Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2017 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

SIMON CLAYS Luxor’s West Bank. Parched from a morning chasing Queen Hatshepsut, I break at Howard Carter’s house for a local beer. The brew, coupled with King Tut nostalgia, sees me headed off on foot towards The Valley of the Kings. Half way across, I spy figures. Bedouin faces, eye me suspiciously, as do their rifles. Stoney faces. Stoney silence. Then, toothy grins as wide as the Nile and they let me pass! ANWESHA SANYAL Quite accurately, when we reached Oman, everything fell out of place—the call sheet, the story line, and in one occasion, our model India Woods (she fell into the infinity pool and we had a laugh later). I suppose, the learning I took from this is that the best equipment you can travel with, is your…

La Cava, Abu Dhabi Designed to appeal to wine connoisseurs, this regal wine cellar oozes old-school charm and sophistication. With wall-to-wall cabinets stacked with the finest wines from across the world, La Cava at Rosewood Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Island, also houses a coveted whiskey collection and features a cigar bar. rosewoodhotels.com Empire Yas Nightclub, Abu Dhabi This swanky bar that stands over the F1 track at Yas Viceroy may be just a few months old, but is a crowd-puller thanks to its weekly theme nights. The very same spot used to be home to Rush, a popular nightclub, and now, Empire seeks to revive the buzz and vibrancy that characterised the former nightclub. With shiny, dramatic interiors, and pulsating after-hour parties, this is a great pick for a night…

“We have a long history with the Gujaratis,” said my dishdasha-clad, Keffiyah-sporting hotel receptionist as I enquired about directions to the Bahrain National Museum. I wondered if Modi had managed to win this Bahraini’s vote too. Filled with priceless artefacts, dioramas, and plaques that let visitors in on the details, I felt like I had walked right into the country’s past. Bahrain’s story begins with Telmun or the Dilmun civilisation, which was an ancient Semitic-speaking empire in the Bronze Age. Historians believe that it covered the present-day Bahrain, Kuwait, Qatar, and some parts of Saudi Arabia. Due to Dilmun’s access to Gulf of Persia, it was a prominent port; the link between the Indus civilisation and Mesopotamia. The secrets of pottery are whispered from father to son, and the method…

Fallas’ is the name of the festival, but it is also refers to the communities of which falleros and falleras are part. The word also denotes ninots (papier-mâché caricatures). At midnight, I was sitting in Ubik Café in Russafa with a cup of green tea, taking pictures of Harry Potter in Spanish to send to Potterheads back home. Adam, a journalist from Singapore, had wanted to check out the nightlife in Valencia and I had tagged along. Three more bars down, Adam and I were in the middle of a street party, dancing to English numbers with strangers. Just a few hours before this, we had witnessed an emotional procession of falleros and falleras in traditional costumes bringing flowers to the Virgin Mary—called Ofrenda de las Flores—at the Plaza de…

Indiana Jones your way through Jordan-its rocky, mountainous terrains beckon intrepid travellers. Wadi Mujib’s Canyon Trail This thrilling trek through Wadi Mujib river takes you swimming, rappelling, snorkelling, and abseiling, so pack a waterproof bag, sturdy shoes, and wetsuit before you embark on this adventure. Shaumari Wildlife Reserve Jordan may not be popular for its wildlife safaris but this reserve to the southwest of Azraq village is the closest you can come to animals in the country. Spot the rare Arabian oryx, gazelles, and ostriches in this vast desert and couple your time with birdwatching at Azraq wetland reserve, famous for its migratory birds and marshlands. Wreck Dive in Red Sea The Gulf of Aqaba is home to 1,200 species of fish and 500 varieties of corals. One of its…

LAND OF PAIN AND PROMISE Rooted to the Deep South. FIELDS OF VISION Wanås for cultural insiders. OF GAUCHOS AND GLACIERS An equestrian adventure in Chile. SONG OF THE FOREST Poetry and pride in British Columbia. Sitting at a height of 2,000 metres at the edge of the Saiq Plateau and looking out to a gargantuan canyon of the Green Mountain, this is what you’d do if you wanted to buy a spot at the end of the world. If large sand dunes or lone palm trees ever cast shadows in the Middle East, they go unnoticed. As humans, we do not fancy spending time in silhouettes, especially when we travel. Instead, our eyes follow what is easily visible, whether on the map, in the guide book, or popular opinion. I'd…

