Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2015 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

Stephanie Zubiri Writer “The Sweetest Seaport,” page 32, and “Your Own Private Island,” page 66 Castaway essentials Isolation, a great sunset and cold rosé. What island is missing from your story? The ultimate getaway is Amanpulo. It has the most beautiful beach ever—which you can walk for 30 minutes and not meet another soul—and impeccable service so discreet it almost seems sneaky. Their villas are rocking, with private pools, chefs and butlers. It’s great for families or a group trip… but best experienced en amoureux. Would you ever buy an island? Most definitely! In the Philippines they aren’t as expensive as you’d think. The biggest hurdles would be developing it and getting there. But perhaps when I’m old and gray, all the charm would be in that inaccessibility. Nicole Saunders…

Interior designer and cofounder of Tokyo-based Design Studio Spin, Yasuhiro Koichi is as elusive as he is prolific. In recent years, he has worked on some of the most lauded design spaces in hotels, bars and restaurants around the world, with standout projects including the Rock Bar at the Ayana Resort & Spa on the edge of Bali’s JimbaranBay, the Nobu restaurants in Tokyo and Hong Kong, The Restaurant at The Chedi Andermatt, and Foo at the Four Seasons Hotel Shenzhen. “I always try to incorporate a sense of place into my designs,” Koichi says, when he finally finds time to squeeze in an interview. “Every country, city and town has very different customs and cultures.” He has spent weeks in Bali, Hyderabad, Manila, Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur, researching…

1. Apple WatchApple’s first smartwatch lets you pay for coffee, get directions, hail a taxi and more. BEST PRACTICE Use it to put boarding passes on your wrist via Passbook or as your room key at Starwood hotels. FromUS$349; apple.com. 2. Bragi DashEarbuds These Bluetooth, noisecanceling earbuds have built-in biometric capabilities. BEST PRACTICE Clock your steps while listening to a walking tour, thanks to body sensors. US$300; bragi.com. 3. Narrative Clip 2The inconspicuous square clip continuously takes pictures everywhere you go. BEST PRACTICE Stop seeing the world through a lense. You’ll get plenty of cityscapes without pressing a button. US$199; getnarrative.com. 4. June by NetatmoThis bracelet measures and analyzes UV rays. BEST PRACTICENever get sunburned again. June’s companion app notifies you when it’s time to reapply SPF 50. US$129; netatmo.com.…

Uniform I typically fly in jeans, a T-shirt and Azzedine Alaïaballet flats, with a cross-body HermèsJypsiere handbag. On the plane, I use a cashmere pillow and blanket from Banjo& Matilda, my brother’s company. Shopping fix I live in Miami, where the Design District is filled with new stores. One of my favorites is ChromeHearts (chromehearts.com), which sells everything from sweatpants to fine jewelry, including a collection designed by Kate Hudson. Great getaway My son and I recently went hiking, horseback riding and bear-watching at ClayoquotWilderness Resort (wildretreat.com; doubles fromUS$1,598 per person, all-inclusive), in Canada. Homecoming There’s nothing better than returning to Sydney, where my family lives. I love to swim in the famous outdoor pool at BondiIcebergs Club (icebergs.com.au), and I often rent a house in ByronBay so I can go surfing twice…

Checklist A WELL-STOCKED COMFORT KIT The popularroad-trip routes in this part of the world arepretty well trafficked, so you can forgo theemergency kit road flares for niceties such asneck pillows, wet wipes, hand sanitizer, acooler with drinks and snacks, and extra-largezippered plastic bags (for trash). SOFT-SIDED LUGGAGE.Duffels and tote bags,which are easy to squeeze into a stuffed car,are the key to packing effectively. A UNIVERSAL CAR CHARGER.Your smartphoneis your lifeline. Make sure it doesn’t run out ofjuice with a Ventev Dashport q1200 (US$35; ventev.com), which powers updevices lightning fast and works with justabout any phone. MAPPING TOOLS. Discover top trending spots near you with Lyke (free; Android). The beta app integrates real-time ratings from its community of users, so you can decide, based on the colors (green means good) on the…

