Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2017 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

TLWorldsBest.com/intl vote now! For your favorite hotels, resorts, cities, airlines, cruise lines and destinations you love�in the only truly global travel survey that matters. Dear Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia readers We trust you. We trust your judgement. That’s why we want you to rate our global travel experiences for us, in the Travel+Leisure World𔆍s Best Awards, now through March 6, 2017. These awards are recognized as travel’s highest honor, so it’s time to give back to those hotels, resorts, cities, airlines, cruise lines and destinations you love the most. Readers of all global editions of Travel+Leisure will participate in the awards, so this is your chance for Southeast Asia’s voice to be heard. So visit TLWorldsBest.com/intland tell us exactly what you think. The full global results will be published in our…

(“The Gods are in the Details,” page 64) that mentions “the absolute ease in the air” common to India’s southernmost state. I remember it well, from a venture I once made to India’s zero road marker in Kanyakumari at the bottom of the country. It might simply be the first stone of many but there’s a certain allure to being at the tip of India, particularly on a religious holiday when thousands of others have the same idea. Every person there was intent on watching the sunset. The crowd swelled to such a size that I couldn’t tell where the land ended and the Arabian Sea began, yet all was calm and quiet. Glancing the other way, I saw a seated, elderly man staring off towards the Bay of Bengal.…

TALK ABOUT ARRESTING cuisine. Chef Luke Nguyen was hauled off to a jail in Vietnam for a fiery mud-crab dish. Luckily, Nguyen— owner of the famed Red Lantern restaurants in Australia and star of hit TV shows such as Luke Nguyen Vietnam—thrives on chaos and has a knack for wiggling out of sticky situations. During a street-food shoot in Saigon, the chef and his film crew were whisked away by the cops after Nguyen was caught whipping up the offending crab curry at a street vendor’s cart. “The cameras were on, I had all my ingredients, then the authorities came and I didn’t even notice [their arrival],” Nguyen says. At the police station, he explained that they were not hawking their food, which was illegal on that corner, and after…

WA EXPERIENCE KAFU Hosted in the home of a Kyoto family, this cultural center offers an intimate experience of the art form. A teacher explains the history of ikebana and guides students step-bystep as they create their own flower arrangement. 373-26 Horiike-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto; kafu.co/ikebana; 30-minute demonstration classes ¥3,000, 90-minute hands-on classes ¥5,000 per person. SOGETSU IKEBANA This large ikebana school specializes in the more free-form sogetsu style of ikebana. Its group classes give students the chance to critique each other’s arrangements and learn from a rotating panel of ikebana experts who host the workshops. Classes in Tokyo and Osaka; sogetsu.or.jp/e/study/hq; 90-minute beginner workshops are ¥5,000 per person, 150-minute workshops ¥9,150 per person. IKENOBO Japan’s oldest ikebana school offers classes only for more experienced ikebana students or for beginners looking…

MOST TRAVELERS TO AUSTRALIA—first-time ones, at least—follow a fairly prescribed itinerary, what locals refer to as the Rock (Uluru), the Reef (Great Barrier), and the Harbour (Sydney). About a decade ago some started adding Kangaroo Island, off the coast of South Australia, a place of great natural wonders that got noticed thanks to a terrific luxury resort, Southern Ocean Lodge. (The lodge was ranked fourth in the world among hotels in T+L’s World’s Best Awards last year.) Still, few stop to savor much else in this beautiful corner of the continent. They should, especially if they have any interest in wine. If what you think of when you think of Australian wine is the big, high-alcohol Shirazes that dominate the export market, then South Australia is the perfect place for…

