Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2021 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

INDIA HAS BATTLED a devastating second wave of the coronavirus pandemic, which has affected all of us in one way or another. The last few months have probably been some of the toughest in the history of this country. Amid the tragic loss of life and the grief that most of us experienced first-hand, if there’s one thing that shone some light at the end of the tunnel, it was our collective belief, indomitable hope, and love for each other. And the support that came pouring from around the world. The July edition of Travel + Leisure India & South Asia presents a small slice of that global solidarity. In our special cover package #WhyWeLoveIndia (p.34), we have put together a tribute to this resilient country. Personalities who share a…

IT WAS A FEW MONTHS into the first lockdown in 2020, and ennui was beginning to set in. Crossing state borders was out of question, so I decided to explore my home state of Uttarakhand with a few fellow adventurers. And there was no better way to do it than hitting the trekking trails in the Gangotri region of the Himalayas. I chanced upon a photograph of Kedartal while browsing the Internet and knew instantly that this pristine lake, situated at an altitude of 4,750 metres, would be my destination. The trail to the glacial lake begins from Gangotri, a popular pilgrimage site. However, we gave the popular route alongside River Ganga a miss; it would’ve taken us towards Gaumukh, the pout of the Gangotri glacier and the origin of…

What do you miss most about India? India is and will always be home. Whenever [I’m] away, there is a constant longing to return to my country. Of course, there is my family and the people I hold close to my heart that I miss wholeheartedly, but also the beauty of the country. According to you, what’s the most special thing about India? One thing that’s truly special about India is the warmth of its people, as well as the energy, as it has such a vibrant and lively atmosphere… Not to forget the delicious food it offers! Speaking of food, can you recommend three dishes that one must try in the country? Although it’s almost impossible to pick only three dishes out of the abundance of delicious foods the…

What do you miss the most about India? My close friends and colleagues with whom I spend most of my time in India. However, when I travel for shows in India, I am always struck by the diversity and details that make each place unique. Each city has its own food, language, and customs, which makes travelling a pleasure. As an Indian living abroad, what is that one aspect of the country you try to hold on to? There is a general sense of community that you feel in India; it’s a part of the culture. I look for those qualities in my friends and the community I choose to build—both in India and abroad. What was it like growing up as an Indian in New York state in the…

Yoga and India are seen as synonymous with each other, especially in pop culture. What’s your take on this relationship? Yoga is a set of principles and processes that purifies the mind and body, and renders them fit for receiving self-knowledge. Over the years, many westerners have travelled to India, learned and practised with masters, and endeavoured to take these lessons back home. The teachings are available to all, irrespective of language, faith, or [place of] birth. Although the romantic notion remains that India is the place for yoga, this is not true. That said, many traditional schools of yoga continue to flourish in India and remain the destination of choice for committed seekers. How different are the perception and demand of yoga and related wellness offerings in India when…

IT’S BEEN SIX MONTHS since my trip to Gokarna, a quaint town in the southern Indian state of Karnataka, which is blessed with sun-kissed beaches as well as windswept hills. And yet, every time I look back on that road trip, I pinch myself. How did I see what I saw and how did I meet whom I met in just six days, without a plan and in the midst of a pandemic? It was 4.15 am on January 17, 2021. My partner and I hit National Highway 48 from Bengaluru, the city we live in, also the city that speeds off to Gokarna any chance it gets. I am not a ‘sun, sand, and sea’ person, so why was I heading to Gokarna for six days? One, because I…

A LITTLE LESS THAN five hours from Orchha by road, Khajuraho is fairly popular among tourists. While Orchha is an iconic remnant of the Bundela dynasty, Khajuraho has its roots in the Chandela era. It is best known for its UNESCO World Heritage Site: a collection of 23 Hindu and Jain temples—classified into western, eastern, and southern groups—and known collectively as the Khajuraho Group of Monuments. Dating back to the 10th and 11th centuries, these structures are rare surviving examples of the Nagara style of temple architecture. The most iconic and best-preserved temples fall under the western group, which also draws eyeballs with a unique set of erotic sculptures. Much like any novice in Khajuraho, I arrive at the western group brimming with curiosity. The temples—and their infamous erotica—often elicit…

