Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2017 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

1 Weixiang Lim PHOTOGRAPHER Motor City Page 120 “Jakarta is a melting pot, but different from Singapore,” says Lim, who lives in the city-state. “Our diversity is more overt, you see people of different skin colors, from all around the world. Jakarta brings together people from all across the vast Indonesian archipelago. The best part of this assignment was photographing Friday prayers at the Istiqlal. Seeing the mass of people prostrate as one gave me goosebumps. It was truly humbling.” Yes, the city’s notorious traffic was bad during peak hours, “but there is a hack: using motorcycle taxis which make for thrilling rides.” Instagram: @weixianglimsg. 2 Janice Leung Hayes WRITER Best of 2017: Hong Kong Page 73 “It’s a fast city, really fast,” says the Melbourne-raised writer of Hong Kong,…

With its ideal combination of the vibrant city life and the great outdoors, Geneva is inviting all year-round. Located in the hear t of Europe amids t a dreamy setting, here you can experience wor ld-clas s events, fine dining, exclusive shopping and unforgettable excursions in the Alps. DISCOVER MORE DID YOU KNOW? The flower clock consists of 6,500 flowers and plants while its seconds-hand is 2.5 metres long. D GENEVA, CRADLE OF LUXURY WATCHMAKING It’s no wonder that the famous 140m high Jet d’Eau, the symbol of the city has its origins in Geneva’s watchmaking history. Today, one can find here the finest watchmaking manufacturers worldwide, rightly establishing Geneva as the cradle of Swiss watchmaking. Tradition, innovation and constant demand for excellence is what makes Swiss watchmaking unique. LIVE…

MACHU PICCHU MIGHT HOG ALL the attention, but Peru has much more to offer visitors than a single destination: Lake Titicaca and the Pacific shores along the Pan-American Highway north of Lima make for tranquil beach getaways; the capital’s food and wine scene is one of the best in South America; and attractions like the Nazca Lines and the Paracas National Reserve provide alternatives for visitors who have already explored Machu Picchu. Peruvian tourism is booming—this year, a record 3.8 million international visitors are expected—and the travel industry has responded with new itineraries and infrastructure to satisfy those hungry for more immersive ways of experiencing the country. Here are five new trips worth taking. AN EPIC TRAIN RIDE THROUGH THE ANDES The Andean Explorer is the first sleeper in South…

1 / FIND A LOCAL OUTFITTER Florence-based Central Italy Motorcycle Tours (cimt.it) will map out a manageable route; a rental costs €190 to €300 per week. Novices can do this trip, though it’s smart to take a practice spin (or two) at home. 2 / PACK LIGHT A carry-on-size duffel is the way to go, since it can rest comfortably between your feet while riding. A small satchel with valuables can be stowed in the lockable compartment under the seat. 3 / DRIVE SAFE On country roads, you are subject to the same rules as cars, but in some towns and cities you can take a Vespa onto streets that are off-limits to automobiles. Parking is a cinch: as long as you’re not blocking traffic, you’re good. 4 / DRESS…

SOUTH KOREA SKYWALK Seoullo7017 The transformation of an old Seoul overpass into a vibrant sky-high walkway has helped connect the east of the city to the west, previously cut off by the Seoul Station railway tracks. Named Seoullo7017, the Highline-like path draws visitors not just out of convenience, but also with its 24,000 plants that line the one-kilometer strip, stylish Korean restaurants and cafes, a pocket-sized gallery, daily live music and kids’ entertainment. seoullo7017.seoul.go.kr. HONG KONG EAT Happy Paradise Her Chinese-style “burgers” at first restaurant, Little Bao, were a big hit, and many have been hoping for a larger restaurant for May Chow, named Asia’s Best Female Chef of 2017, to really spread her creative culinary wings. The answer to those prayers is Happy Paradise, a modern Chinese bistro with…

As a fiercely independent traveler with a propensity for getting tanked with strangers in planes, trains and the backseat of automobiles, the idea of spending a week at a wellness retreat in the fields practicing yoga while subsisting on flaxseed, berries and group hugs is downright terrifying. But when Josh Davies, an Australian chef of note working in Bali told me about his new gig at Chōsen Experiences, a next-generation health camp designed to help participants push the boundaries of their physical and cognitive development, my interest was piqued. Chōsen’s seven-day “Lifestyle Optimization “The tipping point was about five years ago when I went two weeks straight sleeping only two to three hours a night. And I had colds all the time and I didn’t know why. I’d become outwardly…

