Innholdsfortegnelse for February 2017 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

Mountains are not romantic when you have to climb them. That is a fact that each one of us hot-samosa-munching-moderately-active-person-above-40 must know. And no matter how inviting the bed linen is, it is also not possible to be romantic in a place where the temperature is -7 degree Celsius outside and feels -4 degree Celsius indoors. Some of that is fact; some you could call ‘alternate fact’, or rather a monkey-cap favouring Bengali’s ‘stretchable fact’. We were up in the Himalayan ranges recently for our cover shoot to get powdery snow cover for the February romance special and we got what we desired, and then some. It was one of the most arduous and yet fun shoots I’ve been on. The crew was brilliantly positive and willing to go any…

Neeraj Arya’s Kabir Cafe focuses solely on the mystic poet Kabir’s couplets, however, their music is not restricted to one genre; they work with pop, rock, reggae, and Carnatic sounds. MUSICIANS>> NEERAJ ARYA’S KABIR CAFE MUSIC BAND COMING TOGETHER Key vocalist Neeraj Arya started off as a street artist in Mumbai, until he formed the band with Mukund Ramaswamy on the violin, Raman Iyer on the Mandolin, Poubuanpou Britto KC on bass guitar, and Viren Solanki on drums and percussion. UNFORGETTABLE COLLABORATIONS Vishal Dadlani for Dewarists IV and Swanand Kirkire for a music festival. INFLUENCES From Illayaraja to Bob Marley, they love and respect a variety of genres. They also trained with Prahlad Singh Tipania and and Bhavri Devi. PERSONAL STYLE See them flaunting a desi folk swag in kurtas,…

india RANN UTSAV GUJARAT | TILL FEB 20 | DAY TRIP Drive 90 kilometres from the festival venue in Dhordo to the small town of Bhujodi for lessons in textile production. A textile hub with weavers, artisans, and block printers, here you get a chance to interact with artists and watch them at work. At the nearby Ashapura Crafts Park, you can visit cottages of craftsmen living on site and buy handicrafts such as block-print fabrics, clay art, and bandhanis. MAHINDRA BLUES FEST MUMBAI | FEB 11-12 | MORE JAZZ This year’s line-up has Quinn Sullivan, Supersonic Blues Machine, and Graine Duffy Band, among others. If you have appetite for more, stop by The Bandra Base that hosts Bombay Jazz Club all through the year. Housed in a mill, Café…

STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL APRIL 13 TO 16, 2017 Held during the Easter weekend in March/April at the MAPRO Garden in Panchgani, the four-day festival celebrates strawberries through food, music, and dance. Lush strawberries are on offer, free of cost, for visitors, and one can also taste a line-up of strawberry-infused dishes prepared by locals. Traditional beats of the Shivkalin Dhol and Lezim dancers add to the liveliness at the festival. STRAWBERRY PHIRNI Arindam Bhattacharya, Executive Chef at Le Meridien Mahabaleshwar Resort & Spa, shared with us his version of a strawberry dessert— Strawberry Phirni, a seasonal take on the dessert made with rice, milk, and fresh strawberries. There couldn’t be a better time to visit Mahabaleshwarthe strawberry fields are in full produce, it’s literally the perfect recipe to ace a Valentine’s…

NO TWO CIVILISATIONS have perhaps influenced mankind more throughout the centuries than India and Greece. Their intense multicultural influences and syncretism has no equivalent in history and their consequences are still felt today, particularly through the diffusion and influence of Greco-Buddhist spiritual heritage and art. It is, therefore, absolutely decorous that many eminent families from India choose Greece, and specifically the majestic island of Mykonos, to get married, organise their wedding party and spend a truly unforgettable honeymoon vacation. Mykonos’ extraordinary scenery provides the ideal setting and the island’s unmatched freedom encourages couples to design a truly creative matrimonial ceremony to be remembered and cherished forever. The Greek people are renowned for their hospitality and their respect for other cultures and traditions. They are in a unique position to appreciate…

Swirling in history yet future-forward, Germany puts on its best act for city-slickers. Tripoto writer Trisha Singh decodes three of its largest cities with suggestions that guidebooks probably won’t give you. BERLIN Berlin doesn’t glitter with glamour like Paris or bustle with energy like London—it is unpolished and understated and an absolute delight. Neighbourhood In Kreuzberg, the art is effortless, organic and everywhere; integrated within the very fabric of the neighbourhood. Historically, one of the poorest parts of Berlin, Kreuzberg (or X-berg) is today Berlin’s trendiest neighbourhood and is considered the nightlife capital of the world by many. Nightlife Berlin’s nightlife is legendary. The door policy can be bewildering, esoteric even, but the clubs are worth the hype. It’s easy to feel overdressed, so don’t try too hard. Find out…