It’s one of those shimmering Swedish afternoons when everything seems to glow from within: the boathouses on the harbor, all pulsing vermilion red; the windrippled bay, glittering like a million suns; and the chalk-white houses of coastal Fjällbacka, luminous under the Nordic sky. Laughter and ship’s bells echo off the town marina. One could walk eight kilometers out to sea just by hopping across schooners and yachts. (In western Sweden there’s a boat for every man, woman, child and dog.) On the waterside deck at Restaurang Matilda, a rowdy crew is singing Swedish folk tunes, knocking back aquavit and ripping into platters of crayfish. There’s barely enough space to move. If you are Swedish you will register this scene with deep satisfaction—and also, perhaps, a twinge of anxiety. For in…

1 If you can only make oneshopping stop, Kyoto Design House is it. Located in the smart Tadao Ando-designed Niwaka Building and specializing, as its name suggests, in fusing traditional and modern crafts, the clean lines of this store are outdone only by the latest homecraft designs in pottery, silks,paper, wood and leather. kyoto-dh.com/en. 2 Still stylish Ippodo is the place for tea in Kyoto. If you don’t know your sencha from yourmatcha, there’s a small kitchen off to one side of the shop where you can fill in the blanks or a tearoomon the opposite side for trialtastings. Teramachi-dori north of Nijo; 81-75/211-3421; ippodo-tea.co.jp/en. 3 On the edge of Gion sits a treasure of a small shop,Creative Evolution onTraditional Values of Kyoto, Kodaiji Nakatani. The local pottery here comes…

instagram.com/travelandleisureasia Share your favorite photos on Instagram and tag them with #TL Asia for a chance to be featured in the magazine.…

Because it has a heroicstamp of approval. Walk in the footsteps ofPhilippine national heroJosé Rizal, who passedthrough the city beforeheading to Dapitan, andtake a leisurely stroll on thepalm-lined boulevardnamed after him. Ratherthan ponder life-in-exile ashe did, indulge in the manystreet-food stalls thatslowly open up as the sunsets. Enjoy living in thepast? Dumaguete is home toseveral colonial churchesand historic buildings—pass by the Belfry and visitthe City Hall. Because this is tropicalcampus life at its finest. There is a young energy inthis seaside universitytown, and it’s bestexemplified by the tastycheap eats, inexpensive beerand vibrant nightlife. Headto longtime favoriteHayahay Treehouse Bar &Viewdeck (Flores Avenue,PiapiBeach; 63-35/225-3536;dinner and beer for twoP700) for char-grilledbigger-than-your-headlobsters, washed down bysome cold brewskies beforechanneling your innerMarley and letting loose tosome reggae beats. Because dessert is morethan a course here; it is…

Imagine batik minus the kitsch and you get the effortlessly stylish designs of artisanal label Ruzz Gahara ( ruzzgahara.com). This Malaysian brand churns out statement pieces that relate visual stories, both ancient and current, from across the archipelago. The traditional floral prints on fashion-forward resort wear make for breezy looks that go from poolside to candlelit private-island dinners. Big on “fresh and contemporary motifs representing the essence of Malaysian arts,” as cofounder and brand director Hanifi Triff Thamid describes the label, the creations can be as simple as a sarong-pleated silhouette, or more poetic, like the Gilded Pigment line. Think airy pieces splashed in the colors of the sky after seasonal monsoon storms on Malaysia’s east coast. Guri, the Summer 2015 collection, is all about the ketam guri flower, believed to…

