Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2019 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

THIS MONTH ON TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM DISCOVER THESE UNSPOILED ISLANDS IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC Far, far off the beaten path, the Marquesas are for those who crave adventure, seclusion and truly stunning scenery. WHY JAKARTANS ARE FLOCKING TO BANDUNG With a remarkable blend of history, and Art Deco architecture, this Indonesian highlands enclave is well-worth exploring. INTO THE HEART OF ULURU This haunting, crimson Australian landscape, held sacred by the Anangu people, holds an air of mysticism, and offers new reasons to visit. DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS Available on iOS, Android, Win 8 and Zinio Desktop Reader. FOLLOW US TWITTER.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA FACEBOOK.COM/TRAVELLEISUREASIA PINTEREST.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA INSTAGRAM.COM/TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA KEEP UP WITH US Sign up for our newsletter for monthly highlights and offers from T+L Southeast Asia. TANDL.ASIA/NEWSLETTER CONTACT US TLEDITOR@MEDIATRANSASIA.COM + LOOKOUT The best new openings…

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It opened last year as an arts-and-culture center in Hong Kong’s old Victoria Police Station, but, let’s be honest, the real reason we’ll be heading to heritage-space Tai Kwun (taikwun.hk) is for the fare. The spot in Central has now opened 13 of its F&B outlets, and they are as pretty as they are tasty. A trio of upscale outfits by Aqua Restaurant Group are the latest: try regional cuisine at The Chinese Library or a modern British menu at Statement, while lounge bar The Dispensary bridges the two literally and with its East-meets-West line-up. They’re in good company with Behind Bars (a drinkery in the old jail), Aaharn and Old Bailey, with more to come.…

FOR ISHMAEL, the narrator of Herman Melville’s Moby-Dick, reveries of whaling ships and the seafaring life were enough to swing “the great flood-gates of the wonder-world” wide open. For me, dreaming about cable cars does the trick. I don’t mean the earthbound variety, like the ones that scale San Francisco’s steep streets, but the airborne ones, also known as gondolas or aerial tramways. The cable car is so unassuming in its work of sky-climbing that it can be easily dismissed as just a means of transport. But under the right circumstances, traveling on one can feel like being in a luxurious observatory that’s dangling from a high wire. I caught the itch while riding circuits through the Dolomites in Südtirol/Alto Adige, an autonomous region of Italy that should be enshrined…

GETTING THERE From Southeast Asia, you can fly non-stop to Kolkata from Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. All foreign nationals require a visa to visit India; check indianvisaonline.gov.in for details and e-visa application. KOLKATA We stayed at the Oberoi Grand (oberoihotels.com; doubles from US$320), a classic property with a pretty pool. The Glenburn Penthouse (glenburnpenthouse.com; doubles from US$355) is a new, beautifully decorated boutique hotel. For Bengali food, try a multicourse thali meal at Kewpie’s (2 Elgin Lane; mains US$6–$14). Or sample Indian-Chinese cuisine at Golden Joy (goldenjoy.in; mains US$5–$11). Visit the Harrington Street Arts Centre (hstreetartscentre.com) and the Arts Acre Foundation (artsacre.org) for a taste of culture. DARJEELING The quickest route to the Glenburn Tea Estate (glenburnteaestate.com; doubles from US$650, all-inclusive) is an hour-long flight to Bagdogra Airport followed by a four-hour drive,…

GETTING THERE & AROUND Fly into Keflavík Airport outside Reykjavík and spend a day taking in the sights of the capital. From there, it’s a 45-minute flight to Akureyri, on the northern coast. In winter, weather can be extremely unpredictable, so if you decide to rent a car, make sure it’s a four-wheel-drive with snow tires. An even safer option is to use a local company like Geo Travel Iceland (geotravel.is), which can get you around the island in everything from a Hummer to a dogsled. AKUREYRI Make Iceland’s second-largest city your jumping-off point. After snapping a few pictures of the oddly geometric Akureyrarkirkja church (akureyrarkirkja.is) in the quaint downtown area, I picked up a collection of Norse mythology at the Eymundsson bookstore (penninn.is), some backup winter wear at the 66°North…

