Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2018 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

1 Connla Stokes WRITER “Cross the Bridge” Page 38 Since his initial trip to the Saigon suburb 11 years ago, Stokes was inspired by how the district has matured. “I love how Thao Dien has become a much more diverse neighborhood in such a short space of time with people of all ages and nationalities now hanging out together in a host of eclectic spaces.” Despite new spots continually emerging, Stokes says the recent expansion of Soma Art Café is a game-changer: “They can now accommodate live music shows and various dance events in the evening. And from what I’ve heard there’s much more to come.” Instagram: connla_stokes_saigon. 2 Morgan Ommer PHOTOGRAPHER “Cross the Bridge” Page 38 The Saigon-based photographer first visited Thao Dien with his grandmother in 1975. “She…

IT’S STORMING WHEN I ARRIVE at Wat Phanom at 5:30 a.m. to begin tak bat, the Buddhist tradition of giving morning alms. I join a huddle of locals taking refuge in the small temple six kilometers from the center of Luang Prabang with my guide Sommay, a former monk and now the excursion manager of the city’s new Rosewood hotel. He pushes a woven basket of hot sticky rice into my hands, and we kneel on the floor as a stream of saffron-robed monks shuffle through the pavilion. So begins the daily merit-making process, pawing out fistfuls of the steaming rice to the procession of monks for their breakfast. I’m the only foreigner here, but the congregation hardly notices. In this well-trod tourist town it feels good to be invisible.…

MARINA ABRAMOVIC Yugoslavia Expect more groundbreaking interactive art from this 71-year-old performance artist, who caught fame for her engaging Rhythm series in the 1970s. Her more recent MoMA retrospective included the 700-hour The Artist Is Present piece, where museum visitors were invited to sit facing Abramović and engage in silent interaction with her. YAYOI KUSAMA Japan Famous for her kaleidoscopic polka-dot graphics, Japanese Pop-art icon Yayoi Kusama will be bringing her much-photographed pumpkin sculptures to the BAB, exhibiting outside Central World and Siam Paragon. “Unlike her other pumpkins, these are luminous; they will be continuously glowing,” Poshyananda says. ELMGREEN & DRAGSET Denmark & Norway This Berlin-based pair create dramatic installations: in 2005’s Prada Marfa they built a Prada store in the middle of the Texan desert to reflect capitalism; and…

TRUDGING UPWARDS INTO A COLD, gray drizzle, I was trying to recall why my wife and I had decided to spend our Christmas vacation climbing a Chinese mountain in the middle of winter. Instead of a hot strip of sand somewhere in the tropics, we had chosen the peaks of Huangshan National Park, where visibility was registering zero and our soggy packs were feeling heavier by the minute. Sticking my frozen hands into my pockets for warmth, I vaguely recollected the scenes that had lured us here: otherworldly jagged pinnacles draped in ice and snow, and gnarled solitary trees perched on precipices, with clouds swirling around them like scenes from old Chinese ink paintings. But at the moment, all I could see was my condensed icy breath, funneling out of…

WITHIN MINUTES OF LANDING ON MALTA, I was trying to decide what the place reminded me of. Now, I love Morocco, particularly the Atlantic coast, with its eminently photogenic blue fishermen’s boats. And I really love Sicily, for its wheat-colored landscapes, the cultural palimpsest of its cuisine and pretty much everything else. This tiny archipelago nation—which lies some 95 kilometers south of Sicily and roughly on a latitude with Tangier—feels like a glorious mash-up of those two places. The swaths of prickly pears running riot across the interior put me in mind of the coast near Agadir, and the ornate elegance of the grand palazzo façades had me recalling Catania. But Malta is also entirely, ineluctably its own culture, ambience and people. The preponderance of package tourists notwithstanding, it’s surprising…

700,000 Heures (700000heures.com) is a membership club that gives access to a series of experience-rich trips curated by hotel impresario Thierry Teyssier. Guests will be lodged in private accommodations around the world, from mansions to houseboats. The Puglia, Italy, project, which ran September–October 2018, is based at a single property; others, like Cambodia (November 2018–April 2019), will encompass two or more accommodations. Membership in Teyssier’s club is available on the website, or guests can book via one of 50 travel agents, including T+L A-List members Local Foreigner (localforeigner.com) and Matueté (matuete.com). You don’t need to join 700,000 Heures if you book through an agent, as they pay a fee that gives all their clients membership privileges. There are four levels of membership, each named after a nomadic tribe. Most members will…

