Innholdsfortegnelse for January 2017 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

I don’t know about you, but I’m quite a geek about some things. Food, particularly sourdough bread… Last year, on a trip to San Francisco, I spent 128 hours planning my ‘San Francisco Sourdough’ expedition, talking to people on Facebook sourdough groups, calling up top chefs at hotels including The Palace Hotel and The St Regis San Francisco, for recommendations. When I got there, I allocated a whole day to making pilgrimage-like trips to Chad Robertson’s Tartine, the famous Boudin outlet on Fisherman’s Wharf, and a bunch of other Ivy League bread bakeries. I even carried my 1.4kg hardcover copy of The Tartine Bread Book, so I could get it signed by Robertson. I landed up at Acme Bread Company with an empty Kissan jam jar, begging for 100gms of…

MONTREAL in JANUARY This month, the Canadian city kicks off a year of events in honour of its 375th birthday (375mtl.com). Even subzero temps can’t stop the celebrations: until March 11, the city holds Les Hivernales, a carnivalesque series of wintry games and events. Later this year, look for art pop-ups, symphony performances, and the unveiling of the Promenade Fleuve-Montagne, an urban boardwalk that will connect Mont-Royal to the St Lawrence. RWANDA in JUNE Travellers hoping to see East Africa’s waning population of mountain gorillas will be able to do it in style starting this summer, when Wilderness Safaris’ first Rwandan property, the upscale, six-villa Bisate Lodge (villas from US$1,400 per person; wilderness-safaris.com wilderness-safaris.com), opens near Volcanoes National Park. QUEENSTOWN in JULY…

LANCÔME Absolue Yeux Global Multi-Restorative Eye Concentrate 9,406 for 0.5oz It helps eyes look rested and fresh after long journeys and all-nighters. ORGANIC HARVEST Blush Shine & Glow Serum 1,395 for 30gm Softens age-spots and enhances skin elasticity. CLARINS Instant Light Lip Comfort Oil 2,000 approx for 7ml Nourishing lip oil in 3 yummy flavours—Honey, Raspberry, and Red Berry, all tinted. EPIQUE Multi-Action Sculpting and Firming Cream 3,900 for 50ml Acts at an intra-cellular level to visibly lift and tighten facial zones. COLORBAR Hydra White Intense Whitening Hydrating Foam Cleanser 790 for 70ml Gentle foam face cleanser that leaves skin clean and toned. JUST B AU NATUREL Clay Mousse Cleanser Rhassoul & Hemp Seed 1,500 for 100gm Detoxifies congested skin and balances oil production. CLINIQUE Repairwear Lift Firming Night Cream…

Sameer and his partner Venkat raised US$18 million for Culture Machine in second round of funding in 2015. It was the largest investment in the multi-channel network space in Asia. ENTREPRENEUR SAMEER PITALWALLA CEO, CULTURE MACHINE Sameer quit a high-profile job at Disney India to start his digital media company with ex-Google Venkat Prasad. A momentous decision, for their multi-channel network Culture Machine has crossed 600 million monthly views on YouTube and the network’s channels like Being Indian, Put Chutney, Awesome Sauce, and Blush are being lauded for their thought-provoking content. CITY HANGOUTS Escobar (199, 4 th  Floor, VN Sphere Mall, Linking Road, Bandra West; +91-22/2640-7070) and Olive Bar & Kitchen (olivebarandkitchen.com). PARISIAN DIARY “I went backpacking in Paris in my early 20’s, walked the streets while listening…

1135 AD Fine dining in Rajathan, the royal way. Located within the Amber Fort. Luxurious and romantic, this grand restaurant serves in pure silver crockery, under sparkling chandeliers that hang from a recast roof with glass inlay and gold leaf motifs. Sit on regal furniture with silver-plated armrests. The Food isn’t too shabby either. WHERE: Level 2, Jaleb Chowk, Near Sheela Mata Temple, Amer Palace, Amer. Tel: 91 9829066688 PRICE: 2,500 for two. BAR PALLADIO A hot favourite during Lit Fest (because of its proximity to the main venue), it’s also highly likely that you will run into some glittering Literati here. They also have great outdoor seating: candle-lit and romantic in the evening, charming and sunny with canopies during the day. WHERE: Narayan Singh circle, Hotel Narain Niwas, Kanota…