Spend a weekend with a beaming life coach, a top dietitian, a yoga aficionado and an art-therapy expert at a quiet beachside haven, and by Monday, you may be feeling like a paragon of wellness. JW Marriott Phuket Resort and Spa’s annual Reboot and Re-Evaluate workshop, hosted by their Mandara Spa, aims to motivate and educate guests on everything from stressreduction to brain function to fat loss. The resort’s executive chef fixes up healthy fare, even leading a few cooking demonstrations so that you can take a stab at clean eating at home. Activities like face yoga and aromatherapy 101 are sprinkled between lectures on gut health and mediation sessions. To fully wrap yourself in the relaxing locale, two massage treatments at the resort’s award-winning spa are included. The next…

GETTING THERE To reach Australia’s Top End, the northernmost section of the Nothern Territory, fly to Darwin via Brisbane, Melbourne or Sydney. TOUR OPERATOR Epic Private Journeys A Brisbane-based operator offering bespoke travel itineraries throughout Australia. epic privatejourneys.com; Top End trips from A$1,028 per person per day. STAY SkyCity Darwin This resort is walking distance from the city center, but its five restaurants and 24-hour entertainment complex make it a destination of its own. skycitydarwin.com.au; doubles from A$226. ARNHEM LAND GETTING THERE Take an hour-long flight from Darwin to Jabiru, then drive two hours east on dirt roads. STAY Davidson’s Arnhem Land Safaris Located in the bush, this camp has a lounge, library and pool. Guests stay in the surrounding private cabins. arnhemland- safaris.com; cabins from A$772. BERKELEY RIVER GETTING THERE…

HOTELS Four Seasons Jakarta With architecture by Cesar Pelli, interiors by the atelier of New York–based designer Alexandra Champalimaud and landscaping by Bill Bensley, no detail has been spared at the new, all-suite hotel. Chinoiserie wall panels, Indonesian art and Italian marble bathrooms distinguish the accommodations, while a lush outdoor pool, plush bar and Italian restaurant Alto are among the pick of the extras. fourseasons.com; doubles from US$190. Westin Jakarta Situated on the top 20 floors of Indonesia’s highest building, the 304-meter-tall Gama Tower, the new Westin offers a lofty perspective on things. The chic, airy rooms and features such as an indoor heated pool are an elevated take on luxury, and at Henshin, a Japanese/Peruvian bar-restaurant on its uppermost floors, Chef Hajime Kasuga presides over a menu that includes…

HISTORIC LIGHTS The island of Menorca is dotted with lighthouses— seven, to be exact. Visit one to learn about the region’s maritime history while enjoying panoramic views of the Mediterranean. GETTING THERE Fly to Menorca Airport via Madrid, Barcelona, or other European hubs like London and Rome. HOTELS Alcaufar Vell The 21 rooms and various outbuildings at this historic property—portions of which are said to date back to the 14th century—have been gracefully modernized. Sant Lluís; alcaufar vell.com; doubles from €210. Torralbenc Set amid vineyards, this oasis of luxury features 27 warmly minimalist rooms in converted farm buildings. There’s also a lovely spa, a restaurant and a knockout swimming pool. Alaior; torralbenc.com; doubles from €170. RESTAURANTS & BARS Cova d’en Xoroi Make your way through a series of caves to…

“New Zealand Gran d Cru” October 2014, Jeninne Lee-St. John, deputy editor With apologies to Asia, whenever someone asks me the one place in the world they should visit, I say New Zealand. On a 10-day, wine-soa ked, action-packed road trip of the North Island, from Wellington to Auckland, I looked into the eyes of seals and moose on a black-sand beach on m isty Cook Strait, and jumped out of a plane over Kawau Parua Inlet. I discovered that top-notch Kiwi accommodation means elevated ranch livi ng that’s all-inclusive and locavore to the hilt, where your roast lamb comes with a Pinot Noir from the next valley over and a pedigree even closer: namely the pens across the 2,500 hectares of rolling meadows of the working farm surrounding your…

GETTING THERE Fly to either Osaka or Tokyo, where there is regular rail service to Kyoto. The Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo takes about 2. hours. HOTELS & RYOKANS Four Seasons Centered around an 800-year-old ikeniwa (pond garden), the property is a tranquil oasis, with 123 light-filled guest rooms and suites, a teahouse and a large spa. fourseasons.com; doubles from ¥72,900. Hoshinoya A restored, century-old riverside villa in Arashiyama with woodblock-print designs, shoji sliding doors and tatami mats. Guests can see cherry blossoms from their rooms. hoshino resorts.com; doubles from ¥139,396. The Ritz-Carlton A luxury property known for its standout service and sleek rooms; request one with a river view. ritzcarlton.com; doubles from ¥76,734. Tawaraya This is arguably the best ryokan in Kyoto (if not all of Japan). The traditional…

