Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2019 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

Where Have They Been? Over the past 12 months, the favorite destination for jetsetters from Hong Kong, Singapore, Japan and South Korea was Japan by a wide margin. Only Indians broke this mold, favoring the U.S., Australia and Singapore. Where Are They Going? Japan figures across the board in upcoming travel plans, but Australia (for Indians and Singaporeans) and the U.S. (for Chinese and Indians) rate highly as well, with many from the Subcontinent looking to venture to the U.K. What Are They Doing? Shopping is the most popular activity for travelers from Singapore, Hong Kong and South Korea. Mainland Chinese love amusement parks, while Indians prefer to head to the beach.…

“WE HAVE ARRIVED, SIR.” My driver bids me farewell and drops me in front of a gate festooned with fluttering Tibetan prayer flags. To my left, the hill tumbles down and turns into an endless, dark-green labyrinth of prized Darjeeling tea plantations. On the opposite side of the valley, silhouettes of Himalayan mountains loom on the horizon. “Welcome to Chamong Chiabari,” shout two young and sinewy Bengali bellboys as they come forward to help me with my luggage. Composed of four old-world bungalows, Chamong Chiabari is a new heritage retreat in the remote village of Pokhriabong—one hour from the Darjeeling hill station—offering travelers a full immersion into the legacy of the Chamong Tea Estate, a plantation that dates back to 1871. The hotel’s nine rooms were once the original cottages…

LET US NOW PRAISE BUTTER. Butter churned with the cream of cows ethically raised in the rolling fields of Khao Yai, in Thailand, and delicate fleur de sel hand-raked from the salt marshes of Brittany, France. Sweetcreamy, whisper-of-salty butter, the most ethereal in Bangkok, a simple spread made transcendent—the same way your perspective on the oft-banal urban jungle is elevated to new heights by the view from the 61st-floor dining room. When a man who has earned three Michelin stars is paddling out your butter tableside, you know its heffing good butter. This spring, lebua at State Tower—home of cloud-perched SkyBar and Michelin two-starred Mezzaluna—launched a stunning new secret wing that houses Pink Bar, which serves the city’s largest selection of champagnes by the glass and is a flirty antechamber…

CAVA, SPAIN’S SIGNATURE sparkling wine, originated roughly 150 years ago in the quietly prosperous Catalan town of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. If you visit today, you can see its impact everywhere. There’s the sleek CIC Fassina Cava Interpretation Center, housed in a 19th-century distillery that once transformed the effervescent wine into brandy. Giant barrels and other winein-spired objects sit in roundabouts and town squares; bottle-shaped bollards on the sidewalks protect pedestrians. On the outskirts of Sant Sadurní, large bodegas run by mainstream producers, including Freixenet and Recaredo, loom over the landscape. At harvest time, slow-moving tractors churn along the narrow roads, the shoulders of which bear stains from dripping juice. Sant Sadurní lies at the heart of cava country, in Penedès, a sprawling region that runs from the sea to the…

THESE DAYS, IT'S hard to distinguish between a bar and a chem lab. Move over infusing: techniques such as fat washing, milk washing and smoking are increasingly common to imbue drinks with more layered profiles. Rotary evaporators have practically become standard equipment—even though they cost anywhere between S$8,000 and S$20,000. Bartender-owner Kamil Foltan of IB HQ, for one, only broke even on the price of his rotavap, including staff, utility and ingredient costs, after about 1,500 drinks. But, we assure you, his next-level innovations are worth it. With more mad scientists investing in toys like bee smokers and sonic wave machines, now is the best time to have your drink and eat it, too. JAM AT SIRI HOUSE Sour-cream potato chips, sesame oil and burnt butter are just some of…

TASTING NOTES can seem abstract. Words such as “soft” or “earthy,” “stone fruit” or “ripe berry” have been the most common way that flavors, aromas and textures in wine have been communicated for decades. But as the appeal of wine spreads far and wide, the idiomatic nature of such descriptions has become apparent; words are in danger of being lost in translation. Enter Sarah Heller, the youngest Master of Wine in Asia-Pacific. Heller shares striking works of art as an extension of her written tasting notes on her social media channels (principally Instagram: @sarahhellermw). She calls them “Visual Tasting Notes,” and they provide a pictorial mind map of her interpretations of wine. “There are a few consistent elements in each note,” she says. “The background color is supposed to evoke…