One can often catch Anita Lal musing on designs she finds during her travel expeditions, the outcomes of which reflect beautifully on her product line: Farah Baksh from the legacy of Kashmir’s gardens and crafts, Ratnakara from the cultural influence of India on the islands of the Indian Ocean, and Samarqand from the legendary crossroads of the Silk Route. For Shambala, she set out to discover the art and craft of the following cities. CORE POTTERY Jingdezhen, also known as the Porcelain City, is the heart of China’s pottery region. It has a history of over 1,700 years in porcelain-making including the famous blue-and-white Ming pots. Today, pottery and hand painting thrive in small apartments in narrow alleys here. Potters then send their products to a community kiln for firing.…

Leaving behind a corporate job in New York, Sivan studied photography at the International Center of Photography in NYC and has been taking food, travel, and lifestyle shots ever since. So when she has time to spare from her assignments with tourism boards, travel magazines, and commercial clients, she loves to capture the local street art scene for her project, ‘Intimacy Under the Wires’. After 12 years in the Big Apple, she recently moved to Tel Aviv and now divides her time between the two cities. Follow her journey on instagram@sivanaskayo…

An American journalist once asked me for my berry pulav recipe. I told her, ‘First, you give me the recipe of your Coca-Cola.’ When she said it wasn’t possible, I too, said it isn’t possible,” quipped Britannia & Co’s Mr Boman Kohinoor, as he peered at me through his thick-rimmed glasses. Even at 94, there’s a sharpness in his gaze as he pours over—and proudly flaunts—news clippings about his iconic restaurant. His attentiveness towards every customer, amusing conversations, and blessings for the young guests reveal a joie de vivre that is innate in every Parsi. The Qessa-ye Sanjān recounts the Persian invasion of India between the 8th and 10th centuries. Then as late as the 1750s, the community began to migrate from small towns and villages in Gujarat to Mumbai…

ANYONE WHO’S USED THE PHRASE ISLAND TIME HAS NEVER GONE FORAGING FOR WHELKS WITH DIGBY STRIDIRON. The exuberant, 33-year-old chef helms the kitchen at Balter, the most ambitious new restaurant on St Croix. When I visited his Christiansted establishment this past April, a month after its opening, the bright dining room, with its wooden tables, iron railings, and brick-and-stainless-steel open kitchen, was still figuring out its aesthetic, and the eager servers were checking on their tables so often that I considered asking ours to join us for dinner. But what a dinner it was. A friend and I worked our way through popcorn dusted with leek ash; local wahoo accompanied by pork-belly mofongo and mango kuchela, a Trinidadian chutney; and a slab of pork belly cured in shaddock, a local,…

 Travel+Leisure India & South Asia hosted their first Masterclass in Bangalore recently with Sheraton Grand Bangalore Hotel at Brigade Gateway. Bangaloreans are known for their discerning tastes and huge knowledge of world cuisines which lead us to create an advanced-level masterclass in three cuisines, along with a spotlight on Modern European Desserts. Sheraton Grand’s top Chefs in Japanese, Italian, and Indian coastal cuisine set up live demonstration sections across Bene, their Italian restaurant. We invited readers who particularly love to cook, or are ardent gourmet travellers. The Travel+Leisure India & South Asia Masterclasses are designed to celebrate the connect between food and travel, so the three chefs demonstrated not just six stellar recipes but also shared insights on where to shop for the ingredients locally. Chef Guiseppe Loce, Chef Saravanan…

ART OF WRITING: A TÊTE-À-TÊTE WITH MAHESH DATTANI Playwright, director, actor, and teacher, Mahesh Dattani has donned many hats over the years. He speaks to T+L India about being socially responsible as a writer. travelandleisureindia.in/maheshdattani-at-serendipity-arts-fest WHAT MICHELIN-STAR CHEF VINEET BHATIA IS UP TO Chef Vineet Bhatia is often hailed as the father of the evolving modern Indian cuisine, who has put the country’s culinary heritage on the map. We meet the chef for a quick chat and get a whiff of his new menu at Ziya, The Oberoi Mumbai. travelandleisureindia.in/www.travelandleisureindia.in/exclusiveinterview-with-michelin-star-chefvineet-bhatiaexclusiveinterview-with-michelin-star-chefvineet-bhatia HOW TO NAVIGATE THE KOCHIMUZIRIS BIENNALE 2016 An event so big that we can handle it only once every couple of years: the Kochi-Muziris Biennale is ready for the 2016 edition. Simply put, it’s India’s biggest exhibition of international contemporary…

