Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2018 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

THIS MONTH ON TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM WHERE TO DINE IN JAVA As compelling as Bali’s culinary scene is, this other Indonesian island is giving its chefs a run for their money. Plus: must-eat street foods across Southeast Asia. NEW CRAFT COCKTAIL MENUS INSPIRED BY ASIAN CULTURE Mixologists across the region are putting a distinctly local spin on some exceptionally creative tipples. A GOURMAND’S JOURNEY THROUGH KERALA After millennia as a cultural melting pot, the southwestern Indian state has become a fertile ground for gastronomy. LOOKOUT A new luxury hotel lands in Luang Prabang; a formerly sleepy suburb of Saigon heats up; new suites at a lodge in Tasmania offer full nature-immersion; an unspoiled corner of Borneo begs to be explored; the latest travel deals, and more. travelandleisureasia.com DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS…

FEW COUNTRIES IN Asia come with as much baggage as Vietnam, and yet few are as alluring. As part of this month’s Photography Issue, we asked Aaron Joel Santos for a portfolio that depicts the country from top to bottom: its vivid colors and unimaginably beautiful settings, people and food. As with any good travel story, the result, “North to South” (page 94), should inspire you to visit the country, every corner of it. Vietnam is changing fast. Of course, a camera is a great introduction to any destination. So, we asked a few of our photographers for their insider tips when it comes to seeing your journeys through a lens or on a LCD screen (“Raise Your Travel Photo Game,” page 71). Bangkok-based Leigh Griffiths summed up his approach,…

BEHIND THE WHEEL of a silver Lexus LS 500, zipping through the vineyards of Napa on a brisk autumn afternoon is one of those moments when travel is truly exhilarating. You feel like the king of the road, with Lexus LS standing out with it’s elaborate mesh signature grill of no less than 5,032 individual grid facets—something so intricate that it took months from conception to production—a perfect representation of Lexus’ bold aesthetics combined with sophisticated craftsmanship. Inside, the Lexus’ attention to detail becomes more evident in the ornamentation: from hand-folded origami-inspired pleats that adorn the door to the thinly sliced veneered wood panels that are unique to each vehicle, enveloping all the senses in luxury. Seated in this sedan, the winding Napa roads offer a great backdrop for a…

CRETE Petros G. Zissimos, a member of the A-List, T+L’s collection of the world’s top travel advisors, crafts Greek vacations with his 46-year-old, family-run company Hellenic Holidays. Zissimos can help plan walking itineraries through Crete, including tours that take in its famous Samaria Gorge—a breathtaking canyon in one of the country’s largest national parks. hellenicholidays.com; 10-day trips from €2,063 per person. PELION PENINSULA Arguably the most underrated area of Greece, especially for nature lovers, this mainland peninsula north of Athens is where the Pilio Mountains meet the crystal-clear Aegean Sea. Book a self-guided walking tour with Macs Adventure to wander through ancient villages, combining stays at luxurious hotels with smaller heritage inns. macsadventure.com; eight-day trips from €624. SANTORINI Santorini may be best known for its iconic, Instagram-friendly caldera and whitewashed…

Phone accessory EVO SP-PRO GEN2 A handheld stabilizing tool that can pivot, this gimbal works with both Android devices and iPhones and can go up to 14 hours without being recharged. Its handle has a scroll wheel and menu buttons that offer controlled zoom and focus—useful for taking scenic shots mid-hike on Lantau Peak. evogimbals.com; $249. Entry-level OLYMPUS TOUGH TG-5 Water-, ice- and dustproof, this sturdy model lets you focus on enjoying dune bashing in Dubai without worrying about errant dust particles that might scratch the lens. Its new 4K movie capabilities record vivid details in ultra-high-definition video, even while you’re navigating rapids or snorkeling with schools of fish. getolympus.com; from $520. 360-degree RICOH THETA V The four-channel microphone in the latest iteration of this three-dimensional camera picks up omni-directional…