THANKS TO THE TINY star-shaped leaves that radiate from the momiji, the maple indigenous to eastern Asia, autumn in Japan is exhilarating. Walking through Kiyosumi Gardens (3-3 Kiyosumi, Kōtōku) in Tokyo on a recent visit, I glanced up at a constellation of red, orange, yellow and green leaves that interlocked to form a scrim. As the sun shone through, my world was bathed in kaleidoscopic color. That evening, I went to Rikugi-en (16-3-6 Honkomagome, Bunkyō-ku)—like Kiyosumi, a classical Edo-period strolling garden. Stage lights illuminated the momiji, so that their bright bodies flexed against the night like lanterns. Fog machines generated mist, obscuring the ground. Both Rikugi-en and Kiyosumi are part of the Autumn Leaves Stamp Rally, an annual event during which ecstatic pilgrims visit all nine of Tokyo’s main gardens, receiving a…

1 Leigh Griffiths PHOTOGRAPHER “Enter the Dragon” “Eight years ago on a cliché backpacking trip in Southeast Asia with my mates, Halong Bay was on the list. As cheap bachelors, we took the party boat. We met lots of people, drank lots of Vietnamese whiskey and slept through the morning. On the luxury President Cruises ship, a big contrast was the freedom to choose what to do with my time—kayaking or drinking on a sunbed, for example. The staff were clearly having a good time, which rubbed off on the passengers and helped create a joyful experience… As did watching the giant jellyfish glide by while we sat fishing with bamboo rods.” Instagram: @leighgriffithslens. 2 Rachna Sachasinh WRITER “Reasons to Travel in 2019” and “Paint the Town” “India is a…

WHERE’S YOUR FAVORITE NEW HOTSPOT? As an editor of a travel magazine, I’m asked this more often than the Asian standard, “have you eaten yet?” This year and last, the query has become a doubly tough start to any conversation. I never want to suggest that a particular Hong Kong restaurant I dine in this week is better than the Balinese breakfast place I stopped at last, yet the bigger problem is that there are just so many new hotels and resorts and restaurants and bars opening up around our region, the options really are mind-boggling. If we in Asia were spoiled for choice before, we’re now headed into unchartered territory when it comes to travel. There’s a new, must-see address to check out almost every week. So to kick…

Most travelers who book a trip to Kenya head out straight for a safari in the Masai Mara, but it’s worth spending time in Nairobi to explore the capital’s growing creative scene. Check in to the intimate hotel OneFortyEight Giraffe Sanctuary (one-forty-eight.com; doubles from $495 per person), set in a former artist’s home and studio, where original art hangs on the walls and owner Elizabeth Fusco runs an on-site boutique. A few kilometers away, the bead workshop Kazuri (kazuri.com) employs more than 340 women who craft colorful beads, jewelry and ceramics by hand. Watch artists at work at the GoDown Arts Centre (thegodownartscentre.com), and visit Designing Africa Collective (fb.com/designingafricacollective) for apparel by makers from across the continent.…

Alsace, in the foothills of the Vosges Mountains, produces some of the finest wines on the globe. The stunning Villa Rene Lalique (villarenelalique.com; doubles from $340), whose restaurant has two Michelin stars (mains $47–$143, tasting menus from $170), is the ideal place to start a sojourn. Visit top wineries like Domaine Weinbach (domaineweinbach.com) and Maison Trimbach (trimbach.fr) for exceptional Gewürztraminers and Rieslings. At Au Trotthus (trotthus.com; mains $27–$40, tasting menus from $74), in Riquewihr, chef Philippe Aubron melds ingredients from France and Japan—think chanterelle soup with enoki and truffles. Luxury travelers can also see Burgundy and its vineyards by boat: the Belmond Lilas, offers private cruises (belmond.com; prices available upon request).…

