Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2018 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

There’s so much culinary ground to cover in Macao, a weekend is definitely way too short. From local diners that have been around for generations to private kitchens to internationally acclaimed fine dining, Macao has it all. There are plenty of white-tablecloth restaurants to choose from: Start with the slew of leaders in French gastronomy. Add in pan-Asian heroes like Shinji by Kanasaka—the Michelin two-starred Tokyo sushi master. Take note that the best Italian in town is at Michelin one-starred Otto e Mezzo by Bombana, younger sibling of the Michelin three-starred spot in Hong Kong. Last year, Macao was named a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, and it’s little wonder, with all the Michelin and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants winners. In fact, the city hosted the latter’s awards ceremony this year…

Dear Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia readers, We trust you. We trust your judgement. That’s why we want you to rate our global travel experiences for us, in the Travel+Leisure World’s Best Awards, now through March 4, 2019. These awards are recognized as travel’s highest honor, so it’s time to give back to those hotels, resorts, cities, airlines, cruise lines and destinations you love the most. Readers of all global editions of Travel+Leisure will participate in the awards, so this is your chance for Southeast Asia’s voice to be heard. So visit TLWorldsBest.com/intl and tell us exactly what you think. The full global results will be published in our August issue.…

Check your liquids You don’t have to scull liters of water to stay hydrated on board. Avoid coffee and alcohol, of course. And carry on produce with high water content, like apples, grapes, strawberries, melon or celery—just be sure to finish them before you land to avoid any issues at customs. You’re so vain (but it’s ok) If you want to disembark feeling fresh-faced, you’re going to need to bring your beauty haul on-board. We’re talking face masks, facial mists, a heavy-duty moisturizer and a reliable lip balm, plus dry shampoo to combat greasy locks. Learn the art of mindfulness Meditation will help drown out the noise and set you up for a quality sleep. Use relaxation apps like Headspace and Calm to help increase awareness and rewire your brain…

no. 1 After a two-year hiatus, a beloved New Zealand railway is back in action. KiwiRail’s Coastal Pacific route has been closed since 2016, when the Kaikoura earthquake caused severe damage to the line. The journey finally restarts this month, departing daily through the end of April. This epic 350-kilometer ride links Christchurch and the beach town of Picton—a six-hour scenic journey that meanders along the coastline between the mountains and the sea. From Picton, hop on the ferry and connect to the Northern Explorer train, which goes all the way to Auckland. It’s one of the best—and most beautiful—ways to see the diversity of the countryside. greatjourneysofnz.co.nz. no. 2 These are the latest restaurants in Seoul to see stars. Michelin stopped by the South Korean capital for its annual…

Just as I’m about to press the green button to open the door of one of Melbourne’s smallest hotels, it swings open. “I saw you coming,” says owner Darren Rubenstein with a broad smile, ushering me inside. With its bluestone floor and textured cement walls, the entrance hall of United Places feels like walking into one of the laneways the city is renowned for. Although this one comes flickering with candles, carrying the scent of orange blossom down the hall. Opened in June, United Places is the passion project of Rubenstein, a 38-year-old property developer who wanted to create a high-end home-hotel, celebrating his love of luxury, architecture, design, collaboration and food. Despite its striking concrete and bronze façade created by Carr Design Group, the hotel is softened by its…

CORSICA The 64-passenger Le Ponant, the original ship of French cruise operator Ponant, regularly visits this French, Italian and North African–influenced island. On the southeastern coast, you’ll see the limestone cliffs of the Gulf of Santa Manza before sailing north to Cargèse, famous for its historic churches. ponant.com; seven-night sailings from US$4,970 per person, all-inclusive. TUSCAN ISLANDS Brooklyn-based Sailing Collective, a charter company that also specializes in cruises of eight to 10 passengers, travels to this part of Italy, calling at pine-forested Isola del Giglio, home to three small villages, and volcanic Capraia, part of the 700-square-kilometer Arcipelago Toscano national park. sailingcollective.com; seven-night sailings from US$3,200 for a single cabin, all-inclusive. SPAIN SeaDream Yacht Club, which operates two 112-passenger vessels (left), now runs Wine Voyages, a showcase for the Med’s…

