Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2019 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

“Food is not rational. Food is culture, habit, craving and identity.” American novelist Jonathan Safran Foer’s take on food succinctly establishes the relevance of diet in our lives. Over the years, gastronomic travel has risen in resonance among travellers all over the world, and food has become the leitmotif of tourism itineraries. This edition of Travel + Leisure India & South Asia is a treat to all the gourmand vagabonds who seek the best eateries in the world. Embark on this culinary journey with our finely curated list of the world’s 10 most exclusive meals (p. 12). When it comes to dining in the Big Apple, the one name that comes to mind instantly is Padma Lakshmi—cookbook author, TV personality, and ardent traveller. In our cover story (p. 86), Padma…

SPRAWLED OVER 15 ACRES of tropical gardens, along Seminyak Beach, The Oberoi Beach Resort, Bali, surprises guests with its tranquil setting for the buzzing region it is located in. Built in 1972-and acquired by The Oberoi Group in 1978›it was the first resort in the region and was once surrounded by endless paddy fields and villages. Although the environs have transformed over the years, with the rise of boutiques, bars, and restaurants, the property has managed to retain its trademark sense of calm. Inside the premises, the resort recreates the features of a traditional Balinese village. Think thatched roofs, gardens dotted with ancient temples, a natural-stone amphitheatre, and traditional performances. The 74 Luxury Villas and Lanai Rooms come furnished with embellishments and motifs that are emblematic of Bali’s heritage. With…

WHEN I MET AUSTRALIAN Chef Sarah Todd during her brief visit to New Delhi recently, she had barely come to terms with a devastating fire that ravaged her Goa-based restaurant, Antares, in January this year. Still visibly shaken by the incident, the Mackay-born model-turned-chef says she is determined to reopen the 250-seater al fresco restaurant later this year, with an all-new menu and interiors. “I’m blown away by the kind of support I’ve received. People from Denmark, UK, Dubai, Australia, etc.-who’ve been to Antares-reached out to me and expressed their support.” So, how’s this new restaurant going to look? “While Antares was initially designed using a lot of earthen colours and natural elements, like bamboo and wood, this time the interiors will be a tad brighter-with more of white and…

MELT PIZZABAR This Anjuna pizzeria makes my cut on the basis of my meals here when it opened in spring 2018. The wood-fired pizza was exactly what I relished when I lived in Rome, perhaps even better. In the months since, the restaurant expanded on its offerings—resulting in some questionable detours—but pizza still remains boss. With a tighter menu, less optic time on cocktails, and focus on pizza, Melt could become our local pizzeria of panache.facebook.com/meltpizzabar UDDO LIFE SUNSET BAR & KITCHEN This is not a gourmet joint. But it’s so gloriously located in a quiet lane in Siolim, overlooking a small beach, I head here for the gloaming light. Come sundown and it’s absurdly romantic, and when their Russian DJ spins a set, I feel sent up to a…

AS FAR AS VISITOR STORIES GO, Dubai comes across as an abundance of lavish malls and desert safaris. None of these interested me. Tasting local food is integral to my experience of a new destination. But as a vegetarian visiting Dubai for the first time, I knew that traditional Emirati cuisine, which comprises mostly meat dishes, would not be my cup of tea. On my way, I resorted to dreams of finding the best hummus of my life. In Dubai, the locals make up just about 20 per cent of the population, the rest being a global mix of expats. Its culinary culture is, thus, a smorgasbord of cuisines. The Dubai Food Festival—held in February every year—was a good place to start exploring. As a guest of the Dubai Tourism…

“GET ME TWO BOTTLES,” said my friend, when I told him I was set to travel to Ireland. He meant the world-famous Irish whiskey, of course. This drink from the Emerald Isle finds many aficionados across the globe. Mark Twain once famously said, “Too much of anything is bad, but too much good whiskey is barely enough.” Twain’s Irish contemporary and Nobel laureate George Bernard Shaw called the drink ‘liquid sunshine’. For one, I prefer medium- or light-bodied wines with a fruity, sweet finish to any other drink. But I was eager to explore the history of the Irish whiskey, which is as complex as its country of origin. Called uisce beatha in the native Gaelic language, it translates to ‘water of life’. But how could whiskey be the water…