The romance of a European holiday is strewn in achingly pretty hilltop towns, colourful fishing villages, historic, medieval communes, and rustic, secluded hamlets that are still blissfully unspoiled and hidden from the touristy eye. Summer may be the best time to visit the continent, weather-wise, but the delights of a spring sojourn are unsurpassed. You are likely to have large areas of the valley to yourself during walks, save a few local picnickers who don’t mind pinpricks of the late winter air. Meander along the cobblestone streets, explore historic ruins, discover a hidden café or gelateria, and just soak in the feeling of having travelled back in time. You will find a rare peace and quiet, and the time to stand and stare. APPENZELL SWITZERLAND Gentle, rolling hills in fifty…

1 ALICE IN AMSTERDAM In the garden, a wonderland of sorts set in a Dutch courtyard is a larger-than-life black and white wall mural of Alice crouching, as if she’s playing hide and seek. Which, in classic Marcel Wander’s sense of humour, is ironic, because she’s massive on a giant wall. She can’t possible go unseen. Still, the story of Andaz’ Alice is not so far from the original. She seems to be in a room in the old public library, shrinking after drinking from a mysterious small bottle, and growing large again after grabbing a blue spoon from the table. Her existence in the garden represents the eternal magic in the silent garden, where she looks out into the twisted paths as if waiting to catch The White Rabbit…

Few characters in literature are as intrinsically linked to a city as Sherlock Holmes is to London. Victorian London’s fog-bound back alleys and shadowy quarters illuminated by gaslight are characters as distinctive as Holmes himself. From Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s first short story— A Study in Scarlet, where the murder victim is found on Brixton Road—to the BBC series starring Benedict Cumberbatch and Martin Freeman, that’s filmed across many busy Central London locations, including Trafalgar Square and Russell Square Garden, London has been consistent in the adventures of Holmes and Watson. ABOUT THE AUTHOR The utter failure of his medical practice gave Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, plenty of time to write about a consulting detective who solves crimes by applying deduction and…

Fairmont Monte Carlo has an extensive experience in organising exceptional weddings and gala dinners counting both on the talent of the Executive Chef Philippe Joannès, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, and the service culture and attention to details of a luxury international Hotel Chain. In the heart of one of the most exclusive destinations in the world, a few steps away from the renowned Casino Square and luxury shopping, Fairmont Monte Carlo offers breath-taking views over the Mediterranean from its restaurants, bars, rooftop pool and panoramic terrace, ideal places to organise amazing cocktail receptions and gala dinners. Chosen as a partner by would famous brands as NOBU and Nikki Beach, the Fairmont Monte Carlo today is the trend setter in Monaco. Their outside catering division, Private Dining by Fairmont Monte Carlo,…

DEEP BLUE WATERS With the Indian Ocean in the east and the Atlantic Ocean in the west, South Africa offers plentiful opportunity to divers. The sardine run beyond the coast of KwaZulu Natal creates a glistening whirl of silver in the ocean as millions of sardines migrate to the east coast after a 30-day journey and divers snorkel to get a closer look. Best time to go June-July INTO THE WILD A bush dinner is a classic South African experience—earthy, rustic, and incredibly romantic. It’s just you and your partner on a secluded clearing in the wild, listening to the jungle breathe at night, watching stars light up the sky, and feasting on fresh game meat. Request your private game reserve to set it up for you. Stay in a…

MY LOVE FOR MEXICO EVERYTHING ABOUT MEXICO INSPIRES ME—HISTORY, CULTURE, MUSIC, PEOPLE, EVEN THE MINES. My creation titled ‘Agampuram’ is part of the project ‘A Tale of Two Cities: India and Sri Lanka’ curated by Renu Modi. It represents the confluence of two ancient cities that were crucial centres for Buddhism—Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka and Varanasi in India. In addition, some facets also draw inspiration from what I consider the history of life, the Sangha poetry. The aim was to juxtapose the virtuous history of Buddhist teachings with the present-day political scenario, where one can see polarisation of society driven by religion, and an increasing fear of the sense of surveillance amongst people. At the same time, one can witness the awakening of the downtrodden and the ascent of suppressed…

Considered one of the oldest cafes in town, and sitting pretty by the banks of the river, on the Quai de la Douane, the Grand Bar Castan first opened its doors to customers back in 1890. Renovated back to its original Victorian glory in 2005, this French region is also renowned for its fine wines. Plenty of vineyards and chateaux tours here decode the art of wine making. bordeaux-tourisme.com…

