Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2016 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

THIS MONTH ON TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM 5 ULTIMATE RUNNING TRAILS These grueling trails from Sri Lanka to Nepal reward athletes with stunning scenery and wildlife. 5 VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS IN SEOUL There’s more to the city’s culinary landscape than barbecue. Here, meatless eateries offer savory dishes. DISCOVER ALTAI, SIBERIA For a brief three-month period each year, these mountains in the heart of the country burst into bloom. + LOOKOUT Learn to be a DJ in Bali or the Maldives; Bangkok’s Chinatown revival; a guide to getting to most from your European travels; and more. travelandleisureasia.com DOWNLOAD US T+L TABLET EDITIONS Available on iOS, Android, Win 8 and Zinio Desktop Reader. FOLLOW US TWITTER.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA FACEBOOK.COM/TRAVELLEISUREASIA PINTEREST.COM/TRAVLEISUREASIA INSTAGRAM.COM/TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA KEEP UP WITH US Sign up for our newsletter for monthly highlights and offers from T+L Southeast…

So your luggage went missing on your last trip? You have very bad luck because the number of mishandled bags has been decreasing, according to U.K. travel group Sita. And both airlines and airports are improving tracking methods. There’s more on this topic on page 66 of this issue. 1/5 of passengers used self bag-drop on their last flight 31% of passengers intend to use self bag-drop on their next flight 77% of airlines to implement self bag-tagging by 2018 88% of airports will implement self bagtagging by 2018 3.5 BILLION passengers enplaned in 2015 #TLASIA SOMETIMES OUR BEST TRAVEL PHOTOS LOOK LIKE POSTCARD MEMORIES. Hong Kong on a dark and stormy night. By @ottobilly Jade Green Lake, Lijiang, China. By @milica_grujic_ Off the radar, West Papua. By @presentacionoftheworld Above…

Everyone knows that shoulder seasons are a great time to travel—until it rains. Now, if you’re visiting Laos, you might pray for some precipitation. Until the end of October, travel portal One Click to Asia (oneclicktoasia.com) is paying back half your travel costs if you’ve booked a minimum seven-night trip with them and the vacation is disrupted by heavy rain. More specifically, for every day of three hours or more of continuous rain, you’ll be reimbursed. In cash. Of course, Laos is landlocked, so the portal is hoping for fewer showers than you might find on the surrounding coasts.…

It may be off the beaten track, but Tasmania is now only a click away when it comes to souvenirs. A delivery service dubbed Tassie Pure (tassiepure.com) offers more than 300 local products from 40 different artisans, from organic food to beauty and wellness products to local crafts. Think merino wool neck warmers (A$54.50), handcrafted Huon pine platters (A$30), goat-milk soap (A$8) and bags made of organic cotton or raw leather (from A$20). No online trip down under would be complete without dipping into the foodstuffs available: leatherwood honey (A$16 for a 350-gram tin); dried pepper berries (A$17 for a 50-gram bag); and elaborate food gift sets (from A$60) are all on the menu. Shipping is either express post or courier.…

AMATARA RESORT & WELLNESS | Phuket New to Amatara Resort & Wellness is The Retreat, an outlet serving nutritious food and beverages. Poached prawns and quinoa salad with a ginger-ginseng dressing, or stir-fried beef tenderloin with ginger and yuzu sauce are two items on the menu, which comes with a slight Thai twist. amataraphuket.com. TRI | Lake Koggala, Sri Lanka At this six-month-old high-design hotel, ayurveda-inspired meals at the spa start with fresh-baked bread such as kurakkan roti and roasted-cashew butter. Even the cocktails—try the beet martini—seem healthy. trilanka.com. FOUR SEASONS HONG KONG | Hong Kong Keeping in mind the idea that beauty is more than skin deep, the hotel’s executive chef Herve Fucho has designed a healthy menu that’s meant to complement half-day spa treatments in the Be Present…

