Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2016 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

THIS MONTH ON TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM 4 HOT HONG KONG RESTAURANTS From Southern fried chicken to a S’more bar, the city’s coolest newcomers are taking comfort food to the next level. A 1,000-KILOMETER DRIVE IN MALAYSIA Take the road less traveled with two of our contributors, to find 30,000-year-old cave art, waterfalls and wildlife. DISCOVERING JAPAN’S YAEYAMA IS LANDS With peerless surfing waves, vibrant reefs and unique local culture, these lesser-known islands have plenty to offer. LOOKOUT All-star Instagrammers share their favorite foods; Kuala Lumpur’s kaiseki king; a new app for cooking classes across Asia; the latest travel deals and more. travelandleisureasia.com DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS Available on iOS, Android, Win 8 and Zinio Desktop Reader. FOLLOW US TW ITT ER.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA FACEBOOK.COM/TRAVELLEISUREASIA PINTEREST .COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA INSTAGRAM.COM/TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA KEEP UP WITH US Sign up…

Your favorite beach hideaway could soon become the next Phuket. Expedia’s 2016 Global Flip Flop Report surveys 11,115 adults in 24 countries across the globe and finds beach vacations to be perennially popular: more than half of all respondents have taken to the shore in the past 12 months, and almost six in 10 are planning to take a beach vacation within a year. Among those planning a seaside break, almost half say they will be looking for a secluded shore. Their favorite activity? Relaxing and “doing nothing.” Luckily, not everyone is shipping off to a distant islet to ruin your peace. Famous beaches still attract most holidaymakers for being the center of activity, perhaps because an astounding 72% travel with families. Below is a more comprehensive look at how…

FEW WERE SURPRISED last year when Tory Burch announced Tory Sport, her new venture into athletic wear. After all, Burch, a varsity tennis captain in high school, has spent the past decade or so turning her particular brand of preppy apparel into a fashion empire. “I saw a real shift in the way women were dressing,” the designer says. “There aren’t as many rules now. People are wearing sportswear in their evening looks, and it works.” After launching as an e-commerce business last year, Tory Sport now ships to countries in this region including Australia, New Zealand, China and India. Although she travels a lot, Burch still spends most of her summers at her home in Southampton. Here, she shares the details of her vacation routine. HAMPTONS HAUNTS A typical…

There’s a definite Peranakan twist in the renovated InterContinental Singapore, and it gives the 403-room hotel a homey feel despite being in the center of the city. In the lobby, subtle local design touches evoke the shophouse-living of Singapore’s past, from the batik tile floors to the traditional food containers and ceramics on the bookshelves. Deluxe rooms have been redone with silkthreaded wall coverings and detailed wood carvings. At Ash & Elm, the hotel’s European dining restaurant, a skylight canopy allows the tropical sky to alter the mood depending upon the time of day, while mosaic tiles, aged oak, and copper partitions enliven the restaurant at ground level. intercontinental. com; Deluxe rooms or Premier suites from S$350 a night, including late checkout until 4 p.m.…

RESTAURANTS IN BERLIN used to get by with appealing to the right clientele and finding a cheap space. But these days both rents and expectations are higher— forcing everyone to up their game. “Young international chefs, with training in Scandinavia and Paris, are coming to Berlin and getting serious while having fun,” says restaurateur Ramses Manneck. The Mexican expat behind several laid-back, boozy boîtes recently opened a small bar called Wild Things (wildthingsberlin.de), where he serves natural wine and inventive snacks like Peking-duck rillettes. From the dapper crew behind legendary steak house Grill Royal and the Michelinstarred Pauly Saal comes Le Petit Royal (lepetitroyal.de; mains €25-€35), near the upscale Savignyplatz area of Charlottenburg. Despite its old-school society crowd, the dining room is lined with provocative art, such as a site-specific…