GETTING THERE & AROUND: Fly to Lisbon with Emirates (emirates.com) or Lufthansa (lufthansa.com) from major Indian cities. With no direct connections, flights take around 13 hours with one short stopover in Dubai or Frankfurt. The metro is the easiest, fastest, and most popular mode of transport in Lisbon, followed by buses and trams. Some of the historical parts of the city can be reached by funiculars. Cab services like Uber (uber.com) and Taxify (bolt.eu) are also available. WHERE TO STAY: Four Seasons Hotel Ritz: A city landmark, the Ritz has its own collection of Portuguese art displayed around the hotel and an app to guide visitors through their history. From 48,200; fourseasons.com Olissippo Lapa Palace: Set amidst sub-tropical gardens overlooking the River Tagus, the Lapa Palace offers luxurious rooms in…

Steff Houlberg, a processed meats brand that began in 1889, offers three types of hot dogs-the French hot dog, the ristet hot dog med det hele, and rød pølse med brød. The first one is basically a grilled sausage in a pocket of bread with your choice of dressing. The second one is a grilled sausage in a classic hot-dog bun served with mustard, ketchup, and remoulade, topped with onion and pickle. The rød pølse is a red sausage that is boiled and served with your choice of dressing and a piece of white bread on the side.…

CAVA, SPAIN’S SIGNATURE sparkling wine, originated roughly 150 years ago in the quietly prosperous Catalan town of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. If you visit today, you can see its impact everywhere. There’s the sleek CIC Fassina Cava Interpretation Center, housed in a 19th -century distillery that once transformed the effervescent wine into brandy. Giant barrels and other wine-inspired objects sit in roundabouts and town squares; bottle-shaped bollards on the sidewalks protect pedestrians. On the outskirts of Sant Sadurní, large bodegas run by mainstream producers, including Freixenet and Recaredo, loom over the landscape. At harvest time, slow-moving tractors churn along the narrow roads, the shoulders of which bear stains from dripping juice. Sant Sadurní lies at the heart of cava country, in Penedès, a sprawling region that runs from the sea to…

GETTING THERE Fly from any Indian metro city to Florence or Pisa, and then take a cab or a bus to reach San Miniato. Via Francigena can be tread on foot or bike, and multiple operators offer excursions. For more information, see viefrancigene.org. STAY Historically, pilgrims on the Via Francigena have stayed overnight at abbeys and monasteries. I stayed partially true to that tradition, with some luxe indulgences. Luxury Hotels Florence: Hotel Savoy starts from 34,054 per night; roccofortehotels.com Siena: Castel Monastero starts from 37,459; castelmonastero.com Montecatini Terme: Montecatini Palace & Spa starts from 10,896; montecatinipalace.com Boutique B&Bs San Gimignano: Torraccia di Chiusi starts from 8,590; torracciadichiusi.it San Gimignano: La Cisterna Hotel starts from 7,275; hotelcisterna.it Abbeys and Hostels Gambassi Terme: Ostello Sigerico starts from 4,334; ostellosigerico.it/joomla Abbadia Isola: Ostello…

ONE BALMY tropical evening, my girlfriend, Michelle, and I sat down at Khao Horm, an unpretentious southern-Thai restaurant on the island of Koh Samui. When we asked the waiter what to order, he recommended one of the region’s greatest hits: kaeng som soup. “It’s spicy,” he told us, as though nothing more needed to be said. “Can we order it mildly spicy?” I asked. “No,” he said with a frown, flipping his pad shut. “Okay, we’ll try it however you think best,” Michelle said. After we had grazed on bai liang pad khai—paper-thin, garlicky local greens stir-fried with scrambled egg—and moo pad kapi—pork in a shrimp paste strewn with whole red and green chillies—the kaeng som soup arrived. We could see, among the pieces of fresh fish and thin slices…

The French capital is a world unto itself. But if you’re here for gastronomic delights, it’s advisable to stay near the heart of the city. GETTING THERE Air India (airindia.in) and Air France (airfrance.com) operate direct flights to Paris. STAY Hôtel de Crillon is one of the most extravagant Parsian hotels in the heart of the city (doubles from 83,899; rosewoodhotels. com). Those looking for a more modern appeal may check in at Le Roch Hotel & Spa (doubles from 30,022; leroch-hotel.com). And the almost secretive San Régis comes with the best of luxury (doubles from 48,575; hotel-sanregis.fr).…

