WITH PALM TREES shooting from the earth like daytime fireworks, year-round balmy weather, and the Indian Ocean licking its craggy coastlines and caramel-colored beaches, the south of Sri Lanka has all the trimmings of a paradisiacal hideaway. But it’s no longer the secret hippie commune it once was. Now, 300-plus-room resorts have cropped up on its shores and gift shops line the road from Unawatuna to Matara.
Ahangama, however, a small village just 40 minutes east of Galle, has been spared. Despite the influx of surfers, yogis and Crossfitters settling down in its terracotta-roofed villas, it still feels like a dusty, palm-fringed little secret. Roti shops, not souvenir stores, still line the coastal road, and the air is perfumed with dried fish and frangipani. In-the-know expats have long kept it…