IN 2003, I BOUGHT AN OLD STONE HOUSE on the Croatian island of Hvar from a fellow named Mikšić. I agreed to pay his asking price in cash, but when I inquired about bringing a certified check to the closing, there was polite laughter. A piece of paper purporting to represent money isn’t really money, he told me, as an adult would disabuse a child of a silly notion. Which is how I found myself on a flight to Split with a big wad of cash rolled up in my sock, like a proper grown-up. Before Communism blew itself up in the early 1990s, much of Eastern Europe came to this stretch of coast to play. In summer, the Serbs would make a beeline for the beaches of Yugoslavia, which…

A survey developed by the editors of Travel + Leisure, in association with digital marketing firm Wylei, was made available at tlworldsbest.com/intl from November 2, 2015, to February 29, 2016. Readers were invited to participate through Travel + Leisure magazine, T+L tablet editions, newsletters, social media and travelandleisure.com. Wylei maintained, monitored, and kept the survey website secure, and also collected and tabulated the responses. To protect the integrity of the data, after the survey closed, Travel + Leisure and Wylei screened the responses to identify fraudulent votes, which were eliminated from the final result tallies. Respondents were asked to rate airlines, airports, car-rental agencies, cities, cruise ships, destination spas, hotels, hotel brands, islands, tour operators, and safari outfitters on a number of characteristics (see right). For each characteristic, respondents could…

i remember the first time I consciously went to King’s Cross, on the northeastern edge of central London, and by “consciously,” I mean in the first sweaty bloom of swaggering adolescence, up for life and mouth wide open to suck up the big city. My friend John and I had traveled in by Tube from our natal homes in the north London ’burbs; we had L9 in cash between us and we were wired on amphetamine “blues”—speed pills that, at four for L1, were attractively priced for teenaged punk rockers in the late 1970s. We were en route to Jock’s Tattoo Parlour, and perhaps this fact alone—that we had to journey across town to be inkily inscribed—serves to separate that era from this one, when no gentrifying London neighborhood is…

With thousands of islands stretching across Asia, Indonesia is in the fortunate position of having something for everyone. The charms of Bali are what immediately spring to mind and, with everything that is going on there, it's no surprise the island is still popular both for its traditions and its cutting-edge take on the future. Looking beyond the isLand, you'LL come across gems such as Lombok, which soars into the clouds from its beautiful coastline; and Raja Ampat, part of the "Coral Triangle" that now is recognized as one of the most beautiful destinations in Asia. If you've not heard of Banyuwangi, which is next to Bali, you should read up on it and visit. Further north, Makassar is becoming a favorite among tourists looking to get off the beaten…

hour or two depending on exactly where you're headed. Meanwhile, ferry services can whisk you from Singapore straight to Batam Island in an hour or so. While as good a starting point for exploration as any, Batam is somewhat bars-and-beer based—which is fine if that's what you want. But travelers seeking a more relaxed getaway should head to Bintan and beyond, also accessible directly from Singapore. If you do take the ferry to Bintan, check to see if it stops near the southwest of the island: here you can find the serene Chinese Banyan Tree Temple, said to be more than 200 years old. For more serenity and solitude, we also recommend Rempang and Galang islands, which are connected by bridges to Batam and to each other. Melur Beach on…

carriers) is fast becoming a tourism favorite, acting as a gateway to other eastern areas of the Indonesian archipelago and to the island of South Sulawesi, on which it sits. Makassar boasts a fascinating history—far too much to go into detail here. But one of the most significant historical facts is that this seaport was a major global trading city in Asia due to its proximity to the Spice Islands of Maluku. Because of this history, Makassar is one of the most multicultural centers in Indonesia and reminder of its maritime heritage is the Pelabuhan Paotere harbor, 4 kilometers north of the city center and one of the few remaining places where working phinisi are evident. The harbor itself is worth a look—a few streets away is one of Indonesia's…

If you follow the usual caveats—travel during off-peak times, avoiding weekends, paydays and public holidays—you'll be there in a zippy 90-minute road trip on a modern highway. You can use taxi or ride services to get there, hire a car, or use one of the many tour services found online. Or you might prefer to take the train, which immerses you in the peaks and valleys, and which takes a leisurely three hours or so. Tickets are available from stations in Jakarta and can also be bought online. For stays, there is a range of accommodation options including five-star hotels, one of which is attached to a huge (and worth a visit) theme park. No trip to Bandung is complete without ticking off two must-dos from any planned itinerary. The…