MAZU The Bamboo Vesper The popularity of this Hong Kong brand’sdouble-needle stitched swim trunks is as fast-growing as the bamboogrove that inspired the print. For extra indie cred, the graphics werecreated by local artist Marc Allante. mazuswimwear.com; HK$1,400. MADE IN PARADISE Island Time We dare you to feel anything but tiki-tropical wearingthese cheeky digital-print swimmers by Hong Kong’s streetwear-stylebad boys, Made in Paradise. Hula girls, umbrella drinks, coconuts:Yeah, dude, there’s officially a party on your swim pants. 1800-paradise.com; US$80. TIMO Forest by Yune These playful trunks exemplify Timo’s mission ofbringing bon vivant flare to the beaches of Thailand. This is thelongest model in the line, so you can sunbathe knowing the forestanimals will be the only things peeking out. timotrunks.com; US$130. VILEBREQUIN Superflex Tropics The godfather of high-end trunks, Vilebrequin—with…

Q+A I’VE BEEN THE VICTIM OF MORE THAN A FEW AIRLINE AND TRAVEL COMPANY MESS-UPS AND MISADVENTURES. HOW DO I GET MY MONEY BACK WHEN THINGS GO WRONG? Whether it’s a missed connection that leaves you stranded or a wayward suitcase with all your bare necessities, sometimes our journeys don’t quite go as planned. When luck turns foul though, there are often ways to salvage something from your travails. Your flight is delayed A slightly longer layovermay be no big deal, but if itdrags on for hours it cancost you precious beach timeor, worse, make you missyour next flight. If the latter happens to be the case, some airlines will spring for accommodation while you wait. Even some budget options such as AirAsia (airasia.com) will comp a hotel, food costs and…

And this is just a lower-caste wedding,” whispers Tasya, who with her friend Tommy is one of my two partners in gluttony for the day. We’ve been delayed in our quest for babi guling by a swarm of women in towering, gilded headdresses and embroidered sarongs that has invaded the street. This being Bali, the rickety motorbikes and cars part for the procession, rather than the other way around, and just like that a major road is closed until who-knows-when. “At an upper-caste one, the ornaments are even higher and even heavier.” “There’s always something unexpected going on around here,” Tommy says. Maybe, but these guys have volunteered to take me down Nusa Dua’s narrow alleys for some real Balinese food—specifically a porcine extravaganza—and our destination, Warung Pak Dobeil, is…

MIZUKI You’d be hard-pressed to find a more stylishkaiseki lunch or dinner than at the Japanese restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton. Chef Masahiko Miura has a keen sense for seasonal ingredients and flavors, and isn’t afraid to experiment—think Camembert tempura as well as more traditional local asparagus. 543 Hokoden-cho; 81-75/746-5555; kaiseki dinner from ¥11,000 perperson. SYOURAIAN Kyoto is known for its tofu dishes, and a lunch at Syouraian is a must for anyone who loves the subtleties of soy milk. Book well in advance for either the 11:30 a.m. or 1:30p.m. seating.Sagakamenoo-cho; 81-75/861-0123; lunch sets from ¥3,800. YAKITORI HITOMI Modest in every respect except for the flavorful chicken dishes, the 20-odd-seat institution requires reservations even when completely empty. Order the tsukune tare (chicken meatballs with mustard) andmomo (chicken thigh seasoned with…

Contact me@CKucway chrisk@mediatransasia.com CAN YOU SUM UP WHAT YOU EXPECT OF YOUR next vacation in a single word? It’s not a trick question. The answer comes easily when you reflect on your past journeys, when you experienced that singular moment for which no other reaction would suffice but “Wow.” At their best, our travels should take us away from the norm with encounters that surprise us, and they should stick in our minds long after we’ve experienced them. Enter Mr. Wow, Vietnamese guide extraordinaire. The carefree manner in whichhe navigates Phu Quoc (“The Sweet Spot,” page 76), an island known mostly for fish sauce, seems perfectly appropriate to our deputy editor Jeninne Lee-St. John. She visits “for the laid-back vibe that lingers even as the island slowly but surely heads…

When it opened in 2008, Pretty Beach House—with three private pool pavilions in a magical cliffside setting run by a crack team of chefs, sommeliers, butlers and spa professionals—quickly made a name for itself as the pinnacleof luxury. But the goods weren’t to last. In 2012, a bushfire gutted its main building and the doors were bolted shut. Following a multimillion dollar rebuild that adds to the property a two-story penthouse and artworks by the likes ofSidney Nolan and Arthur Boyd, PrettyBeach House reopened in April with a single-minded objective: to reclaim its title of Australia’s most private and exclusive guesthouse. prettybeachhouse.com; doubles withfull board from A$2,000.…