SYDNEY WAS LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT FOR ME. VISITING A QUARTER-CENTURY AGO, AS A YOUNG REPORTER based in Hong Kong, I bounded off the plane, reveled in the clear air and blue skies, kneeled down, and kissed the tarmac. Admittedly, there had been many on-board drinks. Still, excitement had been building from takeoff: like-minded people speaking boisterously, spinning yarns, wearing shorts and loud shirts. I’d felt that I’d finally found my tribe. I quickly obtained immigration papers—which went unfiled, since, like in most torrid love affairs, the spell eventually broke. And, like so many plunges of passion, the end came in the sack. Sydney claimed stately architecture, wonderful parks, wholesome food, and harbor views captivating even a native San Franciscan residing in Hong Kong. But, sorry Sydney, your hotel scene…

1 Cathy Adams WRITER “Grazing Guangzhou” Page 30 “In Guangzhou, Cantonese food is still very traditional, with soups and TCM elements in every meal,” says Adams, who lived in Hong Kong. Now that Guangzhou has a Michelin Guide, the upscale places are getting more global recognition: “they have better service, English menus, more salubrious options (i.e. no suspicious-looking meat), plus they usually come with a swaggering view. Drawbacks compared with more local places, though, are they don’t have as lively an atmosphere, and cost 10 times the price.” Three must-eats in the port city? “Dim sum, char siu, and a bun with lotus-seed paste.” Instagram: @cathyradams. 2 Aaron Joel Santos PHOTOGRAPHER “North to South” Page 94 “I lived in Vietnam for seven years, and I wouldn’t even know how to…

ON THE 71ST FLOOR of the Four Seasons Guangzhou, I’m being poured Longjing tea at the hotel’s modern Cantonese eatery, Yu Yue Heen (fourseasons.com; mains from RMB150; doubles from RMB2,000). In this restaurant, now embellished with one Michelin star, even a simple cup of tea turns into an artful gong-fu ceremony. On a tableside trolley, the tea leaves are strained, and the steaming liquid carefully decanted into a miniature cup. This black lacquer– and red glass–accented fine-dining haven overlooks the glassy towers and pastel housing blocks of Guangzhou’s urban sprawl. It’s the ultimate contrast: the old and the new, the high and the low, the local and the international—a good analogy for Guangzhou’s food scene. There’s a well-known saying in China: “Be born in Suzhou, live in Hangzhou, eat in Guangzhou,…

ONE OF MY FAVORITE places to shop is Ponsonby, a neighborhood with plenty of boutiques and concept stores. Muse (264 Ponsonby Rd.; 64-9/378- 8850) is a multi-brand shop from owner Olivia Vincent. She stocks international labels like Stella McCartney along with local names like Georgia Alice, who is known for her impeccably cut, easy-to-wear designs. From there, I’ll pop in to the flagship of Harman Grubiša (harmangrubisa.com), a New Zealand brand that specializes in minimalist silhouettes with feminine details. Nearby concept store The Shelter (theshelteronline.com) holds a special place in my heart, as it was the first to carry my line. I’ll browse the racks of new and established labels like Wynn Hamlyn and MM6 Maison Margiela, then grab a juice at its café. If I want to treat myself, I’ll pick up…

GETTING THERE Andros has no airport and is accessible only by boat. Fly in to Athens and take a quick taxi to Rafina Port, where passenger lines like Golden Star Ferries (goldenstarferries.gr; one-way tickets €13.50) depart for Andros multiple times each day between April and October, and once daily year-round. The trip takes around two hours. WALKING ON ANDROS The trails restored by Andros Routes (androsroutes.gr) are open to the public, free of charge. If you’d like some guidance on your journey, the adventure experts at Butterfield & Robinson (butterfield.com; eight-day trips from €8,492 per person) can curate a guided tour of Andros, part of a larger walking itinerary where you’ll island-hop the Cyclades on a private yacht. The inaugural Andros on Foot Festival (androsonfootfestival.gr) launched last month, where villagers…

