Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2015 i Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Hong Kong & Macau

instagram.com/travelandleisureasia Share your favorite photos on Instagram and tag them with #TLAsia for a chance to be featured in the magazine. Download Us T+L Tablet Edition Available on iOS, Android, Win 8 and Zinio Desktop Reader. Get the May issue now. Visit Us travelandleisureasia.com This Month’s Top Lists 7 Inspired Creative Spots in Perth 5 Picks Around Asia for Vintage Vinyl 4 Insider Insights on Art in Kuala Lumpur Follow Us twitter.com/travleisureasia + facebook.com/travelleisureasia + pinterest.com/travleisureasia + instagram.com/travelandleisureasia Contact Us tleditor@mediatransasia.com…

Are you kidding me with that Batman-worthy submarine in Fiji [“Out of the Blue,” March]? Everything about Laucala seems unbelievable, from their Wagyu cattle ranch to the private island built to house their 385 staff. I can’t believe I’m saying this, but this study in seeming inefficiency does sound like, as author Peter Jon Lindberg says, my kind of crazy. –Ashley Phelps, HONG KONG Island Living I loved it at Soneva Kiri Koh Kood [“Sacred Spaces,” April]. They have great staff and food. —Becky Kent-Perchalla ADELAIDE I’d love to see the newly uncovered Baphuon temple at Angkor and then jet back to the beach. Sounds like the best of both worlds. —Pichayanee Murdoch BANGKOK Soneva Kiri is a wonderful place. I went there for the soft opening, and would absolutely…

Jaisal Singh and I were installed over whiskies in the jasmine-scented Polo Bar of the Suján Rajmahal Palace, the newest palace hotel in the Indian city of Jaipur, when a pink-turbaned attendant glided over to tell him that the maharajah, the city’s young king, was about to arrive for dinner with friends. Jaisal, whose hospitality group, Suján, manages the hotel, gracefully excused himself, returning moments later with a slight young man in mud-soiled polo whites: the maharajah, 16-year-old Padmanabh Singh. Aside from his impeccable manners (and the glass of champagne dangling from his fingers), he might have been any high school kid returning home after a game. Though India officially abolished its aristocracy after independence in 1947, there is still an honorary royal family in Jaipur, the capital of the…

10 KARAKÖY Neighborhood Arty, of-the-moment Karaköy, a once-downtrodden harbor district now revitalized with spot-on cafés and hip galleries. Style Low-luster bling with a touch of the traditional. Architect Sinan Kafadar gave this 1875 Neoclassical building a modern makeover, styling the interiors in neutral tones and stocking the 71 rooms with Malin & Goetz toiletries. Don’t Miss The top-floor bar, where the in-crowd comes to party. morgans hotelgroup.com; doubles from US$220. RAFFLES Neighborhood Levent, an affluent, business-oriented riverside district. The hotel is part of the Zorlu Center, home to an array of upscale shops. Style Sexy Ottoman opulence. Chandeliers adorn the lobby, while the 181 rooms feature mosaic-tiled bathrooms, prints inspired by the Blue Mosque, and sweeping Bosporus views. Don’t Miss The knockout 3,066-squaremeter spa, which has three hammams for steaming…

Long overshadowed by its Southeast Asian sister cuisines, Khmer cooking is finally getting the love it deserves. Years ago, when the upscale Cambodian restaurant Cuisine Wat Damnak opened in Siem Reap, it was an anomaly in an area notorious for shilling out greasy pan-Asian fast food. Now, the freshest fine-dining face catering to the town’s increasingly sophisticated palate boasts two talented young chefs mentored by Régis Marcon, France’s triple Michelin-starred guru, serving resolutely local cuisine with a twist. Nicknamed the Kimsan Twins, Pol and Sok have ambitiously reinvented the regional classics of their childhoods to create Embassy, a thoroughly modern, seasonally driven restaurant with a pinch of French influence. Diners embark on a five-course culinary exploration of the country, which might include anything from seared scallops with red curry to…