What is it? Imagine an herbal G&T that you can sip on all day without fear of a hangover, health risks if you’re pregnant—or that dangerous sense of confidence that'll let you text an ex. You’re the target for Seedlip (seedlip.com), a line of gin-like, booze-free spirits made by blending individually distilled botanicals. It is part of a larger trend towards mixed drinks with less or zero alcohol-by-volume. “Low ABV cocktails allow bars to be even more inclusive for potential guests. Bars can be intimidating to people who choose not to drink alcohol,” says Charlie Ainsbury, of craft-spirits distributor and bar consultancy Proof & Co. In fact, studies show that millennials are actually drinking less than their predecessors—but a glass filled with soda water or a sugar-bomb of a mocktail just…

STANDING IN 3 February Park, a leafy sculpture garden that commemorates an important battle of the Tet Offensive, I’m looking out to a riverside boulevard lined with stately French-colonial buildings. The Perfume River sweeps quietly under a fog-obscured bridge. Couples stroll and little kids scamper around their parents’ legs. It’s a lovely afternoon in the city of Hue, but my thoughts are somewhere beyond this picturesque spot. Specifically, I am looking at the food hawkers at the far side of the plaza, their carts, stalls, shoulder poles overflowing with all sorts of temptations. I walk over to them and order a bunch of banh nam—strips of steamed rice flour topped with a layer of seasoned, finely ground shrimp and pork. The vendor unwraps them from their banana-leaf packaging, and I…

GETTING THERE From Southeast Asia, nonstop flights to Rome originate in Bangkok via Thai Airways, Hong Kong via Cathay Pacific, and Singapore via Singapore Airlines. WHERE TO STAY Several of Rome’s grande dame hotels have been recently reimagined, including the iconic Hotel de Russie (roccofortehotels.com; doubles from €793), near the Piazza del Popolo, and the Hotel Eden (dorchestercollection.com; doubles from €682), which offers kids’ activities like treasure hunts and a day at gladiator school. The Hotel de la Ville (roccofortehotels.com; doubles from €468) has recently debuted near the Spanish Steps, while the new Grand House (thegrandhouse.com; doubles from €506) is a family-friendly alternative that's part apartment rental, part hotel suite. WHERE TO EAT You don’t have to stay at the Hotel de Russie to eat at Le Jardin de Russie (mains €35–€45), where chef Fulvio…

Temi Tea Garden, Sikkim Opened by the former Chogyal (king) of Sikkim in 1969, Sikkim’s only tea estate produces some of the world’s best tea using a completely organic process. You can stay at the factory or in several local homestays, such as pretty Aansham Kutir (aanshamkutir.com; doubles from Rp1,500), and enjoy paragliding, mountain biking, and night cultural shows with bonfires. Below Tendong Hill, Temi; doubles from Rp4,000, including meals. Gatoonga Tea Estate, Assam Northeast India has been the cradle of the country’s tea production even before Darjeeling. Gatoonga, near Jorhat town, is one of the main estates in Assam. You can stay at Banyan Grove, a heritage cottage with seven classic rooms boasting fireplaces, wooden four-poster beds and checked tiles, all set next to a pleasant swimming pool. 91-943/551-4177;…

WHEN WE THINK OF the standard-bearer for café culture in this half of the world, credit usually goes to Australia. But this ignores their southern sister’s love of a good brew: surveys have shown that New Zealand has more roasters per capita than any other country, and is the 13th largest coffee consumer in the world, ahead of the U.S. and Australia. And while it’s said that Wellington has more cafés per capita than New York City, it’s New Zealand’s fourth-largest town, Hamilton, that caffeine addicts should make a beeline for. Though far from being a major tourist hub, Hamilton does have a handful of attractions—notably the celebrated Hamilton Gardens, the modest yet modern Waikato Museum, and the annual iconic Balloons Over Waikato hot-air balloon festival. The region even is…

Getting There Singapore Airlines flies nonstop to Barcelona–El Prat Airport from Changi Airport. From there, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia is an easy 45-minute drive. Where to Stay The light-filled Hotel Mastinell (hotelmastinell.com; doubles from €201), in Vilafranca del Penedès, nods to Modernista architect Antoni Gaudí. Mas Palou (maspalou.com; doubles from €101), in El Pla del Penedès, and Hotel Castel de Gimenelles (gimenelles.com; doubles from €97), in Sant Jaume dels Domenys, typify charming Catalan masias. Food and Drink Near Vilafranca, you can visit the vineyard Can Ràfols dels Caus (canrafolsdelscaus.com). Close to Torrelavit, there’s Pardas (cellerpardas.com), and just outside Sant Sadurní, you’ll find Cavas Codorníu (codorniu.com). The latter is also home to heritage chocolatier Simón Coll (simoncoll.com). In Sant Pau d’Ordal, enjoy a regional feast at Cal Xim (34-938/993- 092; mains €10–€24),…