SUPER SAVER Padma Resort Ubud This 149-room resort spans 11 hectares across a river valley. Your stay includes a dinner for two, a 60-minute massage for two, afternoon tea and return airport transfers. The Deal Grand Opening: three nights in a Premier room, from Rp8,293,320 for two, through March 31, 2017. Save 40%. padmaresortubud.com DINING St. Regis Bali Resort When it comes to culinary crafts, there’s nothing short of exceptional at this beachfront resort in Nusa Dua, and this offer packs foodies’-favorite experiences into one allinclusive package. Breakfast and buffet dinner at Boneka feature highlights like lobsteregg omelets and Valrhona chocolate fountain, while your daily afternoon tea for two at King Cole Bar pairs Europeaninspired tea selections with delicacies like lobster pie, scones with clotted cream, and homemade praline and…

A and this is just a lowercaste wedding,” whispers Tasya, who with her friend Tommy is one of my two partners in gluttony for the day. We’ve been delayed in our quest for babi guling by a swarm of women in towering, gilded headdresses and embroidered sarongs that has invaded the street. This being Bali, the rickety motorbikes and cars part for the procession, rather than the other way around, and just like that a major road is closed until who-knows-when. “At an upper-caste one, the ornaments are even higher and even heavier.” “There’s always something unexpected going on around here,” Tommy says. Maybe, but these guys have volunteered to take me down Nusa Dua’s narrow alleys for some real Balinese food—specifically a porcine extravaganza—and our destination, Warung Pak Dobeil,…

1 Karryn Miller WRITER In the Zone Page 25 Miller visited the world’s unlikeliest location for an art gallery—the gray area between North and South Korea. A battleground during the war, the Yeoncheon-gun area was attacked by North Korea as recently as 2015. “A sense of unease still surrounds it. The hope is that Yeongang Gallery will help change the image of region by the DMZ.” Miller’s observations? “It’s a verdant, rural area that has a relaxed vibe to it. Looking out my car window was a view I’d expect during a pleasant country drive. However, looking at my passenger seat, where I had a military escort, made me realize this place is different.” 2 Juliana Loh WRITER Mellow Macau Page 42 “Traditional, glitzy, slow” Macau, Loh says, is a…

MOST TRIPS to a museum don’t require a military escort, but then Yeongang Gallery is not your typical art space. Above the South Korean Civilian Control Line, which runs alongside the Demilitarized Zone (commonly known as the DMZ), the gallery is the first of its kind to open near the heavily armed border. The site of fierce fighting during the Korean War is now verdant countryside as a result of it being designated for agriculture more than half a century ago. Despite an initial sense of unease upon entry— visitors must pass through a military checkpoint and be escorted by a soldier—the region, and the gallery itself, is remarkably tranquil. The inaugural exhibition by Han Sungpil, titled “Innocence,” echoes this by showing the rugged beauty of the area through photographs…

CALLING THE CHANGES TO the Peninsula Beijing a renovation is a bit like saying that wall in China is noticeable. The 27-year-old property reopens this month with 230 suite-style rooms, a drastic drop from the 525 rooms in its prior incarnation. Each has a separate bedroom, living room, bathroom and dressing room. Tablets are preset in 11 different languages to control room access, all room functions and room-service menus. Public areas draw heavily from China’s modern art scene, and are designed as a welcome more often found in the city’s opulent palaces and vast gardens. beijing. peninsula.com; doubles from RMB2,200.…

BIG BRANDS MAY be stamping their mark in Singapore with flagship stores, but the real retail renegades are independent labels that have been capturing the hearts and wallets of savvy collectors with designs that reflect artisanal craftsmanship and a twist on traditional Asian motifs. Instead of items that shout out a social status, these pieces du jour tell stories of culture and tradition while showcasing techniques that have been revered through time. From Burmese-inspired leather bomber jackets to limited-edition ceramic plates imprinted with Singapore icons, here are five boutiques to check out for the next conversation starter in your wardrobe and home. ATOMI You’ll have to help your dinner guests discern what is edible with Atomi’s contemporary kitchen and tableware. Brass trivets, cocktail picks and bottle-openers take on the forms…