MUMBAI | THE BOMBAY CANTEEN The Chef Floyd Cardoz, a pioneer of haute Indian cuisine inNew York City. New Digs A colonial-inspired space near theworld’s tallest residential tower. The Dish Cardoz pays homageto his Goan roots with creations like pork vindaloo tacos; alsotry the chili crab. thebombaycanteen.com; entrées Rs600–Rs900. TOKYO| DOMINIQUE ANSEL BAKERY The Chef Ansel is the Manhattanpastry wizard who invented thecronut. New Digs Three floors inhip Omotesando, including a73-seat café with a glass-walledkitchen.The Dish He’s going witha soft-serve ice cream bar andJapanese tea pastries. dominiqueanseljapan.com. NEW YORK CITY |GUENTER SEEGER NEW YORK The Chef Seeger,known as theforefather of farm-totable cooking in Atlanta. New Digs Just 36 seats and achef’s table in theMeatpacking District. The Dish Expectflavorful plates likepoached pears withParmesan on a tastingmenu that changesdaily. guenterseegerny.com; tasting menusfrom…

Everyone knows a great way tocombat the summer heat is with coldbeers and frosty umbrella drinks. Yet sadly this tactic may also combatyour goal of looking good in yourswimsuit. If you need a mid-yearmakeover, it could be time to putdown the cocktail and pick up asmoothie—for a few days anyway. Founder of The Palms Retreat Samui, which opened last month,Susan Field says her first detoxexperience was a revelation. “Afterjust one week of living healthy,”Field says, “I had shed fourkilograms and I felt great.” Thisexperience inspired her to open theintimate six-room boutique on theThai island’s secluded northeastcorner where guests are treated todaily consultations with wellnessand yoga guru Rocio Gaborit and herteam of health experts. The estate isa 10-minute walk from the beach, butwhat it lacks in seafront it makes upin sublime…

After years of pressure from disgruntledguests over Wi-Fi charges, hotels are comingaround. In the past year, nearly every majorbrand that was still charging for Internetaccess has done away with basic fees—eitherfor all guests (good job, Hyatt) or forloyalty-program members (Hilton,InterContinental, Marriott, Starwood). That’s good news, but it comes with a catch: a growing number of properties have adopted a tiered model, offering free basic service but adding an often hefty charge—as much as US$30 a day—for premium speeds. What’s more, basic Wi-Fi at many hotels measures less than three megabits per second (Mbps), which is just enough for e-mailing and Web browsing—leaving some guests no choice but to pay for the faster speed. With no industry standard for minimum speeds, a premium connection may give you anywhere from 4 Mbps…

BalesinIsland Club They say no man is an island, but I’d hazard a guess that every one wants one. In a country like the Philippines, where you have 7,107 to choose from, it isn’t that difficult to find one that is actually for sale. But while retail prices can be in fact quite reasonable, the extra financial as well as logistical tolls add up. Is there fresh water? What about electricity? Sort those issues out, but then every rainy season you’re worried a giant typhoon will sweep in and blow all your effort and affection to smithereens. Enter Balesin, a unique, private island resort that is incredibly accessible. The 25-minute flight on a private plane leaving from a private hangar smack in the center of Manila means it’s quicker to…

cuba! Just 45 minutes out of Miami, I am on a chartered jet circling over an island, a nation and an idea. American tourists, some old enough to have been adults during the Cuban missile crisis, are leaning into their windows, adjusting their thick glasses to take in a landscape of tropical greenery dotted with Soviet-style apartment complexes and fiery Socialist slogans. Our Cuban-American counterparts come loaded with loot for their relatives; one middleaged man is wearing a Hello Kitty backpack on his shoulder, the price tag still attached. Soon we are taxiing to the terminal past Russian-made Cubana airliners, barely up to the challenge of taking to the skies. The country that has played such a ridiculously outsize role in the American imagination is right here before us, lush…