Ironically nicknamed Brisvegas for its sleepy mien, Brisbane has long been regarded as an outsize country town, a cultural vacuum overshadowed by Sydney and Melbourne. But that’s changing. The shift began last year with the launch of W Brisbane (whotels.com; doubles from $252), the first five-star to open here in 20 years. Next, the $140 million Howard Smith Wharves development will bring a hotel and restaurants to an old dockyard. The $2.6 billion Queen’s Wharf project, set for 2022, will add Ritz-Carlton and Rosewood hotels, 50 restaurants and bars, and a riverfront beach. But even before Queen’s Wharf is complete, this growing city has plenty to offer. Fine arts institutions like the Queensland Art Gallery/Gallery of Modern Art, or QAGOMA (qagoma.qld.gov.au), where the Asia Pacific Triennial is on view through…

SUPERSAVER Ovolo Hotels, Australia & Hong Kong Whether you’re off to Victoria Harbour or Darling Harbour, Ovolo Hotels have a deal for T+L readers. Book at least three nights in an Ovolo Hotel to save 20 percent with free breakfast, minibar and Wi-Fi. Visit the latest, Ovolo The Valley, in Brisbane, as well as others in Australia, and Hong Kong. The Deal Ovolo x T+L: a night in a medium room at Ovolo The Valley, from A$199, through September 30. Use promo code: OVOXTL. ovolohotels.com. CITY SINGAPORE Six Senses Maxwell Following last year’s launch of Six Senses Duxton, sister hotel Six Senses Maxwell opened last month just a few streets away in the charming Tanjong Pagar district. More capacious than the neighboring Duxton property, Maxwell features 138 rooms, five dining…

The Land of the Rising Sun is the world’s fastest-growing travel destination, and it’s not hard to see why. It has the electric energy of Tokyo and the enduring beauty of Kyoto. The country’s ancient customs continue to fascinate, and its chefs approach their trade with a precision and creative spirit that yields unforgettable culinary experiences. Its landscape, from magisterial mountain ranges to an enchanting inland sea, rivals any in the world. Its museums are meccas for art lovers, and its architects are imagining the future of design in daring ways. Best of all, from historic urban shrines to forest trails to understated hotels, Japan offers a sense of serenity that is harder than ever to find today. For more reasons to plan your next trip there, turn the page.…

Japan’s northernmost island is a skier’s paradise, but its natural beauty is worth exploring throughout the year. Scott Gilman (scott@japanquestjourneys.com) of JapanQuest Journeys, a member of the T+L A-List of top travel advisors, created the following tour, which he can book for you. japanquestjourneys.com; from US$1,800 per person per day. GETTING THERE From Tokyo, take a 90-minute flight to Hokkaido’s Kushiro Airport. Book your return flight from the rural Nakashibetsu Airport. DAY 1 Check in to Hazel Grouse Manor (hazelgrouse.com; doubles from ¥35,460), a 90-minute drive from Kushiro Airport. The hotel, a Georgian home with a French restaurant, is near Kushiro Shitsugen National Park, Japan’s largest wetland. The region is home to some 1,000 Japanese cranes, once thought to be extinct. Get a closer view of the graceful birds at research…

1. Yuyado Sakamoto, Ishikawa Prefecture “This remote ryokan on the Noto Peninsula could be the most wabi-sabi inn in Japan,” says Nancy Singleton Hachisu, author of Japan: The Cookbook. “Shinichiro Sakamoto and his wife, Mihoko, make all the food in-house, including the pickles, preserves and smoked fish. Soba is hand-rolled each day and treated with the respect it deserves.” Meals are served only to ryokan guests. 15-47 Uedomachi-jisha, Suzushi; 81-766-82-0584; doubles from ¥18,070. 2. The Terrace, Naoshima Island After a day of art at Benesse House, says Anne Soh Woods, founder of Kikori Whiskey, “continue the sensory experience at the museum’s exceptional restaurant. Its presentation of French cuisine with a Japanese bent is as awe-inspiring as the setting.” benesse-artsite.jp; tasting menu ¥12,990. 3. Wappado, Ohara, Kyoto Prefecture “Wappado is a…