FAMILY CHINA, HONG KONG, PHILIPPINES Marco Polo Hotels Bring your entire brood to any of Marco Polo’s 13 properties, because when you book a room, the second room comes at 50-percent off and includes access to Piccolo Kids Club for the young ones. You’re also entitled to an upgrade to the next room category when you book directly on the website. The Deal Family Fish: a night in two Superior rooms, from US $170 for four; book by September 18. Save 25%. marcopolohotels.com. PHUKET Sri Panwa After unwrapping an exclusive gift set from the resort, descend to Baba Soul Food for a complimentary five-course family dinner to fuel up for a complimentary half-day trip to Phuket town or Patong the next day. Additional meals at Baba Poolclub as well as…

If THE BUDDHA WERE LIVING NOW, I THINK HE WOULD use social media,” said Baasan Lama, the fresh-faced abbot of Erdene Zuu, Mongolia’s oldest monastery. He flashed a luminous smile. “I already have a Facebook page.” From the folds of his thick red-and-gold robes, he pulled a small book he had published four months earlier that offers 108 tips for right action in a scattered world. “Short,” he told me, in no-nonsense English. “People don’t like to read long books these days!” Visitors from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s boomtown capital, kept bundling into the small room where I was sitting with the Hamba Lama Baasansuren, as he is officially known, to receive his blessings and teachings. Not many minutes earlier, in the 17th-century whitewashed prayer hall next door, I’d listened to him…

PLACES WITH PERSONALITY Singapore's neighborhoods are as distinct and varied as the bloodlines pulsing through the city's multiethnic populace. KATONG This Eastern suburb has much to offer: pictureperfect colorful Peranakan shophouses along Joo Chiat Road; Singapore’s best rice noodles in spicy coconut milk soup at 328 Katong Laksa (51 East Coast Rd.); and Chin Mee Chin Confectionary (204 East Coast Rd.), one of the rare kopitiams (old-school coffee shops) left in town. ORCHARD The shopping hub of Asia doesn’t need much of an introduction. Ion Orchard (ionorchard.com) is a muststop for all luxury brands; Far East Plaza (fareastplaza. com.sg) has a wide variety of edgy street fashion popular with the young and young-atheart. Need a break? Stroll up pretty Emerald Hill Road and have a leisurely afternoon tea at Tea Bone Zen Mind (teabonezenmind.com). KAMPONG…

Seminyak is where many head first—and then stay. Of course, there's more to Bali than this Western-oriented party area, but that's not to say that Seminyak doesn't offer up some top-notch experiences. As well as smart new hotels and pumping beach clubs, while you're in the area, head to the brand-new Seminyak Village shopping center, right behind Seminyak Square, for air-conditioned retail luxury and divine dining experiences. If secluded beach paradises are your thing, then visit the relatively undiscovered Nyang Nyang beach in Uluwatu—but be prepared to climb down a staircase to access it. Closer to Denpasar is the stunning Tanah Lot Temple: a picture-perfect island sanctuary that dates back to the 16th Century. Use Google maps, your hotel concierge or a reliable taxi service to get to either. Those…

percent of known coral species; has the highest diversity of reef fish; claims the world's largest fish, the whale shark; is a habitat for the coelacanth, once thought to be extinct; and is home to six of the world's seven marine turtle species. Raja Ampat is located just off the northwest coast of New Guinea, you'll need to fly to the city of Sorong first, head to the ferry harbor and then onwards to Waisai on the island of Waigeo. We recommend a luxury live aboard diving trip for the full experience—a seven-day stay on a traditional phinisi schooner is just the ticket. Travelers seeking equally breathtaking trips can also head to the Wakatobi islands in Southeast Sulawesi, also within the Coral Triangle. Start with Wangi-Wangi Island, home to Matahora…