How to Book an Air Ambulance in India? While we hope that you never have to use this guide, keeping it handy might just be a lifesaver. Here’s how you can contact an air ambulance in case of an emergency. travelandleisureindia.in/insight/how-to-book-an-airambulance-in-india-in-caseof-an-emergency Mumbai’s Dabbawalas to Get ₹15 Crore Relief Fund Hit badly by the pandemic and lockdowns, Mumbai’s dabbawalas can breathe a sigh of relief as HSBC India has pledged to provide them a COVID-19 relief fund. travelandleisureindia.in/covid-19/mumbais-dabbawalas-to-receive-inr-15-crore-funding-from-hsbcindia-covid-19-relief Indian Hotels Go Beyond the Call of Duty The fight against the pandemic has not been an easy one for the hospitality industry. However, some hotels across the country have gone the extra mile to help people in these adverse times. travelandleisureindia.in/covid-19/indian-hotels-stepup-to-provide-covid-19-relief SPOTTED British actor Amy Maghera on her tryst with Rajasthan during…

IN THE PAST FEW YEARS, my passion for craft has transformed how I travel. Without calling attention to itself in the way of art or architecture, craft quietly sits at the nexus of everything unique to a place: its landscape, notions of beauty and ritual, its history, its sufferings, and its hope. While craft is born of necessity—the making of the things we need to survive—almost every culture has also devised ways to make these things beautiful and delightful. Craft, I believe, is an expression of our common humanity, and yet it manifests in exquisitely varied and ingenious ways. Few places are as rich in this heritage as the city of Jaipur. In the 18th century, its ruler Sawai Jai Singh II brought artisans from all over the subcontinent to…

1. Chronomètre FB 1RS.6 FERDINAND BERTHOUD As part of a new business model, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is set to communicate the total number of units for each calibre it makes. The FB-T.FC-RS calibre is the first skeleton movement produced, and it will be limited to 20. This regulator-type chronometer movement with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission is inspired by Marine Clock No. 8, produced by the master watchmaker in Paris in 1768. Through the opening visible at 2 o’clock, a large-diameter sapphire disc indicates the hours, while minutes are read on the dial offset to 12 o’clock. 2. “Les Matinaux” Sunray Silver TRILOBE The introductory collection of Trilobe, Les Matinaux (‘The Mornings’ in French), is quirky and fun. The patented display, comprising three devices representing the hours, minutes, and seconds located…

KASHMIR DIARIES A writer, journalist, and events producer for the British Library, BEE ROWLATT lived in India from 2015 to 2018 and is a regular on the panels of the Jaipur Literature Festival. Within UK’s sealed borders, she and her family often leaned on their travel memories of India for comfort. KEEPING THE FAMILY distracted in lockdown had its challenges. Along with watching box sets and arguing, a favourite pass-time was the “if you could travel anywhere” conversation. Obviously, it’s always India (we lived there for the formative years of our kids’ lives) but where? Which would be the dream destination, once travel possibilities began to reopen? We debated the merits of Jaipur’s sun-lit walls, Tamil Nadu’s rolling coasts, the deodar pines of Mussoorie, beach breakfasts in Goa. In my…

What brought you to India the first time? What was your first impression? I was invited to be part of the Oz Fest in Delhi back in 2012. I instantly fell in love with the colours, sounds, culture, the wonderful sense of humour, and goodwill that India shares with Australia. And of course, the food was so exciting! My last visit was in November 2019. Which places in the country have you visited so far? I’ve been to India a number of times now; I think around 12. I’ve been to Jaipur, Jodhpur, and the big cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Bengaluru, Chennai, Hyderabad, and Kolkata. Which is your favourite Indian destination? I love Jodhpur; there’s something special about its sky and sunsets, maybe because it’s on the edge of the…