Brushstroke Many apps can make your photos look like paintings, but this one outshines the rest. Channel van Gogh or Warhol with effects that range from “illustration” to “experimental.” Then tweak the surface texture (think “canvas” or “stucco”) and color quality. You can even have your work framed and shipped to your door. US$2.99; iOS. Pixelmator This app offers many of the same advanced editing tools as Photoshop, but makes them a cinch for novices. Our favorite is Retouch, which allows you to remove unwanted elements by simply highlighting them with your fingertip. Poof—there goes the yellow umbrella (or unwanted photobomber). US$9.99; iPad only. Fused Creating double exposures used to be a professional job; now it’s a matter of two simple taps. Overlay a selfie with a beautiful landscape, mash…

With the launch of the David Rockwell–designed NeueHouse (neuehouse.com) in New York, tech investors Abram and Murray upended the concept of co-working. Instead of spare desks populated by nascent start-up founders, they built a members-only club for bold-faced creatives, complete with screening rooms, broadcast studios and private dining areas. With outposts in L.A. (see page 56) and London on the way and more in their sights, Abram and Murray average 100 days a year on the road. Must-pack items JA: Running shoes and gym clothes. Exercising while traveling is key to maintaining one’s sanity. Carry-on vs. checked bag JA: I check everything because I hate to feel like a Sherpa walking through airports. Alan is an abstemious packer and reminds me of the error of my ways with each turn of…

VISIT EVEREST BASE CAMP Yes, you read that right. You can actually drive to Mount Everest Base Camp from Tibet, a far more child-friendly approach than attempting to hike from the Nepalese side. Along the way you will pass glorious mountains, valleys and monasteries. Note: travelers into Tibet must always be accompanied by a licensed guide. Jamin “Losang” York, who co-runs Plateau Photo Tours, is a father of two himself, and suggests that parents wait until the wee ones are at least three or four before they attempt to conquer these legendary slopes at such high altitudes. plateau phototours.com; 11-night Lhasa to Everest Base Camp Overland tour US$3,499 per person. RIDE THE WIND-SWEPT PLAINS OF MONGOLIA For every kid who always wanted a pony, mounting a sturdy steed and galloping…

COMPETE IN A TRIATHLON IN THE PHILIPPINES. Drag your kids away from the Playstation and let their competitive streak shine at Alaska IronKids Philippines. The event is held in Cebu and has categories for kids who are in it to win it as well as those who are just starting out. ironkidsphil.com; registration fee P1,200; next triathlon August 1. BRING YOUR BABY TO YOGA IN INDIA. Normally, moms head to a yoga retreat to breathe deep and get peace-and-quiet time away from the kids, but Ayurveda Retreat in Coonoor, India, will allow babies into the practice rooms provided they are calm. Bring your own mat and let bubba chill on the floor while you channel your inner Zen. ayurveda.org; all-inclusive retreats from €155 per night, double. BOUNCE ON A TRAMPOLINE…

THAILAND Angsana Laguna Phuket This beachfront property is set within a multi-resort destination that’s heaven for children thanks to the shuttles, multiple lagoons to explore and activities, our favorite of which is the culinary course. Let your eight-year-old cook you dinner for a change! Classes are held in a kids’ club that looks like a tree house. angsana.com; twobedroom loft from Bt11,840.25, cooking classes Bt300. INDONESIA Bali Dynasty Here you can let your kids run away to the circus without ever leaving the hotel. After a few classes they’ll be flying through the air with the greatest of ease, these brave students of the flying trapeze. If your wee ones aren’t ready to take to the air, they can try the bungee trampoline, juggling or spinning plates, also taught at…

Restless horses shuffle their carts outside the market, waiting for fares. In Lombok’s smaller towns and villages, the traditional cidomo remains a popular means of traveling short distances. But, with the sky glowing indigo above a sea of roughly beaten silver, we opt instead to arrive from across the bay by wooden outrigger, one among dozens of similar vessels plowing towards land in the morning market’s version of a D-Day invasion. With their night’s work done, the local fishermen bring their haul to Lombok’s Tanjung Luar. We’ve come ashore to check out the seafood for sale on this Indonesian island’s under-touristed southeast coast, as dawn spills into the day. The activity is frenetic. Women clad in sarongs and shod in flip-flops jostle for position next to tubs of pink-gray baby…

