Innholdsfortegnelse for July 2017 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

I’M A BENGALI. AND THAT MEANS, WHEN I’M ON A HOLIDAY, I’M ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE WHO PLAN WHAT THEY’LL HAVE FOR LUNCH WHILE THEY ARE STILL EATING BREAKFAST. I remember once when I was four, we were visiting my cousins in Benaras. They had mango orchards behind the house, and I remember spending days sitting under the trees mushing mangoes and sucking out the pulp from the top. My grandfather would plan our summer holidays in a way that our itinerary would time with the arrival of different mango varieties—we’d go from UP’s dussehri, langda, and chausa, to Bengal’s himshagor. Each one’s flavour, and the style in which they were best eaten were intricately linked to where they were grown. Another year, my parents took me on a handmade…

Oberoi brings back memories of local food from his travels. His favourites have been frog legs that he tried in Barcelona and blood sausages in Salamanca. HEAD CHEF >> DHRUV OBEROI The young chef›graduated from the Chandigarh Institute of Hotel Management and trained under heavyweights such as Chefs Ferran Adrià and Albert Adrià at Tickets (a tapas bar in Barcelona)› almost did not become a chef. He was offered the job of a flight steward at 17, but instead, chose to train with Olive Bar and Kitchen (olivebarandkitchen.com), in Delhi. Its legacy, championed by Chef Sujan Sarkar, has grown leaps and bounds with his vision and innovations. SOMETHING MANY DON’T KNOW “I worked with a mithaiwala in my college days and learnt to make soan papdi.” STRESS BUSTER Relaxing at…

At 18, when he entered the largest Australian culinary competition-Salon Culinaire-Scott Pickett was referred to as the ‘one to watch’ by Judge Bruno Cerdan. With successful stints at Paul Bocuse and The Point thereafter, he moved on to helm three of his own restaurants in Melbourne. We ask him what a summer day is like Down Under. AN IDEAL DAY On a day off, I’ll visit a lot of restaurants in the city. In summer, I’d go out for breakfast around Queen Victoria Market (qvm.com. au). It’s an iconic Melbourne institution where locals hang out for coffee. I have a new place there (Pickett’s Deli & Rotisserie; pickettsdeli.com) where you can stop for chicken rolls. IF A VIEW COULD KILL I ride motorbikes and have some single seaters so I…

Shoes are like relationships . You must be clear of what you expect from them. For a smart buy, go shopping in the afternoon as your feet are most relaxed then. SHOES THAT TAKE YOU PLACES You can blend into the character any city by sporting the right shoes. Paris To me the city is whimsical and always full of eclectic discoveries. For a fancy macaroon and coffee rendezvous, I would wear these beautiful Glitter Bermuda Jelly Flats by Salvatore Ferragamo. Tokyo The flag-bearer of a fast-paced Asian city and a reflection of futuristic fashion aptly describes Tokyo. The smart way to travel here is to wear shoes with flat soles. These Lace-Up Striped-Platform Oxfords by Stella McCartney are perfect for a long day outdoors. New York…

When Frano Banicevic pours Plavac Toreta 2015, a fairly refined wine, it seems like drops of garnet dance and twirl in my glass. “Life,” he says, smiling intently, “is useless without wine.” This is the sixth wine that we’re tasting as part of Korcula’s wine tour (pronounced Kor-chu-la), a four-hour, must-do expedition organised by Korkyra Info Agency (korkyra.info) that takes you around the island, one of the prettiest in Croatia. It is a fascinating journey to understand Croatian wines, the commodity that is gradually getting noted in markets including the US, Australia,China, Japan, and parts of Europe. “Every wine,” Banicevic tells us, serving us a platter of home-made cheese, “is different vintage. There is no cut-and-paste job in wines. Each wine,” he says, pouring his next creation, Posip Special 2016,…

“SUDAH MAKAN!” I HEAR THE CASUAL EXCHANGE ON THE STREETS OF GEYLANG. Singaporean local Bhajan Singh of A+B Edu Tours, who leads me on the Makan Makan food tour, explains its significance: “In Malay, makan means ‘eat.’ Sudah makan, or ‘have you eaten?’ is used almost as a greeting.” The immense importance placed on food is demonstrated by the almost magical appearance of hawker centres or kopitiams (traditional coffee shops) every few hundred metres. At these truly Singaporean institutions, food may be the goal, but to an outsider, they offer fascinating insights into the wonderfully mixed-up culture of the island nation. In the late 1970s, itinerant hawkers travelled the streets, dispensing traditional food from their home countries. To combat sanitation and convenience issues, the government set up hawker centres throughout the…