Selfie Drones The world’s first autonomous flying drone was unveiled last year by Skydio. The auto-piloted drone recognizes your face, body and clothing, so it can follow you around as you film. This year, Skydio is working on updating their technology so the drones can also make un-piloted deliveries. Selfie Check-in Get to your room faster when staying at Grand Park City Hall in Singapore, the flagship is the first of the Park Hotel Group’s properties to install facial recognition technology for immediate check-in when you arrive. Skip the queue, download the hotel’s app, take a quick selfie, and a digital room key will be sent straight to your phone. No Selfie Sticks Allowed Those ubiquitous arm extenders are now banned at many of the world’s most frequented sites. Ditch…

SCATTERED LIKE UNCUT JEWELS across the Andaman Sea off Burma’s southern coast, the 800 islands, atolls and coral reefs of the Mergui Archipelago form one of the least-visited marine destinations on earth. The thickly forested islands, most blissfully uninhabited, are rimmed by crystal beaches and striking rock formations. Stilted fishing villages, shifting settlements of indigenous Moken or “sea gypsy” families, and a few Burmese naval camps occupy only a handful of plots of land. Such isolation means the archipelago harbors a great diversity of flora and fauna, still largely uncatalogued, and some of the finest diving in Asia. Until recently the Burmese government zealously guarded this living treasure, allowing only registered liveaboard boats to cruise through—no overnight stays on the islands allowed. However, since 2011 the government has granted licenses…

Set on the instep of Italy’s boot, Matera is best known for the white Sassi structures carved into its limestone hills, which earned the town a UNESCO designation. The announcement four years ago that Matera would be a 2019 European Capital of Culture signaled a new era, spurring hotel and restaurant openings and culminating in this year’s festivities. Don’t miss the museum Casa Noha (fondoambiente.it/casa-noha-eng), where a multimedia exhibit gives a glimpse of the city’s past. The tour operator Divertimento Group (divertimentogroup.com) can arrange an experience in Murgia National Park, where you’ll go on a foraging trek with a local farmer, then share a gourmet meal in a cave next to an ancient rupestrian (i.e., made out of rock) church. Bed down at the Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa…

Not long ago, goulash and strudel dominated nearly every menu in Prague. But lately, a dynamic dining landscape has taken shape, with spots like the 17-seat chef’s-table restaurant Taro (taro.cz; tasting menus from $39), where Vietnamese dishes like pho are treated with reverence. Ambiente, the group behind many of the city’s most innovative kitchens, recently launched Kuchyň (kuchyn.ambi.cz; mains $11–$15). There, diners order after taking a whiff from the pots on the stove, and what lands on the plate are riffs on Czech classics, such as beef braised in red wine. Sister spot Grils (grilskarlin.cz; mains $5–$18) specializes in spit-roasted chicken, unadorned yet perfect. And another Ambiente joint, the all-day bakery and bistro Eska (eska.ambi.cz; mains $12–$31), is a must: a slice of wood-fired sourdough, a bowl of comforting leek…

Despite being within striking distance of Times Square and Chelsea, Manhattan’s far west side remained undeveloped for decades, the subject of many competing visions of its future. Now, the vast industrial parcel is poised to become a supersize neighborhood known as Hudson Yards (newyork.com). The $25 billion undertaking, whose first shops, restaurants and attractions open this March, will by 2024 encompass 16 residential and commercial buildings—most of them built on a giant platform over an active railyard. Hudson Yards’ vision is perhaps best exemplified by Vessel, a climbable sculpture conceived by British designer Thomas Heatherwick as NYC’s answer to the Eiffel Tower. The steel showpiece, which has 154 interlinked flights of stairs offering peerless views of the Hudson River, anchors the Public Square & Gardens. The Shed (theshed.org), an eight-story…