THERE ARE DAYS WHEN LIFE makes you feel as though you’ve been poured into a blender and whizzed into a froth of nervous exhaustion. As a resident of New York City, I find this happens to me with disconcerting frequency. But when it does, I have a solution: hightail it 300 kilometers northwest, to the Finger Lakes. A patchwork of vineyards, apple orchards, hiking trails and small, thriving towns, this bucolic region of New York State takes its name from 11 narrow glacial lakes between the cities of Rochester and Syracuse that run north to south, like the fingers of an extremely unusual hand. The five largest lakes, where you’ll spend most of your time in the region, are Seneca, Cayuga, Skaneateles, Canandaigua and Keuka. They are quite deep (almost…

1 ZIMBABWE In untrammeled Gonarezhou National Park in southeastern Zimbabwe, respected guide Ant Kaschula offers an experience that combines wildlife viewing with guided walks. Small, exclusive-use camps are run mainly during the dry season (April to November) for a maximum of 10 guests. The solar-lit Meru-style tents each have a bucket shower and a composting toilet. gonarezhou-bushcamps.com; from US$690 per person, all-inclusive. 2 TANZANIA Legendary Expeditions sets up mobile camps in the path of vast herds of wildebeests migrating through the Serengeti Plain. The tents, each of which has an en suite bathroom, are moved around the park according to breeding and weather patterns. Individual tents are available to book; groups of six or more are allocated the entire camp on an exclusive-use basis. The camps close May 1–15. legendaryexpeditions.com;…

*Prices listed are in U.S. dollars for ease of comparison.…

Entry-level NIKON COOLPIX A900 Blurry, nondescript images—Is that tomato soup? Panna cotta?—often stem from shaky hands and dim lighting. This compact choice combats both problems with vibration-reduction technology. Built-in Wi-Fi also makes the affordable model a solid pick for social media power users: they can send pics straight to their smartphones without a cord. nikon.com; from $509. Mid-tier CANON EOS REBEL T7I This next-level interchangeable-lens DSLR camera has a nine-point autofocus system—great for creating sharp, vivid photos of a heaping twirl of chilli oil-laced noodles or the shining scales of a slippery black marlin caught during a fishing trip in the Maldives. canon.com; body from $749, EF-S 18–55 mm from lens kit $899. Investment CANON EOS 5D MARK IV The pro-level pick offers superb image quality with 30.4mp, guaranteeing that…

SUPERSAVER Amari Residences Bangkok, Thailand Book ahead and save up to 20 percent at this central Bangkok hotel and serviced residence. Just book seven days in advance to receive 10 percent off, and 30 days ahead for 20 percent off. This is a home away from home for travelers needing a longer stay: Amari offers studios, one-, two- and three-bedroom units. The Deal Advance Purchase Offer: a night in a studio, from Bt2,500, through December 31, 2019. amari.com. BEACH CAMBODIA Alila Villas Koh Russey Alila’s Cambodia debut opened on the intimate isle of Koh Russey this month with a special package for its very first guests. Book a minimum of three nights and the third will be free, plus, you’ll get daily breakfast; return Sihanoukville International Airport transfers; 30-minute foot…

Can airplane food ever shake its bad rep? Thai Airways has announced that Jay Fai, Bangkok’s only Michelin-starred street-food stall, will curate a menu for first-class passengers that emphasizes fresh, high-quality ingredients. Airlines have long been trying to step up the tin-foil mystery meats to more fine-dining fare—Qantas celebrated its 20th year of collaboration with acclaimed Aussie chef Neil Perry last year—but can an in-flight meal ever really be on par to one from a restaurant kitchen? Here are a few Asia-Pacific airline plates we think make a strong case for the positive. China Southern Passengers on flights from Guangzhou can choose from a traditional Lingnan menu, with options including a deluxe beef-shank noodle soup and a Cantonese clay-pot rice with preserved meat and Chinese sausage. Singapore Airlines This award-winning…