A SLIGHT DRIZZLE WELCOMES the new day, though the dense Swiss Alpine forest catches most of the rainfall before it splashes to the ground, the more dominant sounds being cowbells ringing from across a distant valley. I’m on a 90-minute walk along a cliff path that towers over the southern shores of Lake Lucerne, the finicky September sky playing autumnal tricks with the weather. As the trail zigzags its way through the coniferous forest, I’d hazard a guess that the scene has changed little in the past 150 years, aside from the reopened Burgenstock Resort where I’m staying. The hidden getaway still caters to elite travelers—I’m one of them, at least for a night—but has a pedigree that really comes to life on this short trek. My goal before breakfast…

1 / BABAZUF Tucked away on a street near Siena’s central plaza, this osteria is famous for its delicate house-made pastas—particularly the five-colored gnocchi and tagliatelle with black truffles. osteriababazuf.com; mains €7–€18. 2 / IL BACCHINO Don’t bother reading the menu at this tiny enoteca in Massa Marittima. Just ask the owners to bring you their best local cheeses and cured meats. 8 Via Moncini; 39-566/940-229; small plates €3–€10. 3 / DIVERSUS At this warm and friendly spot on the central plaza in Greve in Chianti, owner Bernard Buys pairs his vast selection of Tuscan wines with exquisite cured meats. diversusrestaurant.it; mains €10–€19. 4 / LA BOTTEGAIA This osteria in Pistoia serves flavorful, hearty dishes like duck macaroni and artichoke tart in Parmesan sauce. Try the lardo, sliced paper-thin and…

my favorite travel writers, the ones who inspired me in my journeys and career, set their most important works in early- to mid-20th-century Southeast Asia. To provide convincing backdrops for their tales of lost men and women, ethical crises, and the visible dissolution of empire, Somerset Maugham, Joseph Conrad and Graham Greene spent months on ships, trains, and even mule (in the case of Maugham, from Mandalay to Chiang Mai). They suffered, they kept journals, then they holed up in grand pre-war hotels, recovering from the rigors of the road with a steady flow of gin and English tea while hacking notes into narrative. Their fellow guests were statesmen, explorers, spies, world-weary socialites, con artists—enticing material for juicy characters. These early hotels in Bangkok, Rangoon, Singapore, Hong Kong, Hanoi, Siem…

THIS MONTH ON TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM WILD LOMBOK Teeming with natural life and lush jungles, this Indonesian isle is Bali’s untamed, unspoiled sibling. We’ve got a few reasons why you should consider a visit. WHERE TO EAT IN RANGOON The dining scene in this vibrant Burmese city is blowing up, as evidenced by these thoroughly craveworthy dishes. RIDING THE RAILS TO KAMPOT All aboard for a scenic ride to Cambodia’s atmospheric coastline for culture and cuisine, and a journey you never imagined. LOOKOUT Why you need to check out another underrated island paradise near Bali; an inside look at Changi Airport’s state-of-the-art new terminal; Yayoi Kusama’s dazzling exhibit in Tokyo; Hong Kong’s spirit-driven speakeasy; the latest travel deals and more. travelandleisureasia.com DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS Available on iOS, Android, Win 8…

WE ALL HAVE OUR FAVORITE JOURNEYS, TRIPS WE’VE MADE THAT make us smile long after the fact. This issue marks the 10th anniversary of Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia, so we’re taking a look at some of our contributors’ favorite trips for the magazine and are a little bit bowled over by the response. Each of the writers, editors and photographers came away with an entirely different focus about what makes travel memorable (“10 Favorites,” page 21). One writes that she returns to familiar stops only to uncover the unfamiliar. As a photographer points out, sometimes what makes a place so memorable is right under our noses, while another has to agree as he’s surfing on an Indonesian wave he’ll never forget. Travel, points out a writer, underscores how our lives are continually…

WHEN I MOVED TO KYOTO from New York 30 years ago, I knew something of what awaited me: Silent, snowbound statues around the city’s 1,600 Buddhist temples, blond-wood plaques offering prayers in its 400 Shinto shrines. The suggestive magic of high shoes clacking down narrow lanes in the geisha district. Archers demonstrating their skill in the 400-year-old competition held at Sanjusangen-do, or the Temple of 1,001 Goddesses, each January. Everywhere, a refinement developed over the 10 centuries Kyoto was home to the Japanese court. What I didn’t expect was an ancient capital seasoned and savvy enough to keep itself constantly new. Since my arrival, temples have begun opening their gates after nightfall for “Light-Up” displays that project holograms across white raked-sand gardens. I glimpse more kimonos amid ever-more fashionable old…