The way we carry the things we carry is changing. Bags can now weigh themselves, charge our mobile devices and keep our clothes wrinkle-free, not to mention turn heads on the concourse. Meanwhile, airlines are charging us more fees yet still losing our luggage—while clever apps and start-ups are trying to find workarounds. What does it all mean for travelers, and how do we get our stuff to our destinations easily, safely and with style? For the latest products, tips, strategies and inventions, carry on. TRAILBLAZER THE SUIT SAVER Vocier bags transport your clothing without a wrinkle (in the fabric, at least). Shirts, shoes and accessories go in the middle of the bag; suits and dresses slip into the outer shell, which wraps around everything else. An easily reached opening…

Carry a tamperresistant bag. Hard Graft’s leather Flat Pack (hardgraft.com; US$325) is a discreet, goodlooking satchel with the zipper on the back, against your body and away from invasive hands. Update your software. One of the easiest ways to hack into a computer is by taking advantage of software weaknesses, says Edward Yakabovicz, cyber security architect at (ISC)2 security. Upgrades patch those holes, so make sure everything on your machine—including the operating system—is the very latest edition. Set a (strong) password. Jamie Tomasello, technology director at digital rights group Access Now, says the code should be at least 12 characters long, and suggests using four random words strung together. Enable full-disk encryption. This extra protection is important if there’s sensitive data on your computer, Tomasello says. It ensures that any…

SUPER SAVER Hotel Chinzanso, Tokyo This summer, the hotel’s garden turns into a glittering forest of fireflies. A private viewing and a firefly-inspired cocktail for two come with a night in the new terrariumadorned room. The Deal Aqua Garden Firefly Stay: a night in an Aqua Garden room, from ¥53,200 for two, through June 12. Save 48%. hotel-chinzanso-tokyo.com. CULTURE ASIA Mövenpick Hotels & Resorts From Thailand to the Philippines, 10 Mövenpick properties are offering a generous summer discount, plus a US$20 voucher to spend at the hotels’ dining venues if you book directly on the website. The Deal Special summer rates: a night in a standard room, from US$80 for two; book by August 31. Save 30%. movenpick.com. SRI LANKA Shangri-La’s Hambantota Resort & Spa With 300 guest rooms, an…

COULD IT BE THAT THE ROAD TO GOOD INTENTIONS IS OFTEN PAVED WITH HELL? That’s how it feels as I ascend a jungle-clad knoll at the southern end of Pak Nam Pran Beach, Pranburi, at a pace that probably would make a narcoleptic snail blush. Step after faltering step, I heave myself up the rocky path towards the coveted view until, finally—as my glasses threaten to slide off my glistening face for the umpteenth time—I reach the summit. After reflecting on my aching calves and rocketing temperature for a self-pitying second, I take the time to look around. To the south and west, the limestone peaks of Khao Sam Roi Yot and Kui Buri national parks trail off into the distance before giving way to even wilder territory at the…

TONLE BASSAC The rabbit-warren lanes of Tonle Bassac, named for the nearby river, conceal some of the hottest spots. Street 308 is a jumping-off point, starting at the bustling Piccolo Italia da Luigi (M36; pizzas for two $15) and the leafy, French-owned Lemon Tree (8B; dinner for two $25) before moving to the micro-bars of Bassac Lane, among them: The Library (fb.com/thelibrarydaiquiribar; drinks for two $10), where you can peruse a tome over a drink, and Double D (fb.com/double dphnompenhm114; dinner for two $25), a new Malaysianfusion bar-cum-eatery. If you can find the aptly named The Lost Room (thelostroom.asia; dinner for two $25) on Street 21, succumb to the communal menu and rotating wine list. TUOL TOM POUNG Once an area best avoided, the streets around southern Phsar Tuol Tom Poung (Russian Market) now house…

1 Daven Wu WRITER What’s Samata? Page 23 Like any of us, Wu is always excited with the opening of a new resort. “I always look for big bathrooms, locally sourced bath products, big beds, a knowledgeable concierge, and a great daybed by the pool,” he says. What bothers him about hotel rooms? Bedside consoles “that require a PhD to operate.” He laughs when thinking of frustrating nights in a new hotel room trying to figure out which switch turns off that last light. Next, he’s headed to Ise-Shima National Park to check out Amanemu and doesn’t expect any room glitches at an Aman resort— particularly one in Japan. Instagram: @davenwu 2 Pornsak Na Nakorn PHOTOGRAPHER A Short Hop South Page 96 The Bangkok-dweller happily ate his way through Hua…