for about a decade now, the trends of hyper-local ingredients, sustainable sourcing and nose-to-tail cooking have been sweeping through Paris. In the process, the city has shed its museumof-food reputation and once again become a mecca for culinary creativity. Ambitious chefs from near and far are bringing with them new ideas for the kitchen and a fresh approach to dining out. There’s experimental haute cuisine at the gastronomic temples, sophisticated cooking at scruffy bistros, and surprising small plates at buzzy nouveau bars frequented by the kind of pretty young things featured in these pages. Here are some of the latest openings taking Paris in new directions. ALLÉNO PARIS AT PAVILLON LEDOYEN Last year’s shuffle among top chefs began when Yannick Alléno returned to Paris after almost two years of retreat…

HOTEL SP34 Spread across three town houses in Indre By’s Latin Quarter, this new family-owned hotel puts a spin on Danish design. A concrete-and-brass bar acts as the reception desk, the lobby doubles as a library lounge, and the tapas restaurant serves killer pimientos with anchovies. The spare rooms are small, but who wants to linger inside when the boutiques of Sankt Peders Street beckon? brochner-hotels.dk; Kr1,295. HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE After a US$110 million renovation, the 18th-century Hotel d’Angleterre has been reborn with polished marble, rich carpeting and a muted gray palette. At night, head to the lively Balthazar bar for a passion-fruit-and-champagne cocktail before tucking in to chef Ronny Emborg’s Nordic creations at the Michelinstarred restaurant, Marchal. dangleterre.dk; Kr3,000. NIMB HOTEL Book well in advance for one of the 17…

At the modern design emporium Hay House (hay.dk), the two floors are filled with furniture and accessories by Danish company Hay along with geometric wares like Ori pepper mills and George Nelson bubble lamps. + Nearby Storm (stormfashion.dk) sells iconic fashion labels (Givenchy, Pucci) and up-andcomers, including Swedish sneaker brand Eytys and jeweler Mads Trolle. + In addition to his own boldly patterned clothing line, native artist-musiciancouturier Henrik Vibskov (henrikvibskov boutique.com) also carries Comme des Garçons shoes and small-batch gin. + With its Hans Wegner armchairs, Ole Wanscher desks and Borge Mogensen sofas, Dansk Møbelkunst (dmk.dk) is ground zero for fans of vintage Midcentury design. + In an otherwise drab corner of Vesterbrogade, Designer Zoo (dzoo.dk) showcases one-offs from local artisans, like asymmetrical cups and colorful slanted vases. + Ikea meets the dollar store at…

Lidkoeb The minds behind the popular cocktail club Ruby recently opened this cozy lodge-style lounge. Order the Fin’ Rom, made with rum, sherry and caramelized figs. lidkoeb.dk. Ved Stranden 10 Show up early to score a waterside table at this wine bar on Holmens Kanal, especially on Monday nights for the wildly popular one-pot dinners. vedstranden10.dk. Mikkeller & Friends The second outpost of local microbrewery Mikkeller has more than 40 beers on tap. A highlight: the refreshing Tiger Baby, brewed with mango and passion fruit. mikkeller.dk.…

At Lot #29 (lot29.dk) downtown, there’s a well-curated selection of Scandinavian and international clothing designers. In Amager, Andersens Contemporary (andersens contemporary.dk) shows works by big- name artists like Olafur Eliasson. For lunch, I love the smoked salmon and steak tartare at Lumskebugten (lumskebugten. dk; lunch for two Kr330), near the border of Frederiksstaden. When I want to escape town I go to Bellevue Beach north of the city. It has these incredible lifeguard towers designed by Arne Jacobsen. My favorite spots for breakfast are Café Det Vide Hus (45/6061-2002), which serves delicious coffee and avocado on toast, and Atelier September (atelier-september.dk), a stylish all-day café like the kind you’d find in London or TriBeCa, in New York City. In the spring, I like to go for a picnic at the King’s Garden, where you can…

