Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2019 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

A new year always brings with it a bevy of hopes, expectations, and resolutions. And 2019 is no different. For us, at Travel + Leisure India & South Asia, it is imperative that we preach and practise what stands for optimism, courage, and a brighter future. Whether it’s introducing wellness as a way of life, or travelling with a clear conscience. Our first issue of 2019 upholds the key values that we will strive towards through the year. Starting this issue, T+L India & South Asia will bring to the table a definitive guide to wellness and spas from across the globe. After all, can a holiday ever be complete without some serious R&R? Our introductory section lets you in on some of the most unique treatments you must try…

WARMERS: A jacket with woollen lining, a thick muffler, sweater, a lightweight wind-cheater, merino wool long-johns, socks and gloves, a shawl, and a knitted cap are must-haves. RAIN- AND SNOW-PROOF: Rain is unpredictable in the Northeast. Don’t forget to carry a foldable umbrella, a bright-coloured reusable raincoat, snow boots, and natural rubber gumboots (say no to PVC, please!). ACCESSORIES: Do carry your anti-glare goggles, cotton scarf, earmuffs, stockings, pocket watch, passport holder, hiking pole, jute backpack, set of Swiss Army knives, multi-purpose flashlight, pocket map, a pair of Bluetooth headphones, and compass in case you’re up for a hike. GROOMING: Say a big yes to sunblock with a minimum of SPF 30. Carry a moisturiser and a chapstick. Throw in a bottle of body oil, soap strips, mild shampoo and…

STAY The DoubleTree by Hilton Goa-Panaji opened its doors in October. The Presidential Suite with private terrace, elevator, and Jacuzzi is apt for families. Guest rooms start from 7,800; doubletree3.hilton.com EXPERIENCES The concierge arranges customised itineraries for guests. Birdwatching in the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary and exploring Charão and Divar islands are recommended; visit the Sahakari Spice Farm to shop for souvenirs. EAT The all-day restaurant, Comida, serves Goan and Mangalorean thalis. Feliz offers kokum-based cocktails. Try the signature dishes like chicken shakouti, prawn balchao, bhindi bardez, bebinca, etc.…

TO BEGIN WITH THE BEST, or to save it for the last—I often find myself wondering when I sit down to tell a story. But as I look back at my time in Ladakh, going through the photographs in my phone, I struggle to find an experience that stands out. The graph of my trip was rather linear, it seems—places were explored and experiences unveiled at a steady pace, day after day. And even though it was my first time in Ladakh, it didn’t feel so. I had read and heard, even written, so much about the region that most of what I saw felt familiar. I could recognise the Thiksey Monastery at first glance; I knew the pink tea would taste like butter; I anticipated that a visit to…

To reach American Prairie Reserve, fly in to Billings, Bozeman, or Great Falls, all at least four hours away. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended. The accommodations range from high-end to bare-bones. To book, visit americanprairie.org KESTREL CAMP The five private yurts are decked out with feather beds and corduroy armchairs. Guided nature tours and chef-prepared meals are part of the package. Two-night stays from 14,000 per person PN RANCH Two double-yurt compounds are open for bookings. These comfortable, self-catering lodgings provide access to a 47,000-acre former ranch. Yurts from 8,700 BUFFALO CAMP Its platform-tent sites, which have bathroom facilities, are a five-minute drive from the Enrico Education & Science Center. The Charles M Russell National Wildlife Refuge nearby is a birdwatching site. Campsites start from 700…

GETTING THERE There are no direct flights between Indian cities and Sofia. Aeroflot (aeroflot.ru) offers connecting flights to the Bulgarian capital via Moscow. STAY Grand Hotel Sofia (from 7,000; grandhotelsofia.bg) and Hilton Sofia (from 6,700; www3.hilton.com) are plush options. EAT Sun Moon (sunmoon.bg) offers fresh homemade breads and a variety of traditional Bulgarian spreads. For a more local experience, check out the street-food stalls spread across the city. Cevapi, a skinless sausage popular throughout the Balkans, is a favourite. It’s available in multiple types of meat, but beef and pork are most common. DO Balkan Bites (balkanbites.bg ) offers complimentary food tours through the city. The graffiti adorning the city walls is best explored with Sofia Graffiti Tour (sofiagrafittitour.com)…