MALALA NAMED ‘GODMOTHER’ OF LUXURY CRUISE SHIP Premium cruise line, Celebrity Cruises, is making waves for partnering with Nobel Peace Prize winner Malala Yousafzai. The young Nobel Laureate is the ‘Godmother’ of its new ship, Celebrity Edge, that debuts in 2018. travelandleisureindia.in/travelandleisureindia.in/malalanamed-godmother-of-luxury-cruise-shipmalalanamed-godmother-of-luxury-cruise-ship TWO NEW TRAINS OFFER STYLISH SLOW TRAVEL IN JAPAN Japan is redefining luxury travel with the launch of two new slow trains: the Train Suite Shiki-shima by East Japan Railway and the Twilight Express Mizukaze by West Japan Railway this month. These are 10-car trains accommodating 24 passengers every journey. travelandleisureindia.in/luxury-trains-japan WHY PEOPLE ARE HEADING TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA RIGHT NOW As you hop from Adelaide to Adelaide Hills and Kangaroo Island to the Barossa, you will come to realise that South Australia is warm, vibrant and friendly like…

BRAZIL DOM Chef Alex Atala’s two Michelin-starred restaurant in Rio is known for its Brazilian cuisine that uses native ingredients such as priprioca, tapioca, tucupi, and baru. Sample his take on local dishes and know more about the surprising ingredients he employs to support local farmers and producers. domrestaurante.com.br FRANCE ALAIN DUCASSE The three stars winner at Plaza Athénée underwent a facelift recently, but Chef Ducasse’s eponymous restaurant still packs a punch. With a renewed focus on naturality, the menu revolves around the trilogy of fish, vegetables, and cereals, offering a healthier table. The selection of wines is top-notch too. alain-ducasse.com KEI Japanese Chef Kei Kobayashi trained under Chef Alain Ducasse before he opened his own restaurant. The two Michelin-starred diner in Paris serves four- or five- course lunches and…

From swimming with whale sharks in Australia to visiting an active war zone in Cambodia, Arndt has had an exciting decade. His journey started in 2007 when he sold his house to travel the world, and on his way, gathered 197K followers on Instagram (@everythingeverywhere). He has visited more than 175 countries, but his favourite place, he confesses, is South Georgia Island, in the South Atlantic, where travellers are welcomed by a colony of penguins on the beach. Follow him this summer as he travels through Sweden, Norway, and Eastern Canada.…

Most travellers to Australia—first-time ones, at least—follow a fairly prescribed itinerary, what locals refer to as the Rock (Uluru), the Reef (Great Barrier), and the Harbour (Sydney). About a decade ago some started adding Kangaroo Island, off the coast of South Australia, a place of great natural wonders that got noticed thanks to a terrific luxury resort, Southern Ocean Lodge. Still, few stop to savour much else in this beautiful corner of the continent. They should, especially if they have any interest in wine. If what you think of when you think of Australian wine is the big, high-alcohol Shirazes that dominate the export market, then South Australia is the perfect place for you to discover the full variety of Australian wine making. Within just a couple hours’ drive of…

THE OTTOMAN HOUSE is an ode to owner Kerime’s Turkish roots. Their Praline and Turkish coffees are must-haves along with boreks and Turkish delights. Don’t miss the gold almonds from Istanbul. 8 Camp Road, Muizenberg, Cape Town; +27-21/788-1293 COCO SAFAR’S flagship store in Cavendish has the world’s first Spirit espresso machine with lever technology that brews the finest flat whites, macchiatos, and hot chocolate. The cafe also houses a coffee capsule emporium›a collection of coffees from around the world in Nespresso-compatible capsules that you can take home. cocosafar.com Crowned the world’s best café in 2015 by UK Telegraph, TRUTH COFFEE has a team of artisan roasters who aim to pour the perfect cuppa. Try their luxurious ‘resurrection blend’ and ‘deep, dark, and twisted’ espresso. truth.coffee The ARTS CAFÉ at the…

It was New Year’s Day 2012, and Allison Fleece was feeling unmoored. On a whim, she e-mailed a group of her most intrepid friends. “This time next year,” she wrote, “I want to be standing on the roof of Africa.” The following winter, she was on the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro, exhausted and giddy, with nine women beside her. She turned to Danielle Thornton, a climbing buddy who would soon become her best friend, and said, “This is what all travel should be like.” The next year, Fleece and Thornton headed back to Kilimanjaro—this time leading a group of 29 women from 11 countries on the first trip of WHOA Travel, their fledgling adventure-tour company for women. In their previous lives, Fleece, now 31, had been an education advisor and…

Finely-sliced red chilli for colour Fried tofu as a spicy add-on Hokkien yellow noodles Slices of fried fish cake A magical Laksa paste is a blend of lemongrass, galangal, red chillies, shallots, fresh turmeric, and other aromatics and spices Fish ball, a spongy regular in Laksa Sliced boiled eggs: Mush them a little into the coconut milk gravy for an absolutely divine spoonful…

