Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2017 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

On the seashore of endless worlds children meet. The infinite sky is motionless overhead and the restless water is boisterous. On the seashore of endless worlds the children meet with shouts and dances. They build their houses with sand, and they play with empty shells. With withered leaves they weave their boats and smilingly float them on the vast deep. Children have their play on the seashore of worlds. They know not how to swim, they know not how to cast nets. Pearl-fishers dive for pearls, merchants sail in their ships, while children gather pebbles and scatter them again. They seek not for hidden treasures, they know not how to cast nets. The sea surges up with laughter, and pale gleams the smile of the sea-beach. Death-dealing waves sing meaningless…

Most travellers to Taiwan get a taste of its urban life via Taipei, the country’s dense and dynamic capital. Few have ever had much of a reason to linger in Taichung, Taiwan’s third-largest city, beyond using it as a way station en route to hiking trails and hot springs in the surrounding mountains. But lately Taichung has been changing. Hop on the high-speed rail from Taipei and 45 minutes later you’ll find yourself in a city that’s emerging as one of Asia’s newest hubs of creativity and culture. Food lovers have been flocking to the city since 2014, when Chef Lanshu Chen’s French-inspired restaurant Le Moût (tasting menus from US$115; lemout.com) was first named one of Asia’s 50 Best. More recently, government loans have paved the way for young entrepreneurs…

THE REVERENT NATURE LOVER You know a man means business when he earnestly tries to raise the level of your consciousness about the world around. Mike Pandey is the iconic film-maker whose documentaries have brought legislative changes to protect wildlife in India. It’s bound to be an interesting day, when you are about to meet a man who has watched nature this up-close-and- personal. Mike Pandey, the three-time Green Oscar winner and one of the most prolific film-makers India has ever produced, is a magnificent storyteller. Sitting in his tastefully done Riverbank Studios in Delhi, Pandey tells me about one of his most dangerous encounters in the wild. “We were in the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, trying to film a newborn elephant. We stopped at a safe distance from the…

The arid region of Leh and Ladakh is peppered with Buddhist monasteries and stupas. The Lamayuru Monastery—perched on a steep rock mountain at 3,500 metres—is one of the oldest monasteries in Leh and is affiliated to Drikung Kagyu school of Buddhism. Almost in ruins today, Lamayuru hosts two masked dance festivals every year in the months of March and June, where monks and villagers perform traditional dance in colourful costumes. Surrounding it is a surreal moon-like landscape that excites both photographers and trekkers. The best time to visit the region is from June to September as the roads are clear and snow-free.…

From scenic alpine peaks to a beautiful coastline, from the mysterious Karst plateau riddled with underground caves to charming walled towns—Slovenia is a delightful discovery in this part of Europe. The country, which lies on the sunny side of the Alps, also has a vibrant folk culture and plenty of adventure activities. Here’s what you can do. NATURAL RETREATS Slovenia is one of the world’s most sustainable tourist destinations. Take a tour of the Triglav National Park and get a good view of the 2,864 metre limestone peak, Triglav (three heads), believed to be home to the three-headed local deity. Get mesmerised by the bizarre, jaw-dropping structures formed by stalagmites and stalactites at Postojna Caves or Skocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you’re lucky, you might get to…

I have barely left the airport and we’ve already taken the sharp right turn, down a dusty side road that we could have nearly missed seeing. As the wrought iron gates that lie before me creak open to reveal a definitively Portuguese edifice, I feel a sense of nostalgia for the future: I’d rather like to own a house like this. Matieu greets me with the effortless charm that only the French can muster. How was my flight? Anything for lunch? How about the Caprese salad? Bon appetite. An air of tranquility sweeps its way through the inner courtyard, welcome as an afternoon zephyr. As I sat out on a breezy terrace, watching the Zuari River ebb and flow away, so too does the babble of modern day life. This,…