EAT + DRINK Old Bailey Homegrown powerhouse JIA Group is behind new haute- Chinese restaurant Old Bailey, located in the brand-new cultural hub of Tai Kwun (see below). The understated, light-filled room is inspired by a Chinese scholar’s study, while the menu takes on Jiangnan cuisine—think dishes from Suzhou, Nanjing and Shanghai, such as mala xiaolongbao (Iberico-pork soup dumplings with Sichuan pepper) and pigeon smoked with Longjing tea. Tea is by local artisanal brand Plantation. oldbailey.hk; meal for two from HK$750. Sushi Saito Tokyo’s Michelin-three-starred Sushi Saito opened its new branch outside of Japan, tucked away on the club floor of the Four Seasons Hong Kong. At the helm is Ikuya Kobayashi, who has been working with founder Takashi Saito for more than seven years. Ingredients are selected by chef…

The island paradise has long held currency as a party playground, but this year a new generation of design-led spaces stepped up the sophistication, breathing life into Bali’s beach-club scene. Combining cutting-edge fit-outs with sweeping views, world-class cuisine, cliff-dangling infinity pools and bigname DJs, these day-to-night venues are destinations in themselves. Laid-back Bukit Peninsula got a little livelier with two new clubs in Uluwatu. Ulu Cliffhouse (ulucliffhouse.com; drinks from US$8) was the first to turn up the tempo, with a luxe club reminiscent of 1960s Palm Springs. The cliffside complex includes an infinity pool, Med-inspired restaurant, music studio, art space and line-up of international DJs. Vegas export Omnia Dayclub (omnia clubs.com; drinks from US$8) shimmied into the same area next. Hovering 100 meters above the Indian Ocean, its swim-up bar…

THE FORMER PORTUGUESE COLONY is a city of paradoxes: crumbling old and shiny new; everything from architecture to food is a blend of East and West in good measure. Macau is constantly reinventing itself with new developments and a burgeoning arts scene that celebrates both its Portuguese legacy and Chinese heritage. The recent opening of the 55-kilometer bridge connecting it to Hong Kong and the mainland has helped grow Macau’s vibrant dining culture even further with the city’s being better connected. As big new resorts have brought exciting restaurants with them, and local restaurants continue to make their beloved traditional foods, it’s no wonder 2018 was Macau’s inaugural year as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, and next March Asia’s 50 Best Awards gala returns to Cotai—all of which make…

Mixology, music and vino. Enjoy the best sundowners at Goa Nights (goanights.com)—their menu of eclectic cocktails features a mix of spices and flavors inspired by the Portuguese voyage East in the 15th century. Happy-hour gin-and-tonics at The Ritz Carlton Bar & Lounge (ritzcarlton.com) with a background of live Bossanova music is a favorite social habit with the local expats. Duck into the cozy Portuguese wine bar-slash-lounge MacauSoul (macausoul.com), which carries more than 100 different labels from Portuguese wine producers, just a stone’s throw away from UNESCO site St. Paul’s Ruins.…

MIGUEL DE SENNA FERNANDES LAWYER AND PLAYWRIGHT; PRESIDENT OF THE MACANESE ASSOCIATION Every year for the last 25 years, I write and produce a Patua play for the Macau Arts Festival in May as an ongoing effort to preserve Patua, our Macanese dialect. The Macau History Museum and Maritime Museum are comprehensive places to get local history. The Civic and Municipal Bureau showcases artifacts dating to the 14th century. The best spot to capture Macau is behind the Ruins of St. Paul by the 15th century Na Tcha Temple, where you get an amazing view of old and new, with Grand Lisboa in the skyline. Taipa Village is fantastic for colonial Portuguese architecture and shophouses. REBECCA GLADE PRESIDENT OF THE INTERNATIONAL LADIES CLUB MACAO What many don’t know is the…

THIS MONTH ON TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM VISIT THIS UN SPOILED THAI ISLAND BEFORE WORD GETS OUT Unmarred by mass tourism, Koh Mook in Thailand’s south offers stunning scenery and a laid-back vibe. SIX SENSES LAUNCHED IN SINGAPORE AND IT IS A STUNNER The luxury brand best known for wellness-focused resorts in remote locales is bringing the same ethos to the city. THIS INDONESIAN ECO-RESORT IS A GAME-CHANGER Take a green getaway to Bawah, an all-inclusive private-island resort 90 minutes from Singapore. DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS Available on iOS, Android, Win 8 and Zinio Desktop Reader. FOLLOW US TWITTER.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA FACEBOOK.COM/TRAVELLEISUREASIA PINTEREST.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA INSTAGRAM.COM/TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA KEEP UP WITH US Sign up for our newsletter for monthly highlights and offers from T+L Southeast Asia. TANDL.ASIA/NEWSLETTER CONTACT US TLEDITOR@MEDIATRANSASIA.COM…