SOMEONE SHRIEKS. I look up to see a trio of mermaids thrashing their tails in a shallow sea above my head. One waves her hand before slithering down the neon-lit plastic sheet to lavish attention on other audience members. Hundreds of smartphone screens follow her like a school of luminous fish. The scantily clad ladies are just one element of the show at Sanya Romance Park, a deliriously trippy performance that’s part Cirque du Soleil, part Vegas and part bombastic Beijing Olympics. A flying carpet descends from the ceiling with a troupe of bedazzled belly dancers. A love ballad culminates in a cascade of cherry blossoms. Ostensibly, the show tells tales from Hainan province’s illustrious past, but as my Mandarin is beyond rusty, I never quite figure out the historical…

HOW DO YOU PREP FOR TRAVEL WITHIN AN UNFAMILIAR CULTURE? I always seek to learn the basic phrases—even if pronounced incorrectly, it shows I’m trying, offers an icebreaker and builds rapport when meeting local people. Our guests always have a pre-departure kit, which details customs, cultural etiquette and some common phrases. We consult with local guides, and on the ground they can weigh in to really enhance your travel experience. IS THE TOURISM INDUSTRY BECOMING MORE CULTURALLY SENSITIVE? Guests traveling with responsible travel companies are being better educated to help protect and preserve the cultural integrity of each destination. It’s becoming pertinent for travelers to choose their local operator carefully to ensure they are managed by people with sustainable motives. Unfortunately, there are still a number of travelers who don’t…

GOOGLE TRANSLATE Not everyone has the time and dedication to learn a language before traveling abroad. But memorizing a few key phrases can earn your host’s respect, keep you from getting lost on the spider-web-of-a-subway in Tokyo, or make sure there is no pork in your pad Thai in Bangkok. With features like offline ability and instant camera translation, Google Translate will be your key to a garrulous getaway. translate. google.com; Android and iOS. CULTURE EXPLORER Launched by Samsung, this app is an ode to Southeast Asia’s cultural and historical heritage by connecting modern people with the region’s rich past. To facilitate appreciation of heritage landmarks in Singapore, Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Cambodia and soon the rest of the region, the app uses augmented reality to work like a personal…

SUPERSAVER Avani Quy Nhon and Anantara Hoi An, Vietnam Experience two of Vietnam’s most enticing spots: the shores of Quy Nhon and the alluring alleys of Hoi An. The Deal Ultimate Vietnam Special: three nights in a Deluxe Balcony room at Anantara Hoi An and three nights in a Deluxe Studio room at Avani Quy Nhon, from US$1,200 for two, through December 23. Save 40%. Reservations: hoian@anantara.com. ROMANCE HONG KONG Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Tea and a hydrating massage are two surefire ways to heat up your February. Luxuriate in a 60-minute full-body massage for toning and hydration with your partner, then ease back to life with a steaming cup of world-class tea and an enticing spread of homemade chocolates, pastries, cakes and soufflés. The Deal Rose Indulgence package: massage…

There’s nothing more electrifying in the spectrum of human experiences than falling in love. If you happen to be traveling when the magic strikes, the setting can become larger than life in your head and heart, developing a mythology of its own. For me, that place is Amed, a string of small, scalloped sandy bays and villages on Bali’s spectacular, coral-fringed east coast. Five years ago, I spent a few days with the woman of my dreams there. Ever since, I’ve thought of Amed fondly, recalling memories of walks along the beach collecting seashells, small talk with fisherman repairing the nets and watching the sun melt behind a mountain in luminous colors. Love, like travel, doesn’t always go according to plan. My relationship didn’t. Likewise, over the years in Bali,…

THIS MONTH ON TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM AN ECO-STYLISH SAFARI LODGE ARRIVES IN NEPAL Meghauli Lodge is bringing travelers back to Chitwan National Park, and helping to save endangered rhinos. A JUNGLE FEAST IN BORNEO Join two of our intrepid contributors on a river-rafting adventure into the heart of Borneo’s rainforest. THE ULTIMATE CRAFT COCKTAIL GUIDE Bars around Asia are ginning up mind-bendingly complex craft cocktails. We offer our list of the region’s top tipples. LOOKOUT New life in old Bangkok; Asia’s first luxury destination club debuts; travel trends for the year ahead; where to go in 2017; the latest travel deals; and more. travelandleisureasia.com DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS Available on iOS, Android, Win 8 and Zinio Desktop Reader FOLLOW US TWITTER.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA FACEBOOK.COM/TRAVELLEISUREASIA PINTEREST.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA INSTAGRAM.COM/TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA KEEP UP WITH US Sign up for…