After being hit hard by the financial crisis, Bermuda is shaking itself out of stagnation and attracting a new generation of travellers. In 2014, the island won a bid to host the 35th America’s Cup, the high-profile international sailing race, which takes place this June. The promise of a flood of wealthy visitors—and a loosening of restrictions on foreign investment—has sparked a spate of development. Big news is the $100 million overhaul of the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club (doubles from US$279; thehamilton princess.com), the island’s 132-year-old grande dame, whose revamped rooms have a fresh, contemporary look. The hotel has also added a stellar art collection, a spa, and a restaurant serving locally sourced fare from James Beard Award–winning chef Marcus Samuelsson. Elsewhere on the island, a St Regis, a…

The newly-opened Bella Cucina at Le Meridien Gurgaon is dolled up with colourful leather seating and Travertine marble flooring, a handcrafted Pavesi oven, and a custom-built Molteni kitchen. The winter afternoon that I visited, the sun was shining brightly on the window-side table. Over a glass of Australian Chardonnay, I spun plans of having a staycation at the 285-room hotel and spending lazy days by the pool, with a cool mocktail in one hand and my Bill Bryson book in another. On my way out, I stopped at Latest Recipe (the all-day dining restaurant) and peeked at Le Meridien Gurgaon’s signature éclair—as is my habit whenever I’m at a Meridien. Here, the flavour is Coconut and Tonka Bean. lemeridiengurgaondelhincr.com SOUP Served in a small cup, the creamy cappuccino of mushroom…

THE GYAN MUSEUM The late Gyan Chand Dhaddha—a naturalist, collector, and gemologist grew up in a joint family setting, and was greatly influenced by the abundance and diversity that came with it. His affinity towards arts, crafts, poetry, philosophy, and literature, and his fascination for antiques led him to become an avid collector. The Gyan Museum is a tribute to him by his sons Suresh and Arun, housing a collection of over 3,000 items including exquisite antique jewellery, silver utensils, rare textiles, miniature paintings, and ancient manuscripts plus the largest collection of Hookah mouthpieces in the world. The museum, designed by award winning French architect Paul Mathieu, is located at the Gem Plaza—a factory that manufactures jewellery inspired from the collection at the museum. gyanmuseum.com…

The Artist’s Studio We love that this residence is actually converted from a sculptor’s studio. Designed by French photographer Saskia Durand-Raucher, it’s sure to get your creative juices flowing. After spending the day at the festival, it’ll be the perfect place to unwind. Camelia Just two minutes away from the central metro station, this three-bedroom property is perfect if you’re travelling in a group. The hosts live there too and you can schedule music and cooking lessons ahead of your arrival. Ikaki Niwas ‘Ikaki’ literally translates to ‘one-of-a-kind residence’ and that’s exactly what this luxury home-stay offers. The traditional Rajasthani décor of the rooms adds to the Rajputana experience. A huge terrace with a pink floor makes for a cool evening setting.…

Set amidst the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, majestic volcanic mountains, and lush paddy fields, Soori Bali immerses itself into its beautiful surroundings. It began as a vacation home for Soo K Chan and his wife Ling Fu, their friends and family, and later expanded into a resort. Soo has designed the property and has contributed to its interiors, furnishings, and landscaping. The 48 contemporary villas crafted using locally-sourced materials, traditional Balinese motifs at the resort, ceramic ornaments from local artisans, and fresh produce from farms and their own spice gardens orchestrate a dialogue between nature and the local community. Moreover, its sustainable initiatives that minimise carbon footprint and maximise locale engagement have won the EC3 Global EarthCheck certification for best building, planning, and design. An independent brand now,…