BALI’S CHARMS blossom the moment the traffic-choked, onestreet towns are left behind, and the journey turns towards either the terraced emerald rice fields, or the white foam-flecked coast. Happily, newly opened The Samata (thesamata.com; doubles from Rp2,842,810) in Sanur offers the best of both worlds. The resort’s entrance is practically lost along a row of unremarkable private residences that are set off a busy highway. Once past the smiling security guards and across a bijou concrete bridge that spans a little stream, the vista opens up tardis-like into a cloistered haven of manicured greenery and white Palimanan stone. Framing the tableau is an expanse of rice fields and, beyond that, the shimmering curve of the ocean. Each of the 10 villas and suites ticks off all the required boxes of a…

WHEN YOU’RE A PROFESSIONAL lifestyle blogger who divides her days between Hong Kong and Australia, you spend a lot of time packing. That’s Geneva Vanderzeil main takeaway since she established her enormously successful blog A Pair & A Spare in 2008. Today, it has more than 150,000 followers. “The act of packing itself plays as to how well you’re dressed when you are there,” Vanderzeil says. “If you’re rushed, there’s no way to be sure you’ve packed the right outfits and feel strategic in what you have.” Instead, treat packing with the same care you’d bring to choosing your hotel. Give yourself time to think your outfit choices over, lay clothes out on your bed to consider and cull with ruthless intent. If the thought of a small suitcase is…

A guide to cutting-edge treatments and where to book them. SOUND THERAPY Where Ventana Big Sur, California (ventana inn.com); Faena Hotel Miami Beach (faena.com) What Sound bowls have been used for centuries by Tibetan monks—the pure tones and vibrations are said to provide immediate relaxation. Ventana offers quartz-bowl therapy, and Faena Hotel’s most popular treatment is its palo santo oil and soundbowl treatment. NEW SKIN Where Peninsula Bangkok (peninsula.com/bangkok) and Four Seasons Hong Kong (fourseasons.com/hongkong) What Using cosmetic patches containing hyaluronic acid— which stimulates the synthesis of collagen, and reduces the amount and depth of wrinkles—the Second Peau treatment by Biologique Recherche is meant to be a less-invasive alternative to injections. BAMBOO BATHING Where Suiran, Kyoto (starwoodhotels.com) What Traditional open-air baths with mineral-rich waters from the Arashiyama onsen are the…

A DEEP PURPLE BORNEO SUNSET IS transforming the Sarawak River into shimmering dark silk, and I’m perfectly positioned to witness the alchemy, standing at the base of the 1924 Charles Brooke Memorial obelisk. Behind me rises Kuching’s Old Courthouse, a majestic collection of white buildings covered with dark gable roofs and flanked by breezy wood-tiled verandas. This is where Penang’s boutique bistro ChinaHouse (fb.com/chinahousek; meal for two from RM70) opened its new Borneo outlet, one that’s going to turn heads with its blend of culinary, shopping and artsy delights set in a well-preserved colonial-era building. Built between 1868 and 1927, Kuching’s Old Courthouse complex lies at the heart of this river town, carrying the legacy of the White Rajah empire: three generations of Asia-born Englishmen who governed Sarawak for a…

SOMETIMES YOU CHOOSE THE STYLE, and sometimes the style chooses you. So says Rachel Faller, the creative brains behind Cambodia’s premier eco-conscious fashion label, Tonlé (tonledesign.com). But the country’s balmy climate and idyllic beaches meant a casual seaside-friendly look was a natural progression. “A lot of people associate our brand with resort wear because, even though we never intentionally set out to do that, I design with the traveler in mind,” Faller says. “You can roll these clothes up, put them in a suitcase, pull them out and still wear them to a meeting or to the beach.” Woven throughout the designs, both literally and figuratively, are glimpses of the enigmatic country that inspires the Tonlé team, who ensure zero waste when it comes to manufacturing. A use is found for…