“This effervescent and cosmopolitan city is filled with vibrant beauty and diversity,” says Anders Dimblad, General Manager of Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur and the new Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur, which has just made its stunning debut in the heart of the Malaysian capital he praises so eloquently. Above award-winning shopping centre Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, this shimmering hotel oasis lets the city’s energy and beauty in, while wrapping you in a plush cocoon of contemporary calm. Impeccable service and unrivalled experiences round out the Banyan Tree imprimatur. The hotel is poised to become Kuala Lumpur’s next it drinking and dining destination with Ebisu, a restaurant and bar space featuring an array of Japanese cuisine with a twist, and Whisky Cove, the place to unwind with a wide selection of whiskies and…

Savage Talented young chef Josh Boutwood has a preference for grilling and roasting, and dishes here are layered with flavor: deviled eggs with smoked salt, or grilled tuna jaw with yeast and miso. The smoky depth is balanced by his penchant for pickling and zingy sauces. Set in a simple but festive space, it’s great for groups, but for a more formal experience, try his omakase-style 10-seater next door, Helm. fb.com/savagemnl; mains from P490. Stvdio Lab Chef Chele Gonzalez is back with a distinct mission—to highlight underrated Filipino ingredients and take them to a global standard. The 12-seater space adjacent to his newly re-opened Gallery by Chele, is contemporary and airy but rooted in nature with warm wood and cool stone. Meals are paired with wines picked by sommelier Pierre…

EAT + DRINK Esora Hidden along a row of period shophouses on Mohamed Sultan Road, Esora is a meditative culinary experience. Taking his cue from Japanese kappo cooking, head chef Shigeru Koizumi calmly channels his obsession with micro-seasonal ingredients such as white maitake mushrooms, conger eel, aged akazu vinegar and Hokkaido corn. The dishes are as beautifully austere as the interiors designed by local studio Takenouchi Webb with blonde timber, washi paper, and diffused light. restaurantesora.com; dinner menu S$188. The MO Bar With the opening of the soigné MO Bar, the Mandarin Oriental has finally closed the gap in its otherwise formidable resumé. Lined with thick tapestries and tessellated metal panels inspired by Polynesian tattoos, the bar is at its best at night when the skyscrapers along Marina Bay are…

Yes, this is Cambodia. This sparkling private-island paradise is the new home to Six Senses Krabey Island (sixsenses.com; doubles from US$715), which opened this month. Located just five kilometers off Ream National Park in southern Cambodia, the forest-immersed resort houses 40 freestanding private villas, each with their own infinity plunge pools and rain showers. Coastal boardwalks connect the villas to two produce-driven Khmer and Southeast Asian restaurants, as well as a sunset bar and an ice-cream parlor. And once you’ve tired from all the snorkeling, fishing, cooking classes, stargazing and pool-lazing you can handle, the Six Senses Spa has rejuvenation programs inspired by the sacred Khmer Kbal Spean River, and features crystal water baths and a meditation cave. Sustainability efforts ensure a minimal footprint is left on the untouched haven,…

SUPERSAVER Pavilion Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Opened above the Pavilion shopping mall, this new hotel’s special launch package includes daily breakfast; 15 percent off dinner at The Courtyard; 30 percent off full body massages; 15 percent off treatment packages at Banyan Tree Spa; and 15 percent off Banyan Tree Essentials products. The Deal Opening Celebration package: a night in a City Oasis King room, from RM498, through March 31. banyantree.com. CULTURE CAMBODIA The Aviary Hotel Learn about Khmer traditions while staying in boutique luxury at The Aviary Hotel in Siem Reap. This 25-room hotel is offering a cultural package for two, including a visit to Theam’s House, a three-in-one house, atelier and gallery; two tickets to Phare, the Cambodian circus and social enterprise; entry to APOPO Visitor Centre, to learn about…

GETTING THERE Fly into Manila or Cebu, then catch a regular PAL Express (philippineairlines.com) or CebGo (cebupacificair.com) connection to General Luna; SkyJet (flyskyjetair.com) runs flights between Manila and General Luna five days a week. Rainy season starts in January; typhoon season is February and March. The best surfing is September to November. STAY Nay Palad Hideaway The top accommodation in Siargao is the playful, relaxed epitome of rustic-chic barefoot luxury. There are just nine one- and two-bedroom villas with fun touches like rocking horses and porchswings, plus one brand-new threebedroom villa that features a pool, a projection screen in the kids’ room and its own firepit. Rates are all-inclusive of food, beverages, spa treatments, use of the resort’s private boats, various excursions including island-hopping and surfing lessons, activities such as yoga and watersports,…

