Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2017 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

Trends, brands, ideas, products, feelings, people, seasons, fashion—it feels like the world is an airport terminal. And we’re all coming from somewhere, and going somewhere. It definitely feels like that right now, as this is my last edit note for Travel+Leisure India & South Asia. I leave a job that I loved very much, and a brand that is on a wonderful high. We celebrate our 11th anniversary this month, and with all our platforms (print, web, and tablet editions) we reach more people today than we ever did before (and I dare say, more than our competitors do today). We thank you, our readers with insatiable wanderlust, who constantly engage with us on these platforms, keep challenging us to inspire you with deeper travel stories and share with us…

From walking in the Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris to meeting a surrendered ULFA man on a ferry to Majuli, Jerry Pinto has an envious list of travel experiences. Yet, he likes to call himself a tourist, and not really a traveller. “I do not pretend to be anything but a tourist. I think tourists can often be a terrible tribe but I try to be a benign member of a terrible tribe, the BFG (Big Friendly Giant) of my kind,” said Pinto whose body of work spans across film scripts, poetry, translations, fiction, non-fiction, and children’s books. TRAVEL STORIES As someone who has travelled far and wide, Pinto recalled his fondest travel memories: “Eating fresh fish with pao in Istanbul, visiting Brattle Books in Boston for its enormous poetry…

DO YOU KNOW THAT THE AQUARIUM HOLDS MORE THAN 42.8 MILLION LITRES OF WATER? THAT'S ENOUGH TO FILL MORE THAN 17 OLYMPIC-SIZED SWIMMING POOLS! You have spent the night under the stars, now plan a sleepover with the sharks. The S.E.A. Aquarium™ at Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore, is the place to fulfil all your marine fantasies. It is home to more than 100,000 marine creatures belonging to 800 species. At the Shark Seas, you get to watch the scalloped hammerhead shark, the aggressive silvertip shark, and the sandbar shark in action. For an interactive learning experience, head to the Discovery Touch Pool and find out interesting facts about the sea star, pencil sea urchin, and sea cucumber. You can take your kids to meet mantra rays, leopard sharks, and schools…

Designer Margherita Missoni Amos has packing down to a science. So who better to handle an on-the-go style challenge? When she headed to Venice for the opening of this year’s Biennale, she gamely-and effortlessly-mixed a few of our favourite seasonal pieces with her wardrobe staples. COMFORT CLASS “The Gritti Palace hotel is one of my favourite places in the world,” Amos says. She lounged there in FRS For Restless Sleepers pajamas (US$2,705; forrestless sleepers.com) and a Re/ Done T-shirt (US$78; shopredone.com). The sleep set can work for daytime sight-seeing and even be dressed up for an elegant yet insouciant evening look . CREATIVE SPARK “The Biennale always has so much going on, it's impossible to attend everything,” Amos says. But Phyllida Barlow’s installation Folly , at the British pavilion, was…

IN THE BEGINNING OF THE 20th century, seven young artists set out to change the world’s perception about the Canadian landscape (which was then considered unworthy of being painted). As it turned out, the Group of Seven created one of the most significant art movements of the century with a distinct painting style that broke away from the European tradition and showed Canada in a new light. On the 150th anniversary, we revisit the country’s artistic past, dig deeper into its multicultural history and chart out the latest on the calendar.…

WHAT'S HAPPENING RIGHT NOW • Hundreds of hot air balloons will dot the skies of Sussex during the Atlantic International Balloon Fiesta. The festival also hosts other events like teddy bear parade, car show, and craft fair. September 8-10; atlanticballoonfiesta.ca • International artists like Trey Anastasio Band and Matt Andersen & the Bona Fide will join hands with Canadian musicians for a five-day musical fiesta at the Harvest Jazz and Blues Festival. The line-up this year also includes Colin James, Steven Page, and Bruce Cockburn among others. September 12-17; harvestjazzandblues.com • The Beaverbook Art Gallery is celebrating the arrival of its Masterworks collection back home after a four-year North American tour with a special exhibit. Till September 10; beaverbrookartgallery.org WHILE YOU’RE HERE Drive across the world’s longest covered bridge, the…