1 ROYAL BATH Do you enjoy listening to music when you’re in the shower? Well, what if you were given a bath to soothing, live music like the royals of Gwalior? The ‘Mangal Snan’, a deep-cleansing bath, was taken before coronations and weddings. If you want such pampering, all you need to do is book yourself a bath at JIVA Spa at Taj Usha Kiran Palace (taj.tajhotels.com), Gwalior. The 180-minute-long treatment includes deep cleansing, exfoliation, and a massage with traditional spices, herbs, and oils. This is followed by a bath in saffron-, mogra- and gulheena- infused water. And while you enjoy the ministrations of your therapist, a group of musicians serenades you with Indian ragas! 2 HAY HO Farmers would sleep in hay while working in Alpine pastures, and this…

GETTING THERE Fly from New Delhi to Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport on Emirates via Dubai. Air India, too, flies direct flights on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. STAY Hyatt Centric Madrid on Gran Vía offers 143 rooms (from 19,000) and 16 suites, some with a terrace (from 30,000). hyatt.com TOURS Cultura Viva Madrid runs several city tours. Private tours start from 16,900 regardless of group size (max 15), or you can join a tour on their regular programme-1,763 per person on average. culturavivamadrid.com Scrooser Tours Madrid offers a choice of guided city tours. You have to be at least 15 years of age, and rates vary according to route and duration. From 2,000 for an hour; scroosermadrid.com BEST SEASON Madrid’s climate is mostly mild and dry, making it an ideal year-round…

“THIS IS YOUR FIRST TIME in Grenada?” the airport official asked me, with open suspicion. “You have never been before?” I fidgeted nervously as he analysed the stamps in my passport. His stern British demeanour, like his starched colonial-style uniform, seemed plucked from The Bridge on the River Kwai. Was there some problem? Did I need some obscure island visa? But then the officer broke into an ear-to-ear smile. “Well then, sir, you are most welcome! We are very pleased to have you!” It was my first taste of the preternatural friendliness of Grenadians, which for someone from New York City can be shocking, even downright unnerving. Over the next week, I would be startled by strangers who said hello to me randomly in the street and taxi drivers who…

BOA VISTA, THE DESERT ISLAND part of the Cape Verde archipelago, boasts of a singularly fascinating topography. Its surface features jagged, lunar-like volcanic landscapes, vast sand dunes, and endless white-sand beaches—all at once. Add to that the Cape Verdean culture known for its wonderful music and Afro-Portuguese essence, and you have a multi-faceted destination waiting to be unspooled. Take a stroll through its artsy settlements and vibrant markets; sample local cuisine at beachfront restaurants in the urban setting of Sal Rei; soak in the sight of the undulating golden hills at the Praia de Chaves beach; take a quad-bike safari across the rolling dunes of the Viana Desert; witness the haunting shipwreck of M/S Cabo Santa Maria on the north coast; take in the views from the island’s highest peak,…

CELEB SPOTTING With an abundance of places to explore, Turkey ranks high on travel wish lists. If it isn’t on your itinerary yet, then perhaps Fatima Sana Shaikh’s recent pictures will provide the inspiration you need. travelandleisureindia.in/fatima-sana-shaikh-turkey/ EMERGING Cienfuegos in Cuba is a wholesome package with something for everyone. The French enclave is a must-visit if you want to wander off this season. Get wilfully lost in this modern, organised, spacious, but tiny city. travelandleisureindia.in/cienfuegos-cuba/ #TELLTNLINDIA A BHUTANESE BOY FONDLY LOOKS AT THE TIGER’S NEST MONASTERY, ALSO CALLED PARO TAKTSANG.WE ARE IN LOVE WITH THIS CANDID SHOT BY @SUDIPTA_SAGAR_KALITA. TO GET FEATURED HERE, TAG @TRAVELANDLEISUREINDIA ON INSTAGRAM AND USE THE HASHTAG #TELLTNLINDIA. Download Travel + Leisure India & South Asia digital editions, and follow us for the best in hotels,…