GETTING THERE There are daily nonstop flights to Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka, Nagoya and Sapporo from Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore and Taipei on multiple airlines. Driving in Japan’s ski areas is difficult; you'll need a Japanese-translated driver’s license and the ability to control a car on steep roads in deep snow. It’s hard to beat the JR Rail Pass (japanrailpass.net; seven-day pass US$258 when bought in Japan until March 2019) for convenience. HOTELS You might consider selecting your destinations based on dream accommodations. Below are just a few of the newest and best mountainview resorts. NAGANO PREFECTURE Tobira Onsen Myojinkan, a historic 1931 property, is a 44-room Relais & Châteaux ryokan with onsen over Yatsugatake Chushin Kogen Quasi-National Park. relais chateaux.com; from US$450. TOHOKU REGION Ginzan Onsen Fujiya is an ultra-contemporary ryokan…

I DID NOT EXPECT TO FA LL FOR FLORENCE WHILE EAT ING A JAPANESE DUMPLING. Like most first-time visitors to the storied Italian city, I’d arrived with the itchy fervor of a museum-goer, believing transcendence would be delivered by seeing in person all the Renaissance glory I’d encountered in photographs. Michelangelo’s David. Brunelleschi’s Duomo. Botticelli’s Primavera. The Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Pitti. I spent my first 48 hours in a manic whirl, pinballing through the terra-cotta maze in the hot May sun, working through the requisite to-do list with surgical efficiency. Yet in this blister-inducing gorge on Medici-era splendor, I couldn’t shake the sense that I’d made the very mistake I’d vowed to avoid: seeing plenty but savoring little, skimming the city’s surface at the expense of understanding its soul.…

In the south, Coloane Island has a couple of nature trails for those wanting to do a spot of hiking. + Check out the latest Art Space (taipavillagemacau.com) in Taipa Village for contemporary exhibitions. + Or get your fortune told at the UNESCO World Heritage site A-Ma Temple (São Lourenço, Barra) built in 1488. + Take a dive down the world’s tallest man-made bungee jumping site at the Macau Tower (macautower.com.mo) then stroll over to the Macao Science Centre (msc.org.mo) designed by architect I.M. Pei to watch the sunset over the Macau Peninsula. + If you’re a selfie fanatic, the Guia Lighthouse (accessible by foot or cable car) is a wonderful quiet spot with a colonial vibe for ample photo opportunities. One just might think you were in Portugal.…

A timeless experience in the heart of Laos’ cherished cultural centre, 3 Nagas Luang Prabang promises a journey through history. Surrounded by lush, wooded hills at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers, the hotel embodies a touch of mythological lure, with ‘nagas’ being fabled serpent spirits protecting the ancient town. The property’s elegant beauty is enhanced with exotic wood flooring, traditional ‘torchis’ walls and clay roof tiles. Its three refurbished homes, each over 100 years old, mark the bygone colonial era of Luang Prabang, blending vintage French architecture and classic Lao design. The Lamache House, shaded by mango trees, and the Khamboua House offer just 12 Deluxe Rooms and 3 Executive Suites, each well-appointed and complimented by a private terrace or balcony with postcard-perfect views. Located on…

1 Adam H. Graham WRITER “Winter, Winter Everywhere” Page 86 Graham, who usually skis at charming Swiss resort Leinzerheide, a Roger Federer favorite, explores Japan’s slopes beyond Niseko. One way snow culture here differs from in the West: “the skiers shred the catwalks, while the blue trails are peppered with cautious new snowboarders.” His post-ski soak is a favorite indulgence. “The bare bones, open-air Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen on the island of Yakushima, which inspired anime classic Princess Mononoke, is in the ocean in a makeshift rockpool, with crashing waves in reach, and only accessibly for two hours at low tide. #OnlyInJapan.” Instagram: @adamgraham. 2 Lindy Alexander WRITER “A Home Among the Gum Trees” Page 33 In South Yarra, “a little oasis of green next to Melbourne with great shopping and…

1 Java, Indonesia 2 Bali, Indonesia 3 Lombok, Indonesia 4 Maldives 5 Waiheke Island, New Zealand 6 Palawan, Philippines 7 Mauritius 8 Cebu, Philippines 9 Paros, Greece 10 Tasmania, Australia…