GETTING THERE The best time to visit Yangshuo is from March to December. Cathay Pacific and Cathay Dragon (both at cathaypacific.com) fly from Hong Kong to Guilin non-stop. Air Asia (airasia.com) flies from Kuala Lumpur to Guilin non-stop. China Southern (csair.com) flies from Bangkok to Guilin via Nanning. Seventy-two-hour transit visas are available on arrival for certain passport holders with restrictions, otherwise visas must be secured in advance. www.iatatravelcentre.com. Hotels can offer private car transfers from Guilin to Yangshuo or Longsheng for approximately RMB300 to RMB900 each way. They can also organize day trips to Longsheng from Yangshuo for RMB900 to RMB1,200 round-trip. STAY Banyan Tree Yangshuo Villas and suites here offer mountain and river views. banyantree.com; doubles from RMB3,000. Secret Garden This boutique hotel is set within a restored Qing Dynasty courtyard…

GETTING THERE Most Amazon cruises in Brazil depart from Manaus, in the state of Amazonas. There are several flights per day to Manaus from major cities, including Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, as well as nonstop flights from Miami on the Chilean airline LATAM. TOUR OPERATORS Locally owned charter cruise company Amazônia Expeditions has been navigating the Amazon for 37 years. The team excels at small-group cruises tailored to passengers’ interests, such as botany or fishing. amazoniaexpeditions.com.br; cruises for up to eight people from US$2,350 per group per day. Amazon offerings from conservation-minded tour operator Wildlife Worldwide include group river safaris and bespoke private itineraries that take you to see the region’s animal inhabitants. Tack on a transfer to the biodiverse Pantanal, a wetlands region in southwestern Brazil, for…

Modern Kuala Lumpur, while remaining a blend of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures, also melds the traditional with the modern, nowhere moreso than at Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur. And one of the most satisfying routes to enjoy each of these cultures is through cuisine. That’s where the hotel doubles as a microcosm of the city itself. Executive chef Junious Dickerson says this blending of cultures is most evident at Curate Restaurant. Start with a selection of Malay specialties like Nasi Lemak and Chili Prawns, which will liven up your tastebuds with a flavourful combination that includes coconut milk and sambal. Then why not celebrate the Chinese heritage found throughout the city by building your own noodle bowl, where you choose which ingredients to best suit your own tastes when…

On our watch As travel writers, we are always looking for expressive ways to describe the beautiful resorts, sights and landscapes we encounter on the job. But as new and obscure travel trends continue to emerge, sometimes it’s just easier to make up a new word. While we at T+L tend to avoid the portmanteau buzzwords, here are some we’ve come across that have given us a giggle. Cinetourist “CINEMA + TOURIST” A traveler who visits a destination because their favorite movie or soap was filmed there. We’re looking at you, K-drama addicts. Touron “TOURIST + MORON” We’ve all encountered a few of these on our travels… Nacation “NAKED + VACATION” Heralds the trend of holidaying in the nude. Pack lots of SPF50+. Fakeoff “FAKE + TAKEOFF” When you’re hustled…

no. 1 Astro-tourism is the latest travel trend: here’s why your next trip should be to see the stars. No, we don’t mean a ticket on Elon Musk’s SpaceX, “astro-tourism” is all about appreciating the solar system on solid ground. As light pollution spreads across Asia and blinds our night skies, travelers have been drawn to the region’s darkest pockets to get a glimpse of the most dazzling celestial shows. GREAT BARRIER ISLAND NEW ZEALAND Also known as Aotea, this completely off-grid island a 30-minute flight from Auckland last year was crowned a Dark-Sky Sanctuary: remote land with exceptional quality of starry nights certified by the International Dark-Sky Association. Good Heavens (goodheavens.co.nz; group tours from NZ$90, private tours for 1–4 people from NZ$600) offer stargazing tours of Aotea’s clear skies…