1 Check out MUJI passport (muji.com/in/passport). It’s the ultimate app for any smart traveller looking for a smooth shopping experience. 2 Check-in at their stores, earn miles while shopping, read interesting stories, and get the latest travel updates on the app. 3 You can also earn MUJI miles by just tapping on the ‘want it’ button on products on the app. Posting comments can fetch miles, too.…

WHILE THE 2018 edition of the Men’s Hockey World Cup brought the world’s best players and sports enthusiasts to the capital city of Odisha, Bhubaneswar, local artists from across the state were setting the stage for the first ever Dot FEST (December 1-16). The first-of-its-kind festival organised by Odisha Tourism tapped into the city’s rich cultural, historical, and culinary offerings to present to a global audience the state’s hidden gems and understated experiences. Through Dot FEST (Food, Entertainment, Stories, Trails), travellers were acquainted with the city’s centuries-old temple structures, relics of the Kalinga empire, local culinary gems (from dahi wada aaloo dum to chhena poda), etc. The highlights of the extravaganza included an international food festival that brought a rich mix of regional and global flavours to the table; a…

“THE GREATEST THING in the world is to know how to belong to oneself.” The French writer Michel de Montaigne made a lot of sense. But, to belong to myself, I first had to find myself. And the clutter of everyday life never failed to get in the way. Thus, I set on a journey of solitude, which I hoped to find in a small, cosy property in Gagar, Uttarakhand. Located in Ramgarh, at an altitude of 2,100 metres, Gagar is endowed with 180° views of the commanding Kumaon Himalayas, but is thankfully untouched by the traffic snarls that plague nearby Nainital. The beauty of the region has inspired many an artist, from Rabindranath Tagore, who is said to have written Gitanjali on a hilltop here, to the poetess Mahadevi…

GETTING THERE Air India, Jet Airways, Spicejet, and GoAir operate direct flights between New Delhi and Leh. Alternatively, you can take an express train till Jammu, and then hit the road (815 kilometres). CONSCIOUS STAYS The 195-year-old Stok Palace is a heritage hotel now, with four cottages to choose from. From 32,000 per night; stokpalaceheritage.com The eco-friendly Nimmu House comes with a choice of 30 rooms and five luxurious tents. From 12,000 per night; ladakh.nimmu-house.com The House of Trees takes pride in the fact that it is carbon-neutral. From 12,000; lchangnang.com…

GETTING THERE The best way to get to Rotterdam or Utrecht is via Amsterdam; Jet Airways (jetairways.com) and KLM (klm.com) have direct, nonstop flights from New Delhi and Mumbai to the Dutch capital. The easiest way to travel between the cities is by rail or road. While train tickets go from 1,300 to 2,000 (thetrainline.com), a bus journey can cost up to 700 (global.flixbus.com). Both cities are walking- and cycling-friendly. Hire a bike from Color Bike Tours (colorbiketours.nl). Else, affordable and punctual train, metro, bus, and tram services are also available. STAY ROTTERDAM Mainport is a designer hotel that overlooks the city’s oldest harbour on River Maas and is at walking distance from the key sights. From 10,000 per night; mainporthotel.com Stroom is a former power station with a gritty…

LADDER RANCH, NEW MEXICO One of three New Mexico properties in the Ted Turner Expeditions portfolio, this 156,000-acre ranch includes diverse terrain and a 19th -century ghost town. Endangered frogs, tortoises, and wolves are among the species being reintroduced. Private stays are available in Turner’s five-bedroom house, which sleeps up to 11 people. From 2,10,000; tedturner expeditions.com HIGH LONESOME RANCH, COLORADO Guests stay in the main house, private cabins, or deluxe safari tents at this high-end ranch in the western Rockies. The land offers everything from elk hunting to horseback riding; among the conservation efforts are restorations of native grassland and trout-friendly creek habitat. The chef is an alum of Chicago’s Alinea, and his tasting menu is not to be missed. Doubles from 1,14,500; thehighlonesomeranch.com NACHUSA GRASSLANDS, ILLINOIS The Nature Conservancy…