WITH THE ICC CRICKET World Cup 2019 approaching fast, there’s ample reason to book a ticket to London. Host to some decisive encounters this year, including the final at Lord’s, London is a great summer destination. And while you may not need any more reasons to head there, we have one regardless. UK’s most prestigious garden show, The RHS Chelsea Flower Show—held annually by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS)—is set to begin its five-day bloom on May 21. The show is attended by members of the British royal family as well as visitors from across the globe, who arrive in London to admire spectacular exhibits from the world’s top florists and nurseries. The flower show was first held in 1862 as RHS Great Spring Show, at the RHS Garden in…

AFRICA IS NOT SHORT on places that evoke the romance of travel. From Marrakesh to Mombasa, the continent abounds with destinations that major in assaulting the senses while delivering transformative journeys for the soul. Yet, few cities cast quite as potent a spell as Cairo. Known to Egyptians as Umm Ad Dunya—the Mother of the World—the sprawling capital on the River Nile has a multi-level persona that has evolved layer upon layer for millennia. A walk around the old walled city and citadel will reveal ancient bazaars such as Khan el Khalili as well as one of the greatest concentrations of historical monuments of Islamic architecture in the world. It’s even possible to catch a glimpse even further back in time to Roman times when present-day Cairo was occupied…

SPOTTED Actress Ira Dubey was in the Maldives recently with her girl gang, and gave us some serious #beachvacaygoals. We caught up with the talented actor for a quick chat on how she likes her holidays. travelandleisureindia.in/ ira-dubey-beach-holiday DISCOVER An archipelago located between the coast of North Africa and Sicily, Malta teems with historic sites that include forts, temples, burial chambers, and more. travelandleisureindia.in/ discover-malta/ #TELLTNLINDIA THIS PICTURE OF THE TUMPAK SEWU WATERFALLS IN EAST JAVA, INDONESIA, SHOT BY @ALI_OLFAT, PUTS US IN A TRANCE. TO GET FEATURED HERE, TAG @TRAVELANDLEISUREINDIA ON INSTAGRAM AND USE THE HASHTAG #TELLTNLINDIA. Download Travel + Leisure India & South Asia digital editions, and follow us for the best in hotels, food, style, culture, and trends. travelandleisureindia tnlindia tnlindia traveleisurein NOTE: ALL PRICES MENTIONED IN…

GLOBETROTTER ARNOLD & SON If you share the Brits’ affinity of gin, choose to wear the Arnold & Son Globetrotter as you sip on The Botanist. Inspired by the high-precision marine chronometers made by English watchmaker John Arnold and his son towards the end of the 18th century, the watch reimagines the world-time function in three dimensions. At 45 mm wide and 17.23 mm at its highest point, it features one of the world’s largest rotating 3D world-time displays on a wristwatch. 11,17,500 ELEGANCE COLLECTION GRAND SEIKO Pair the complex flavours of the fragrant Junmai Ginjo with another Japanese icon. Celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive movement, Grand Seiko is set to launch a new series with a refined and slim profile. The four watches feature two new…

CHEF HESTON BLUMENTHAL- British celebrity chef, author, and TV show host-belies every preconceived notion of his star status. When I meet him at Romano’s in JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar for Masters of Marriott, he immediately puts me at ease with an experiment. First, he asks me to think of someone I love and take a sip of red wine, followed by another sip after I’ve thought of someone unpleasant. The same wine tastes smoother in the first instance, and more acidic and tougher to swallow in the next. “I find that [this experiment] works for food and drink with a spectrum of flavour profiles... we don’t realise the difference our feelings make to the taste of things.” Blumenthal’s gastronomic adventures boil down to one thing: question everything. And he wears…

When did you start cooking? I started when I was 13-the first meal I made was 20 aloo ke parathe, with some help, for my entire family. I used to watch Chef Sanjeev Kapoor’s food shows with my grandparents... my family would wait for me to cook on certain days, and it became a thing. I came to choose my career after [Class] 12-my grandfather suggested I enrol in a hotel management school to become a chef. I trained for three years in the Institute of Hotel Management Aurangabad. Who were your role models? I looked up to to chefs Vineet Bhatia, Sanjeev Kapoor, and Manish Mehrotra. I’ve taken inspiration from Jamie Oliver too. The way he teaches is amazing. What do you do to blow off steam? There is…

