Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

I have often contemplated the reason why most of us love to travel. Is it an instinct to discover the unknown, or just a way to escape the mundane? Over the years, I’ve spent time and savings experiencing new places, trying to learn a thing or two about people and cultures. There’s a leitmotif in all my travels. It was best described by the French novelist Gustave Flaubert when he said, “Travel makes one modest, you see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” Some trips are more special than others. And for this very special 12th Anniversary Issue, I journeyed to the Maldives with Bollywood actor par excellence Huma Qureshi, whose passion for travel is infectious (p. 86). This momentous issue also happens to be our biggest yet,…

GETTING THERE Connecting flights run between major Indian metros and Cape Town. Simon’s Town is 45 kilometres from the capital; take a train to Kalk Bay, followed by a 15-minute cab ride from there. STAY One & Only Cape Town ( oneandonlyresorts . com ) on Dock Road and Taj Cape Town (taj.tajhotels.com) near St George’s Mall are good options for a comfortable stay with magnificent views of the Table Mountain. SEASON The best time to visit is between October and March-the likelihood of rain is low, and the breeding season begins in February.…

GETTING THERE The nearest airports are Bengaluru (250 kms, 4 hrs), Mysuru (180 kms, 3 hrs), and Mangalore (170 kms, 3 hrs). STAY The Serai Chikmagalur has 20 pool villas, four jacuzzi villas, four terrace villas, and a presidential villa. It offers interesting activities, such as coffee walks and cycling, ideal for couples and families on a weekend getaway. Tariff starts from 29,440 for two, including taxes. theserai.in DO Walk the Bean-to-Cup trail It starts with a guided plantation walk and gives an insight into the journey that coffee makes from the plantation to our mugs. Visits to curing and roasting units, and the Coffee Museum in Chikmagalur, can be arranged. Climb Mullayanagiri Karnataka’s highest peak at 1,925 metres has spellbinding views of the Western Ghats. Visit Belur and Halebid…

I’VE ALMOST DIED SEVEN TIMES. I love walking, especially in cities. And almost dying is a byproduct of walking in India. Traffic rules are mystical concepts, and footpaths are co-working spaces for hawkers, cows, drunks, and the homeless. I feel no malice towards any of them, because they rely on these footpaths for their sustenance; all I use the footpath for is walking. Four of my near-deaths occurred because four different bikers, with their headlights off, decided to ride on the wrong side of the road, and I was arrogant enough to assume that my life was more important than their Dhoom 6 rejection letters. Another time, I almost fell into a manhole, which had a cover so weak it could’ve been a Marie biscuit. As…

WHAT DOES TRAVEL MEAN TO YOU? Travel is a timeout from daily life. It can be different things—a bonding trip with friends and family, a time for solitude and clarity, or an adventure and time of discovery; each has a different flavour, but any way you look at it, travel is refreshing and rejuvenating. WHAT KIND OF A TRAVELLER ARE YOU? I like clear itineraries as a rule. Life is busy, so I like to make the most of my time. But that itinerary could be full or very laid-back, depending on the intention of the trip. I also like to travel solo. Solo trips for me are essentially self-indulgent, usually with my phone off, to enable me to spend maximum time introspecting. WHAT MAKES LONDON SO SPECIAL TO YOU?…

WHAT BETTER WAY TO START a new year than a long boat journey on the River Brahmaputra? As we started from the busy riverine ghat (a chunk of solid sand on the river bank, which can by no stretch of imagination be called a port) near Dibrugarh, the heart of tea country in Upper Assam, two Gangetic dolphins leaped gracefully near the bow as if on cue. I’ve been travelling on the Brahmaputra for as long as I can remember. I can recall from my childhood days what appeared to be giant steamers setting off from Silghat to Tezpur. I’ve travelled for work and pleasure, for the sake of just seeing the river at close quarters, through the long dry months of winter and the surging, scary vastness of the…