There are countless things that put Japan on so many bucket lists—from a unique blend of immersive experiences to the curious juxtaposition of the old and the new in every prefecture. But if it’s Zen you desire, head to Kyoto, a calming oasis that slows you down with its bewitching beauty. I try to visit the city every time I visit Japan. Spending a day or two in this magical place comes with ample rewards: witnessing the cherry blossoms of spring and the many-hued foliage of autumn, experiencing the tranquillity of Zen gardens, and exploring the 1,600-odd Buddhist temples and 17 World Heritage Sites. GETTING TO AND AROUND KYOTO The cultural and historical centre of the country, Kyoto is on the bullet train route from Tokyo to Osaka, onward to…

What do you keep in mind while styling royalty? When it comes to the royals, their style is inherent. They have grown up with it. Raghavendra Rathore (RR) is a bespoke brand. When designing for someone with a rich lineage, it is imperative to understand his lifestyle and personal sense of style. What went into styling the young Maharaja Padmanabh Singh? Owing to the rich history of the Jaipur royal family, it becomes the duty of a brand like ours to remain true to the family story, and not do something out of nature. A personality like his [Pacho’s] can be moulded into an old-world style, and works equally well in a modern, sporty, and new-age appeal. His sense of style is classic and timeless, and he carries off any…

I SWOOP INTO MY NINTH suryanamaskar, turning my head up to look out of the picture windows that make up almost half the walls in my 11th -floor room. A carpet of green and brown treetops greets my eyes, the sight of which, combined with the deep breathing and intense stretching of yoga, calms my mind, readying me for my massage at The Sanctuary, Bengaluru’s newest wellness hub. I’ve been at The Den for a day and a half, enjoying the wide range of nutritious dishes it serves at its restaurant, The Creek; sipping on fresh, guilt-free juices at The Cold Press; sinking into the comfy bed in my Den Corner room; and practising yoga or reading by the pool, and in my room. I’m pleasantly surprised at the variety…

MODERN TRAVEL HAS made feet optional. You can go anywhere you want without as much as wiggling your toes. Despite healthy legs and an appetite for mountain hikes, I’d give anything to be transported without breaking a sweat. That’s why trains make me feel alive. The view is never boring, the rhythm is calming, and the absence of road rage puts me in an agreeable mood. Last year, my love for the mountains met my love for trains. I made for Interlaken, where Yash Chopra had found his muse. So grateful were the Swiss to the late filmmaker for celebrating their landscapes that they declared him an ambassador of Interlaken. After his death in 2012, he was conferred an honour otherwise reserved only for Adolf Guyer-Zeller (the visionary industrialist who…

USA Bacon-Wrapped Cream Cheese & Jalapeño Poppers Serves 4 | Net carbs 2 gms Prep time 20 mins | Cook time 20 mins INGREDIENTS 12 jalapeño peppers, about 3–4 inches long 1 cup cream cheese, softened 1 cup cheddar ½ tsp onion powder ½ tsp salt ½ tsp pepper 12 slices of bacon (do not use thick cut) Cooking spray METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C. 2. Line a sheet pan with foil, and coat it with cooking spray. 3. In a medium-sized bowl, mix the cream cheese, cheddar, onion powder, salt, and pepper. 4. Fill each jalapeño half with the cheese mixture. 5. Cut the slices of bacon in half, crosswise. Then, wrap each jalapeño half in a slice of bacon, using a toothpick to secure it. 6.…

With global warming effects rising at an alarming rate, it is time for us to stop, pause, introspect, and act responsibly. Bask in the joys of slow travel; say hello to local and organic supplies; and let 2019 be the year you partake in the green-travel revolution. Top 10 Indian Hotels that Drive Conservation Renewable energy sources, efficient waste management, and locally grown organic ingredients- find out the secrets behind these top green hotels of India. travelandleisureindia.in/indianhotels-conservation/ Eight Gorgeous Eco-Friendly Homestays These eco-friendly Airbnbs drive local, authentic, and sustainable living as part of promoting healthy tourism. Here’s a list of homestays for when you travel within India. travelandleisureindia.in/ecofriendly-airbnb-homes/ Luxury Stays in India that Support Green Travel Globetrotters are becoming increasingly conscious of their choices. Here are some luxury lodges down…

