on the seemingly unavoidable practice of green washing. This sentiment dovetails unfortunately with a unesco report issued this year that contained a worrying caveat about “the increasing vulnerability of World Heritage sites to climate change impacts and the potential implications for global tourism.” Key takeaway? Climate change is exacerbating problems caused by unplanned tourism development and uncontrolled or poorly managed visitor access, as well as other threats and stresses. But what’s a responsible traveler to do? A key poverty-reducing mechanism, tourism provides one out of every 11 jobs in the world, according to the United Nations World Tourism Council. The entire tourism industry generated $7.2…

DEEP NIGHT, IN A TROPICAL JUNGLE ATOP A MURKY RIVER, MIST RISES LIKE A GHOST. I am nervous. Actually, I am scared. Really scared. In my mind, crocodiles and tigers are already stuffing me with forest herbs for their rollicking jungle feast. Kham, a boyish, 42-year-old river guide, is undaunted. After all, this is his backyard. Standing at the prow of our slender long-tailed boat, Kham plunges a sturdy bamboo pole into the shallow, inky waters of the Nam Et River, and eases the skiff effortlessly into the darkness. It is pitch black except for Kham’s headlamp, which he aims with predator-like precision to pick out a slow loris here, a barking deer there, an impassive monitor lizard hanging motionless on a gnarled trunk. I am part of a small…

1 Francisco Guerrero photographer Asia Through Three Lenses Page 94 “There is a very vibrant surf scene in the Philippines now with some emerging globallevel talent,” Guerrero says. “With the laid-back vibe in places like Siargao, La Union and Zambales, I always have great subject matter.” Despite his inability to surf, the Manila-based photographer can’t stay out of the water. “I have always promised myself to take some time off and get on a board. But whenever I am at a surf spot I can’t resist putting on the fins and grabbing the camera.” His tips for great aquatic pics? “Safety first, be patient, and know when its time to head back to the beach for a beer.” Instagram: @studioguerrero. 2 Monsicha Hoonsuwan writer The True Thai Page 58 “I’m…

I flipped through soft peachy sheets of paper that will outlive even my great-great-greatgrandchildren. The Vietnamese art of manufacturing Dó (pronounced “zo”) paper dates back to the 13th-century Red River Delta, and the resulting sheets can last up to a staggering 800 years. Because of its longevity, Dó is the preferred canvas for Dong Ho prints, allegoric vignettes produced to celebrate Tet, the Vietnamese New Year. And yet the craft was largely lost to the past and practically begging for a modern makeover. Enter Zó Paper (fb.com/Zopaper; notebooks from VND160,000), a hip boutique that opened in Hanoi’s railway district of Ba Dinh this May. The shop sells Dó paper notebooks, postcards and calendars on thick smudge-proof pages that look truly fit to last for centuries, while Zó’s assortment of origami…

Los Angeles comedian Ali Wong has become a household name since the May premiere of her hit Netflix special, Baby Cobra. But before the fame, Wong struggled with life on the road as a young comic. “It was lonely,” she says. “You go to this new town, and you don’t know anybody.” Wong spent her days searching for Asian places to eat: dim sum in Vancouver, a Hmong market in Minneapolis. “Food is a huge source of comfort for me,” she explains. Meals have been a touchstone on Wong’s travels since she was a kid, growing up in northern California with parents who were eager to see new places, children in tow. She can still recall some of the best dishes from her childhood trips: “In Hue, Vietnam, we had…

Driving through the state of Madhya Pradesh, in the heart of Indian tiger country, it was difficult to reconcile the tranquil scenes flashing past my window with nonstop reports about the animal’s slide toward extinction. Tigers, it seemed, were the topic of the moment. As I set off from New Delhi on a six-day safari, global specialists were converging to discuss how many of the world’s largest felines are left, and how best to save them. With so many vested interests resting on the creature’s survival (it’s estimated that just six of India’s tiger reserves are worth US$1.2 billion to the Indian economy) it’s hard to know whose version of reality to believe. On the one hand, the World Wildlife Fund and Global Tiger Forum claim the worldwide population has…

The Entrepreneur, Shanghai Bunny Yan, founder of The Squirrelz, a startup that connects designers creating new products out of fashion waste. What gave you the idea for this project? I launched The Squirrelz because I saw so many designers that were already using upcycling methods to create awesome, fashionable products. Not only are these products colorful, but they also have high potential to be massproduced, because a lot of that overstock is repetitive. If you make jewelry out of watches, you’ll continue to find broken watch parts. What normally happens to fashion waste and why is there so much of it? A very interesting problem is that brands do not usually own their own factories. So when a factory makes a mistake or there’s overstock, it’s not the brand’s problem.…