Contact me @CKucway chrisk@mediatransasia.com WE EACH HAVE OUR FAVORITE PLACES UNDER the tropical sun—Bangkok, Langkawi and Singapore spring to mind—but on some trips it’s better to head for the shadows. That’s where you will find destinations that, while near cherished stops, are often overlooked. For starters this month, we feature Bali’s immediate neighbor to the east, Lombok; as well as Brisbane, instead of Sydney or Melbourne. Then it’s on to nine Thai islands that are not named Phuket or Samui. Think of these journeys as taking a left turn instead of heading right—zig instead of zag. What better place to start than on an Indonesian isle? Our story, (“On Lombok Time,” page 78), begins with the blissful absence of televisions, mini-bars and Internet, carrying you to another world entirely. Simplicity…

The former Japanese capital always blends classical elements with modern, and Suiran, the latest luxe offering in Kyoto, fits that sentiment perfectly. Set against the calm Hozugawa River in bamboo-filled Arashiyama, the Luxury Collection hotel melds modern, pine-influenced takes on Japanese design in its 39 guest rooms with two century-old buildings that serve as sleek dining areas. For this hushed view, opt for a garden room, where the Zen-like tranquility soothes all the senses. luxurycollection.com/suiran; doubles from ¥70,000.…

BREAKFAST Chicken porridge at Bubur Kwang Tung Take a spin on the lazy Susan to see what tops your steaming chicken porridge. At Bubur Kwang Tung, try the savory, saline 1,000-year-old egg. 67I Jln. Pecenongan; Rp40,000. DINNER Javanese oxtail soup at Bogor Café For a sophisticated take on this humble local dish, Hotel Borobudur’s all-day dining venue serves rich and deeply nuanced sop buntut. While there, try to tease out stories from the staff of highflying parties held by tycoons and military generals in the storied hotel. hotelborobudur.com; Rp198,000. SNACK Kerak telor at Fatahillah Square Served by street vendors performing a perilous balancing act with two boxes on a pole, this sweet-savory omelette is best enjoyed in an atmospheric square in the old city. Jalan Pintu Besar Utara; Rp30,000. LUNCH…

Set in the previous residence of one of Japan’s former prime ministers, Aritomo Yamagata, the 260-room Hotel Chinzanso has just emerged top-to-toe renovation. The architects stayed faithful to the building’s heritage roots, while adding a host of fivestar upgrades geared towards well-heeled travelers. The place sports no fewer than 12 restaurants and the city’s largest hotel spa, but the real highlight is the immaculately groomed garden—a true haven right in the heart of Tokyo. hotel-chinzanso-tokyo.com; doubles from ¥48,000.…

Taipei Any 24-hour bookstore holds a special place in our hearts. So the original Eslite branch on Dunhua South Road deserves mention—as do the avid readers squeezed in every nook. Tip: in Taipei, the oversized store (five floors of books, food, fashion, and Japanese knickknacks) in Xin Yi is best for tomes in English. eslite.com. Bangkok For English-language titles at hard-to-beat prices, head to Kinokuniya. The go-to branch is in Paragon mall, while the newest outlet is in EmQuartier at Phrom Phong BTS station. Inside tip: watch for paperback versions to hit the shelves; then hardcovers of the same book often go on sale at half price. thailand.kinokuniya.com. Jakarta Strong on bestsellers, as well as business and design books, the four Ak.’sa.ra outlets are a dream in the Indonesian capital.…

Because sake connoisseurs call this “the Burgundy of Japan.” Typically made from highly polished rice, the sake produced here has a smooth taste thanks to the use of pure water from melted snowfall. The island of Sado hosts two of Japan’s finest breweries. One is Hokusetsu (sake-hokusetsu.com), which produces the sake sold outside Japan exclusively at chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s global empire. “I met Nobu 25 years ago,” says Fumio Hazu, CEO, “and we closed the deal with a handshake.” The other, Manotsuru (obatashuzo.com), is run by one of the few women in this business, Rumiko Obata, whose sake is so good that you find it in first class on Air France and Vietnam Airlines. Arrange a tour for superb sipping. Because the historic ryokan here are deeply rooted in Japanese culture. “The…