GETTING THERE The only way to reach Spiti is by road, via Manali or Shimla. The distance between Manali and Kaza is 201 kms. A four-wheel drive is recommended. WHERE TO STAY There’s nothing better than pitching your own tent in the wilderness. If you want to save yourself the trouble, stay at one of the campsites, like Spiti Expedition Tour and Travels Camps (+91-9418401551) or Tenzin Camps (+91-8988313473) at Chandra Taal. Hotel Deyzor (from 2,600; hoteldeyzor.com) is a good option in Kaza. Langza has plenty of options-try Banjara Camps (from 2,450; banjaracamps. com). There’s only one guesthouse and few homestays in Komic. Ask your trip organiser to arrange the overnight stay. SEASON The best months are June to September, as winters can be chilly and some routes are blocked.…

Mojigao: Darling treehouse-like location, handsome bread; menu needs a spit and polish. Baba’s Wood Cafe: Owned by the charming Maria Grazia, its salmon with rocket and the pasta selection is unfailingly delish. Burger Factory: Out on Morjim Beach, I go to watch millennials break up over pitcher cocktails (forgive the service woes here). Matcha: A tiny tin shed in Anjuna, it’s Japanese, authentic, minimal, and whimsical. La Botanique: With a French chef who knows her Sunday roast, we’re glad it is open year-round. Flour Power Bakeria: An Indo-Swiss couple bake everything by hand, including the best sourdough in Goa.…

PERCHED ON A LOW WOODEN stool inside a restaurant in the northern Ethiopian town of Axum, I’m enthralled by the eskista performance unravelling in front of me. It features intense shoulder movements synced with folk tunes. In the foreground, a well-dressed man digs into a large plate of food to tear off a portion of grey flatbread, rolls it in meat stew, and feeds his partner. As she gobbles it down, a smile spreads across her face. This act of feeding someone with your hands is called gursha, a way of expressing love in Ethiopia, and it’s no surprise that it features food. In Ethiopia, eating is an art form, a communal exercise whose centrepiece is the large sourdough bread injera. The pancake lookalike is made of teff, the planet’s…

GETTING THERE There are one-stop flights daily from major Indian cities like Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, Bengaluru, and Kochi, to Dublin. STAY The Westin Dublin: The Irish Whiskey Museum is a stone’s throw away from this luxury hotel at College Green. The hotel was built in the Georgian era, and once housed a bank. From 19,000; marriott.com The Shelbourne Dublin, A Renaissance Hotel: Located in the city centre, this hotel is opposite St Stephen’s Green. From 27,000; marriott.com The Westbury Hotel: Situated in prime location, this plush hotel serves the best Irish food and drinks in its restaurants. From 21,000; the-westbury. thedublinhotels.com WHISKEY TOURS Irish Whiskey Museum: Tours run every 30 minutes, from 10.30 am to 5.30 pm. A one-hour guided Classic Tour with tasting from 1,615; Whiskey Blending Experience from…

ON A CHILLY WINTER AFTERNOON, we gathered in the howz khaneh (pond house), now found in a handful of traditional Persian homes, with large glass windows, divan seating, and a cupboard stacked with ancient musical instruments. As soulful Persian folk music wafted out of a record player, I tried dizi for the first time. A signature Persian dish consisting of mashed kidney beans and lima beans, flavourful broth, and warm barbari bread. Over the last two weeks in Iran, I had been told—by host families and restaurants alike—that dizi couldn’t be cooked without meat, that the dish was also known as abgoosht (literally, water with meat). But here, at Khalvat House (khalvathouse.com) in Isfahan—a guesthouse run by a group of passionate, young, vegan Iranians—my hosts assured me that dizi gets…