CHOCOLATE CONCIERGE Crafted from single-origin cacao beans grown in the Malaysian highlands, the chocolate by this Kuala Lumpur–based chocolatier is proudly “tree-to-bar.” “Malaysian cacao is unlike any other in the world,” says founder Ning-Geng Ong, who credits his sustainable and traceable beans for his Cocoa of Excellence award won at the Salon du Chocolat in Paris last year. The country’s mix of tropical and highland climate is perfect for growing cacao, and when Dutch colonists introduced the trees here in the 18th century, production took off. Although Malaysia remains one the world’s top exporters of raw cacao, few farmers pay attention to fermentation and roasting practices, which are critical for coaxing nuances of terroir in bean-to-bar chocolate, something Ong learned through his studies in the U.S. Sourcing premium local cacao…

CHINA Viking’s 15-day Far East Discovery voyage on the 930-passenger Viking Orion gives you plenty of time to tour and shop in China’s greatest cities, including Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong. In lesser-known Qingdao, you can visit the former Governor’s Residence and the Qingdao Beer Museum, on the site of the original Tsingtao Brewery, which was founded by German colonists in 1903. vikingcruises.com; from US$4,799 per person. INDIA In December, Pandaw Expeditions will debut weeklong Lower Ganges river voyages on the Orient Pandaw, sailing from Kolkata to Farraka (and vice versa) through the heart of West Bengal. Experiences along the way include colonial-heritage tours in Chandannagar, ruled by the French until 1950; visiting the brass works in the village of Matiari; and taking in the famed terra-cotta temples of Baranagar.…

MY POCKETS WERE BULGING with walnuts, wild pistachios and mulberries, and I’d been gorging on figs and blackberries. Yet I couldn’t resist picking a couple of low-hanging pomegranates, so ripe they had split, oozing translucent, ruby-red juice and glistening seeds. My husband, Nicolas, and I were on the final day of a hiking tour of the Greek island of Andros, and were going to need sustenance for the afternoon ahead. It was 2 p.m. when we began winding our way down from Vourkoti, a mountain village wrapped in vaporous cloud, via a stone path. As we finished the pomegranates, we could just make out our destination, Achla—a slice of cobalt sea twinkling away on the horizon. We would need to be at the coast in or around six if we…

Entry-level CANON POWERSHOT SX730 Ideal for casual photographers, this sleek point-and-shoot has an adjustable screen that pivots up to 180 degrees, making it easier to take close-ups. But a powerful optical 40x zoom framing assist means it’s just as easy to nab faraway shots. Self-portrait and smooth-skin modes adjust hues and brightness levels to save you editing time. canon.com; from $399. Mid-tier FUJIFILM X-T2 The latest update to this top mirrorless option includes face-detection technology, ensuring that any humans or animals in your image are automatically in focus, properly exposed, and white-balanced—and that you don’t miss textural details like fur and eyelashes. A max ISO of 51,200 improves your chances of obtaining a great shot in low-light situations. A bonus: the design is dust- and water-resistant and can withstand temperatures…

Entry-level NIKON COOLPIX W300 If you’ve ever been mesmerized by one of those vibrant 24-hours-in-30-seconds landscape videos, you’ll quickly latch on to this durable pocket-size camera’s 4K ultra-HD capabilities and intuitive time-lapse setting. Its GPS includes a mapping feature called Points of Interest that suggests landmark photo ops, including scenic lookouts near you, and can tag even remote locations with precision. nikon.com; from $504. Smartphone GOOGLE PIXEL 2 The Internet giant’s Pixel revamp arrived with great fanfare thanks to its camera, which many critics deemed the new best-in-class. If you’re trying to nail exceptional details in dark situations—such as the stained-glass windows of a Gothic chapel—the phone’s widened f/1.8 aperture and Hdr+ algorithm will give you an advantage. store.google.com; from $649. Mid-tier SONY RX100 III The key feature of this…