Getting to Medan is easy; in fact, you can fly there directly from Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and even Penang thanks to a number of international airlines and low-cost alternatives. Of course, it's also accessible from within Indonesia and is a perfect spot from which to visit Lake Toba, one of the world's largest freshwater lakes. Once in Medan, you'll be spoiled for choice when it comes to places to stay. The center of town boasts several luxury hotels which themselves offer access to many must-visit Medan attractions such as the Tjong A Fie Mansion, a distant cousin of the famous Cheong Fatt Tze "blue" Mansion in Penang. This Peranakan structure once housed one of Medan's most notable residents, honored several times by Dutch colonialists. Culture vultures will also enjoy the…

in its own right—well worth exploring and with easy access to stunning scenery. We'd even go so far as to recommend planning a trip to the town and its surroundings if you're staying on Bali itself—head for the Ubung Bus Terminal in Denpasar and find a bus to Gilimanuk, and then take the ferry from Gilimanuk to Banyuwangi. Total cost shouldn't be much more than Rp300,000 depending on where you're traveling from and which sort of service you choose. Of the many attractions in the area, the Mt. Ijen crater is a literal hotspot. This active, spluttering volcanic area and the plateau it sits in are breathtaking, famed for vivid blue water lakes and eruptions that, at night, are lit with an eerie blue iridescence. Be sure to hire a…

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BALI’S CHARMS blossom the moment the traffic-choked, onestreet towns are left behind, and the journey turns towards either the terraced emerald rice fields, or the white foam-flecked coast. Happily, newly opened The Samata (thesamata.com; doubles from Rp1,630,413) in Sanur offers the best of both worlds. The resort’s entrance is practically lost along a row of unremarkable private residences that are set off a busy highway. Once past the smiling security guards and across a bijou concrete bridge that spans a little stream, the vista opens up tardis-like into a cloistered haven of manicured greenery and white Palimanan stone. Framing the tableau is an expanse of rice fields and, beyond that, the shimmering curve of the ocean. Each of the 10 villas and suites ticks off all the required boxes of…

WE’VE WOUND OUR WAY UP INTO THE orange-grove laden mountains of Kintamani, passing views of Lake Batur, scenes of traditional rural life and glimpses of volcanic peaks. Shrines are wrapped in black-and-white checked fabrics, shaded by golden umbrellas. Hibiscus flowers wend over stone carvings. Mossy walls shield family compounds with cocks strutting outside. We pass small plantations of cacao, papaya and bananas until the mist of mountains gives way to an ocean panorama. All of this beauty is why I get so defensive when people insist the crowds of the south mean Bali’s best days are over. The interior and the north are the island’s retort to those maligners. I’m juicing, stretching and bird watching my way through three natural-living retreats, which despite occupying varied landscapes—blacksand beach, oceanic protected park,…

EACH YEAR, OUR WORLD’S BEST AWARDS MARKS AN OPPORTUNITY FOR YOU, our readers, to choose your travel favorites. Covering Asia, a blend of historyladen cultures and picture-postcard destinations, we tend to see the best of the region hovering at the top of, if not dominating, each list. This year is no exception (“The World’s Best Awards, page 59), with Nihiwatu, that magical Indonesian getaway, taking top honors as the best hotel in the world. What stands out most, aside from Nihiwatu’s modest size, is the connection its guests feel while there. As designer Yves Behar points out in the special section, “This is a place that gives you the opportunity to enter somebody else’s reality, somebody else’s tradition, somebody else’s culture.” That ideal is also evident with other winners. Singapore’s…

THERE’S MORE TO MACAU than meets the eye. Look beyond the blinding neon of the next new giant casino-hotel opening, and you’ll find a lesser known and quickly developing side of the city that offers a subtler slice of life. Independent restaurants and shops, designed by a pool of upcoming local talent, are dipping into Macau’s history and natural bounty to offset the modern brightlight behemoths. Here, a weekend exploring the best of the city’s past, present and future. FRIDAY 4:30 p.m. | Strip Down To kick off your weekend, start with the big bling. Check in at The St. Regis for unrivaled views of the strip, a Vegasstyle boulevard lined with hotels and casinos in a kaleidoscope of constant action, then drop your bags and head out to explore…