Tiny keys and forgotten codes are becoming things of the past. Nextgen luggage locks pop open with your fingerprint or a tap of your phone—so they’re easy to use and difficult to pick. The best ones, by eGeeTouch (preorder at indiegogo.com; US$35) and AirBolt (preorder at theairbolt.com; A$70), use companion apps for Bluetooth or NFC connections. Aside from opening your suitcase, the apps let you authorize other users or see if your bag has been inspected. (As with all TSAapproved locks, these have oldschool keyholes for airport screeners’ keys.) Both systems let you sign into the app from another phone, in case yours runs out of juice.…

The number of mishandled bags around the world fell by more than half between 2007—when the industry sent nearly 47 million astray—and 2015, according to air transport technology firm Sita. Last year, that meant 6.5 mishandled bags per thousand passengers. Most of those bags weren’t able to reach a connecting flight on time; others were the victims of rotten weather or hit other snags. Still, you need intel on how to proceed if this happens to you. WHY LUGGAGE GETS LOST SOURCE: Sita 2016 The Baggage Report AND WHAT TO DO WHEN… It’s not at the carousel. File a report at the airline’s baggage office. Get a copy of the report, plus a direct customerservice phone number for your complaint. Hang on to receipts, baggage-check stubs and ticket in case…

Built in 1904 by a wealthy Chinese merchant, the gorgeous Chinese House was restored late last year to its vintage glory. Worth visiting for the ambience alone, the menu also deserves serious consideration. Welcome surprises from South African chef Amy Baard include vetkoek, a beef dish from her homeland (US$8.95). Also note the bold use of flavors from the region and beyond, complemented by an upscale wine list. chinesehouse.asia; dinner for two $50. e ves serious m South oek, a beef dish ote the bold yond, complemented .asia; dinner for two $50. Creative methods and unexpected flavors come together at The Tiger’s Eye to produce more than just a mouth-watering meal; it’s innovation on a plate. Chef Timothy Bruyns of The Common Tiger fame is behind the newly launched restaurant…

ASK ANY CONNOISSEUR OF SAND AND THEY WILL QUICKLY TELL YOU THAT not all beaches are created equal. Some prefer shores of solitude, others a strip of oceanfront as crowded as a mosh pit. That’s why this month, we aim to go beyond the obvious and ask some of our favorite writers and photographers for their picks of beaches and islands worth knowing. The locales they came back with are as varied as their imaginations, while a whatto-do-there factor is also influential. Japanese photographer Shinsuke Matsukawa, for one, loves surfing so his choice of Indonesia’s Sumba Island and “the break” was an easy choice to make the final cut. For more favorites, turn to “Beach Bucket List” (page 86). We can never exclude Bali in any such issue, and this…

CALL IT THE ATHLEISURE EFFECT: As healthy lifestyles and holistic approaches to wellness have become mainstream, spas have followed suit. The choice is no longer between boot camp and colonics or pedicures by the pool—spas from California to Sri Lanka are combining fitness and nutrition, New Ageiness, and medi-spa procedures (both Western and Eastern). “Guests already know how to eat, how to exercise and about their state of wellness,” says Andrew Barnard, marketing director of the BodyHoliday (thebodyholiday.com), in St. Lucia. “It’s about enhancing their health in the long term.” And for the new generation of spa-goers, which Barnard says is increasingly made up of millennials, fusing travel with wellness—whether it’s a chakra massage or a biometric analysis— carries a definite cool factor. The Doctor Is In The incorporation of…

TWICE A YEAR, COLIN TUNSTALL, Josh Rosen and Morgan Collett, the founders of the Manhattan surfboard-and-apparel company Saturdays NYC (saturdays nyc.com), visit their stores in Tokyo, Kobe, Nagoya and Osaka, always working in a surf trip on the side. Last autumn, the trio headed to Shikoku, the most secluded of Japan’s four main islands, where they awaited an offshore storm that would produce ideal surfing conditions. When not on their boards, they took in the idyllic landscape around the fishing village of Kaifu. “In Tokyo, there are so many dinners, events, parties,” says Tunstall, who shares the stories behind his photographs below. “In Shikoku, it was all about exploring and being by the water.” SATURDAYS IN SHIKOKU…