For Danielle Sherman, exploring Africa is a perk of her job as the creative director of Edun, the ethical fashion brand founded by Bono and Ali Hewson, which produces 95 percent of its goods on the continent. Looking for inspiration for her Fall/Winter 2015 collection, Sherman toured Fez, Marrakesh and the Atlas Mountains for 10 days, guided by Artisan Project, a promoter of local craftspeople. These are her favorite discoveries from medina merchants and makers’ cooperatives. For information on customized itineraries, visit artisanprojectinc.com. PILLOWCASES I bought these from a merchant in the Fez medina who’s been collecting textiles for more than 20 years. They’re all hand-stitched from fragments of handwoven rugs. The idea of mixing materials to make something unique is important to me. STRIPED RUG This man in Ain…

ALL SAINTS ESTATE, RUTHERGLEN, VICTORIA Inside the cellar door is a play table to entertain little ones as you taste the many varieties on offer before you head into the fine-dining restaurant. All other times, children are welcome to play football, throw their own Frisbees or feed the ducks in the large grounds outside. allsaintswine.com.au; six-course chef’s tasting menu with wine A$85 at Terrace Restaurant; kid’s menu A$40 for children 12 years and under. WHISTLER WINES, BAROSSA VALLEY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA Kangaroos, puppies, swings, toys, lots of open space and even treasure hunts keep the kids entertained while you try the famous reds. Entry is free to their events. All you need to bring is your own chair and an empty stomach. whistlerwines.com.au; Stew and Shiraz event June 7, 11 a.m.-5…

This island boasts a veritable bounty of tucked-away places to stay that are more rustic than luxe, but great for simply chilling out. Forget, for instance, finding spas at these spots; expect instead a connection to nature and good oldfashioned hospitality. Rinjani Beach Eco Resort offers a cluster of spacious bungalows made of all-natural materials in welltended gardens right on Sire Beach, and an exceptional restaurant. Lounge by the pool or on the black sands, overlooking the Gilis. Karang Atas, Sokong; 62-819/3677-5960; lombok-adventures.com; deluxe doubles from Rp750,000. Gili Gede is one of Lombok’s “new” gilis—a smattering of white-sand islands to the southwest piquing the interest of backpackers who eschew the more popular trio. Head to super-chilled Madak Belo, with three rooms above a restaurant sharing a veranda with great ocean…

Christianshavn With its gabled houses and canals, this man-made island is a quiet escape in the heart of the city. Frederiksberg Come to this historic neighborhood to see the city’s Neoclassical architecture and to picnic at Frederiksberg Park. Frederiksstaden The 18th-century Amalienborg Palace anchors this waterfront quarter, which is lined with antiques shops. Indre By In the medieval center, you’ll find indie bars and cafés, along with luxury shops, museums and the Botanical Garden. Nørrebro A multiculti enclave north of downtown, Nørrebro has a creative, bohemian vibe. Vesterbro Trendy bars and clothing stores fill this former red-light district near Tivoli Gardens. Getting Around The metro (intl.m.dk) is expansive, and taxis are efficient. Copenhagen also has a great bikesharing program, Bycyklen (bycyklen.dk).…

1 In the Rococo building that once housed Denmark’s first public hospital, Designmuseum Danmark puts Danish design into historical perspective. Expect fresh insights on streamlined Poul Hennigsen lighting and Hans Wegner seating—along with a newly opened fashion and textile gallery. designmuseum.dk. 2 Far more intimate than Europe’s usual imperial palaces, the turreted 17thcentury Rosenborg Castle has three cozy floors with gilded chambers, chinoiserie and intricate tapestries. In warm months, pick up lunch to go from the smørrebrød shop Aamanns (aamanns.dk) and go for a picnic on the lush grounds. dkks.dk. 3 One of the Continent’s oldest amusement parks, Tivoli Gardens, is known for its lake, flower beds and Chinese pagodas. You’ll also find great shopping (Illums Bolighus has an outlet here), concerts and the new restaurant Kähler i Tivoli, where…