Walk down Monkey Forest Road, an eclectic shopping street with a bohemian vibe. Pop into stores that call out to you with a wide display of batik prints fashioned into dresses, t-shirts, and scarves. Don’t miss the silver jewellery stores where you can often find a craftsman, embossing a name on a silver ring. Some shops also offer a crash course in silver craftsmanship and the chance to create your very own piece of jewellery. Head to the handicraft stores where leaves are fashioned into baskets, coasters, and wall hangings. Instead of fridge magnets, take home these traditional goodies to mark your trip to Bali.…

Siblings Hannah and Steven Gordon Holman grew up on a cattle ranch in the rural town of Leamington (population 230), amid the epic landscapes of central Utah. When Hannah, 26, was a high school sophomore, a modelling agent discovered her at a local shopping mall. In the decade since, she has walked in shows for Louis Vuitton and Chanel and become the face of Marc Jacobs’s Daisy perfume. She’s currently a freshman at Columbia University in New York, but she often returns to Utah to visit family. Steven, 29, moved back to Leamington with his wife, Anna, in 2015 after studying art and design in the Northeast. He now raises American Paint horses and makes western-inspired jewellery. Hannah and Steven’s part of the state “is such a great place to…

ARTISANAL COFFEES IN INDIA YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT Taste the best artisanal coffee at our top picks from across the country. Ditch the commercial, mass produced brands and go for their Indian counterparts right now. travelandleisureindia.in/ artisanalcoffees A TRAVELLER WHO NEVER REPEATS THE SAME EXPERIENCE TWICE To experience the most of what is available in the world, traveller Kshitiz Dhall never repeats an experience. He tells us why it’s worth the pain. travelandleisureindia.in/ traveller-who-never-repeats T+L PICKS: 10 THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT PORTO Voted 2017’s Best European Destination, Porto is historic yet trendy, cultured yet bohemian. We find out 10 insider secrets of this charming city. travelandleisureindia.in/ why-welove-porto DOWNLOAD US T+L Tablet Editions Available on iPad, Android, and Windows Tablets. FOLLOW US INSTAGRAM/ TRAVELANDLEISUREINDIA FACEBOOK.COM…

International bestselling author Mark Zusak has been on the bookshelf since 1999. Having published five successful books and received critical acclaim for The Book Thief (that was later adapted on screen in a Brian Percival war film in 2013), Zusak is an inspiration to young authors. Does a character or situation get you started on a new book? Sometimes neither, sometimes both. I tend to think of a book idea coming together as a beginning, an end, then a title. The title usually comes to me very early on. Or at least well before I start writing. In a sense, I almost always write the book towards the title. The title usually figures heavily in the writing of the book. As an example, Liesel is often referred to as ‘the…

If we look at the map of Odisha, the number of wildlife spots is higher than that of the temples, monuments, and beaches—for which the state is otherwise popular for. Now that the monsoons are over, take out those safari boots and set out to spot some rare creatures in the Eastern Ghats. 1 GAHIRMATHA MARINE WILDLIFE SANCTUARY Gahirmatha Beach on the shores of Bay of Bengal is the site of spectacular mass breeding of the Oliver Ridley sea turtles. Every year more than half a million turtles migrate to the beach from the Pacific Ocean, making it the largest nesting ground in the world. The breeding is in such a large scale that at least 2,00,000 baby Olive Ridley turtles reportedly came out of their pits within a span…

Travel+Leisure India & South Asia in association with InterContinental Chennai Mahabalipuram Resort recently hosted a Masterclass in Western and Cotemporary Chinese Cuisines with Executive Chef Avinash Naha at The Melting Pot: Market Café. Here, Chef Naha demonstrated Shanghai Chicken Dim Sums, Ricotta Stuffed Eggplant, Baby Sea Bass and Lotus Stem. He ended the session by taking guests through different textures of chocolate. A hearty lunch and lots of conversations later, the guests left with a box of fine teas curated by T+L India Editor, Ruchira Bose. 1. The chefs at InterContinental Chennai Mahabalipuram Resort give a warm Indian welcome to guests. 2. Shanghai Chicken Dim Sums are served at the event. 3. Guests pose for the Masterclass Moment. 4. Vegetables are sautéed for the ricotta. 5. Guests watch Chef Naha…