I WAS ON ALL FOURS, hoisting myself like a Neanderthal up a steep ridge of ankle-slashing brush on Raiatea’s sacred, kilometer-high Mount Temehani. The woods were thick with Caribbean pine, candlewood trees and wet ferns. The humidity made it feel like 1,000 degrees. I’d only been hiking for 10 minutes, but I was already drenched in sweat and exhausted. My guide from Polynesian Escapes (polynesianescape.com; Mount Temehani hike US$700 for up to six people), Tahi—who had told me the night before to wear pants and a long-sleeve shirt—walked ahead of me in shorts and knee-high socks, his arms inked in elaborate Polynesian tattoos. Within moments of what I had thought would be an easy and peaceful four-hour trek along sun-kissed trails fragrant with exotic tropical fruit, and manna-rich lagoons, I knew…

1 Feuerle Collection This private museum, housed in a World War II bunker reimagined by architect John Pawson, is known for its collection of imperial Chinese artifacts and diverse set of works by contemporary artists such as Anish Kapoor and Zeng Fanzhi. Its newly converted Incense Room is just as suprising as a meditative, slate-gray space where all visitors are invited to participate in an ancient Chinese incense ceremony. thefeuerlecollection.org; the Incense Room is open by appointment only. 2 Of/Berlin This concept store stocks jewelry and housewares, with an emphasis on local brands. Pick up a speaker, made of recycled cardboard, that’s shaped like a boom box, or a cardamom-and-sandalwood-scented candle by Coudre Berlin. ofberlin.com. 3 Hotel the Yard With a garden by Swiss landscape architect Enzo Enea at its center,…

TRANSIT TOURS Taiwan Get a culture dose on one of two half-day outings offered by Taipei’s Taoyuan International Airport. The morning tour visits the intricately carved Qingshui Zushi Temple and the preserved Qing Dynasty–era Sanxia Old Street. Travelers will also get the chance to visit Yingge Ceramics Old Street, famous for its centuries-old pottery workshops. Afternoon tours will visit the wooden Dalongdong Baoan Temple or the Taipei Confucius Temple, plus stop for a snap of the city’s landmark building, the 508-meter-tall Taipei 101. eng.taiwan.net.tw/tour; layover must be between seven and 24 hours. South Korea There’s no excuse for social-media scrolling at Incheon Airport—here you can choose from nine different excursions to explore Seoul. Stretch your legs on the one-hour seaside tour that stops at either Eurwangni or Masirang Beach. Visit…

APPS AwardWallet This app partners with hundreds of programs—from dining and shopping (Starbucks, Sephora) to credit cards and hotels—to display all your rewards in one intuitive interface. The only hiccup you’ll find with this and other apps: some airlines won’t allow outside parties to access your info, which means a few extra steps if you want your points reflected. awardwallet.com; Android and iOS; free. TripIt Pro In addition to tracking your reward balances, this app provides real-time flight alerts and benefits, including discounted access to travel-enhancement programs like LoungeBuddy. tripit.com; Android and iOS; US$49 per year. BOOKING SERVICES Book Your Award These air-travel specialists can help you strategically book flights (potentially saving you hundreds of thousands of miles) and will come up with creative routes to ensure you save the…