Eight artists shed light on the softer side of the Lion City in The City Book - Singapore, by Production Q. The hardback is the second installment of The City Book, following the Hong Kong edition, which came out last year. The work of Genevieve Chua, Sarah Choo Jing, Hilmi Johandi, Charles Lim, Tang Ling Nah, Dawn Ng, Shubigi Rao and Robert Zhao Renhui fills its pages in a rich visual narrative of all angles of the city, from park benches to high rises, that have inspired the artists. Each artist specializes in a different medium and uses their craft, along with personal anecdotes, to convey their experience of the city, covering multicultural themes of urban isolation, transitory spaces and memory. A trip through the city with this book in…

THE CORPORATE RETREAT Handwritten notes can be quickly digitized with Moleskine’s new Smart Writing Set. A tiny camera in the aluminum pen uploads every mark on the page to an app for editing and sharing. Record audio while you write and it syncs to your notes for real-time playback. moleskine.com; US$199 THE GROUP GETAWAY In a market saturated with speakers, the UE Roll 2 takes top marks. It’s waterproof, weighs less than half a kilo, and at up to 85 decibels is far louder than its size would imply. Stream for nine hours without charging; a mini float and built-in bungee let you take it anywhere safely. ultimateears.com; US$100. THE LONG-HAUL FLIGHT Bose’s QuietControl 30 wireless headphones offer adjustable noise cancellation (turn it down for the PA, up for engine…

SLIDE YOUR FEET into shoes that go with anything and seem to accomplish everything, from feeling good to looking great to helping solve world hunger. After 17 years of designing and supplying shoes to international retailers, Singaporeans Benny Chee and Phoebe Charn wanted to create their own brand that would stand out for superb craftsmanship, incredible comfort, below-marketrate prices, and positive social impact. From this ambitious to-do list, Anothersole was born. These soft oxfords with a ballet-shoe feel are made from all-natural materials, such as full-grain leather and suede from Argentina and Italy. They are great to take on trips because the stitchand-turn leatherwork offers lots of flexibility making them easy to pack, and the high-performance foot-bed offers an extra spring in every well-supported step, meaning you can cover more…

FIREFLIES FLOAT SO HIGH above the tall, dark trees that they become almost indistinguishable from the stars overhead. Below, in a forest clearing, a ragtag ensemble of village musicians issues slippery melodies and exotic beats from rustic, handmade instruments. The composition, I’m told, invokes the blessing of the gods who inhabit Banteay Chhmar, one of Cambodia’s most important, most remote, and least understood Angkor-era temples. Surrounded by thick forest, 170 kilometers away from Angkor Wat, Banteay Chhmar is Cambodia’s fourth largest temple dating to the Angkor. Yet the millennium-old complex sees a fraction of visitors the more popular temples receive each year. While Angkor Wat is flooded by an average of 10,000 tourists a day, Banteay Chhmar attracts fewer than six. Six. And that’s average, remember; in the three days…

THE DETAILS GETTING THERE Adelaide is the gateway to South Australia, with frequent connections from other Australian cities. HOTELS The Louise A low-slung compound of stucco buildings surrounded by lavender plantings. Rooms have gas fireplaces and outdoor showers, and there’s a great restaurant, Appellation. Marananga; thelouise.com.au; suites from A$606; four-course tasting menu A$128. Thorn Park by the Vines A bed-and-breakfast in rural Clare Valley where owners David Hay and Michael Speers treat you like friends staying for the night. Sevenhill; thornpark.com.au; doubles from A$434. Vineyard McLaren Vale Four cozy cottages with kitchens and porches set on a hill with lovely views out to the vineyards. Blewitt Springs; thevineyardmv. com.au; cottages from A$383. RESTAURANTS & CAFES Fino at Seppeltsfield Enjoy sensitively prepared local produce and an interesting wine list. Seppeltsfield; seppeltsfield.…