You won’t know you’re nearing Arijiju until you have already arrived. The house is built into the Laikipia foothills north of Mount Kenya, its grass-covered roof and rough stone walls making it appear, from afar, like part of the landscape. The effect is one of inevitability—as if the property were always meant to be there. Most visitors come to Kenya for the wildlife, and the 32,000-acre Borana Conservancy surrounding Arijiju teems with all manner of creatures. But, unlike most safari properties, this lodge feels like a destination in itself. Built as a vacation retreat by a Londoner with African roots, it’s now available for exclusive-use rental . The 14-person staff, which includes butlers, chefs, and a masseuse, is warm and attentive, lighting crackling fires at bedtime and delivering coffee to…

MUMBAI IS INDIA’S LARGEST PORT Ratnagiri For homestays, tranquillity, and nature. WHEN FEBRUARY TO MAY FOR WHO FAMILIES AND GOURMET TRAVELLERS Located 335 kilometres from Mumbai, Ratnagiri has hills on one side and the Arabian Sea on the other. Close to town, there are undisturbed and underrated beaches such as Velas, Diveagar, and Guhagar that offer an insight into the Konkan lifestyle. DO • Home to the famous Alphonso mango, Ratnagiri is the perfect spot if you want to indulge in mango picking, and of course, eat them fresh from the tree. • Try Konkan-style fish curry and balance its spicy flavours with sol kadi, a pink-coloured drink. Local snacks such as ambapoli and phanaspoli are must-try. STAY • Blue Ocean Resort & Spa offers a classic beach resort experience…

TUTICORIN PORT DATES BACK TO THE SIXTH CENTURY. Puducherry For history, sea, and coffee. WHEN NOVEMBER TO FEBRUARY FOR WHO PEOPLE WHO LOVE FRENCH COLONIAL CHARM The French colony of Puducherry is home to some of the most hip cafes in the country, undisturbed beaches, and the experiential township of Auroville. DO • Be it a film festival, coffee roasting class, water therapy, or yoga, the township of Auroville has something for everyone. • Take a walk around the only sea facing French quarters of Puducherry that reeks of its historical past. STAY • French architecture and luxurious setting of La Villa give a break from cookie-cutter stays. lavillapondicherry.com • Stay at Temple Tree Retreat to be closer to all the action at Auroville. templetreeretreat.com Local Take “For a heritage…

HALDIA IS THE OLDEST RIVER PORT IN INDIA. Sundarbans For the love of nature. WHEN NOVEMBER TO MARCH FOR WHO CONSERVATIONISTS AND TIGER-LOVERS A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is the land of the man-eating tiger, home to the largest mangrove forest in the world, and a unique species of river dolphins. DO • Explore the mangroves of Sundarbans on a luxury cruise operated by Vivada as it sails through every nook and cranny of the forest. vivadacruises.com • Head to the isolated beach of Bakkhali, located at a distance of 138 kilometres off Sundarbans. Exclusive pirate parties at Bakkhali are run by crossindia.in. STAY • Sundarban Tiger Camp is situated in the national park. This handcrafted camp allows you to experience the jungle in an untouched, unembellished way. waxpolhotels.com…

Perched on the hill above Athens, the ancient site of Acropolis is one of the most dramatic settings to watch performances and events. Surviving wars and invasions, the monuments and shrines such as the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Propylaia, and the Temple of Athena Nike fill one with a sense of awe. In 1983, the hill’s history inspired the world’s toughest race starting from the foot of the Acropolis. Legend has it that Pheidippides covered the distance from Athens to Sparta in 490BC to get help against Persian intruders. A lover of Greek history, British air-force officer and runner John Foden wanted to know if it was possible to cover the distance (250 kilometres) in 36 hours, so he set off with some friends, and was successful in his attempt.…

Growing up in the mountains of Jammu and Himachal, I have always felt a deep connection with Kashmir and its surreal landscapes. It was my fascination for the destination that prompted me to set sail to Srinagar, for an unplanned solo trip. Venturing beyond Srinagar, I was welcomed by a painting-like scenery-a river cutting through the green fields, with majestic mountains in the background. I was looking at the unexplored and untainted Gurez Valley. Located in the Himalayas, about 130 kilometres from the capital, Gurez falls along the ancient Silk Route, which connected the Kashmir Valley with Gilgit and Kashgar. It has ancestral ties with the Gilgit Valley (now in Pakistan), but because of its proximity to the Line of Control, it remains heavily militarised. During your stay in the…