 I started where everyone does, in the mythic Athens, the tourist Athens. But when I reached the Acropolis, I kept walking: past the stands selling archaeological schlock, past the spectators on Segways, into the park that surrounds Philopappou Hill. I took a seat on a rock ledge overlooking olive trees, where a few smart Athenians had strung hammocks to watch the sunset. Someone was playing a bouzouki. Someone else was practising the trumpet. Everywhere there were ruins. The yawning sun cast the whole park in a strange sepia glow. I followed ancient stone pathways to the western edge, clambered down a dirt trail, and emerged in Petralona, a neighbourhood that felt like it was in an entirely different city. It had bougainvillea, jasmine, cats, funky 1960s apartment buildings. Everyone was…

SUGARCANE RAW BAR GRILL THE VENETIAN LAS VEGAS Opened in November last year, the restaurant serves globally-inspired tapas from three kitchens: an open grill, a raw bar, and a traditional kitchenette. Owner and Executive Chef Timon Balloo travelled to South America where sugarcane is produced in large quantities and that’s how he came up with the name of the restaurant—he opened the first one in Miami. This space in The Venetian is designed by Parts & Labor with cane-back chairs and in-laid wood flooring in a tribute to Cuba. Order from the left side of the menu to the right, and fill your table with small plates—the concept is to share many dishes. Try their whole chicken with truffle marble potatoes and wild mushrooms, cauliflower soup, goat cheese croquette, duck…

Imagine yourself relaxing at a beautiful resort, spending your days under the ministrations of a skilled masseuse; unwinding by the poolside with a cool cocktail in hand; savouring delicious nutritional meals that complement your health regime. So, take your pick and unwind in style at Preferred Hotels & Resorts that top the charts when it comes to wellness. The brand offers full-service spas, private showers, steam rooms, and whirlpools, fitness centres, and wellness activities at its properties around the world. Additionally, their spas draw inspiration from the environment and incorporate local products and techniques into signature treatments. On your next business trip or family vacation to these hotels, book some ‘me time’ at the spa and feel a world away from your daily routine. THE LEELA PALACE UDAIPUR On the…

BANYAN TREE TAMOUDA BAY MOROCCO Nestled between Morocco's Rif mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, Banyan Tree’s first resort in Africa—opened in September last year—is a stylish getaway. The Mediterranean-inspired resort features 92 villas, each with a private pool and garden, four restaurants, a library, and a kids’ club. The highlight is its spa that evokes a sense of place with its Moroccan interiors and follows a 'high-touch, low-tech' approach. Come here for the signature Rainforest Experience—a hydrothermal circuit that includes a vitality pool and hammam. banyantree.com DREAMS PLAYA MUJERES GOLF & SPA RESORT MEXICO Holiday in a villa that brings the ocean to your bedroom; laze around in infinity pools, whirlpools, or the lazy river; savour a new cuisine every day at its restaurants. The 502-room Dreams Playa Mujeres Golf…

On a balmy summer afternoon last month, Travel + Leisure India & South Asia in association with Le Meridien New Delhi welcomed guests for an exclusive culinary session in contemporary Indian cuisine at their signature fine dining restaurant, eau de Monsoon. The session was helmed by Executive Chef Davinder Kumar who showcased delicious recipes that included watermelon kebabs with grape chutney, cumin crusted sea bass with Madras curry, and as an indulgent finale, Darjeeling tea infused éclairs. As the afternoon drew to a close, guests left with memories and a goodie bag of éclairs and signed copies of recipe books. WIN A SPOT ON OUR NEXT MASTERCLASS Just email us saying ‘Yes, Chef!’ at travelandleisure@emmindia.com…

Alberta FROM BISON TO CABBAGE, ALBERTA HAS IT ALL COVERED. Bison burger A favourite red meat in Alberta, bison has fewer calories and less cholesterol than beef. From appetisers to mains, it can be used in a variety of dishes. In Calgary, Blue Star Diner (bluestardiner.ca) serves their bison burger with roasted pepper mayo, pancetta, and smoked mozzarella. Ginger beef Many Chinese restaurants in Calgary claim ginger beef to be their invention. Try it at The Silver Inn (silverinnrestaurant.com) in Calgary that has been selling these deep-fried beef strips covered in sweet, spicy sauce since the mid-1970s. Green Onion Cakes Introduced in 1980s by a Chinese restaurateur, the crispy green onion pancakes are the taste of summer in Edmonton. Sample this appetiser at The Blue Plate Diner (blueplatediner.ca) that serves…