PERSONAL PARADISE Till 40 years ago, Koh Lanta was a privately owned island in the Andaman Sea. It was remodelled recently, and the property (now Pimalai Estate) offers luxury stay for the more discerning traveller in Thailand. PIMALAI WAY Practised by the staff at the resort, Pimalai Way is an experience that involves extraordinary level of service and attention, incorporating Thai traditions of hospitality and a respect for preserving the island’s natural resources. INDULGE Guests can enjoy a variety of cuisines at the bars and restaurants, where vegetables used, are harvested from Pimalai’s own Rim Ping organic farm. PAMPER Book the signature therapy at the Thai Salas that is constructed with straw, bamboo, and stones, and has a spectacular sea-view. PLAY Water sports like canoeing, windsurfing, paddling, sailing and more…

A chance flip through an old coffee table book we came across recently at a bed and breakfast introduced us to some of the incredible tribes in Uttarakhand. Pictures of Bhotias, Jadhs, Tharus, Buxas, and Jaunsaris, among others, described not only the heritage and craft hidden among the hills but also the sweet customs and culture in this region. BHOTIAS Semi-nomadic and pastoral, the Bhotias are known to be excellent mountaineers. They come from Kumaon and Garhwal’s higher valleys, and also along the Tibetan and Nepal border. They worship Nanda Devi, and other deities who are known to protect livestock, control weather and even help find lost animals. BUXAS Like Tharus, Buxas are also said to be decendents of Mongols and Rajputs. They are followers of Ram and Krishna, and…

It was unreal to see these massive doors moving in and out to allow passage to the largest ship ever to get through the canal. You are given 15 minutes to stand at the rim of the volcano and see the boiling lava before the rangers shuffle you out. Ian Allen always has his bags packed. This past year, he spent 11 months on the road, shooting in places as far afield as Bhutan, Brazil, and Australia—so it’s rare for him to experience something entirely new. But recently, during one of Travel + Leisure’s bookable, editor-curated trips with luxury tour operator Black Tomato, Allen experienced two firsts: dynamic Panama City and the rural, unspoiled Emerald Coast of Nicaragua. “Panama City is definitely the most modern place in Central…

L’Attitude, Kamshet Imagine waking up to a gorgeous sunrise every morning and watching the sun slowly inch above a cool glass lake as it turns the sky to fire. Imagine little rays of sunshine stealing into your room, giving it a warm golden glow. Fantastic mornings like these are just some of the magical moments that unfold at L’attitude. Located on a wooded lake in Kamshet, L’Attitude is a three-bedroom villa that boasts a 360 degree view of nature and is perfect for nature lovers looking for some quiet time together. Nestled in the backwaters of Andre Dam, this eco-friendly villa has been built with wood, mud, and exposed brick, adding a raw charm to the interiors. The deck seems tailor-made for spending hours in quiet reflection or lingering over…

Heritage House, Kurseong This is a recreated and restored British colonial home done up with a lot of artefacts of historical relevance. In the house, you will find anecdotes from British times, replicas of trains, as well as several pictures of birds found in the area. The house features three suites that comprise a large seating area, a beautiful queen-size bed, and an attic upstairs that houses another cosy bedroom with a seating area of its own. There is a private balcony as well. The in-house restaurant dishes up local and international cuisine on request and a large open terrace right outside it provides stunning views of the mountains and the valley below. Guests can go for one of their curated heritage walks that includes a visit to a British…

MOUNT PICO DE LORO In the northern island of the Philippines, between the provinces of Cavite and Batangas, and just a short hop away from Manila, is Mount Pico de Loro. Not only are the views from the top picturesque, but the mountain itself looks straight out of one of the realms from the film, Avatar. It’s also said to have a strong magnetic energy. The hike is fairly tough, but the scenic beauty is incredible and offers a great romantic setting. The top of the mountain, in fact, is a popular spot for proposals. PAOAY SAND DUNES You could never imagine a desert in the middle of a tropical Asian island, but the sand dunes of Paoay Ilocos Norte make it seem like you’re in somewhere in the Middle…

Accomodations Choose from an array of stays: Lagoon Villas or their deluxe versions, Premium Villas, Ocean Suites, and sequestered one- and two- bedroom Beach Suites and Villas with their own mini-beach. Lie down on a beach lounger under an umbrella or read a book swinging on a hammock. Climb down the step-ladder that descends into the water below, or sip a cocktail on your private sun-deck. Almost all rooms come with private freshwater plunge pools and manicured gardens. Culinary Art Organic ingredients and beautiful garden flowers create the most magnificent presentations. • 24 Degrees: This all-day dining restaurant with tables set on white sands, and in the shadow of Dhigga trees, serves European and Pan-Asian cuisine. Savour Teppanyaki flavours in the day, and order from their nightly menu of Italian, Thai,…