When we set off on our four-day trek in Ladakh, through the Hemis National Park, our itinerary included night stays in homes in different villages. Little did we know that the homes would spring a series of surprises. During our trek in Uttarakhand, we had stayed in rest houses that offered great views and a mountain of warm but itchy quilts. We slept in candlelit rooms. On one unforgettable trek, we had taken shelter in a shepherd’s stone hut through a long, rainy deluge, with smoke pouring in from the kitchen and water rushing in rivulets through the walls. As we made our way we hoped our homestays would be better. A room in a hut, though dimly lit, would still be homely. But would it be cold? Damp? Noisy?…

Ask a group of safari specialists to pick an emerging destination for 2017, and you’ll hear Zambia mentioned again and again. That’s because the southern African country—home to Victoria Falls, 20 national parks, and some of the continent’s best wildlife—is hitting its stride as a high-end option, thanks to improved access and some impressive lodge openings. “Zambia has the greatest all-round wilderness experience in Africa, alongside Botswana,” said Giles Trotter, director of the online safari portal Timbuktu (timbuktutravel.com). “You can see animals by canoe and on foot, so safaris are really varied.” The newly-expanded airport in Livingstone, which reopened last year, has made journeys more comfortable, and the governments of Zimbabwe and Zambia agreed to a joint visa, allowing visitors to enter both countries on one permit. There are also…

1 THE BLACK MAMBAS The only majority-female anti-poaching unit in Africa, this 35-member squad protects five regions of the Balule Nature Reserve in South Africa. When they aren’t tracking down poachers, the team is educating communities about the importance of preserving their natural heritage. black mambas.org 3 VIRUNGA’S FEMALE RANGERS The Democratic Republic of the Congo’s Virunga National Park is one of the most dangerous reserves in the world, and the paramilitaries protecting it take only the toughest rangers. In 2014, the team accepted its first female members, 14 of whom now patrol the park. visitvirunga.org 2 THE CHOBE ANGELS When the managers of Botswana’s Chobe Game Lodge set out to hire more women as guides in 2005, they didn’t realise they were on the road to creating the first all-female…

ANDHRA PRADESH HAS SECOND LONGEST COASTLINE IN INDIA. Vizag A beachside metropolls experincing a food revolution. WHEN DURING VIZAG BEACH FESTIVAL IN FEBRUARY FOR WHO MARITIME ENTHUSIASTS AND FOODIES One of India’s oldest harbour towns replete with calm beaches is today an IT hub and home to leading restaurants serving international as well as coastal Andhra fares. DO • Satisfy your curiosity of being in a Russian submarine by visiting the Submarine Museum of Vizag. • A three-hour drive from the city, the coffee plantations of Araku Valley will leave you spellbound with its picturesque scenery. STAY • Four Points by Sheraton Vizag offers warm hospitality and great South Indian cuisine. starwoodhotels.com • Opt for a sea-facing executive suite at The Gateway Hotel Beach Road Visakhapatnam. gateway.tajhotels.com Local Take “Vizag…

AT half past 11, three silhouettes left a hotel and walked on to the dark pavement outside. The trio was the most unlikely to be caught together on a lazy night in a small city like Goris: a middle-aged tourist guide, a 60-something former rock musician, and an Indian traveller in her late 20s. The winter was long gone, its remnants had lingered in the air like the after effects of deep slumber. The dark, desolate neighbourhood had spilled on to the sidewalk: A few low beam tubelights made incongruous puddles to illuminate the ground, and the only movement on the long empty stretch ahead were the flickering human shadows. I’d regretted the moment we stepped out; it had been a long day already and we had just arrived from…