Oh, man, I’m jealous as hell,” the guy said, shaking his head, when I told him I’d be spending the Fourth of July weekend at Flathead Lake, in northwestern Montana. We were in Hamilton, at the southern end of the Bitterroot Valley—not exactly ugly country. The snow-crowned brows of the Sapphire Mountains (where you can pan yourself a sapphire in the tailings of the area’s numerous mines) peered down at us through the window of the coffee shop where he was pulling my iced mocha. The man himself was heading to the Madison River, near West Yellowstone, a worldwide destination for fly-fishing. But even in a state as naturally blessed as Montana, which has more than 3,000 lakes, Flathead has distinction. Not only because it runs longer than a marathon—it’s…

Seminyak Village Paddy fields made way for this shopping mall, but not all is lost. The mall sports several local names and you’ll find stores that give a boost to traditional handicrafts. Bring home a hand-woven bamboo phone case or a straw hat. seminyakvillage.com Mama San Dishes from across South East Asia feature on the menu. Start with grilled Thai beef salad, then get a taste of China with the roasted peking duck complemented by the steamed choy sum and red bean sauce. At end of the meal, you will enjoy a hint of India: Chai tea caramel custard served with cashew-nut ice cream. mamasanbali.com Potato Head Beach Club, Kerobokan If you want to mix with the crowd, show up at the Potato Head Beach Club that lures visitors with…

NOT A GLIMMER OF LIGHT OR A SOUND IN THE STREETS. BARELY 5PM, BUT SIKKIM’S MOUNTAIN SKIES WERE BLACK AS INK. THE KANCHENJUNGA RANGE ENVELOPS THE TINY VILLAGE OF DARPA. The sun, like the roads, had vanished hours earlier—one swallowed by clouds, the other by rain. Shivering under my backpack and parka, I trudged up rough-hewn stairs etched into a steep, silent mountainside. For the eve of Diwali, it was eerily dark and silent. I thought of home, a thousand miles away—likely to be warm and filled with light and familiar noises. My old friend Anu and I were heading to the Daragaon Village Retreat, a mountaintop homestay in the tiny hamlet of Darap, six kilometres from Pelling in West Sikkim. An idyllic mountain village in the lap of the…

DAY ONE Start in Delta, two hours south of Salt Lake City, with French dip and fries or fajitas at the Rancher Motel & Café (171 W Main St; 435-864-2741), where Hannah waited tables years ago. Just down the street is West Desert Collectors (fb.com/west-desert-collectors), a shop owned by the siblings’ aunt and uncle that specialises in collectible fossils and mineral specimens. Also in town is the just-opened Topaz Museum (topaz museum.org), which tells the story of the 11,000 Japanese-Americans held in an internment camp nearby during World War II. About 45 minutes south, Meadow Hot Spring (utahoutdooractivities.com) is a crystalline natural mineral bath on private property that is open to the public. Farther east, visit Pando, a grove of 47,000 genetically identical, interconnected quaking aspens just off Highway 25…

“It is tedious to tell again tales already plainly told.” —HOMER, THE ODYSSEY It is unusual that my introduction to an iconic city has been through a novel or a movie. As a young girl yearning to see the world, Princess Ann’s escape on a Vespa to find excitement in her life (in Roman Holiday) left me with hopeful fancies of the day when I would see Rome. It happened many, many years later—my Vespa was red in colour, my rider an Italian with no knowledge of English, and my adventures documented by my own camera. I was in the Eternal City, for the first time in June this year for the opening of Le Meridien Visconti Rome, the brand’s only hotel in the capital. The 1974 hotel had a…

Art conservation is considered a ‘western’ concept, yet across Asia, devoted and learned patrons of Buddhism have for centuries funded the restoration of cultural heritage through ‘offerings of merit’ (or what we call zhabten in Bhutan). In Bhutan, our cultural heritage is undoubtedly rich, and stems in large part from our Buddhist history. But the rugged terrain of the Himalayas has never lent itself well to verbal communication, and so it has relied heavily, over the centuries, on murals and pictorial histories for its sustainability. The thangka—a Buddhist scroll painting—is perhaps the best example of this. When one journeyed for days on foot across valleys to villages that spoke almost unintelligible dialects, it was the thangka’s nuanced use of symbolism and iconography, coupled with depictions of local historical patrons and…