Portable aroma diffuser Don’t forget this cool product to enjoy some soothing fragrances on your holiday. It doesn’t use water, and is powered by a rechargeable battery; it’s cordless, and hence, easy to carry. 3,990 Foldable carry bag This case, with a panel inside, can fold up to half its size when the panel is pulled up. Small 8,990; Large 10,990 Hard carry cases This hard-shell suitcase comes with a stopper function, and the handle can be adjusted to your preferred height. From 8,990 to 69,990 Neck cushion Filled with beads that support the neck on long flights, this travel cushion has a clip and an adjustable strap that keep it in place. From 1,490 to 2,490 Explore MUJI on the MUJI passport app.…

TONNEAU CARTIER Challenging the then pervasive round pocket watches, Cartier first presented its barrel-shaped Tonneau way back in 1906. True to the original, the new Tonneau is reworked to suit modern demands. Two brackets in pink gold or platinum in oblong shape, Roman numerals, a rail track design, cabochon on the crown, screws on lugs, and a leather strap-all Cartier codes are present in the new Tonneau. 100 pieces only DEFY CLASSIC BLACK CERAMIC ZENITH The DEFY Classic is going to be the mainstay of Zenith for years to come. The new timepiece is bold, stunning, and effective. Forged from black zirconium oxide ceramic, the DEFY Classic’s faceted 41mm case features a combination of polished and satin-brushed surfaces, and an avant-garde open dial. It comes with a sapphire case back.…

WE SPILLED OUT of the woods and into a sweep of straw-coloured prairie grass. To the west, above a zigzag of barbed-wire fencing, round hills bulged in the sun. Straight ahead, an eyeful of classic Montana big sky soared up from a pedestal of flat buttes. So this is why people dream about the American West, I thought. Another hour of hiking, around prickly pear and spiked coronets of yucca, brought us to the top of a ridge. The silver belt of the River Missouri lay below, with colonnades of cottonwoods exploding in lemon-lime colours along its banks. The land would have looked quite similar when Lewis and Clark made their way through in 1805. Remarkably, a generation from now, it will bear an even greater resemblance to its original…

SOFIA SITS ON LAYERS of history. Ruled by the Thracians, Romans, Byzantines, Ottoman Turks, and the Communists over centuries, the Bulgarian capital city of 1.26 million people is today a polyglot mix of races, nationalities, and cultures. The Turks, Arabs, Kurds, Africans, Syrians—all blend seamlessly and ceaselessly into the city’s demographic profile. Also called the ‘Jerusalem of the East’, Sofia gathers three monotheist temples in close proximity. An Orthodox church (St. Nedelya) in the city stands next to a mosque (Banya Bashi); the two face a Catholic cathedral (St. Joseph), all within sight of and a walk away from the city’s synagogue (Sofia Synagogue). A free walking tour in Sofia opens my eyes to how many layers of history are hidden in this Balkan jewel overlooking the Vitosha Mountains. “The…

HOLIDAY HOME While most of the major hotel chains have a presence in Kyoto, the real fun is in staying at a traditional Japanese inn (ryokan) or luxury holiday home. Featuring Japanese-style accommodation with tatami floorings and futon beddings, Yuzuya Ryokan ( kiwa-group.co.jp ), located a few steps away from the Yasaka shrine in Gion, is a smart choice. It offers traditional multi-course meals, and features antique furnishings, delightful wildflower arrangements, and free WiFi. ROOM WITH A VIEW Another traditional Japanese inn, Ryokan Genhouin ( genhouin.co.jp ), is located just 700 metres from Eikan-do Zenrin-ji. The property comes with rooms that look out to a beautiful garden, and all creature comforts . Ryokan Genhouin also offers a hot tub, and some rooms come with terraces. Visitors…