CHHOLIA It’s a war dance that researchers say can be traced back 2000 years. It started with the victor marrying the daughter of the loser. Dueling for the girl has lost its importance over the years, thankfully and now is just an art form. Interestingly no woman participates in this dance form. It begins with the blowing of the Turturi, a trumpet like instrument’ signifying the start of a war. JHORA A group dance where hundreds of men and women participate especially during the grand Nanda Devi Fair. They dance to the beat of the local drum called ‘Hurka’. CHANCHARI A playful competition amongst men and women, it has been derived from the Jhora. Love forms the main theme and is quite popular both in Kumaon and Garhwal. THADYA A…

A piping hot fondue in the warmth of an igloo can provide all the solace from the biting cold. Head to the Iglu Restaurant (Höhematte, Höheweg Interlaken 3800), for the best bites in town. The first time I tried Glühwein, a traditional, winter holiday after-ski drink was on a cold snowy evening after ice skating at Top Of Europe Ice Magic (icemagic.ch). A little after dinner, as I put on my jacket to leave the Iglu Restaurant, my friend Migel rushed towards me with a bottle of a colourless beverage and a tray with shot glasses. Kirsch Wasser, German for ‘cherry-water’, is a cherry-distilled digestif. One sip is all it took to warm up my insides. Other than this, it is popularly added to desert recipes such as whipped cream,…

We were immediately thrust down the rabbit hole into Wonderland with hundreds of white rabbits racing around muttering to themselves forming a repetitive hypnotic beat, “I’m late, I’m late.” Arriving at any of New York’s airports is traumatic as a non-American citizen (just ask Shah Rukh Khan). You would think that manoeuvring through all the relevant checks would be a doddle, but the problem is New York keeps changing its rules on what appears to be a whim. So, it’s always better to enter the US from another city, or better still if you are one of the summer darlings coming from London, you should fly from the city airport via Ireland and complete immigration there, so all you have to do is stroll into the country in your tinted…

I DON’T THINK I HAVE EVER MET ANYONE WHO DOESN’T LOVE AMSTERDAM.  A first visit there is like all the lights coming on at once, a step into a world where no one ever says no, in the city the musician Stew so beautifully called “a shopping mall of vice.” For many people, that visit to Amsterdam is the first hint that the world does not have to be like it is back home. I was seven when I first visited Amsterdam. I vaguely remember my mother very briefly rue that she couldn’t go out and see the city’s nightlife. I figured it was because I was too young to be taken out and she couldn’t leave me in the hotel room on my own. So I believe I…

Long walks through woods, delicious local food cooked over hot coals, and evenings under a shared blanket before a crackling fireplace define the charm of these places. Walk up to the top of the ridge at Jilling Terraces to see layers and layers of the snow-capped Himalayas against a stunning blue sky. JILLING TERRACES Originally named Chestnut House, this charming house was built in 1933 by a Sanskrit scholar for his Polish wife. Rooms named after berries and flowers, with fireplaces, high ceilings, original wooden floors, earth-coloured rugs, colonial-style verandas, Enid Blytons and dog-eared paperbacks on the bookshelves, the smell of wood-fired cooking, and picture windows with spectacular views all around, Jilling is a labour of love. Perched high up a mountainside, the owners, from the world of design…

Wooden Chalet on the Riverbank offers views of River Mandovi and the Salem Ali Bird Sanctuary. Coco Palms, Arpora A brightly-lit three-bedroom bungalow with an earthy vibe and a community pool, Coco Palms is nestled in a gated complex in Arpora, a short drive from Baga, Calangute, and all the happening party pads of North Goa. saffronstays.com Wooden Chalet on the Riverbank, Raibandar Also called Casinha Raibandar, this is a group of riverside wooden chalets on the banks of the Mandovi, and smack in the middle of the Heritage Zone of Raibandar. Built in 1730, it underwent major restoration work in 2012. Centuries ago, the first capital of Old Goa was Raibandar, but due to a plague in the area, it moved to Panjim. The property offers views of River…

Our plane nosed down through a layer of ice fog and shuddered hard, as if at the sudden view: a mist-shredded scrap of forest, all but buried in snow. “Welcome to the Arctic,” the pilot said, as we bumped along a runway of ice and packed powder. It was the end of January, and we had arrived in Kiruna, the northernmost town in Sweden, 100 miles above the Arctic Circle. Around us, snow-clad forest spread away for 1,50,000 square miles. Squalls shook the cabin as we taxied. The storm was out of the north-northeast, and I tried to picture where that wind had recently been: a strip of Finland, a ribbon of Norway, the Barents Sea, and, before that, probably the polar ice cap. Brrr. We had been travelling from…