GETTING THERE Multiple airlines serve one-stop flights to Barcelona. From there, Sant Sadurní d’Anoia is an easy 45-minute drive. STAY The light-filled Hotel Mastinell (doubles from 15,575; hotel mastinell.com), in Vilafranca del Penedès, nods to Modernista architect Antoni Gaudí. Mas Palou (doubles from 7,824; maspalou.com), in El Pla del Penedès, and Hotel Castel de Gimenelles (doubles from 7,485; gimenelles.com), in Sant Jaume dels Domenys, typify charming Catalan masias. EAT AND DRINK Near Vilafranca, you can visit the vineyard Can Ràfols dels Caus (can rafolsdelscaus.com ). Close to Torrelavit, there’s Pardas (celler pardas.com ), and just outside Sant Sadurní, you’ll find Cavas Codorníu (codorniu. com). The latter is also home to heritage chocolatier Simón Coll (simoncoll.com). In Sant Pau d’Ordal, enjoy a regional feast at Cal Xim (entrées from 762; +34-938993092),…

GETTING THERE Many airlines service Bangkok from all major Indian cities. From there, flights to the south are inexpensive and easy to book. We flew to Koh Samui first, and from there to Phuket, where we connected by car and boat to Yao Noi, before circling back to Phuket. Bangkok We stayed at the iconic Mandarin Oriental Bangkok (doubles from 58,650; mandarinoriental.com), which recently updated its classic rooms. Ours, in the Garden Wing, had floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Chao Phraya River. A ferry took us across the water to the hotel’s beloved restaurant, Sala Rim Naam. Don't miss a meal at Khua Kling Pak Sod (entrées from 417; khuaklingpaksod.com), a southern-food-oriented chain endorsed by the Michelin Guide. Koh Samui Our base was the Cape Fahn Hotel (villas from 55,533; slh.com),…

WHILE MONTREAL THRUMS with all the energy you would expect from a city famed as a cultural juggernaut, life in its near neighbor tends to move as sedately as the flow of the lazy Yamaska River, which it overlooks. But that’s not to say that St Hyacinthe isn’t dynamic in its own unassuming way. Known around Canada as one of the country’s leading agri-food centers, it possesses a treasure trove of draws that includes a wealth of outdoor activities, historic buildings and intriguing boutiques. GOURMAND MORNINGS As the fulcrum of a vast agricultural region, meanwhile, the city is deservedly winning kudos for its culinary scene with the abundance of fresh produce from the area showcased at some of Canada’s most enticing markets as well as a clutch of excellent dining…

Meet Shivya Nath: The Shooting Star Check out this insightful and heart-warming interview with the very inspiring Shivya Nath. She opens up about her love for sustainable travel and blogging. travelandleisureindia.in/ travel-blogger-shivya-nath Lakshmi Sharath Shares Her Writing Process She started her journey in 2005 with her blog, Travel with Lakshmi. Little did she know that in a couple of years, she would become a source of inspiration for women travellers across the country. travelandleisureindia.in/ lakshmi-sharath Aamir Wani Shows Kashmir Valley In A New Light Aamir Wani aka Kashmir Through My Lens shares his journey, his knack for travelling, and the need to present beauty of every day life in the Kasmir Valley to the world. travelandleisureindia.in/ aamir-wani-kashmir-throughmy-lens-interview…

THE NEW ORLEANS-based Hotel Monteleone (hotelmonteleone. com) was adjudged the biggest winner of the first edition of I Prefer Members Choice Awards from over 650+ hotels worldwide. The one-of-a-kind award allows the members of I Prefer loyalty programme to pick their preferred hotels and resorts based on the highest standards of excellence, and the deliverance of exceptional experiences to I Prefer members. The hotels were divided in four regional categories: Asia Pacific, Middle East, and Africa (APMEA); United States; Europe; and Caribbean, Central, and South America. Besides Hotel Monteleone, additional top honours went to Pulitzer Amsterdam (pulitzeramsterdam. com), Royal Plaza on Scotts (royalplaza.com.sg) in Singapore, and Half Moon (halfmoon.com) in Jamaica across different regions. “We are thrilled to give our valuable I Prefer members a platform from which they can…

EVER SINCE 2013, when I visited Estonia in summer, I wanted to see it clad in snow. So, I planned a second trip in early spring last year, a three-day road trip across Estonia. My first base was the capital, Tallinn. A stroll in the Old Town, surrounded by colourful buildings, was akin to a wormhole into the past. There were fewer tourists as compared to summer. The next morning, my friends, Kadri and Herman, and I rented a car from a local rental and kicked off our road trip. Our first stop was the second largest town of Estonia, Tartu. Home to one of Northern Europe’s oldest universities, Tartu has a wealth of museums and an upbeat nightlife. As soon as you arrive, you are welcomed by a statue…