HOTEL Rosewood Luang Prabang The immerisve riverside and waterfall-view rooms and hilltop tents are havens of comfort, culture and creativity. Hotel cars can drive you into town and also pick you up. A massage in the Sense Spa tent is a treat: faceholes in the heated massage beds peer through glass windows in the floor overlooking the rushing river below. rosewoodhotels.com; doubles from US$820. RESTAURANTS AND BARS 525 Snack on a tapas-style menu and sip pro drinks made with craft spirits like gin from Iron Balls in Bangkok or Australia’s Four Pillars, and rum by Laodi in Vientiane. 525cocktailsandtapas.com; drinks from US$7. Elephant Bridge Bar Try classic cocktails with Lao ingredients at Rosewood’s own bar that’s perched on a bridge over the rushing Nahm Dhong River that flows across the…

IN 2007, WHEN I CROSSED the Saigon Bridge into District 2 for the first time, I felt like I was leaving the city for the countryside. I followed a snaking road into a neighborhood called Thao Dien, which, courtesy of the meandering Saigon River, and its mellow, tropical ambience, felt utterly removed from the rest of the metropolis. It suited the expat families in the area just fine, especially those ensconced in large villas with lush gardens and pools. But devoid of history and cultural attractions, and far from downtown’s charismatic street life and rooftop bars, tourists had no reason to visit. Five years later, when I moved to Saigon from Hanoi, Thao Dien had further blossomed into a full-blown expat enclave with a multitude of family-friendly restaurants, bakeries, gourmet…

GETTING THERE Huangshan Tunxi Airport is 65 kilometers south of the mountain, and has flights from Taipei, Seoul, and domestic cities including Beijing, Shanghai and Guilin. If you don’t want to walk up the mountain, a cablecar ride is RMB80. STAY Hotels on the mountain are overpriced but the only option if you want to see sunrise and sunset. The Beihai (beihaihotelhuangshan.com; doubles from RMB1,000) and Xihai (xihaihotelhuangshan.com; doubles from RMB1,000) offer the most comforts. If sunrise views aren’t a priority, Banyan Tree Huangshan (banyantree.com; doubles from RMB3,500) has elegant modern-meets-traditional villas and suites nestled in the mountains about 30 minutes away from the national park. The Crowne Plaza Huangshan Yuchen (ihg.com; doubles from RMB650) is the best high-end option in Huangshan City. EAT The hotels on the mountain serve pretty…

IT’S EASY TO DISMISS Philadelphia as a place forever languishing in New York City’s shadow. But when it comes to food, Philly is actually one of the more exciting destinations in the country right now. The city’s lower prices and young, scrappy energy have given chefs and restaurateurs free rein to experiment, allowing them to reinvent its classic cuisine and add influences from around the globe. Despite the Eagles defeating the Patriots in February’s Super Bowl, Philadelphia will always be proud of its underdog spirit. It’s a place where servers befriend you, and strangers in bars talk you into taking shots. It’s not uncommon to see someone break into a dance while making your sandwich. The vibe is more personal and upbeat than that of many U.S. cities—there’s simply more…

SUPERSAVER Shilla Stay Haeundae, South Korea With sweeping ocean views, Shilla Stay Haeundae is just a two-minute walk from the picturesque Haeundae Beach. The hotel’s new “Welcome to Korea” package includes a Busan City Tour Bus Ticket (one-day pass), complimentary breakfast, and a Shilla Stay teddy bear gift. The Deal Welcome to Korea package: a night in a Standard room from W114,000, through December 31. shillastay.com. CITY VIETNAM The Reverie Saigon Feel at home in Vietnam’s biggest city with a stay in The Reverie Saigon’s residential-style suites. Previously only available for a minimum of three nights, the one-bedroom suites have been opened up for shorter stays—enjoy Italian furnishings, premium bedding, marble-lined bathrooms, separate living rooms and fully equipped kitchens. Guests who book a night in a one-bedroom residential-style suite from US$540…