NOWADAYS, THE ABILITY TO FLY AROUND the globe only to be greeted by familiarities from home makes it increasingly easy to lose sight of our cultural differences. But travel can still be a behavioral minefield. From eating with the wrong hand, to kissing the wrong cheek, we are presented with tons of ways to not only embarrass ourselves while traveling, but perhaps also offend our hosts. Here are a few essentials to help you get culturally attuned before your next trip.…

BALI ARTS IMMERSION, DANU ENTERPRISES Husband-and-wife duo Judy Slattum and Made Surya are just the people you want to show you around Bali. Slattum, a scholar on Balinese arts, and Surya, a local and culinary expert, are putting together trips that are immersive and educational, but still relaxing and fun. Practice the art of dance or carve traditional masks under the tutelage of Bali’s best. With language and cultural briefings upon arrival, you’ll be ready for a stellar trip. danutours.com; two-week tour from US$1,725. HANOI GOURMET TRAILS, TRAILS OF INDOCHINA There may be no better way to connect with a place you are traveling to than through delicious gastronomic interactions. During this tour in Hanoi, you’ll sample the best of the local cuisine, from tender meatballs in bun cha to…

On the Coast of Coromandel Where the early pumpkins blow, In the middle of the woods Lived the Yonghy-Bonghy-Bo... As a child I assumed that these lines by Edward Lear, England’s 19th-century master of nonsense poetry, described a magical home for the Yonghy, his fantastical protagonist. So it was with a shiver of thrill, as at a spell taking effect, that I landed in Chennai, on India’s southeastern shore—the actual Coast of Coromandel. Lear himself visited the city in the 1870s, when it was called Madras. Lear’s primary modes of transportation then were bullock carts and sedan chairs. I was grateful to be riding in a Toyota minivan driven by S. Jayapaul Sreenevasan, a gentleman of courtly manners wearing entirely immaculate white, who navigated the roaring capital of the state…

SIDEMEN The Ubud of the East. When Walter Spies, the German artist whose atmospheric paintings are credited with introducing Balinese art and culture to the world, first traveled to the island in 1927, he settled in Ubud. But, weary of the social engagements in the spiritual capital, he moved to Sidemen, a rural idyll in a fairytale valley in the foothills of Mount Agung. New-age travelers are now following Spies eastward, to trek and bike, take Balinese language, -painting and -cooking classes, practice yoga, or just zone out to the gentle rhythms of village life. “Sidemen feels authentic because the locals don’t all work in tourism,” says Francesco Solfrini, a traveler from Italy. “Mostly they’re farmers. Their daily life isn’t too different from how it would’ve been in their grandfathers’…

In recent years, the hanbok, or traditional Korean dress, has been enjoying a resurgence in Seoul. Historically, the brightly colored, clean-lined clothing of the Joseon period was worn at semi-formal or formal gatherings, weddings and celebrations. These days, however, you’ll find groups of young Korean women enrobed in these beautiful outfits snapping selfies among the greenery of historical gardens and in front of palaces that date back to the 1400s. Catching a fleeting glimpse of one of the billowing skirts can be in some places—like down the narrow lanes of 600-year-old Bukchon Hanok Village—a dreamlike game of cat-and-mouse. In others, the classic frocks are so ubiquitous that you feel like you’ve stepped into a period play. Here, a young girl walks through a doorway at Unhyeongung Royal Residence, which became…