1 It’s only a season old but Anjuna’s sparkling new addition, Mahe, has set a new bar for marvellous in Goa. Be it the exquisite decor-a solicitously restored old house with echoes of Geoffrey Bawa-or its refined culinary vision. I was floored by the aubergine recheado and the Sri Lankan mutton curry. To hold on to their newly minted tiara, Mahe must persist with the spectacular quality: in Goa, indolence often interrupts steadiness. Regardless of its future, Mahe, what an awesome entrance! 2 Why is La Plage so consistently excellent? Perhaps because the French owners run their own show, manning the kitchen and serving the dishes themselves. The Moroccan-style chicken, a Monday special, is a fave, while the paella on Thursday is total jazz. The staff is attentive, the decor…

GETTING THERE Ethiopian Airlines operates direct flights from Mumbai and Delhi to the capital, Addis Ababa, daily. It also offers massive discounts on internal flights to those who arrive in the country with it. STAY Addis Ababa Radisson Blu: An upscale accommodation in the heart of the city. Doubles from 14,000; radissonblu Axum Sabean International Hotel: A clean, mid-range hotel with WiFi and other amenities. Doubles from 6,000 EAT & DRINK Addis Ababa • 2000 Habesha Cultural Restaurant for a classic meal; 2000habesha.com • Kategna Restaurant, Bole, for the best vegan platter and doro wat; kategnaaddis.com • Yimana Kitfo for a Gurage meal; Megenangna, near Zefmesh Mall. • Tomoca Cafe for the best cup of coffee; tomocacoffee.com Axum • Antica Traditional House for beer, local food, and cultural performances; 0914-172003…

PORTUGAL HAS RISEN THROUGH the ranks of tourism hotspots gradually, and then all of a sudden. From hosting the UEFA European Football Championship in 2004 to winning the Championship in 2016, it has been attracting more and more foreign tourists every year, with the number exceeding 12 million recently. Winning the Eurovision title two years ago and hosting last year’s edition of the contest also helped capture global attention for lesser-known areas like Madeira, Azores, and Sintra. Now that Lisbon has been named home of the Web Summit for the next 10 years, all roads well and truly lead to this part of the Iberian Peninsula. I found myself in the Portuguese capital a couple of months ago for a conference. A friend picked me up from the airport and…

A must-try signature dish on the cruise is the chocolate journey rocher-a blend of chocolate, pralines, and hazelnut ice cream sealed in milk chocolate and surrounded by crushed, candied hazelnuts. This was specially created for Princess Cruises by award-winning master chocolatier Norman Love. Traditionally served as a side to meaty dishes, and sometimes dropped into soups, spätzle can be transformed into a simple but delicious main by adding Emmentaler or some other Swiss cheese to make what’s often referred to as the ‘German macaroni cheese’.…

Get the HappyCow app. It maps vegan and vegan-friendly diners near you. • Research the local cuisine beforehand for vegan options or dishes that can be customised. • Connect with local vegans through Facebook groups, Instagram, and Airbnb. • Learn how to ask for vegan food—what you can’t and can eat—in the local language. Or get a local to write it down. • Stock up on vegan snacks and energy bars. • Stay in a homestay or an apartment with access to a kitchen. • Be open to new flavours and unfamiliar plant-based ingredients. • Talk about your choices in a respectful way.…

ON A BRIGHT OCTOBER MORNING, I found myself standing on a panoramic point overlooking the Arno Valley, draped in a series of small hills with cypress and olive trees in the heart of Tuscany. “San Miniato, where you are standing right now, has been on a crossroads since the Middle Ages. Due to its strategic location, it was a bone of contention between Florence and Pisa. As it lies roughly 20 miles (32 kilometres) away from each of them, it earned the name ‘20 miles town’,” explained Erica Masani, my guide. It was my first day of walking the Via Francigena trail with S-cape Travel; my 10 companions came from around the world. Like the pilgrims of yesteryear, we slowed down to the pace of the 10th century, swapping diesel…