SUPERSA VER Angsana Velavaru , Maldives Getting to the cloistered shores of Valvaru is simple with a free seaplane transfer to and from the resort. A private beachfront villa and a Maldivian feast at an oceansuspended veranda await your arrival. The Deal Fly Me to Angsana: a night in a Beachfront villa, from US $520 for two, through December 23. Save 63%. angsana.com. BEA CH PATTAYA Veranda Resort Pattaya Trendily designed Veranda Resort in Pattaya combines modern luxury with a sense of seafaring life that makes for the perfect place to unwind beach- or poolside. The resort is close enough for you to experience the buzzing neighborhoods of Pattaya, but secluded enough to allow you to recharge. With a free fourth night, you’ll be able to take advantage of all…

shots? If so, you’re part of a solid trend. These days, how can we be more responsible travelers? is a question that arises as often as the sun. As writer Cain Nunns points out in “Disappearing Footprints” (page 81), tourism’s adverse impacts extend beyond the environment to include the communities we visit. This special section highlights new and established green hotel stars in Asia, as well as a collection of green travel apps and gadgets. Ideals outlined in the section are echoed throughout this issue, including in a trio of photographic portfolios (page 94) that each delve into the meaning of community. With the diverse Philippine coastline as his backdrop, photographer Francisco Guerrero turns his focus to several locals who have adopted a small-scale approach to their love of surfing…

It’s one of the largest exhibitions in the world of Banksy’s works and a very well-rounded retrospective,” says curator Steve Lazarides of the newly opened The Art of Banksy. As the subversive street artist’s spokesperson from 1997 to 2008, Lazarides is one of the few people who knows who Banksy really is—though to him, the graffiti master’s work transcends any questions of identity and remains relevant to a global audience, which is why he was so determined to procure these off-street pieces from roughly 40 different private collectors around the world. “I wanted to bring it to a place where people wouldn’t normally get to see his work exhibited,” Lazarides says of his choice of Melbourne for the unauthorized exhibition. “And I think Banksy’s art belongs to the public.” To…

Even as the region’s local breweries amp up production, more foreign beers are hitting our shelves and taps. Here are four stellar imports worth hunting down. Gamma Ray: Beavertown Brewery’s signature beer, ripe with three malts including best pale, is probably the finest pale ale coming out of London. Clean, crisp and redolent of tropical citrus fruits, Gamma Ray is the perfect antidote for sweltering Southeast Asian afternoons. The can’s sci-fi inspired artwork is unmistakable. beavertownbrewery.co.uk. Velvets Ar e Blue: Like the Spontan ales, this spritzy saison from Denmark’s To Øl draws its sour funk from a wild yeast fermentation, while heaps of blueberries contribute a light, fruity backbone. Raspberries replace the blueberries in its sister beer, Roses Are Brett. To Øl is distributed in at least nine Asia-Pacific countries.…

9 A.M. | Start at the Casino Café de Paris with a cappuccino by the slots—entry is free and bets start at 2 euros (casinomonte carlo.com). Then head to Pavillons Monte-Carlo, five pebbleshaped pop-up boutiques from Chanel, Chopard and others. 12 P.M. | Have lunch at the newly renovated Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo seaside spa (thermesmarins montecarlo.com). L’Hirondelle restaurant serves great seafood— sit on the terrace for views of the Prince’s Palace. 3 p.M. | Stick around for a La Prairie treatment followed by a dip in the seawater pool overlooking the Mediterranean. A day pass here starts at €190, but it's complimentary for guests of Hôtel de Paris and Hôtel Hermitage. 7 p.M. | Have dinner at Alain Ducasse’s legendary gilded restaurant, Le Louis XV, which has reopened at Hôtel…

It is that time of year again—the season to spoil your loved ones, and we’re streamlining your shopping list with our top picks for travel-friendly clothing and accessories. This Santa-approved collection of loungeware, sumptuous suitcases, slip-on shoes, work-horse gadgets and the allimportant packable extra bag is sure to make your favorite jet-setters smile. Plus, designer Disaya Sorakraikitikul spends an afternoon in Bangkok showing us her style-forward presents for the high-fashion flyer. Disaya's BANGKOK WEEKEND “I love dressing up every single day, even just for myself,” says Disaya Sorakraikitikul, the Bangkok-based designer whose eponymous label helped put Thailand on the fashion world’s radar more than a decade ago. We asked the in-demand style maven, who debuted her f lagship Disaya Culture (disaya.com) boutique just this fall, to show off her top…

according to an old Balinese legend, Nusa Lembongan rose from the ocean in the 13th century when a necromancer named Dukuh Jumpungan sailed southeast from Bali and sunk his boat in these psychedelic-coralfilled, neon-blue waters. These days, boatloads of mere mortals are intentionally aiming to maroon themselves here on this knockout natural beauty. It’s easy to see why. “This place has it all: breathtaking views, blood-red sunsets, world-class surf, snorkeling, diving,” says Jamie Ragen, a surfer from Sydney I meet on this small satellite 15 kilometers southeast of Bali, which locals like to brag is the best place in the world, short only of Mozambique, to see manta rays. It also has a passionate group of residents dedicated to preserving its pristine mangrove forests, waters stocked with reefs and bioluminescent…

Spa Stud io | Mandarin Oriental The boat you take to the iconic Oriental Spa symbolizes the entire experience: it’s a journey. The new Spa Studio is a whole other animal. Housed in the hotel in a set of former suites, it’s an urban escape for folks who don’t have all day. There’s a waxing bar, and a massage loft where you can grab a cat nap or order champagne with your neck rub. But the stars are the collagenenhancing facials from QMS, created by a German trauma and cosmetic surgeon, that leave pores tight and skin plump (mine included two masks, one Phantom of the Opera-style and the other more Sith Lord-y), and the only Pedi:Mani:Cure Studio in town. French podiatrist Bastien Gonzalez is a beauty-industry rock star…