The Maruti Suzuki Sports Illustrated Sportsperson of the Year Awards brought together the best of sporting glory and glamour. The event, held at ITC Grand Central, Mumbai, highlighted the spirit of sportsmanship as we celebrated the achievements of India’s brightest sports stars. Badminton ace P.V. Sindhu won the Sportsperson of the Year award, while other awardees included Abhinav Bindra, Deepa Malik, Pullela Gopichand, Gaurav Gill, the junior men’s hockey team, and the indomitable Milkha Singh. Special Editor’s Awards For Excellence were also presented to Paralympians Devendra Jhajharia, Varun Bhati and Mariyappan Thangavelu, and an award for Outstanding Contribution to Sports was given to K. Arumugam for his One Thousand Hockey Legs initiative. The event saw its share of emotional moments, when Sindhu awarded her mentor, Gopichand, the Coach of the…

Surrounded by vineyards, storybook castles and cathedrals, with magnificent views of the Swiss Alps, Lake Geneva is for the dreamy traveller in us. The lake is shared between Switzerland and France, and is dotted with picturesque towns of Lausanne, Montreux, Nyon, Evian, among several others. EXPLORE Watch out for the most stunning scenery as you cruise the lake on a luxury boat from the Belle Époque era. See the lake changing its colour, or be witness to the occasional ocean-like moments with surf and waves. The most beautiful stretch on the Lake Geneva cruise is between Lausanne and Montreux, where the Alps form a constant backdrop and the Lavaux vineyards are seen on the northern shores. CHOOSE YOUR CRUISE Lake Geneva caters to all travellers. Go for a day-long trip…

As London pulsates with festivals and open-air activities, escape to The Lalit London, strategically located on Tooley Street. Whether you want to take a stroll by the riverside or admire the tallest building in United Kingdom, The Shard, the boutique hotel is close to many of London’s stunning attractions. Enjoy one of the warmest months of the year in London, and be assured of being warmly greeted with two hands pressed together in ‘namaskaar’ by the staff dressed in full Indian attire. Old Meets New Housed in a 180-year-old Tudor-inspired red-brick building that was once a grammar school, the 70 individually crafted rooms and suites are reminiscent of a classroom and are named so too. The Headmaster’s room, redecorated as Lalit Legacy Suite, features ornamented ceilings and warm oak paneling.…

On the northern shore of Lage Maggiore is the lowest lying town in Switzerland. Ascona, in Ticino, feels like an Italian village with Vespa-driving, Italian-speaking Swiss. With its balmy weather, fashion boutiques and art galleries, and fine foods and wines, the lakefront town is a perfect summer getaway. Lounge by the lake or stop by a café on the lake promenade; visit the old town of Borgo and the beautiful church of San Pietro e Paolo; take a boat ride to Brissago Islands on the lake that have 1,700 plant species. There are numerous hiking and biking trails all around in-Switzerland, the Alps are never too far. If you’re visiting in September, attend the classical music festival, Settimane Musicali di Ascona (September 4 – October 17; settimane-musicali.ch) and listen to…

My recent collection, The Sacred Forest, is inspired by the forests of Mangar in Faridabad, Haryana. According to the folklore, the spirit of a mystic, Baba Gudariya, resides in the forest. He is believed to have attained enlightenment in a cave there. The villagers never cut a tree in Mangar. As a result, the forest is home to several endangered species like the Dhau. In the collection, we have romanced intense florals, and incorporated life of a wandering nomad. The dresses are light, feminine and strong enough to pass on to the next generation.…

If you could touch and walk around heaven, what would it be like? I picture it as a house atop a hillock, surrounded by white snow peaks, with the warmth of the mountain sun. And this summer I got the closest I could to this reverie. In Uttarakhand’s tiny hamlet of Talwari, about 245 kilometres from Dehradun, I walk on the forest trails and across apple orchards to arrive at the charming Tridiva by SaffronStays. ‘Tridiva’ loosely translates to ‘heaven’ in Sanskrit, and this three-bedroom villa does justice to the name. Uninterrupted green landscapes help create a sense of tranquility at this homestay. Tall, manicured deodar trees and terraces growing mustard and other local vegetables surround the area. I sit in the balcony to get a magnificient view of the…