1 Supachat Vetchamaleenont PHOTOGRAPHER Perfect Exposure Page 17 Before shooting Bangkok’s hot new gallery, House of Lucie, Vetchamaleenot had to find it. “It is hard to find. The door is small, but inside you’re transported to a big, bright space, like going in a tunnel and emerging in a new place.” It heralds a new era in the arts scene. “In Thailand, in the past, a photographer wasn’t an artist. Paintings, not photos, went in galleries. But now people are interested in photos as creative work.” He, though, is interested in some of the old ways. “I like to take my family to the floating markets near Bangkok so my kids can see the way people live on the river, making do with the simple boat life.” 2 Joe Cummings…

CHAMPAGNE FLOWED as photography fans packed one of the most anticipated openings of the Bangkok art scene. Like many of the partygoers, I was hovering around Afghan Girl, a photo made famous as the cover of National Geographic in June 1985 and one of the most enduring images of all time. This caliber of show was a rarity in Bangkok, but may soon be the norm with publisher and photophile Hossein Farmani’s opening of House of Lucie, in Ekkamai. Born in Iran, Farmani migrated to the United States for university, where he studied photography and eventually combined his love of photos and publishing by launching the magazines VUE and FotoFolio. Farmani relocated to Bangkok in 2012, married a Thai lawyer and opened Rooftop Gallery, which was a huge departure from…

Give your makeup bag an upgrade with Rimowa’s new line of beauty cases. This capsule release is available in almost all Rimowa collections so you can match it with your luggage set. The spacious toiletry trunk has the brand’s classic grooves and comes in aluminum or polycarbonate, yet for its robust appearance, its lightest version weighs a modest 1.2 kilograms. Inside is a treasure trove of clasps and fasteners to help delicately secure all manner of lipsticks, brushes, lotions and potions. It also comes with the TSA-approved lock, so you can keep your beauty products—and secrets—safe. rimowa.com; from S$585, Bosa Nova 38 (pictured here) S$1,320.…

FILIPINO DESIGNERS have embraced the purse as a medium to showcase creativity. Around an island nation where sunscreen and shades and are musttotes, the landscape is dripping in Technicolor inspiration, natural materials abound and there is a tradition of highly skilled craftsmanship, it isn’t surprising that the fashion scene is bubbling up with truly eye-catching handbags. Blurring the lines between fashion and art, these artisans have adorned the clutch— perhaps the perfect canvas for innovation as it is bigger than most jewelry but small enough not to overwhelm—with bespoke beadwork, weaving and embroidery, carved woods, metals and even precious stones. The result? One-of-a kind statement pieces so graphic and sculptural that a would-be accessory becomes a gallery-worthy display, glittering in your grasp. Here are six innovative designers who are establishing…

EUROPE The air kiss is a common salutation throughout much of Europe, however, not all smooches are the same, even within the same country. It’s four kisses in Nantes, France; three in the Netherlands; two in Spain; and a single peck in Francophone Belgium. When it comes to aim, in Portugal and much of France, you move from left to right, but if you’re in, for example, Strasbourg, France, go right to left. INDIA Shaking hands is common, but only between two men or two women. Members of the opposite sex do not make contact with each other in greeting. The traditional salutation when meeting an elder is to bend down and touch their feet. JAPAN With your hands to your side or relaxed on your lap, bend at your…

COMMON MISTAKES The biggest mistake I see is when a traveler refuses to adapt to the local culture and expects things to be the same as they are at home. For example, in Japan it is considered extremely rude to cancel a dinner reservation or appointment, whereas in the U.S. it is quite normal to cancel things. It’s amazing how many people still cancel dinner reservations at a top restaurant, lose a US$1,000 deposit, and then question why. HOW DO YOU PREP FOR TRAVEL WITHIN AN UNFAMILIAR CULTURE? I am always in communication with local guides or tour operators prior to arriving to assess not only where to go, but the best way of doing things. This includes both logistics and getting familiar with the new culture. We have created…