Who’s to judge? You are. Every year T+L asks readers to dish on their travel experiences—to share their opinions on everything from Asian islands to European cities, all-inclusive beach resorts to hilltop palazzos. Those assessments collectively define excellence in travel today, forming the basis of the World’s Best Awards. This year’s edition marks the biggest World’s Best Awards ever. We counted a record number of votes—more than 200,000 respondents submitted ratings—added dozens of new categories, and saw a heap of new players make the lists. (For more details on how the awards work, turn to page 84.) Kudos to all the winners, and thanks to you. Cities & Islands CHARLESTON IS THE FIRST U.S. DESTINATION IN 16 YEARS TO TOP OUR LIST OF THE MOST LAUDED CITIES. AND PALAWAN RETURNS…

I was only five years old the first time I went to Tahiti, though I still recall the trip as though it took place yesterday. I remember splashing around in a gin-clear creek with my baby sister and going mad with fright when a crab waved its claws at us from the creek bed. I remember sitting cross-legged on the floor of the palm-thatch bungalow we called home for two weeks as my mother served chunks of steamed fish. And I remember sitting on my father’s lap in the back of a pick-up truck, speeding along a palmfringed coast. Over the years I’ve traveled extensively but few destinations have left as lasting an impression as Tahiti. Like the Polynesian beauties in Paul Gauguin’s paintings, the islands woo me to return,…

A good place to start is the Bundaran HI area, in the center of the city and named after the famous roundabout [bundaran in Bahasa Indonesia). As well as five-star hotels, this area is also home to the city's two poshest malls: Plaza Indonesia and Grand Indonesia. If you're looking to browse for brand-name goods in air-conditioned malls, these are the places to head for. Use this area as a base, several of the hotels also feature rooftop bars and restaurants commanding stunning views of this sprawling city. Not too far away is the Pasar Tanah Abang market, one of the largest in Southeast Asia and a great place to snap up local textile bargains. It's a great chance to mingle with the locals. Those seeking something more sedate should…

several low-cost carriers also offer flights directly from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Meanwhile, there's a profusion of top-end places to stay, most of which are excellent starting points from which to explore the city's famous Javanese fine arts, including ballet, drama, music and puppetry, At Yogya's spiritual center is Taman Sari, or the "Water Castle" park. Here, cultural relics sit within stone pavilions and water pools, reflecting Javanese, Hindu, European and Javanese influences. For even more historical relics, head to the huge Candi Prambanan temple, and, of course, to Borobudur, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The latter, the world's largest Buddhist temple, comprises nine platforms, more than 2,500 relief displays, and more than 500 images of Buddha. Combining the two temples in one day is a challenge,…

Lombok is also a final destination in its own right, one that presents a more laidback pace of life than Bali and fewer tourists, although numbers are swelling. Many will head to the popular honeypot of Senggigi, well known for its beautiful west-facing beaches. The town itself offers up vibrant nightlife and entertainment, but travelers should also be aware that much of the Senggigi area is also under-developed. A plus point but take care when booking a hotel. Many choose to base themselves in Senggigi and balance out the low-key hedonism with day trips to the nearby waterfalls and villages. We also recommend taking time out to explore the Pura Batu Bolong temple, a short trip away. This Hindu temple is one of the most enchanting beauty spots on the…

THE MORE THINGS CHANGE IN BALI, THE MORE THE ISLAND’S allure remains. As everyone knows, this is not and never has been your typical resort getaway. Bali remains a one-of-a-kind destination, a continually evolving gem in the middle of Indonesia, one with popular beaches; tiered, emerald-green rice terraces; a culture as rich as found anywhere in Asia; and a distinct flair when it comes to food. Our aim in this e-guide is to capture a glimpse of all of these traits, encouraging you to visit, whether it’s for the first time or the tenth. We have stories on resorts like you’ve never seen on this island that already boasts some of the best addresses in the world. We’ve also got the inside scoop when it comes to the fashion and…