THOSE IN THE KNOW have always talked up Lao food for its marriage of balanced flavors—more savory than sweet, intense use of fragrant herbs, and unusual tastes such as moreish buffalo-skin paste and sundried river algae. Internationally, however, it simmers under the radar. Search for Lao cuisine on Amazon, say, and Hawker Fare, the book by Michelin two-starred Lao-American chef James Syhabout appears, but little else. Lower down the ranks, a title with a monotone jacket is listed. Unlike contemporary cookbooks with graphic covers so alluring they’re good enough to eat, it’s this, the unassuming Traditional Recipes of Laos by Phia Sing, that’s behind the opening of Luang Prabang’s new Paste Laos, the country’s first restaurant with Michelin-starred chefs in the kitchen. Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun and her Australian chef husband…