UDAIPUR, ON A HAZY November morning, is a mirage of fronds and white marble. The daily puja at Jagdish Temple is in full swing, both figuratively and literally—awash in oceanic ripples of saris, blooming in every last colour. Water droplets are cast from the altar, landing into the frenzy of the crowd; their mellifluous chants reverberate through the temple sanctum like little miracles. Here I am, standing along the edges of that crowd—a spectator entirely overwhelmed by this distillation of pure joy, of indulgent humanity. I watch as the individuals gathered here melt congruously into one entity, and it fascinates me in a way only India can: the unabashed wonder at life’s idiosyncrasies, and the preservation of centuries-old history so tactile it bears resemblance to taste. I am floored by…

How are you connected to India? Both my mother and father were Indians. They were born in Hyderabad, Sindh, which is now a part of Pakistan. Their families moved to Bombay (now, Mumbai) during the Partition. India and its culture have been big parts of my life and upbringing, whether it was an annual trip back or just aspects of the country that remained in our home. What do you miss the most? I love the sheer variety throughout the country, the scale, the incredible nature, and the guiding spirituality that has such an important influence on so many people. I also love the resilience of the people, and their innate happiness, gratitude, and love for life. I miss my trips to Rishikesh, as I usually try to spend a…

I AM A CITY GIRL who loves her occasional getaway to the mountains and beaches. I enjoy everything, from bare-bones camping to whiskies in infinity pools. But I always return to the chaotic, fast-paced life of the city. This changed when I found myself on a 10-day road trip through eastern and central Arunachal Pradesh as part of the Trans-Arunachal Drive 2021. For motoring and off-roading enthusiasts, the Trans-Arunachal Highway (NH13), currently under construction, is a dream stretch. It covers 2,407 kilometres, and is proposed to connect Tawang in the west to Kanubari in the east. The Trans-Arunachal route takes you through regions untouched by commercial tourism, from crystal-clear gurgling rivers to forests too dense for the sunlight to penetrate. It makes for an experience of a lifetime. LAND OF…

THE FORECAST couldn’t have been gloomier. December 12: rain. December 13: rain. December 14, the day of the solar eclipse I’d travelled 8,851 kilometres to see: more rain. I’d flown on the 11th, mid-pandemic, sitting masked up on a tense flight from New York to Santiago, then on to Temuco, in southern Chile. Of course I had registered the dour weather predictions before boarding, but after nine months of house bondage, I didn’t care. The idea of perfect conditions or a perfect experience had long since fallen off the menu. Throughout history, eclipses have been interpreted as cosmic, spiritual resets. Folklore from Scandinavia and Asia to the Americas depicts these events as a battle between light and dark, with the moon (or other malevolent actors like wolves, bears, frogs, or…

I CLICKED THIS PHOTO at Rajaji Tiger Reserve, in the state of Uttarakhand. I visit these woods regularly for photography. That day it started raining suddenly, so taking pictures became a challenge. The camera needed to be protected and focussing on subjects was difficult. I took shelter under a tree and tried to focus my lens on this Indian roller, which had fluffed up its feathers in response to the shower. After a few attempts, I got the frame I was looking for. -ASHOK SIKRI ON HIS PHOTOGRAPH, SHOT WITH A NIKON D750 AND TAMRON 150-600MM IN JUNE 2021 Ashok Sikri was an entrant in our ongoing ‘Your Best Shot’ contest. Submit your best shots at tplusl@burda.in, or use the hashtag #telltnlindia and tag @travelandleisureindia on Instagram, to stand a…

1 Munsiyari UTTARAKHAND Located in the Pithoragarh district of Uttarakhand, Munsiyari is a quaint hamlet located at an altitude of 2,290 metres. Fenced by Indian borders with China and Nepal, Munsiyari was a restricted area until recently. Ever since it became accessible, the village has been serving as a base camp for treks to Milam Glacier, Khaliya Top, Ralam Glacier, Nanda Devi Base Camp, and Chiplakot Bugyal. Blessed with views of the snow-capped Panchachuli peaks, the hamlet also makes for an ideal destination for a slow holiday. Visit the Tribal Heritage Museum here to learn about the local crafts, culture, and traditions. uttarakhandtourism.gov.in 2 Bhedaghat MADHYA PRADESH A recent addition to the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Bhedaghat is a little town set along River Narmada. Approximately 20 kilometres from…

