AS MY HUSBAND, Emilio, and I lay on the deck of our Airbnb, I realized I’d run out of time to shower before the symphony. Eyeing the ladder that descended into the Aegean, I told Emilio that I would just jump into the ocean instead.
“Any time you can say that, it’s a good day,” he replied.
Every summer, after visiting my relatives in northern Greece, my husband and our two young children—Amalia, 6, and Nico, 3—set out to discover someplace in the country new to us. We’d been on the Cycladic island of Syros for only half an hour, but we could already tell we’d made a good choice. On other islands, such as Syros’s neighbor, Mykonos, we’d debated whether to stay in town or on the beach. Here,…