GETTING THERE Located on Sweden’s southern tip, outside the village of Knislinge, the Wanås estate is a 90-minute drive from Malmö and two hours from Copenhagen. HOTEL Wanås Hotel Occupying 18th -century stables, this recently opened 11-room inn is outfitted with a stylish mix of locally-crafted wood-and-leather furnishings and Mid-century Modern pieces. Doubles from US$199; wanasrh.se RESTAURANT Wanås Restaurant Located in a barn across from the hotel, the restaurant serves meals in a light-filled dining room that has an assortment of communal wooden tables. Working in an open kitchen, chef Mathias Klingemann prepares seasonal Nordic dishes, including braised lamb with pickled fennel and sunflower seeds. Tasting menu US$66; wanasrh.se ACTIVITY Wanås Konst More than 70 artworks are scattered across the property’s 100 acres, so give yourself a few hours to…

The wooden owl’s eyes entranced me. Every inch of the creature was intricately patterned, but the swirls around his eyes made him look somehow alive. I had come to San Martín Tilcajete, just outside the city of Oaxaca, in search of alebrijes, copal-wood figurines painted with elaborate Zapotec designs. María and Jacobo Ángeles are the undisputed masters of the craft, their carvings sought by museums and art collectors. The exterior of their workshop, on a dirt road at the edge of town, was an explosion of riotous colour, with bougainvillea bursting into bloom and apprentices painting in the courtyard. One young man cradled a two-foot dragon in his lap as he painstakingly brushed colour onto its horns: the red dye made from cochineal beetles, the yellow from pomegranate rinds. An…

BHUTAN’S LITTLE SECRET REVEALED BY A PRINCESS Bhutanese Princess Ashi Kesang Choden T tells us why there is an urgent need to preserve the dying art of Thangka paintings. travelandleisureindia.in/ custodians-history-thangka-painting HAVE YOU TAKEN THESE THREE ROAD TRIPS IN CANADA YET? We scour the most scenic and fun routes for exploring Canada on the road. Rent a car and set out to discover the great outdoors. travelandleisureindia.in/ road-trips-in-canada DOWNLOAD US T+L Tablet Editions Available on iPad, Android, and Windows Tablets. FOLLOW US INSTAGRAM/ TRAVELANDLEISUREINDIA FACEBOOK.COM/  TNLINDIA PINTEREST.COM/  TRAVLEISUREIN TWITTER.COM/  TNLINDIA SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTION OFFERS EMMINDIA.COM THE STATS Foreign tourist arrivals in India has grown at a rate of 9.7% in 2016, while, Indian nationals departures from India has seen a growth of 7.3% *Source: India Tourism Statistics at a Glance, 2017 by Ministry…

The gurgle of water synced with the rumbling in my stomach. We were cruising in the waters of the Gulf, learning about the lost pearl diving industry of Abu Dhabi. Ravenous, I rummaged through my Mary Poppins magic bag and thanked the blessed friend who had handed me a packet of double chocolate chip cookies at the airport. The crumbles stayed with me for the next three days as I followed the trail to discover the future of Abu Dhabi while sipping a cool drink on a sunny morning at the Saadiyat Beach Club, enjoying F1 cars racing from the balcony of my room as the night lights of Yas Viceroy danced on the façade, and going on a VR journey aboard Etihad’s A380 at the Etihad Innovation Centre. The…

A snazzy restaurant amidst a garden and lagoon, Cantina Kahlo is an ode to Mexican painter Frida Kahlo with a pop of colours, bold patterns, and frames of the artist. The king of this domain, Chef Cesar Daniel de Leon Torres brings trade secrets from Mexico that he complements with authentic ingredients. Start with tortilla chips and guacamole, and dive straight into tacos after this-they have chicken, lamb, sea bass, and beef varieties. The Mexican-style grills are served with rice, salsa, chiles toreados, and tortillas. For desserts, churros with chocolate and caramel are highly recommended. On cooler evenings, you can take your feast to the al fresco Kahlo Club and have horchata while listening to the songs of the sea. ART OF DINING An epicurean journey to the hotel underscores…

1 The iconic Metropolitan Building in Chowringhee was built in 1905. Formerly known as the Whiteway Laidlaw department store, it was restored by Life Insurance Corporation of India post-independence. The building was a popular shopping destination during the British Raj and continues to be a city landmark. 2 When in Kolkata, do not miss a boat ride on River Hooghly. Drift past Babu Ghat, Princep Ghat, Armenian Ghat, Chandpal Ghat, and Jagannath Ghat at sunset and listen to whispers of the city. 3 Kumartuli has a long history of pottery. Here, you will find idols of gods and goddesses, as well as Victorian figuerines. Especially around Durga Puja, the neighbourhood is abuzz with activities-visit a karigar and see how he gives shape to clay. 4 Nakhoda Masjid, was sought to…