Aimee Chan — Writer “Family Special,” page 65 You wrote up five family travel trends. Name a sixth Gap years with kids. Pioneering families have quit their jobs, sold their houses and are traveling the world raising global citizens. More families will be taking sabbaticals, pulling the kids out of school for a bit and doing the kind of developing-country, backpacking-style travel they used to do in their 20s. Worst family travel experience? The first 24 hours of skiing with a preschooler and a baby, outside of Melbourne, was pretty hellish. Dragging unhappy children and multiple sets of gear and wet clothes through the snow in ski boots is not comfortable. Where is your brood headed next? Hopefully, Argentina. Ernest Goh — Photographer “On Lombok Time,” page 78 Each resort…

Eat For a humble lunch, you’ll find me at Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken (Stall 10-11, 1 Kadayanallur St.; chicken rice for two S$8) in the bustling Maxwell Food Centre. Almost every hawker around the city sells it, but it’s worth the lines to get it at this stall. When I’m in the mood for spicy Indonesianstyle curry, I head to Yanti Nasi Padang (45 Keong Saik Rd.; 65/6324-9268; lunch for two S$10) and order their killer rendang. A trip to Singapore isn’t complete without a fancy meal and for that I recommend Tippling Club (38 Tanjong Pagar Rd.; tipplingclub.com; tasting menus from S$160 per person). The food is modern and eclectic but always good, and the laid-back vibe really fits my style. Shop I like to shop for knickknacks in the vibrant Little…

We’ve had our share of rough run-ins with taxis over the years, from betel-leaf-spitting drivers in rainbow-hued cars in Bangkok to chain-smoking, obscenity-spewing shifus in Beijing, which is why we’re generally pro-Uber. In a powerhouse alliance, the app has paired up with Starwood Hotels, allowing Starwood Preferred Guest (SPG) members to rack up hotel rewards points whenever and wherever they call for a lift. As long as they stay at one of Starwood’s nine hotel brands at least once during the calendar year, regular SPG members earn one point per US$1 spent on Uber, with double points if they use Uber during a stay at a Starwood hotel. Platinum members who’ve stayed 75 eligible nights will earn quadruple points per US$1 spent on Uber during a hotel stay. The offer…

Speak Low This speakeasystyle bar offers a trio of distinct drinking dens. One level highlights familiar favorites with a twist (cinnamon-andcoconut-water coladas); another focuses on technique- heavy cocktails (shiso-infused tequila with plum salt); and the third is a whiskey club. 579 Fuxing Zhong Lu; 86-21/6416-0133. Heyday With its cushy banquettes, terrazzo floors and waitresses in qipaos, this justopened club is an homage to Shanghai’s 1930s jazz era, complete with vocalists crooning Billie Holiday and Ella Fitzgerald songs. Bostonian Aaron Feder, whose encyclopedic menu at the nearby El Ocho won high praise among local spirits geeks, serves a more edited list of creative libations here: try the chilivodka-based Heaven Built on Hell, ornamented with a brightly flavored cloud of raspberryorange foam—the perfect balance of spicy and sweet. 50 Tai’an Lu; heydayjazz.cn.…

Edge of Ember (edgeofember.com), a boutique accessory company with a conscience, supports local artisans by bringing their works to a global audience and donates 10 percent of its profits to stopping child-trafficking in Cambodia. The clean, elegant designs reference the communities that created them, as well as the wanderings of Lynette Ong, the brand’s Singaporean designer and creative director, who left a highpowered financial career to found the business. Two must-pack types of accessories? I can’t do without a pair of statement earrings and a simple ring that goes with everything, usually in silver to match my wedding ring. What places in Southeast Asia inspire your work? I traveled quite a bit during the five years I lived in Hong Kong. I saw such beautiful crafts in the local markets and…

BUILD A HOUSE IN CAMBODIA. Gather a few families together to construct a home for those who don’t have one. Tabitha, which has been organizing aid for the Khmer people for two decades, keeps its overhead costs low and makes sure most of the funds get to the folks who need them the most. It’s hard work, but you and your children will know that you’ve made a real difference. tabitha.org.au; groups pay their own travel costs and must contribute a combined A$1,700 for building materials. MOTHER MARSUPIALS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA. It’s not all about the ’roos, mate. Quolls, quendas and quokkas—also known as the Walpole Wilderness Area’s most adorable inhabitants—need your help. You and your teammates will be responsible for radio tagging the trio of curiously alliterative marsupials. Accommodations…