Bar: BACKSTAGE Drink: FORGETFUL PAINTER • Vodka infused with chamomile tea, 45ml• Passionfruit juice, 20ml• Pineapple juice, 20ml• Lime juice, 20ml• Maple-and-caramel syrup, 10ml• Absinthe, 2 dashes• Egg whites, 15ml fb.com/backstagecocktailbarbkk Bar: THE BAMBOO BAR Drink: HAWKER • Coconut fat–washed tequila, 45ml• Lemongrass syrup, 20ml• Lime juice, 15ml• Coriander bitters, 4 dashes• Kaffir lime leaves, 2 Shaken and topped with ginger beer. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok Bar: RABBIT HOLE Drink: CRY ME TO THE MOON • White-truffle fat–washed gin, 45ml•Apple juice, 45ml•Homemade pandan syrup, 15ml•Citric solution, 10ml rabbitholebkk.com Bar: SMALLS Drink: LUCID DREAMS • La Maison Fontaine Blanche, 20ml• Martini Bianco, 20ml• Punt E Mes, 20ml• Homemade grenadine, 10ml• Lemon juice, 15ml• Kaffir lime leaf Topped with tonic. fb.com/smallsbkk Bar: TEENS OF THAILAND Drink: GUAVA-SALTY PLUM GT Macerate guava with salty plum, then…

What is it? Believed to be one of the world’s oldest beverages dating back thousands of years, mead is made from a fermented blend of honey, water, fruits and other spices that takes about a year to mature. Where can you get it? On the third floor of a small, nondescript industrial space on the outskirts of Singapore, one of the country’s most unique alcohols is fermenting. Rachelle The Rabbit Meadery (rachelletherabbit.com) is the Lion City’s first ever meadery. Named after the daughter of owner Simon Zhao, this all-natural, no-additive meadery is making this golden elixir with honey from South Africa and Malaysia combined with Asian flavors and ingredients. A selection of the brand’s five flavors can be found at nearly 40 bars, restaurants and retailers around Singapore starting at S$40…

SUPERSAVER Pavilion Hotel, Kuala Lumpur Save when booking ahead: reserve at least 30 days in advance to receive 15 percent off the best available rate. Managed by neighbor Banyan Tree, the Pavilion Hotel has access to the Banyan Tree Spa. The hotel also features elegant skyline-view rooms, an infinity pool, and Malay and Japanese restaurants. The Deal Advanced Purchase Offer: a night in a City Oasis King, from RM510, through December 31, 2020. banyantree.com. SPECIAL OCCASION THAILAND Cape Fahn Hotel Turn up the dial on your destination wedding, family reunion or corporate event with your very own private islands in Koh Samui. Cape Fahn’s pair of luxury isles in the Gulf of Thailand consist of 22 pool villas, including the private two-bedroom Fahn Noi villa—and the entire property can be…

TOUR GUIDE Osaka Food Crawl with Kuniyoshi Okamoto Kuni will plot a dining and drinking tour based on your likes, and if you’re lucky, even bring your to his favorite bar. WhatsApp or Viber: 81-80/41421754; Instagram: @toyonaka_bunny; tours from ¥15,000 per person for three locations in three hours for two people, all food included. EAT+DRINK Matsusaka Gyu – Yakiniku M Dark interiors set the stage for excellent beef. matsusakaprojects.com; Matsusaka tasting platter from ¥3,000 per person, Matsusaka and Wagyu tasting platters for two from ¥13,800. Tempura Tarojiro Ultra-fresh sashimi and über-crisp tempura are the two lures here. tarojirou.com; food and drinks for two ¥3,000. Izakaya Sumiyakiyo A cozy, authentic Japanese-style pub with great karaage and takoyaki. sumiyakiyo.com; food and beer for two ¥1,800. Gyoza-oh! The paper-thin wrappers crisp nicely on the…

WHERE TO STAY Since Hue’s local cuisine is often served amid humble environs, it’s a rare treat to experience it with a touch of luxury. In an ornate mansion on the banks of the Perfume River, Azerai La Residence, Hue has 122 rooms in classic French-colonial style, around a saltwater pool that’s welcome after a day touring the city. The recent renovation by Adrian Zecha’s boutique-hotel brand expanded the spa and reenergized Le Gouverneur Bar and Le Parfum Restaurant, which serves Western and Asian favorites alongside Hue specialties like royal cuisine, bun bo Hue and several kinds of banh Hue. azerai.com; doubles from VND4,000,000. South of the city, the all-pool villa Banyan Tree Lang Co lies on a stretch of white sand facing the South China Sea. This top-end resort,…