Ten craft beers on tap, two pour sizes and a concrete-shell interior: Bungalow (15 Kashiwaya-cho; 81-75/256-8205; fb.com/bungalowkyoto; ¥1,200) is the place for a taste of Kyoto in a bottle. Try Morning Coffee Stout, a great kick of a beer, if it’s on the menu when you’re there. An alternative, just behind Daimaru, is Wachi (571 Obiya-cho, Takakura-dorinorth of Shijo; 81-75/212-6342; wachi.info; ¥2,000). Look for its small sign, then climb four floors to this space whose size belies its large stock of global microbrews. If your local palate veers more toward rice wine, head to Ozu Kyoto (25 Konoe-cho; 81-75/411-4102; ozushop.jp/en; sake, tea and wakashi sets ¥1,400). Ozu offers a solid grounding on sake through seminars and tastings—and there’s no test at the end.…

ARASHIYAMA There’s nothing like an early morning stroll through Arashiyama’s bamboo forest. Close your eyes to the music of chirping birds and bamboo twisting and scraping in the wind high above you. At one end you’ll find the garden-filled Tenryu-ji,built in the 14th century and now headquarters of the Rinzai school of Buddhism. TERAMACHI-DORI The street and neighborhood exhude a local feel, lined as they are with shops like Unsodo (81-75/231-3613), which specializes in woodblock prints; small tea shop, Ryuoen (81-75/231-3693); and the Kyoto Antiques Center (81-75/222-0793). A mix of old with trendy, it’s perfect for a stroll southeast of the Imperial Palace to small bakeries and organic grocers aswell as older shrines and temples. RYOAN-JI TEMPLE For some man-made tranquility, visit this temple’s rock garden, which is not much…

EVERETTKENNEDY BROWN Artistic Advisor, International Center for Japanese Culture For something different from the norm, I book a table at Il Ghiottone (388-1 Yasakakami-cho, Shimogawara-dori south of Tonomae; 81-75/532-2550; ilghiottone.com; dinner sets ¥10,000), where chef Yasuhiro Sasashima infuses elements of Kyoto’s culinary tradition with Italian cuisine. For antique kimono and old accessories, an eccentric place to shop is Modoribashi (237 Yakunin-cho, Nakadachiuri-dori east of Kuromon; 81-90/5977-6061), located in an area where Kyoto’s famed history of magic and ghosts is still alive. YUJI TANAKA General Manager, Ritz-Carlton Kyoto Gion Rohan (232 Nijuikken-cho,Yamatooji-dori north of Shijo; 81-75/533-7665; facebook.com/gionrohan) is acasual Japanese restaurant that seats 10. Don’t miss the beef-cutlet sandwich at Hafuu (471-1 Sasaya-cho, Fuyacho-dorinorth of Ebisugawa; 81-75/257-1581;hafuu.com; dinner sets from ¥5,000). Agreat kappo-style stop is Kawakami (570-122 Gionmachi Minamigawa; 81-75/561-2420; gion-kawakami.co.jp/en; kaiseki…

Auckland Art Deco boutique Hotel DeBrett is a cornerstone of its indie fashion ’hood, infusing a heritage dating to its 1841 build with modern notes, like these natural-dyed Kiwi-wool carpet stairs. Paihia, Bay of Islands With a storied history that includes the country’s first church, printing press and cricket match, Paihia is the launch point for adventures such as swimming with wild dolphins. Hokianga Harbour From the Arai Te Uru Recreation Reserve, the huge sand dunes that form the southern head of Hokianga are seen melting into waters that shimmer in the autumnal light. Oneroa, Waiheke Island In locavore-obsessed New Zealand, it’s no surprise that The Oyster Inn’s bivalves include Te Matuku, native to Waiheke. Hop a 40-minute ferry from Auckland to suck in its quaint charms.…