Shoreditch, the edgy East London neighbourhood that hugs the city’s financial and tech districts, is in flux. Once known for its kebab shops and clubs, the 2007 arrival of Shoreditch House marked the start of a new era, drawing the creative and media crowds . Now it is evolving again, into a more sophisticated, well-heeled destination . Here, our pick of the soigné spots to visit. 1 The Curtain From the Gansevoort's Michael Achenbaum comes this industrial-chic hotel—his first outside the US. With its rooftop pool, soundproofed disco, and restaurant by Red Rooster Chef Marcus Samuelsson, it is already attract ing the work-hard, play-hard set. Doubles from US$309; entrées US$21–US$37; the curtain.com 2 Modern Society This concept store and café offers smart home accessories, such as textural ceramics by Hasami…

Travellers are finding new ways to experience the iconic Victoria Falls, with zip lining, bungee jumping, and swimming as top winners. Base yourself at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, located four kilometres from the majestic falls, and check off all these experiences from your bucket list. Or, just have a rendezvous with nature that the lodge built on a plateau with sweeping views of the bushveld offers to its guests. Imagine yourself watching the sunset from the glass doors of your suite, stepping into the balcony to get a glimpse of elephants, buffaloes, and hyenas making their way to the waterhole. The waterhole-facing duplex suite has an open staircase leading to the bedroom on the upper level, a lounge, and an ensuite bathroom. The lodge keeps an activity book for sightings…

The Amsterdam-based graphic designer-turned-photographer, Dirk Bakker captures architectural shapes and designs in his photographs. A purveyor of graphic forms, he has become a social media influencer with a follower base of 413K. Bakker is also one of the founding members of @SeeMyCity, an international initiative that inspires people to share unique photographs of their cities. This month, he shares his favourite clicks that play with patterns, shadows, graphics, and symmetry. For more inspiration, check his works on instagram.com/macenzo.…

I was at Sumitra Kalapatapu’s house along with two others, relishing the freshly-cooked dishes that emerged from her kitchen. Sumitra specialises in Andhra Brahmin food and serves it with great delight to small groups that she invites to her house in the Bengaluru suburbs. For our lunch, she had prepared mirapakai bajji, pappu, pulusu, charu, koora, appadalu, perugu mirapakai, avak-kayulu (pickles), and semiya payasa. Sumitra is part of the growing tribe of ‘home chefs.’ That’s the food industry’s jargon for someone who cooks his or her native cuisine extremely well and loves hosting strangers for a meal. Home chefs are at the heart of the small culinary revolution stirring across urban India in the last few years. A revolution that has ushered a resurgence of several small community cuisines. India…

WHAT’S HAPPENING RIGHT NOW • The colourful Pride Festival, Arc-en-ciel, returns to Quebec City with drag queen shows, outdoor music, and a host of other fun events. September 1-4; rcencielquebec.ca • The Musee national des beaux-arts is rolling out the carpet for a special exhibition, The Fabulous Destiny of the Paintings of the Abbes Desjardins that celebrates the arrival of over 20 paintings by renowned artists from the 17th and 18th centuries from France. Till September 4; mnbaq.org • Cabaret Moda in Gay Village is one of the last standing testimonies to Montreal’s vibrant past. Go there solo or with a group of friends to laugh your heart out at the most entertaining acts by artists, both veteran and new. mado.qc.ca WHILE YOU’RE HERE Spend a quiet moment at Sainte…

WHAT’S HAPPENING RIGHT NOW • The Royal British Columbia Museum is offering a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity of a sleepover at the historic building. Meet fellow history-buffs as you explore the various alleys and corners of the grand museum. September 30- October 1; royalbcmuseum.bc.ca • The best of Canadian and Pacific Northwest craft brewing industry will be spread out at the Whistler Beer Festival in Vancouver. Choose from a variety of craft beer and relax in the scenic environs of the Whistler village while enjoying your favourite music. September 13-17; whistler.ca • Usher in the Halloween spirit in the dramatic backdrop of Fort Langley national historic site. The Fort Langley Family Halloween also organises ghost walks with expert story-tellers in the village as part of the festivities. October 28-29; hellobc.com WHILE YOU’RE…