GETTING THERE Air India operates daily non-stop flights from New Delhi to Velana International Airport in Malé. From here, you can take an hour-long seaplane transfer to the resort. Or, fly to Hanimadhoo Airport, from where an hour-long speedboat ride takes you to Sirru Fen Fushi. STAY Fairmont Maldives is a 120-villa luxury property. The beach villas feature indoor and outdoor bathing areas, relaxation salas, and beach access. They come with one, two, three, five, or seven bedrooms. (From 45,500 plus taxes per night.) The water villas are perched on the lagoon and feature plunge pools, copper tubs, and endless ocean views. (From 59,500.) There is also the option of tented villas on the island for those wanting a taste of both, the beach and the tropical jungle. fairmont.com…

“I bet there are better ways to experience -25O Celsius than this blizzard,” I said in a rather low voice through gritted teeth. Only, there weren’t. I was in Levi, a pretty little ski town in the Finnish Lapland, trying to get a first-hand account of an Arctic winter. Twenty minutes earlier, I had eagerly gotten into my overalls, winter boots and gloves, and a sorry woollen cap I had carried from Delhi. My guide, Charlie and I, had taken a gondola from Levi’s base to the top of its tallest ski slope for a view of the valley below. It was early March. The wind and the snow were doing the disco at 530 metres that cloudy morning, and you can well imagine the view. Beyond the snow-white mumbo…

GETTING THERE Fly to Joze Pucnik Airport in Ljubljana via Munich or Vienna. Alternatively, fly to Venice and drive to Ljubljana. (2½ hours, private car transfer on Goopti, 10,670 for two people, goopti.com) STAY The Grand Hotel Union Business ( 10,750 upwards) has an unbeatable location in the Old Town. Slightly further out, the luxurious InterContinental Ljubljana ( 13,536 upwards) towers over the centre. TOURS Ljubljananjam Food Tours offers a few options. Ljubljana Essentials is a well-rounded mix of food, drink, and culture. (3.5 hrs, 5,173; ljubljananjam.si) Roundabout Travels’ (travel-slovenia.com) personalised tours allow for 2-8 people. (Day trips between 5,571 and 8,356) BEST SEASON The weather is warm and dry from May to September, perfect to enjoy Slovenia’s many festivals and adventure sports.…

At the Seoraksan National Park, South Korea, the mountains change colour every season, guaranteeing a different landscape on every visit. Come autumn, and vibrant foliage of different hues will adorn the Seoraksan mountains, which are dotted with oak and dwarf stone pine trees. Amidst this burst of greens and oranges rises the 10-metre-tall Buddha statue at the Sinheungsa Temple, situated on the slopes of the mountain range. Called the Bronze Jwabul Statue, the towering monument draws a multitude of travellers to the ancient Buddhist temple. With its silhouette set against a clear blue sky, the statue commands awe. According to locals, the national park is one of the most scenic places the country has to offer, with the best time to visit between September and November. Ideal for a day…

VOTE NOW AND WIN The online voting process for India’s Best Awards 2018 is now on! Vote for your favourite hotels, destinations, airlines, airports, luxury service providers, etc. and stand a chance to win international holidays! travelandleisureindia.in/iba2018 SPOTTED Jacqueline Fernandez was quite the globetrotter last month when she travelled between Naples and Positano in Italy to Paris, France. Here are some inspiring photographs she Instagrammed. travelandleisureindia.in/jaqueline-fernandez-travel-diary #TELLTNLINDIA @THEROUTECAUSE CAPTURES THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF PAHALGAM IN SUMMER, PROVING AGAIN THAT THE MAGNIFICENCE OF KASHMIR IS UNPARALLELED. TO GET FEATURED HERE, TAG @TRAVELANDLEISUREINDIA ON INSTAGRAM AND USE THE HASHTAG #TELLTNLINDIA. Download Travel + Leisure India & South Asia digital editions, and follow us for the best in hotels, food, style, culture, and trends. travelandleisureindia tnlindia tnlindia traveleisurein NOTE: ALL PRICES MENTIONED IN…

IWC TRIBUTE TO PALLWEBER IWC Schaffhausen This mechanical timepiece with a digital display celebrates the brand’s 150th anniversary. Three limited-edition ‘IWC Tribute to Pallweber’ wristwatch collections were unveiled at SIHH this year. All of the 25 watches were made in platinum ( 42,85,000), 250 in red gold ( 25,11,000), and 500 in stainless steel ( 17,14,000). POLARIS MEMOVOX JAEGER-LECOULTRE Inspired by the iconic Memovox Polaris of 1968, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a new collection. The collection includes a three-hand automatic, a chronograph, and a chronograph world time, as well as two models with a stronger vintage feel; the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox. 8,50,000 CALIBRE 9S 20 TH  ANNIVERSARY GRAND SEIKO This year marks 20 years of the 9S, Grand Seiko’s finest mechanical calibre. To celebrate, the…