Gentle waves curl ashore, so the surfers kick back. Some lounge under the palm trees, moving as little as a somnolent gecko. A kid splashes around in the shallows, mom an arm’s length away in the slight, silent breeze. Mid-afternoon and the only sounds along the half-kilometer arc of sand at Hiriketiya Bay are lapping turquoise waves and birdsong from blue skies. Idyllic. Yet I’m just as awestruck by what is missing in this corner of paradise: coughing tuk tuks, the stagnant sight of yet another reggae bar, any inkling of mass tourism; in short, there’s no trace of overdeveloped shoreline in this jungle-shrouded pocket of Sri Lanka. Instead, palm trees tilt out over the bay, breaking up solid stretches of sand that embrace visitors at will. It’s all natural…

GETTING THERE Fly to Nice Côte d’Azur airport (NCE) through Paris or other major European hubs. STAY Hôtel Belles Rives This Antibes property is housed in the historic Villa St.-Louis, a favorite haunt for F. Scott Fitzgerald—who wrote Tender Is the Night here. bellesrives.com; doubles from €260. Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc Just because it’s one of the swankiest, best-run hotels in the world doesn’t mean this Antibes institution lacks personality. Not cheap, but totally worth it. oetkercollection.com; doubles from €1,270. Hôtel Les Roches Rouges After a five-star refit, this cliff-side property near St.-Raphaël aims to revive the original aesthetic—and spirit—of the Riviera. The superb Provençal food is another powerful selling point. hotellesrochesrouges.com; doubles from €215. La Colombe d’Or The Roux family has been running this inn in the inland village of St.-Paul…

THIS MONTH ON TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM KOLKATA IS FOR LOVERS OF LITERATURE Three top scribes from the capital of West Bengal show why this culturally rich Indian city is the ultimate destination for bibliophiles. SAILING THE MIGHTY MEKONG DELTA Embark on an epic voyage through the lush heart of southern Vietnam with this five-star cruise that explores the diverse waterways. ISLAND-HOPPING ACROSS PALAWAN IN THE PHILIPPINES The verdant islands off El Nido and Coron remain so pristine you might be tempted to wonder if you’re dreaming. LOOKOUT A stylish new hotel comes to Phnom Penh; find diverse eats and rich heritage in Sabah’s second city, Sandakan; the latest travel deals; and much more. travelandleisureasia.com DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS Available on iOS, Android, Win 8 and Zinio Desktop Reader. FOLLOW US TWITTER.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA…

AS WE STROLLED down a one-lane road, the beach came into sharp focus through a cluster of palm trees. Enshrouded by tropical forest, the horseshoe-shaped Hiriketiya Bay appeared almost as a dream; a secluded corner of Sri Lanka where you could—scrap that—should easily spend a week. This was my fourth visit to serendipity, but my first venture along the south coast of this nation that offers so much. As with other journeys in this month’s issue, yes, mine was a dream trip. There’s an electric vibe in the south of Sri Lanka these days (“Tropical Chill,” page 80), where the surprises come in small pockets and pop like nowhere else in Asia. That urge to visit places more than once strikes us all, the saving grace being that every destination…

My back is drenched with perspiration from hefting my knapsack up a thousand steps through winding paths that lead me to a vista on the edge of magnificence. I’m scaling the Dragon’s Back, known locally as Longji, an undulating landscape of layered rice terraces home to a cluster of minority villages within southwestern Guangxi province. My sore knees berate me for opting out of the sedan ride I was offered at the village gates, but I feel victorious, as if I’ve physically earned this monumental view and decide not to feel guilty for employing an elderly Zhuang minority woman to haul my suitcase in a bamboo panier on her back for a 50-yuan note. A decade ago, she might have been bent over these fields planting rice in the ribbon…

GETTING AROUND Getting to and from the south coast, not to mention from point to point along it, is best planned out well in advance. Hiring a car and driver is the best option, with Kiwitaxi (kiwitaxi.com) being particularly reliable and reasonably priced. STAY Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort With 152 rooms and villas spread across a former coconut plantation, the resort is best for those who simply want to stay put. anantara.com; doubles from US$214. Cape Weligama Perched across a rise above a scenic bay, the immediate vibe is that you’re the only guests here. capeweligama.com; doubles from US$103. Kaju Green The type of getaway you don’t want to leave. Swim, take a yoga class or even book an Ayurvedic consultation. Relax. kajugreen.com; doubles from US$115. Salt House Surfing, yoga,…