KEP To rest, revive and rejuvenate, the seaside town of Kep is Faller’s default destination. Situated on the prettiest stretch of Cambodia’s coast, Kep is where jungle-clad mountains meet the ocean. “The whole feeling of it puts you immediately at ease. It’s the place I keep going back to,” Faller says. Her favorite lodging, Villa Romonea (villaromonea.com; entire villa US$600 a night) is an architectural treasure built in 1968. The Sailing Club (fb.com/sailingclubkep; drinks for two US$10), a former fisherman’s cottage, offers beautiful sunsets in tasteful surroundings. “Sit on the pier, have a drink and watch the sun go down,” Faller suggests. KOH RONG Set amid Cambodia’s southern islands, Koh Rong is the best traversed in this string of tropical atolls, most of which are fairly understated, as tourism remains…

Ralph Lauren Weekender duffel, ralphlauren.com; US$2,750. Goyard Palace 55 in Goyardine with leather detail, goyard.com; US$12,870. Tommy Hilfiger Polycarbonate Lochwood 63.5-centimeter luggage, tommy.com; US$300. Louis Vuitton Pégase 55 Épi, louisvuitton.com; US$4,650. T. Anthony Alligator carry-on, tanthony.com; US$12,000. Zero Halliburton Polycarbonate Zero Air II 51-centimeter carry-on four-wheel spinner travel case, zerohalliburton.com; US$395. Tumi Super Léger International four-wheel carry-on, tumi.com; US$545. MCM x Tobias Rehberger Printed leather small suitcase, 1-212/334-9600; US$5,650.…

For Minimalists With its clean, peppy interface, Travel List (iOS; US$1.99) is a good choice for travelers who don’t need a high level of detail. Create a list, tap to add items and note how many of each thing you want to bring. Then just check stuff off as you go. The app lets you add itineraries to your calendar and set alerts to pack or buy items—but that’s pretty much it. For Adventurers Mammut Packing List (iOS; free), created by the outdoor-gear company, is a robust, networked utility for specialized gear—you definitely won’t forget your skin glue or avalanche shovel. You can start from scratch or get a suggested packing list by choosing a specific kind of trip— say, an ice-climbing jaunt with an overnight stay in a hut. You…

AS DAWN BROKE OVER the Ngamo Plain in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park, we set out in search of a male lion that local game guides call Bhubezi. At the wheel of our clappedout Toyota Land Cruiser was Brent Stapelkamp, a dashing young researcher who has been studying Hwange’s prides for almost a decade. The thick Kalahari sand was a test for our wheezing vehicle, but the greater challenge was tracking down Bhubezi, an eight-year-old lion who, together with his brother Bush, has dominated part of this 14,000-square-kilometer park on Zimbabwe’s western border for the past four years. Our search for Bhubezi was urgent, Stapelkamp explained, because just two weeks earlier Bush had been killed—shot by an American hunter on Forestry Commission land two kilometers outside the park. Though bait was…

With design elements inspired by the temples of Angkor, the dozen spacious and well-appointed rooms at Arunreas dial up the luxury. Downstairs is the fine Khéma restaurant, where attentive yet unobtrusive service makes dining a pleasure. Choose a room with a two-person plunge bath—the generous size and privacy make up for the property's lack of a common pool. arunreas.com; doubles from $120. House Boutique Hotel has integrated sustainable practices into every aspect of operations, from the use of reclaimed doors as tables to attractive hanging gardens potted in recycled materials. Modern design blends with striking Khmer architecture, while rooms overlook a courtyard centered on a saltwater pool, at the heart of which grows a pair of frangipani trees. Hospitality as blooming metaphor. houseboutiquehotel.com; doubles from $55. Built around a leafy…