The InterContinental Chennai Mahabalipuram Resort is set against the azure waters of Bay of Bengal, making it one of the most sought-after destinations in the country to host luxe beach weddings. With convenient event spaces—both indoor and outdoor (on the beach)—and an in-house team of meticulous wedding planners, the hotel puts together a regal show, the kind that will be remembered for a long time to come. Located around 50 kilometres from the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Mahabalipuram, the hotel is among the few properties that offer a full buyout option for destination weddings. Choose between the indoor Samaya Banquet Hall, and outdoor Sama 1 Beach Lawns and InterContinental Beach Gardens to host the various pre-wedding functions. While the indoor space is perfect for themed dinners, the beachfront venues…

It was almost surreal taking the Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood, where I visited the sets of legendary movies like Casablanca, Jurassic Park, and the recent blockbuster La La Land. I also got a chance to see the sets of popular sitcoms like F.R.I.E.N.D.S, Two and a Half Men, The Big Bang Theory, and The Ellen DeGeneres Show. Another unforgettable experience was riding up Angels Flight, one of Los Angeles’s most historic landmarks. The funicular railway was also featured in La La Land, one of my favourite films in recent times.…

The Amazon rainforest, Brazil and Masai Mara, Kenya. The Amazon transforms during the rains-thousands of miles get submerged under water, giving birth to an ecosystem that supports a multitude of›life forms. I love Masai Mara during the annual migration, the instinctive movement of millions of animals propelled by hunger. In India, Kaziranga National Park is one of my favourite destinations. My most treasured moment there was watching a herd of elephants and a tiger walking side by side.…

Travel+Leisure India & South Asia , in association with Le Meridien New Delhi, hosted Cocktail Rendezvous—a Masterclass in vodka cocktails—at the hotel’s elite Nero bar on August 3, 2018. The dark, elegant interiors at Nero was the perfect setting for a Friday evening as four signature cocktails—Russian Love, Cape Codder, Cosmopolitan, Café Vangila—were shaken and stirred for an exclusive crowd of discerning travellers. Guests at the event networked over cocktails and canapes, with sumptuous food stations such as a Bruschetta Bar and a Cheese Station, fuelling conversations on food and travel. During the Masterclass, guests enjoyed some fun trivia on the origin of the ingredients and liquor used in the cocktails and won prizes too! The intimate cocktail session was followed by dinner at the hotel’s signature Indian fine dining…

Enveloped in the exotic beauty of South Malé Atoll, OZEN by Atmosphere at Maadhoo (ozen-maadhoo.com) offers all-encompassing luxury packages for a hassle-free vacation. An exhilarating speedboat ride from Velana International Airport, Malé, available all day with personalised onboard services, gets you here in merely 45 minutes. Staying at OZEN by Atmosphere at Madhoo is a truly indulgent affair. Accommodation options here are diverse; there are 49 overwater Wind Villas including the OZEN Water Suite, and 41 beachfront Earth Villas. Available with or without a swimming pool, the Earth Villas feature high slanted ceilings, a blend of bright and earthy colours, a large outdoor deck, a tropical garden, and outdoor bathrooms that come with a handcrafted bathtub and a monsoon shower. The Earth Family Suite comes with a huge master bedroom…

Which is the most beautiful country you have visited? It’ll have to be Canada, and I covered both, Toronto and Vancouver. The country is beautiful, modern, and so vibrant. It’s also a great example of how a place can be well planned without killing all the natural resources. The quality of life people enjoy there is amazing. Canada has a great way of conserving nature, which I think we should definitely learn from. When I came back to India, my first thought was, ‘Why can’t Mumbai and Delhi have cleaner air?’ What does your travel bucket list look like? There are so many [places]! I want to explore South America; trek to Machu Picchu; I haven’t been to Australia, so this year I’m travelling there; I want to go to…