Driving around Muscat unveils a dreamy landscape of low-rise, white-washed houses against pink bougainvillea. Muscat’s souk game is on point. It’s a Friday afternoon and I’m at Muttrah Souk, armed with half a dozen crispy cabbage sambusas, waiting for shops to pull up their shutters at 4 pm. Day temperature hovers at a relatively pleasant 32 degree, which shoot up to 49 degrees by mid-June. I’ve pre-plotted my souvenir shopping route through the labyrinth but I am waylaid by kilos of gleaming jewellery. After extricating myself from the maze, I stroll down the Corniche, stopping to gawk at a pretty little boat named Sunflower docked in the port. The US$300 million beauty belongs to Oman’s beloved Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said. She has her own helipad where the Sultan’s…

HARET JDOUDNA RESTAURANT Housed in a 20th century mansion in Madaba, next to the Church that holds the mosaic map of the promised land, this restaurant was created to modernise the ancient property. Relish local flavours and take a tour of the building to examine old mosaics, local crafts, and souvenirs. haretjdoudna.com SUFRA RESTAURANT A favourite of the King and the Queen, Sufra is hands-down the most popular restaurant among Ammanites. Kofta bi tahini and mint tea are must-haves. romero-jordan.com WILD JORDAN CAFE Patrons come here for its stunning views of the Citadel and downtown Amman. Subset of a nature conservation centre, Wild Jordan organises many cultural and adventure events. Don’t leave without having their fruit smoothies. wildjordancenter.com CAVE BAR A rock cave created by the Nabateans 2,000 years ago…

Growing up on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, I found it easy to mock visitors from abroad. “This place,” they’d whisper. “I can go swimming in the morning, skiing in the afternoon, then kayak home for dinner.” The views, the landscape, the wildlife—that was the refrain. Even in the cities, the scenery dominates. On any clear afternoon, look up from the streets of downtown Vancouver and you’ll see the snow-capped North Shore mountains glowing pink, an ostentatious show of natural beauty so commonplace that most residents barely take notice. There were times when visitors’ compliments sounded like admiration for a two-dimensional backdrop. But BC is a complex place, especially when it comes to its aboriginal communities. With a population of just over 4.5 million, the province is home to around 230,000…

Ajman may be a relatively less-explored part of the UAE, but its serene beaches and laidback vibe have been luring tourists looking for a break from Dubai’s relentless buzz. The Oberoi Beach Resort, Al Zorah, among the newest hotels in the region, is reason enough to visit this emirate. A few kilometres from Ajman, in Al Zorah, the resort is a style statement in itself, a lesson in minimalistic design. Set amidst swaying palms along a serene stretch of the beach, the resort is also close to the mangrove forests of Al Zorah that boast rich biodiversity and several species of birds. What we love about it are its spacious villas that come with their private pools; the rooms and suites have private terraces if you want to soak in…

Dawsha MUSICIAN, EGYPT A slow, underground hip-hop and rap movement has been brewing in Egypt, and with the Arab Spring, Tahrir Square became the focal point for many such acts of protest and dissent. Mohamed Ehab, known by his stage name, Dawsha, is an emerging talent in this space; young, driven and full of original ideas, this rapper is already a force to reckon with, thanks to his inimitable style and angst-ridden lyrics that draw from his personal experiences. Listen to him on Soundcloud at soundcloud.com/dawshaa Reif Othman CHEF, DUBAI Dubai is food central; and at the forefront of the emirate’s stellar dining scene is Chef Reif Othman, the man behind the successful Zuma that has outposts in Abu Dhabi and Istanbul besides Dubai. The young Singaporean chef has been…