KOLKATA WHEN WE ARRIVED IN THE CAPITAL of the Indian state of West Bengal, my family and I were excited to sample some local delicacies. So we immediately went in search of Chinese food. West Bengal is a borderland, abutting three countries on the northeastern edge of India—Bhutan, Nepal and Bangladesh—and fairly close to China. In Kolkata’s Chinatown, Chinese cookery has transmogrified into something new: Indian-Chinese cuisine, a beloved, gloopy hybrid known locally as “Chindian.” At a restaurant called Golden Joy, we filled our table with dishes you’d never find in China—chili paneer, cauliflower Manchurian, chicken lollipops. India’s diversity is often most vivid along its borders, where the country’s neighbors influence and complicate its cultures in all sorts of unpredictable (and sometimes volatile) ways. My wife, Shahnaz, and I decided…

GETTING THERE AND AROUND The easiest flight connections to Windhoek, the capital, are through Frankfurt or Johannesburg. Upscale lodgings are typically accessed via light aircraft transfers, which are efficiently operated and offer fantastic views. WINDHOEK Most visitors spend a night in Windhoek before or after a safari, and the new lodge Omaanda (zannierhotels.com; doubles and savannah excursion from US$900, all-inclusive), just outside of town, is the place to stay. Its French owner, Arnaud Zannier, was introduced to Namibia by Angelina Jolie, whose friends, Marlice and Rudie van Vuuren, own the wildlife sanctuary N/a’an ku sê (naankuse.com) outside Windhoek. Zannier bought 8,900 hectares adjacent to the van Vuurens’ land, and his new 10-bedroom lodge there is an upscale take on traditional dwellings with conical thatched roofs. The interior design is impeccable,…

I’VE JUST SLIPPED out of an exquisite jewel-box combination of moss garden, pond garden and camellia garden that is virtually deserted on this brilliant autumn afternoon. At Yoshiki-en (60-1 Noboriōjichō), admission is free for foreigners with passports, and right next door is Isui-en (isuien.or.jp), an even more ravishing and spacious garden complete with thatched-roof teahouses and a pond. Having basked in the dazzling scarlets and oranges and yellows of turning leaves, I head off across a park, past groves of wild plum trees and a 16th-century storehouse for Buddhist texts. Deer peer at me through the trees. Others stroll up to check if my shoulder bag is edible. There are hundreds roaming untethered through Nara, a sprawling city 30 kilometers south of Kyoto that was Japan’s capital for most of the eighth…

This major body of water, surrounded by the main islands of Honshu, Kyushu and Shikoku, offers a beguiling mix of art, culture and history. Epic Road’s Mark Lakin (ml@epicroad.com), a member of T+L’s Travel Advisory Board, can book this tour of the region. epicroad.com; from US$1,000 per person per day. GETTING THERE From Tokyo, take an 80-minute flight to Takamatsu, a city on the northern shore of Shikoku. DAY 1 In Takamatsu, visit the 17th-century Risurin Park and Shikoku Village, an open-air museum of vernacular architecture. At nearby Konpira-san, hike 1,368 steps to a Shinto shrine. Stay at Kotohira Kadan (kotohirakadan.jp; doubles from ¥28,230), a traditional ryokan-onsen. DAY 2 Drive south to Mount Tsurugi, then climb to the top for panoramic views. Head into the secluded Iya Valley and spend the…

This journey through the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands takes in local cuisine, relaxing onsens, and strikingly diverse landscapes. Tesia Smith (tesia.smith@audleytravel.com), a member of the T+L A-List of top travel advisors, can book this and similar tours. audleytravel.com; from US$500 per day. GETTING THERE From Tokyo, take a two-hour flight to Fukuoka, a city on the island’s northern shore. Book your return flight from Kagoshima, on the southern side. DAY 1 Spend the day in Fukuoka’s Hakata District exploring the Fukuoka Asian Art Museum (faam.city.fukuoka.lg.jp) and the eighth-century Kushida Shrine. A food tour by Fukuoka Walks (fukuokawalks.com) encompasses the Yanagibashi Rengo Fish Market, a department-store food hall, and the city’s lasting street vendors. Stay at the Grand Hyatt (hyatt.com; doubles from ¥21,120). DAY 2 Drive two hours south to Kurokawa,…