1 Shinsuke Matsukawa PHOTOGRAPHER “Getting Lost in Japan’s Kitchen” Page 74 “When I go to Osaka I have to prepare myself in advance to get hungry because there is delicious food all over the city, and it is reasonably priced. The best time of year to visit is spring: you can enjoy all the mouthwatering offerings while viewing the cherry blossoms. At any time of year, my favorite restaurant is Chitose at Sennichimae shopping street. Order nikusui (beef soup with tofu) with steamed rice on the side. While shooting this story, I had a great time with Takuto, the Bar Linda owner and a musician who also performs there.” Instagram:@shin_suke. 2 Mei Anne Foo WRITER “Brew North” Page 38 “I moved to Hamilton from Singapore in February, though I was…

PORTLAND, MAINE, IS NOW such a food destination that it has created a spillover effect. About 25 minutes south lies Biddeford, a small city overlooking the Saco River. Rents are cheap, and the town is becoming home to some of the same craft-based enterprises that have transformed Portland. Biddeford’s downtown is a modest crossroads where pickups gun their engines at oblivious out-of-staters. On a recent visit, my family and I followed the slope of Main Street down to the river, on the banks of which lie old textile, lumber and grain mills. Splayed around a sky-piercing smokestack, these structures are medieval-fortress huge. The biggest of the Goliaths has been rechristened the Pepperell Mill Campus (pepperellmillcampus.com). It’s a magnificent hive, filled with shops, restaurants, galleries and apartments. If the idea behind…

STAFF ONLY CLUB Like most speakeasies worth their salt, the first rule of Staff Only Club was, “do not tell anyone.” But good news travels fast, and soon after opening late last year, this members-only club became Taipei’s worst-kept secret. Set against a backdrop of rickety dwellings in an unlikely corner of the Zhongsheng suburb, its team has transformed a former soy-sauce factory into a Gatsby-esque hideout, replete with plush velvet couches and copper chandeliers. The cocktail menu (presented in vintage pop-up books) focuses on elevated takes on tried-and-tested classics, and locally inspired mixtures. Signature drink Navy Club, for example, combines kaffir leaf–infused gin, house-made oleo-saccharum, peppery capsicum juice, and saline solution into a punchy drink, perfectly capturing the local palate for salty-and-sour. The list extends during the monthly “Part…

THE WORLD OVER, talented young women are making their mark in the hitherto male-dominated bar industry. Hong Kong is the stomping ground of Victoria Chow, the mastermind behind The Woods and Kwoon, Asia’s first artisanal pre-batched cocktail series. In Singapore, Sasha Wijidessa manages Operation Dagger, where the hooch bottles have no labels, and Bannie Kang is head craftsman at Anti:Dote, using spices and herbs from her native Korea. In Bangkok, multi-award-winning maestro Pailin “Milk” Sajjanit heads up hard-to-find, plush den 008. Here are some other outstanding ladies manning the bars across the region. PRISCILLA LEONG, head bartender, Long Bar at Raffles SINGAPORE Way back when Long Bar was the place for gentlemen and plantation owners to gather, etiquette dictated that ladies couldn’t consume alcohol in public. Long Bar’s Ngiam Tong…

I’M MUCKING AROUND in the pig pens with a Michelin-starred chef. Black pigs covered in soft hair, with taut hinds like a bull terrier and floppy ears like a pug, are tumbling all over each other. They’re extremely cute—especially when they’re rubbing snouts with their pink cousins, who are waddling their more traditionally rounded backsides on the other side of a fence. “I fell in love with the pigs very quickly,” says American expat and IT consultant–turned–hog wrangler Randall Ellis, while showing me and chef Antony Scholtmeyer around the well-kept, super sustainable Surin Farm, which he owns with his wife in Santapong, Thailand, 30 kilometers south of Chiang Mai. “They’re really smart, they love people if you treat them well, and they grow a lot of meat real fast.” The…

THE IDEA FIRST CAME WHEN, pregnant with my elder child, I visited Israel with my husband, Claude. We had a stopover in Milan on the way back, and while we were in the airport, we watched an American toddler roll on the floor like an animal, her sweatpanted mother and father barely registering her existence. Next to them, a French child of the same age sat dainty in a dress, contemplating a picture book, while her parents read. I guess stereotypes have to become stereotypes somehow. “Look at the Americans,” I whisper-spat at Claude. “They are an embarrassment. We are an embarrassment.” This wouldn’t do, I told him. We needed a plan. That was 2007, and since then a lot has changed. We had our first son, and then a…