The Pierre, built by Charles Pierre Casalasco, has been in the limelight since it opened in 1930s. Back in the day, its front row seat on Fifth Avenue caught the fancy of A-list patrons including Elizabeth Taylor, Barbara Walters, and Yves Saint-Laurent, who were often in residence or came for the extravagant balls and afternoon teas. After its US$100 million makeover by Taj, the hotel reopened in 2010 and quickly became the address of a new generation of the rich and the famous. Then last year, one of its signature spaces gave them another reason to make a stop. The Rotunda Room turns the clock back, I realised as I walked past it on my way to the French-American restaurant Perrine. Resurrected last summer, the romantic Rotunda, formerly known as…

india GANGA MAHOTSAV VARANASI | NOVEMBER 11–12 | India’s religious, cultural, and spiritual capital, Varanasi hosts the annual five-day event on the bustling banks of River Ganges. The evening aarti performed to Vedic hymns, as well as performances by the likes of Pandit Birju Maharaj, Pandit Bhimsen Joshi, and Zakir Hussain are the highlights of the event. INDIA ART FESTIVAL NEW DELHI | NOVEMBER 23–26 | This well-curated fair brings together art lovers, designers, and collectors. They can attend the two-day seminar, Conversations, delivered by artists, gallerists, museum directors, historians, and publishers. indiaartfestival.com MARWAR FESTIVAL JODHPUR | OCTOBER 25–26 | The Blue City of Jodhpur celebrates the romantic lifestyle of Rajasthani rulers with folk music and dance. The cultural gala showcases songs that speak of days of yore. Enjoy camel…

Since I can remember, the concept of a weekend away at a friend’s house in the country has had immense charm—the romanticism of arriving by train, passing rolling hills and trickling brooks to eventually be collected and ensconced in a private estate, sheltered from the realities of the outside world. Along the way, this was reinforced by films such as Brideshead Revisited and Peter’s Friends but the reality of a stately escape was not so easy to realise. The irony of it all was that I actually lived in the country so a weekend away to the country seemed a little pointless. Escaping the madness of the city has historically been seen as de rigueur. But with the availability of cheap travel, visiting the country fell out of fashion; however,…

Tricycles weave manically through traffic, leaving a low rumble in their wake. These errant public transportation devices are nifty contraptions—motorcycles fitted with pop-coloured sidecars, each capable of holding an overwhelming number of humans. Their familiar roar was a soundtrack I had grown accustomed to in the Philippines. In Vigan, the capital city of the northern province of Ilocos Sur, the familiar hum was hugely conspicuous in its absence. Instead of the thundering tricycle, there was another, rather melancholy, background score. The clip-clop of horse hooves on cobblestone. In a departure from the jazzed-up motorised vehicles, it is the kalesa—a horse-drawn carriage—that forms the leitmotif of this little town. As Vigan drew closer, the bucolic scenes and Jeepney-infested streets typical of the Philippines gradually fell away to reveal bougainvillea-draped villas and…

MANSAF A national favourite, this dish is made with rice, lamb, and jameed (fermented and dried goatmilk yogurt). It takes hours to prepare and as you take each bite, you’ll know it’s worth the effort. KNAFEH A cheese patty dipped in sweetness and loaded with unique Jordanian flavours is a must-try in Jordan. You’ll find the best preparation at Habibah Sweets in Amman. ZARB Chicken or lamb is cooked with onion, potatoes, and rice in an underground oven. Traditionally cooked by Bedouins of Wadi Rum, this is the real taste of the desert. SESAME BREAD SANDWICH Falafel and sesame bread, loaded with toppings of choice, make this a winner. Try it at the famous Al Quds Restaurant in Amman.…

Last month, Travel + Leisure India & South Asia in association with The Westin Hyderabad Mindspace rolled out a Masterclass in North-West Frontier cuisine at Kangan, the Indian restaurant at the hotel. Executive Chef Rakesh Singh took guests through a live demonstration of chicken rann, nazbu paneer, and peshawari biryani, which was followed by a sumptuous lunch spread. As the afternoon drew to a close, we bid them adieu with a curated box of Indian spices that included The Westin’s unique blend of peshawari masala, and custom-made bangles. Stay updated for news on our upcoming Masterclasses on facebook.com/tnlindia .…

ON A CHILLY MID-APRIL MORNING, MY THREE YOUNG CHILDREN and I were in rural southern Sweden, tramping along a dirt path through dense woods of pine and beech. Suddenly, the sporadic birdcalls were interrupted by the incongruous sounds of electronic music. “Did you hear that?” asked one of my daughters. We all nodded, continuing toward the increasingly audible strains of dreamy techno-pop. Reaching the top of a low ridge, we found ourselves looking into a clearing inhabited by strange, candy-coloured sculptures of insects, acorns, and leaves arrayed on a mirrored floor. With reflections of the surrounding greenery beneath them, this coterie out of Alice in Wonderland melded surreally into the forest. “Cool!” yelled my oldest as she ran ahead. For the next 10 minutes, we shimmied and spun around the space…