A Green City Is a Happy City By Justin Davidson On the summer’s longest Saturday, late in the day but hours before dark, I joined the currents of humanity converging on the former shipyards at Refshaleøen. Some headed for Copenhell, the heavy-metal festival that howls across the disused docklands. Others followed signs scrawled on blackboards (this way! almost there!) that blazed the path to Reffen, an open-air encampment of food vendors operating out of repurposed shipping containers, where all the cutlery is biodegradable. I headed for the restaurant Amass, where little is wasted: today’s leftover fermented-potato bread will be shaved into chips and packaged in a compostable cornstarch bag. The activity at Refshaleøen jangles together in a district that hardly existed a decade ago. Recycling open space and filling it…

9 Vacation Rentals with Killer Views In vineyards, apple orchards, and farms; near mountain lakes; and on hilltops-these privately-owned houses are the places to check-in to. travelandleisureindia.in/vacation-rentals-with-views 11 Homestays that Offer You the Detox You Need Go far enough, and you can’t be traced. These homestays give you the luxury of space, zero traffic, and intermittent network. travelandleisureindia.in/homestays-for-detox Apartments that Spell Action from the Word Go Live like a local when you book these gorgeous apartments in the middle of action-the shop for imported meat, the gourmet department store, and the shopping promenade are all a stroll away. travelandleisureindia.in/city-apartments-for-travel…

SHE SHUFFLES TOWARDS ME on the boardwalk and stops a few feet away. I am clearly in her way. As I move aside, she rushes past, ducks under the railing, and reaches for her partner. It’s a happy reunion. I am at Boulders Beach, near Capetown, South Africa, to see African penguins. These small, seemingly tuxedoed birds are at once, adorable and entertaining. They are also on the brink of extinction. Multiple factors are responsible for their dwindling numbers—habitat destruction, loss of nesting sites, marine pollution, predator attacks, and a scarcity of food owing to overfishing. In 1990, there were about five to 10 lakh pairs of African penguins; in 2000, around 50,000 pairs existed; and today, just about 18,000 live in South Africa. In 2010, these penguins were officially…

THE FOREBEAR OF the Jodhpuri bandhgala first appeared in the princely state of Jodhpur around the 1600s. The gem merchants and traders who made inroads into the desert city brought with them a silhouette that quickly influenced the local attire, the angarakha. By then, the Portuguese and the English colonisers had made the presence of the jacket design felt across India. Folklore suggests that the then Maharaja of Jodhpur, Sri Sardar Singh, helped the angarakha evolve into the achkan, and over time, the achkan into a more versatile incarnation, the bandhgala. This was the time that the camera made its way to Jodhpur and made Sri Sardar Singh the most photographed Maharaja of the princely state. His numerous portraits helped the Maharaja give style a whole new meaning that would…

MY INTRODUCTION TO SCUBA DIVING WAS PURELY ACCIDENTAL. It happened on a cold, windy day in Mauritius. I had gone there on a business trip with a friend; since we were doing nothing on a Sunday morning, we decided to accompany some friends to a local diving school. We convinced the instructor to let us tag along with the divers to a nearby dive site at Trouaux-Biches. Once there, all the divers kitted up, rolled off the side of the boat, and disappeared, leaving the two of us and the boatman rocking on a rough sea. I get seasick in a bathtub, and I definitely had not found my sea legs by then. Looking slightly green behind the gills, I urged the boatman to drop us back to the shore.…

THE PLACES TO WHICH I usually travel can hardly be called ‘destinat ions.’ Starting in 2014, I have visited towns and cities across India, from Meerut and Ranchi to Surat and Salem, to report stories of young Indians’ dreams and despairs. I did my best to explore their known and unknown charms: street food, cafes, markets, and museums. It became a routine: finish work and find something interesting to do. And then, things changed slightly. In January 2018, I published my first book, Dreamers, which profiled a set of young Indians trying to make bigger and better lives for themselves in small towns. Released at a time when the country’s demographic dividend threatens to be a liability for the world, Dreamers received a wide range of critical attention, and I,…