On a Saturday morning last month, Travel+Leisure India & South Asia in association with American Express® and World Of Hyatt hosted a Masterclass in Italian cuisine at Celini, the Italian restaurant at Grand Hyatt Mumbai. Guests were treated to live demonstrations of Pesto with Gnocchi and Beetroot Ravioli by resident Chef Alessandro Persico. After the culinary session and a scrumptious brunch, Chef Persico broke into an Italian song and amused everybody present. As the day drew to a close, guests departed with good memories and a goodie bag of herbal teas curated by us. 1. Simon Clays, Publishing Director, Exposure Media Marketing Pvt Ltd, presents Chef Alessandro Persico with the Certificate of Recognition. 2. A fine serving of Pesto with Gnocchi at the event. 3. Guests enjoy the brunch after…

road–tested SUITCASES SOFT-SIDED CARRY-ON We love this bag’s lifetime warranty and locking expansion mechanism for hauling more stuff. Briggs & Riley Transcend Expandable Spinner, US$429. AFFORDABLE CARRY-ON There’s a reason every crew member carries this brand: its bags are spacious, well-priced, and nearly indestructible. Travelpro Platinum Magna 2, US$300. HARD-SIDED CHECKED CASE The metal shell can withstand the abuse of baggage handling, but it weighs only 17 pounds. Tumi 19 Degree Aluminium Extended Packing Case , US$1,395. HARD-SIDED CARRY-ON Even when stuffed to the gills, it zips through the terminal-and over rough terrain-with ease. Rimowa Salsa Air, US$495. SMART SUITCASE A tech-centric bag that truly delivers, with an appcontrolled scale and tracker, plus built-in charging ports . Raden A28 Check, US$395. SOFT-SIDED CHECKED CASE This behemoth is the toughest bag…

 Two days in Paris researching the city’s patisseries. Call it Paris by pastry. Chef YOTAM OTTOLENGHI— the acclaimed London restaurateur, cookbook author, and poster boy for modern Mediterranean cooking—goes in search of the French capital’s best patisseries. I sometimes have to remind myself that this is, indeed, my job. Yet for all the “You’re doing what?!” and “That will be incredible!” comments in the days leading up to my trip, there was a small part of me that was a little bit intimidated. I had spent the past two years working on a book about desserts and baked goods. Every Wednesday I would sit down to try the recipes with my co-author, Helen Goh, and see what stage of development each one was at. After months of working this way,…

Du Pain et Des Idées Innovation meets tradition at this 10th Arrondissement boulangerie. dupain etdesidees.com Shangri-La Hôtel The vegan afternoon tea service is surprisingly decadent. shangri-la.com Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie Creative pastries served alongside excellent coffee in two locations. yanncouvreur.com Des Gâteaux et du Pain This boulangerie’s two locations offer whimsical pastries and cakes. des gateaux et dupain.com L’Éclair de Génie A dazzling range of éclairs in 280 flavours, sold at nine branches around the city. leclairde genie.com Boulangerie Bo Imaginative bread and cakes, sold in an unfussy 12th Arrondissement setting. fb.com/ boulangeriebo Benoît Castel Ménilmontant Sophisticated baking in a laid-back, family-friendly environment. benoitcastel.com Jacques Génin The best place to pick up chocolates, pâtes de fruits, and caramels to take home. jacquesgenin.fr…

Last summer, in the foothills of the Swiss Alps, I found a garden in the clouds. I reached it by taking a rattling monorail up the slopes of Mont Dessous, though for most visitors the journey is a steep but scenic half-hour hike. At the top was Jardin des Monts, an organic farm where three entrepreneurs craft a line of herbal teas, syrups, and beauty products. You can buy these wares in boutiques in Gstaad or Zurich, but to really appreciate them, it’s vital to experience the terraced slopes and Alpine air of the place where they’re made. I was greeted by the young owner, Charlotte Landolt-Nardin, and a landscape so idyllic it barely felt real. Drystone walls bordered garden beds where lavender and marigold blooms stood bright against the…