BABY K’TAN BREEZE This is one of the simplest designs to figure out—you slip it on like a T-shirt. The cotton-mesh hybrid is breathable, which helps keep you cool and collected even when the weather is willing you to wilt. It only comes in black and white, but those classics go with everything; plus isn’t the important thing that your outfit underneath stays stylishly sweat-free? babyktan.com; US$59.95. SAYA BABY CARRIER Nobody wants to jostle across the treacherous sidewalks of Manila with a stroller. Enter this homegrown Filipino brand, leading the charge on educating parents across the region about the benefits of baby-wearing. To sweeten the deal, SaYa baby wraps come in a huge variety of styles, backing up their slogan “A SaYa sling for every sanggol.” facebook.com/Sayababy; P1,400. BOBA WRAP…

“It’s easy to start a conversation with food,” says Dwight Turner, founder of In Search of Sanuk (insearchofsanuk.com), a Bangkok-based organization that aims to provide sustenance, housing and education to some of the city’s least privileged. “It’s a lot harder to open with ‘Some of these kids survived war.’” Judging from the curious faces, you’d never guess that these 20 or so young teens have already endured more hardship in their short lives than most people ever experience. Their backgrounds are varied, their stories long. Most of their parents are urban refugees who eke out a meager living as migrant workers in the outmost margins of Thai society. Today, though, this gaggle of adolescents has VIP access to the sun-splashed open kitchen of Opposite Mess Hall (oppositebangkok.com; dinner for two Bt1,000), one…

THE REAL BEACH Literary legend has it that the Ang Thong National Marine Park in the Gulf of Thailand provided the inspiration for Alex Garland’s novel The Beach rather than Koh Phi Phi—the place made famous by Leonardo DiCaprio’s visit in the film adaptation. Drawing parallels between the imaginary vision of an uncharted oceanic retreat and this archipelago of 40-plus islands is elementary. Only Koh Paluay, with its mountainous backdrop, is inhabited and, even here, all the locals are sea gypsies who still fish for a living. Some day trips include lunch in the village, where you can enjoy flashbacks of what Koh Samui used to be like before it landed on the mass-tourism map. If you visit the most precious emerald in Ang Thong’s tiara—a green, saltwater lake walled…

RELÆ Chef Christian Puglisi, a Noma alum, now has a cult following all his own. At the 40-seat Relæ, dishes like poached trout topped with raw mushroom shavings and a terrine of cucumber, nasturtium and umeboshi-style strawberries are spectacular in their simplicity. restaurant-relae.dk; four-course dinner Kr450 per person. NO. 2 This casual sibling of Michelinstarred AOC is perennially packed, thanks in part to its sleek Scandinavian aesthetic and views of the Black Diamond Library on the waterfront. But it’s the confident New Danish dishes (scallop tartare with pea tendrils and dill oil, steak with smoked bone marrow) that linger. nummer2.dk; Kr650. KUL Even die-hard Nordic food fans tire of kohlrabi and gooseberries, which is why this newcomer is such a hit. The inviting aroma of char fills the slate-toned dining…

At Lot #29 (lot29.dk) downtown, there’s a well-curated selection of Scandinavian and international clothing designers. In Amager, Andersens Contemporary (andersens contemporary.dk) shows works by big- name artists like Olafur Eliasson. For lunch, I love the smoked salmon and steak tartare at Lumskebugten (lumskebugten. dk; lunch for two Kr330), near the border of Frederiksstaden. When I want to escape town I go to Bellevue Beach north of the city. It has these incredible lifeguard towers designed by Arne Jacobsen. My favorite spots for breakfast are Café Det Vide Hus (45/6061-2002), which serves delicious coffee and avocado on toast, and Atelier September (atelier-september.dk), a stylish all-day café like the kind you’d find in London or TriBeCa, in New York City. In the spring, I like to go for a picnic at the King’s Garden, where you can…