SHANGHAI LUXURIOUS NODS TO THE CITY’S HISTORY AND TRADITIONS WERE THE RUNNING THEME IN THIS YEAR’S HIGH-END HOTEL BLOOM IN THE PEARL OF THE ORIENT. + Opened in September, the latest project by American visionary and pioneer of boutique hotels Ian Schrager artfully fuses old-world grandeur with luxurious modernity at Edition Shanghai (editionhotels.com; doubles from RMB2,018). The Art Deco building is home to 145 guest rooms, each fitted with custom designed furniture, Anichini bed linens and thoughtfully curated textiles. The hotel boasts nine dining outlets and lounge bars, including two on the rooftop, offering some of the best panoramic views of Pudong’s futuristic skyline. + Located in the heart of busy Nanjing Road, the Sukhothai Shanghai (sukhothai.com; doubles from RMB2,080) is an urban oasis. The rooms are cozy and contemporary with custom…

EAT + DRINK Bao Wow, Hanoi First piloted as a pop-up at festivals and markets around Hanoi, Bao Wow is prospering at its permanent new digs on up-and-coming Dang Thai Mai near the city’s West Lake. The venue, which is overseen by chef Phan Nhu Long and his partner and co-owner Katie Taylor, specializes in delicious Taiwanese-style baos. While inspiration comes from Taipei, the menu brings fusion concoctions, like the pulled-pork bao with Asian slaw, house pickles and peanuts, and ingredients sourced from North Vietnam. fb.com/baowowhanoi; bao from VND40,000. Union Jacks, Saigon Delivering all the hits from a typical British fish and chip shop, plus quite a bit more, their battered fish, beef and ale stew, and bangers and mash are present and correct. They even cater to homesick Scots…

EAT Sorn Fine Southern Cuisine, Bangkok One of the hardest tables to snag right now is Sorn, a spicy, smoky, layered trip through the Thai south. Each dish has a story, like the Kobe-soft skewers made of dry-aged beef from six-year-old cows that’s marinated in milk and grilled in a date-curry sauce. You begin with a parade of small plates, but the climax is a table full of shared dishes—curries, grilled meat, soup and seafoods—offering the double benefit of re-grounding you in Thailand and allowing your party to take a breather from the wait staff and discuss what you actually think about the meal. Then sit back and look at each other in appreciative awe. instagram.com/sornfinesouthern; tasting menu Bt2,700. Saawaan, Bangkok Rice paddy crabs are super cute. But chef Aom…

In the middle of the East Sumatran island of Belitung are snow-white mounds surrounding a clear blue lake in the middle of nowhere. But don’t think these are tropical glaciers, Danau Kaolin is actually a kaolin mine that has been filled with water to become a gorgeous artificial lake. It is one of many spectacular sites on the sunkissed Indonesian island, which is now more quickly accessible for relaxing weekend getaways with the opening of the new H.A.S Hanandjoedin International Airport in Belitung’s district capital of Tanjung Pandan. Known for its tin mining history, Belitung shot to even greater fame as the setting of native writer Andrea Hirata’s 2005 debut novel Laskar Pelangi (The Rainbow Troops), a heartwarming tale, later made into a musical and a television series, of how…

The Marina City towers, as seen from the Riverwalk, a pedestrian pathway along the Chicago River. NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDE Fulton Market Chicago’s former meatpacking district has seen a boom in development over the past few years, from restaurants by some of the city’s top chefs to headquarters for McDonald’s and Google. New hotels from the Hoxton and Nobu brands are due to arrive next year. SOHO HOUSE The opening of this private club in a historic warehouse in 2014 played a crucial role in Fulton Market’s transformation. Its 40 handsome guest rooms are open to nonmembers; hotel guests have access to facilities including three restaurants, an extensive gym (complete with boxing ring), and an 18-meter rooftop pool. sohohousechicago.com; doubles from US$300. ABA Chef C. J. Jacobson’s Mediterranean restaurant has a 370-square-meter…

GETTING THERE AND AROUND There are no direct flights from Southeast Asia to Florence, but multiple carriers offer connections from European hubs, including Paris and Zurich. Though taxi stands abound, one of the pleasures of Florence is that you can get just about everywhere on foot. LODGING Staying at the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze (fourseasons.com; doubles from €875) was one of the highlights of my trip. Occupying a 15th-century palazzo, the hotel was a lavish, private oasis after a day spent exploring the city. The properties operated by the Lungarno Collection offer a more modern take on luxury. The coolly minimal Gallery Hotel Art (lungarno collection.com; doubles from €300) is profusely decorated with contemporary sculpture and photography, while the Continentale (lungarnocollection.com; doubles from €325) channels mid-20th-century Italian design. EAT & DRINK After years…