WHEN SUMMER ARRIVES on the Indian Subcontinent, in April, only one aspect of its scalding touch gives comfort. The heat ripens and suffuses with sweetness the region’s parade of mangoes, much missed from Delhi to Dhaka, Karachi to Chennai, since they disappeared the previous July. First into the markets—and also, many assert, first in taste, bouquet, color and shape—is the alphonso variety of western India.
“Hapus! Hapus! Hapus!” Every year, around the time temperatures start to rise above 35 degrees, the region’s own word for the variety begins to circulate in boardrooms, trains and tea shops. Merchants in city markets welcome fragrant, hay-lined boxes of the green-gold fruits with their enticing rosy blush, costing up to US$20 a dozen—a stratospheric figure by local standards. The price represents the promise, if…