What is non-negotiable when building a global hospitality brand? The hospitality industry is a people-centric sector, and putting people first is paramount to what we do. I believe the power of a great team is a business’s greatest resource. Another non-negotiable when building a global hospitality brand is having a great product and service. Our growth is credited to a flexible business model that can be tailored to meet the needs of the partner hotels. Our global portfolio includes 20 hotel brands that are globally recognised, and each has a rich history, unique design, and voice. We also have the world’s most generous rewards programme, with 86 million enrolled members. What’s your strategy for the EMEA region? EMEA is a diverse and large division with vast opportunities. With this in…

You’ve been living outside India for nearly two decades. What do you miss about the country? Obviously, family comes to mind first, and my memories of childhood, specifically of my mother who has had such a huge influence on me and my path to becoming a creative individual. My life there [in India] with my parents and siblings, my friends, those summer evenings with power cuts, the street foods—these memories became super precious to me soon after I left India. The past year of being unable to see my family and spend time in India has deepened my appreciation for so many things, from the food and the lights and colours to the people and the sense of spirit and community. We recently lost my beloved brother at the age…

I’VE BEEN TO THE Taj Mahal four times. How very lucky I am, to write that sentence as an American woman. But it is the truth. I’ve seen the Taj with and without scaffolding; with and without a layer of dust on the cool, pale ivory marble; with and without crowds lining the lush pathways; with and without a cell phone to document my very presence. My first trip was in 1982, as a small child just able to walk. My parents, avid adventurers and lovers of India, carted me around the world with them, refusing to have me stay home. I still believe this was the best education. Our travels within India took us to New Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur, Udaipur, Srinagar, and Thiruvananthapuram—all before I had even turned five.…

When was the first time you visited India, and how would you describe your connection with the country? I visited India in 2003 with the design entrepreneur Stephanie Odegard, who had asked me to develop a line of furniture with the master craftsmen of Rajasthan, especially those of Udaipur, for their tradition of marble sculpture and silver-clad furniture. I immediately felt a connection with them. The language difference vanished, replaced by the vocabulary that we had in common: that of applied art. It became an advantage, allowing us to get closer, to connect and understand each other spontaneously and passionately through their skills and my vision. My connection with India is primarily through my creative work and the many relationships that have been forged over almost 20 years of dialogue…

WALKING AND CYCLING through the villages and rolling countryside along the Chhattisgarh and Madhya Pradesh borders have been among the most extraordinary privileges of my work. I feel incredibly lucky to have been able to share with guests the warm hospitality that has been shown to us; the pulling out of a charpoy in someone’s courtyard and offers of tea; the giggling troupes of schoolchildren waving us on our way; the punctures mended, and bicycle tyres pumped. Passing through places using one’s own two feet, be they walking or peddling, makes the great gulf between wealthy foreigner and low-income farming families a tiny bit less stark than if one rolls up in a big shiny car. Though a bemused ‘Aapki gaadi kahaan hai?’ (‘Where’s your car?’) is an oft heard…

DAY 1 OLD IS GOLD IN Orchha A WIDE STRETCH OF River Betwa flowing in front of my guesthouse is a sight for sore eyes. It is mid-afternoon, but the gentle breeze on the riverbank mellows the sun’s gaze. The placid water body, stretched like a panorama on either side, and the deserted riverbank betray Orchha’s laid-back vibe. Home to roughly 10,000 people, the sleepy little town feels far removed from the worries of modern life. “Small town, small problems. But everyone knows everyone’s problems,” laughs the local guide showing us around. Until the 16th century, the town of Orchha didn’t exist. The semi-arid jungles of the Vindhya Range dominated this terrain. It is not hard to picture that time, especially from one of the many vantage points in town. As…