BEST TIMES TO GO Fall (April to June) and spring (September to December), when temperatures are mild and hotel rates relatively low. Outdoor concerts and markets are common in January and October. GETTING THERE Fly non-stop from Atlanta, Dallas, Houston, Miami, or New York City. GETTING AROUND Many areas are walkable, or take a taxi or Uber (helpful if you don’t speak Spanish). Old world blends with new in Argentina’s capital, a city of 3 million known for its Belle Époque buildings, Italian-influenced food, and Spanish-inspired nightlife. Lately, as restaurateurs and gallerists have begun taking cues from cities as diverse as Mexico City and Tokyo, B.A. has become one of the most exciting, cosmopolitan destinations in South America. And with the dollar still strong against the Argentinean peso, there’s never…

For a long time, going on safari basically meant one thing: observing wildlife from the inside of a jeep. These days, however, discerning travellers want to go deeper. Instead of being told about the animals, and efforts to conserve them, they want to participate—whether spending the day with an anti-poaching unit or taking part in a rhino-relocation mission. According to Michael Lorentz, of safari specialist Passage to Africa, the itinerary of the future is driven by experience, rather than by creature comforts. “It has become about what you did, the people you met who are making a difference,” Lorentz said, noting many guests want privileged access to one-off conservation missions, such as witnessing African Parks’ translocation of elephants in Malawi (six days from US$7,500; passagetoafrica.com). Even first-timers booking safaris to…

VASCO DA GAMA LANDED IN CALICUT IN 1498. Thalassery For an amalgamation of Europe and Kerala. WHEN ALL YEAR ROUND FOR WHO SEAFOOD LOVERS, AND THE ROMANTICS A significant seaside town during the centuries of colonisation, Thalassery is the land of three Cs: Circus, Cakes, and Cricket as all these three found its entry to India, here. DO • Drive your car onto the sands of Muzhappilangad drive-in beach, voted by BBC as one of the world’s top six beaches. • Go hunting for speciality oysters all across the town, from the beach to the bus station. STAY • Ayisha Manzil Homestay was built in 1900 in traditional Kerala style-architecture. The bungalow has deluxe rooms, a pool overlooking the sea, and serves delicious Mopilah dishes. ayishamanzil.com • SwaSwara Resort overlooks…

COASTAL LENGTH 480 KMS Puri Surf’s up in a historic town. WHEN DURING THE PURI BEACH FESTIVAL, USUALLY IN NOVEMBER FOR WHO FAMILIES, CULTURE VULTURES, AND SURFERS The holy town, well renowned for its stunning temples and religious festivals, is also a bucket-list destination for surfers. DO • Camp on the empty beach of Ramchandi, learn to surf, or to perform ‘yoga on water.’ • Visit the heritage village of Raghurajpur where the heritage craft of Pattachitra—cloth-based scroll painting—is kept alive by local artists. STAY • Pramod Convention & Beach Resort is a beachfront property with modern rooms. pramodresorts.com • Mayfair Heritage is a beach-facing luxury resort built in the classic Odisha style. mayfairhotels.com A FESTIVAL LIKE NO OTHER In November, the scenic stretch of sand on Puri-Konark Marine Drive…

Our family trip to Menorca should have been remembered as any number of things: the summer vacation when my daughter learned to snorkel, that time my dad ate a lobster’s face, the week of 17 impossibly perfect beaches. And it was all that, but halfway through our stay it also became the time my wife found out her mother was dying. We had rented a house along the Spanish island’s southern coast, in a community called Binibèquer. It sounds like Binny Baker when people say it. We had a running joke about Binny Baker, whom we imagined as a legendary British comedian and predecessor to Benny Hill who’d retired to Menorca. Binibèquer is like an appealing Mediterranean version of a Florida enclave, with white cement and plaster houses clustered around…