The soothing scent of warm milk and honey fills the air, in the cosy room no bigger than an average Mumbai office-cubicle. In a corner, a mixture of eggyolk, castor sugar, and milk begins to simmer. Alyssa Chesson moves the wooden ladle through it and the mixture slowly drips off the back of the spoon. She then pours it over the grated blue cheese. Next come dollops of sinful cream and a spoonful of dark and delicious honey—all of these together create the Blue Cheese Honey ice cream. Apart from the exotic flavours, what’s intriguing is that there’s no assembly line at Bono Boutique Ice Cream, just a pair of expert hands—the Chesson sisters. And that’s artisanal foods for you. While ‘artisanal’ in the realm of food is a word…

1 / Adventures in Good Company Specialises in expeditions in the US, like dog-sledding and snowshoeing on the shores of Lake Superior (from US$1,765 for five days). adventures ingood company.com 2 / Adventure Women Books luxe trips, most lasting at least a week, to 26 destinations›like hiking, biking, and whitewater rafting in Colombia (from US$4,590 for 10 days). adventure women.com 3 / Balanced Rock The non-profit’s yearly Women of Color Wilderness Retreats in Yosemite combine survival-skill building, yoga, and mindful-ness exercises (from US$595 for four days). balanced rock.org 4 / Damesly Hosts self-discovery workshops in Arizona (from US$1,850 for three days), Hawaii, and Iceland. damesly.com 5 / Explorer Chick The company arranges backpacking trips in the American West and Appalachia, including a trek in the Great Smoky Mountains (from US$699 for…

In 2010, Monisha Banerji, a Bengalurubased product designer, was feeling a little burnt out. She was 34 years old and felt she needed a reboot. A friend suggested she travel for a few weeks. But Banerji knew she wanted something more structured and less ‘drifty.’ She didn’t want to wander to find herself, instead she wanted to be guided into ‘rebuilding’ and ‘re-inspiring’ herself. She had travelled the world enough, and while she loved doing that, she felt this time, she wanted to take a deeper journey, one that would leave her with more than just souvenirs and photographs. Eventually, the search for a more meaningful travel experience led Banerji to a week-long retreat at the Isha Yoga Centre in the foothills of the Vellangiri mountains outside Coimbatore. The benefits…

As I puffed my way up a steep, forested path in a spirit-filled corner of Japan, my guide, Kimi Kuribayashi, told me a story. Years earlier, she’d been walking in the mountains near Shingu, a town not far from us, with a friend and her teenage daughter. Suddenly, Kuribayashi recalled, the girl stopped. “She said, ‘I see figures flying toward us. Five mountain demons in white kimonos. And another one, tall, taller than the basketball coach at school. He’s dressed in purple.’ ” Her friend’s daughter hadn’t been frightened, Kuribayashi explained, because she’d had such visions before. She took them as a reminder that humans are trespassers in these mountains in central Japan, which, according to lore, have been crowded with deities ever since the gods Izanagi and Izanami created the…

It didn’t seem like an unreasonable request. I was on the southern coast of the Italian island of Sardinia in early July, and I thought I might find some seafood on the menu. But when I asked if the restaurant served any, my waiter answered firmly, almost with a touch of disdain: “No.” I was sitting at one of the small outdoor tables at Pani e Casu, a restaurant near the ancient battlements of Cagliari, Sardinia’s capital, high above the city’s busy port. The blue waters of the Mediterranean twinkled in the distance. I could smell salt in the air. Surely, I thought, those waters must hold some fish. Before I visited, I had never thought of Sardinia as an island of shepherds. I had thought of it as an…

There are heaven-sent times to ride a bicycle in Portugal’s Alentejo region, a Belgium-size swath of land southeast of Lisbon where cork orchards, whitewashed towns, rustic food, and ancient stones are plentiful. Spring, for instance, when carpets of wildflowers erupt and white storks return from Africa. Or autumn, when the first evening fires are lit and black Iberian pigs are loosed upon the acorns. But in early September, during one of the hottest spells anyone could remember, I was pedaling through a living furnace. The day had started promisingly enough, beneath stately castle walls in the medieval town of Montemor-o-Novo. But after 45 miles, the temperature had climbed above 100 degrees. Separated from my group—too fast for some, too slow for others—I rolled along the blistering tarmac, straining up each…

From the shore, the water that runs through Iceland’s Silfra fissure , a jagged rift between the Eurasian and North American continental plates, looks remarkably like a regular river. But once you’ve donned your mask and fins and pushed off the metal ladder from solid ground , you’ll find a ghostly submarine kingdom within this crack in the earth. The water—a deeper blue than any I’d ever seen—percolates through volcanic rock for decades, making it some of the purest in the world. It hovers near a core-shocking one degree Celsius year-round. The only way to combat the cold is with a buoyant, and hilariously unflattering, dry suit. For many, snorkelling between the two hulking landmasses, which are drifting apart almost an inch per year, is exhilarating. In my case, it…