A GASTRONOMICAL HOLIDAY does sound ideal, but in my case, it comes with the territory—it’s part of my job. At Mumbai’s Bombay Canteen (thebombaycanteen.com), our food philosophy has always been about showcasing regional Indian cuisines. The idea is to create seasonal, crave-worthy food with context, and recipes rooted in age-old traditions and cultures across the country. Therefore, travelling for research becomes a necessity. Over the past four years, this hungry cause has taken me to towns and cities all over India—places that are known for their food. The most recent of these food trips was spent in Tamil Nadu. The perception of Tamilian food, for most people living outside the state, never extends too far beyond the classic idli, dosai, and sambhar. On the contrary, the cuisine, as I discovered,…

Adventure ONE WITH T HE OCEAN With 99 per cent of the Maldives covered in water, the sea is your playground. And there is a watersport for everyone. By Rashima Nagpal MEET THE WHALE SHARK Blessed with over a thousand coral islands, the Maldives offers as many wonders under water as on the surface. Discover some of the world’s best dive sites—Maaya Thila, Fishhead, Malhoss Thila, Himendhoo Thila—situated only a plunge away from W Maldives. Get a flexible expedition designed for yourself, or choose from one of their Down Under signature packages, which includes the Whale Shark Quest—an overnight trip on a luxury yacht to the south of Ari Atoll, home to the world’s largest fish. Up the luxury quotient of your adventures with the (W)UNDER dive limousine, fully outfitted…

BEST AMBIENCE The Flying Elephant PARK HYATT CHENNAI Laid out by renowned designer George Wong, The Flying Elephant (in pic) in Park Hyatt Chennai offers a variety of settings to choose from. Its seven dining spaces—from an al fresco deck area to a private dining space at the top of the stairs—are an eclectic mix of the classic and the contemporary. Cosy, elegant, and lively, it’s perfect for casual meals as well as special occasions. hyatt.com Eau de Monsoon LE MÉRIDIEN NEW DELHI Located within the plush Le Méridien hotel in the heart of New Delhi, Eau de Monsoon is a stylish fine dining venue. The restaurant has a chic vibe, owing to its modern interiors. The highlight of the ambience is a pair of glass walls—one offering a calming…

I’ve missed the last transport to Ljubljana and am in no mood to hang around. I’ve seen this done in a thousand films, but in real life, hitchhiking feels awkward and absurd. Ignoring the appalled voice in my head, I solicit passing cars. In 10 minutes I have a ride, generously offered by a friendly woman who drives me to the outskirts of Ljubljana and then calls me a cab for the rest of the way. And that, more or less, is how my visit to Slovenia began. This trip was unusual for me. Having deposited my kids in the alpine resort of Kranjska Gora, I had an unprecedented week alone. I had taken work along as a safety blanket against the enforced vacation. I was, let’s say, a tad…

GETTING THERE Air India ( airindia.in ) flies non-stop, Emirates (emirates.com), and Lufthansa (lufthansa.com) fly with a minimum of one stop to Copenhagen from New Delhi. GETTING AROUND You can easily see the city by renting a bicycle from one of the numerous shops on and near Gothersgade, including Københavns Cykelbørs (one-day rentals from 1,000; cykelborsen.dk), open since 1881, or by using the city’s bike-share programme, Bycyklen (from 350 per hour; bycyklen.dk), available around the clock and equipped with GPS. Public transportation is widely available and affordable (bus, metro, and S-train tickets start at less than 275 per ride), as are taxis. LODGING The boutique Hotel Sanders (doubles from 29,000; hotelsanders.com) positions visitors near the popular 17th -century canal Nyhavn. The staff excels in anticipating guests’ needs,…

On August 9, 2018, Travel+Leisure India & South Asia, in association with Macao Tourism, brought India’s culinary world to a standstill. Leading chefs and hoteliers from all over India came together for the first edition of Delicious Food Awards, at Andaz Delhi (hospitality partner). With Liebherr as the Associate Partner, Ballantine’s as the Pouring Partner, and Classic Coffee as the Primary Beverage Partner, the best culinary experiences in the country were celebrated with zeal. Eminent personalities including Arzan Khambatta, Head of India Representative Office, Macao Government Tourism Office, celebrity chef Michael Swamy, author and food critic Rashmi Uday Singh, fashion designer Anupamaa Dayal, former Indian cricketer Atul Wassan, among others, graced the occasion and presented the awards to the winners.…