Your favourite summer holiday destinations? Geneva and Zurich in Switzerland, and Paris and Cannes in France-all must-visits on any trip to Europe. Where do you usually holiday during winters? I haven’t wintered anywhere for a bit, but I have to say, with family and friends in [Mt.] Abu is spectacular, or anywhere in Rajasthan is great fun. Christmas in New York is my favourite. Preferred airline? I’d have to say Emirates. Three hotels you swear by, and why? Taj Rambagh Palace, Jaipur, for its service, ease, and inspiration; Beau-Rivage Geneva, for its location, comfort, and experience; and The Ritz-Carlton New York for the same reasons. The most memorable vacation you’ve taken? A destination wedding of a cousin in Pau, France. In Rio de Janeiro, you must try hang gliding. My…

I JUST LOVE head massages. There, I said it! And I’m talking about those perfect champis that employ oil that’s at just the right temperature, pressure that varies from medium to hard —intense on just the right spots—and an excellent therapist with whom you share a trusting relationship. Speaking of which, I’m at Silhouette, Salon De Beauté at The Oberoi, New Delhi indulging in my favourite activity—a ‘Head Massage with Argan Oil’. My therapist has been in the business for years, and has an intuitive touch that tells him exactly where the nasty knots and tension in my neck and back lie. And he coaxes them into submission. This is after he’s spent the last half hour sending my hair roots and scalp into a tizzy. All too soon, or…

GETTING THERE Take a direct Swissair (swissair.com) flight from Delhi to Zurich, and take the train (goeuro.com) to Grindelwald. Then, take the train to Kleine Scheidegg to get on board the very narrow-gauge cog railway to Jungfraujoch. STAY At Interlaken, stay at the VICTORIA-JUNGFRAU Grand Hotel & Spa ( 33,500 per night for a Deluxe Double Room; victoria-jungfrau.ch). Spa Nescens here offers a variety of treatments, including better-ageing programmes, body treatments, and facials. EAT There’s no catering onboard, but try the traditional Swiss cuisine-serving Restaurant Eigergletscher-Jungfraujoch (gletscherrestaurant.ch); must-tries include the eigerspitzli and cream slices.…

I stood outside the entrance to the Hyatt Centric Madrid and peered upwards. Outlined against a flawless blue sky was a golden statue of Diana, the Goddess of the hunt—her bow and arrow pointed at the phoenix on the building across the street. While the Gods stood in a permanent standoff above, traffic swirled around me on the buzzing Gran Vía street. This will be fun, I thought. The lobby of the Hyatt Centric is not what you’d call conventional. Step inside, and you’re in the Ondas:Vermuteria+ Lounge. A multi-functional space that manages to be hip and cosy at once, it specialises in vermouth, coffee, and tapas, and is as much the spot for a quick business meeting as a draw for Saturday night revellers. A bartender waved at me…

Humu humu nuku nuku apu a’a is the name of Hawaii’s state fish. It’s an elegant little reef triggerfish, with yellow chevron pinstripes and a blue lip, but I think the Hawaiians selected it because its name is fun to say. I pointed and tried to shout it into my snorkel. If the word is tough to pronounce under normal conditions, it’s harder underwater. My wife, Kim, and I followed the fish in and out of cauliflower coral heads, through a cloud of striped surgeonfish and swaying schools of bright-yellow tangs. We passed a parrotfish, which crunched its coral breakfast so loudly we could hear it. The humu kept a dignified pace. We kicked along a coral cliff, which dropped into deeper blue, and out to a cluster of rocks where…

The crème de la crème of Mumbai was treated to a fun weekend that included all the elements of an unforgettable indulgence. Millionaireasia India, India’s leading luxury magazine, hosted a two-day extravaganza—Millionaireasia Regatta that saw the movers and shakers of the maximum city regale in the seaside revelry. Day one witnessed a stellar fashion show by Deme by Gabriella on Neverland, a cruise liner by Queensline even as the day ended with a gala dinner onboard the schooner Sea Yah. Day two saw 13 boats including that of the partners—Swiss Airlines, Visit California, and Simon Shopping participate in a thrilling Regatta. Commenting on the occasion, Ms. Parineeta Sethi, Director- Burda Media India said, “Luxurious, competitive, exciting, and fun are only a few of the words that come to mind at…