I DIDN’T EXPECT TO BE BOWLED over when I saw grilled octopus on the tasting menu at Blackwattle, the latest fine dining restaurant to open in Singapore. Though a safe bet with the seafood-loving populace, the mollusk has become rather predictable for a jaded foodie, especially on the table of yet another modern Australian restaurant. But under executive chef and co-owner Clayton Wells, the tender octopus tossed in a piquant red vinegar and XO sauce tastes anything but tired. Wells, one of Australia’s hottest chefs and owner of awardwinning Automata in Sydney, specializes in surprising the palate. For Wells, who has experience in the refined kitchens of Momofuku Seiobo and Tetsuya’s, as well as Copenhagen’s two–Michelin starred Noma, experimentation and unpredictability have become his signature style. The chef swaps the…

GETTING THERE Direct flights to Zurich leave from Singapore, Hong Kong and Bangkok. From Zurich it’s just one-hour by train to Lucerne. The Swiss Travel Pass (swiss-pass. ch; three-day pass in first class CHF344) covers train, bus and boat fares, and admission to 500 museums for up to 15 days. WHERE TO STAY Burgenstock Resort There are several options to book at this sweeping mountaintop resort, but consider the Burgenstock, with its Alpine Spa, or Palace hotels to start. buergenstock.ch; Burgenstock Hotel doubles from CHF568; Palace Hotel doubles from CHF324. Grand Hotel National With only 41 guestrooms, this 19th-century hotel is a throwback to another era. grandhotel-national.com; doubles from CHF261. Hotel Schweizerhof Lucerne About as central as you can get in Lucerne, the hotel names its 101 rooms and suites after…

AS I PRESSED THE IGNITION button on my white Vespa, I found myself seized by panic. My heart beat like a jackhammer, and a faint tremor crept into my fingertips. Judging from the facial expressions of my girlfriend, Stephanie— raised eyebrows, pursed lips—it was clear that she, too, was battling jitters as she fired up her own Vespa, a contrasting cherry red. What on earth had we gotten ourselves into? We were in a parking garage on the outskirts of Florence, readying ourselves for a six-day road trip in search of the sort of divine culinary experiences Tuscany is so famous for. Zipping from town to town, from enoteca to trattoria, we would sample the gooiest stracciatella, the boldest Brunellos, the lardiest lardo. In other words, we would do what…

SUPERSAVER X2 River Kwai Resort, Kanchanaburi While away the weekday afternoon against a backdrop of mountain ranges that extend to Burma, and the deep blue skies common at this time of year in the west of Thailand. Book a stay during the week at this riverside resort to receive up to 63 percent off the room rate. The Deal Happy Weekday offer: a night in a Luxe Cabin room, from Bt3,470 for two, through December 31, 2018. x2resorts.com. FAMILY LANGKAWI The St. Regis Langkawi Traveling with the family in tow? Then this playful package is aimed at you. Included is daily breakfast for two adults and two children; complimentary children’s menu for those under 12 years old with each adult meal; an in-room camping experience for children; and late check-out…

I’m convinced that if the combination of the setting sun’s golden light, the soothing sound of our vessel gliding through river, and the guiding voice of mindfulness teacher Brian Hilliard can’t help me slip into a meditative state, then nirvana probably isn’t in the cards for me. Taking a break from my half-assed attempts at enlightenment, I peek an eye open to catch a glimpse of the passing pagodas that dot the vast rural plains that border the Irrawaddy River. In a country brimming with monasteries and glittering temples, where Buddhism is at the heart of its culture and meditation is a way of life, Burma is the one place I should be able to get mindful. I’m onboard the Road to Mandalay, Belmond’s luxurious 90-meter-long vessel that makes three-…

“MISTER, QUICKLY. GET YOUR HAND BACK INSIDE,” SAYS HASAN, MY BAJAJ DRIVER, AS WE ROUND A TRAFFIC CIRCLE NEAR FATAHILLAH SQUARE, in Jakarta’s historic Kota Tua, a charismatic hodgepodge where mouthy vendors and interesting canal aromas add grit to grand plazas and fan-cooled colonial-era cafés. I hadn’t realized that my fingers were in peril until now. As Hasan attempts to thread his beat-up, blue motor rickshaw through an eye of a needle disguised as two cars, however, I swiftly retract my digits to the interior of my tarpaulin-capped, sheet-metal chariot. It’s important to stay sharp amid the maelstrom that is Indonesia’s capital. Not just since poor bajaj etiquette can easily result in near-amputation; more because there’s just so damn much to take in. Few cities in Asia are more abundant…