When Michael Beary opened Zocalito, his Oaxacan restaurant in Aspen, Colorado, more than 15 years ago, he quickly found that many of the ingredients he needed weren’t available in the United States. Even in Mexico, some heritage chillies—such as the achilito, which once featured prominently in many Oaxacan salsas—were nearly impossible to find. “They had become so rare, even local chefs were using generic substitutes,” Beary said. So, he started making trips to the remote Oaxacan valleys where the terroir lends these peppers their particular flavour. “My project is to get to the farmers, so I can pay them what the middleman would take,” said Beary, who hopes his purchasing power can convince growers to keep producing traditional peppers. He imports chillies and other Oaxacan items like chapulines (grasshoppers) for…

The saphire seas, pearl-like in islands are now welcoming tourists with new resorts that offer a wide variety of experiences ranging from spas to unprecedented sea excursions. One of the most biologically diverse regions in the world, in East Africa you will find thick forests and golden grasslands; snow-capped peaks and volcano valleys, plains teeming with wildlife and several lakes; not to forget the marine life across its coastline. Here, 'game' in safari parlance assumes a whole new meaning. Most of the terrain in East Africa varies largely in altitude: the higher altitudes have cooler weather conditions while the coastal areas are warm and humid. This has allowed different flora and fauna species to co-exist. Until recently, African Safaris were only associated with Kenya and Tanzania, but as we ventured…

AMONG THE PAINTINGS ARE DEPICTIONS OF RAS LEELA , THE COSMIC DANCE OF LORD KRISHNA; THE WEDDING OF RAM AND SITA; AMOROUS SCENES FROM DHOLA-MARU . The king resplendent in a saffron Mughal robe and a turban, sits on a horse, holding a flower in his right hand, and controlling the reins of his horse with the left. The scabbard and sword are all too realistic, transporting me to an ancient battlefield. Lord Krishna plays his flute, gamboling with gopikas. Gleaming panels of Tikri—the Indian word for mosaic work, where, using scalpels, hand-cut pieces of mirrors are inlayed into frescos on the ceiling and the walls. Even the floors narrate the story of crusading elephants in tempered red, black, and white, the art style…

Set on the edge of Victoria Falls in Zambia, the Devil’s Pool lives up to its frightening name. It is a rocky basin that has been hollowed out by thousands of years of erosion as the waters of the Zambezi River swept through it before falling 350 feet downward—twice the height of Niagara. For much of the year, the Devil’s Pool is inaccessible to visitors. But when the river level declines and the current slows between mid-August and mid-January (the region’s dry season), it turns into nature’s version of an infinity pool. These drier months reveal a rock wall at the edge, which acts as a barrier that makes it safe to jump in and take a dip. Experiencing this thrill requires a boat ride to a small island in…

FRIDAY Start your weekend off by checking in to the Mainport (doubles from US$165; mainporthotel.com  mainporthotel.com ), a wellness-oriented hotel where you can book a room with a Finnish sauna, or the CitizenM Hotel Rotterdam (doubles from US$92 ; citizenm.com), which feels like your design-savvy friend’s living room. Wander north for some shopping in Oude Noorden, a vibrant residential area with experimental fashion and home-design boutiques. Grab a pre-dinner drink at Brouwerij Noordt (brouwerijnoordt.nl), a brewery with 20 beers on tap situated in a former firehouse. Continue the tasting tour with a 15-minute bike ride to Roffa Streetfoodbar (entrées US$9–US$28 ; roffafood.nl), a smokehouse that serves bread, beer, and cheese from some of Rotterdam’s best producers. The brisket—slow-cooked over oak for 24 hours—is not to be missed. SATURDAY Stroll to the…

A town where Hazrat Shah Nizamuddin’s memory is still alive in his dargah; a town where Faruqi kings and Mughal emperors once ruled; a town that still whispers the love story of Shah Jahan—Burhanpur is a hidden gem that beckons with its historic grandeur. A LIGHT ON ITS HISTORY Burhanpur was founded in 1400 AD by the Faruqi king, Nasir Khan, on the banks of River Tapti. The kingdom reigned over this town for the next two centuries, but in the 1600s, the Mughals captured it. It became the capital of their empire and until Aurangzeb’s death in 1707, Burhanpur remained critically important to them. It is fascinating to know that a fort on its outskirts, Asigarh Fort, was crucial to their Deccan ambition. So much so that it was…

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PETITE PROMESSE BAUME & MERCIER This playful double-wrap wrist watch with blue calfskin straps is encased in diamonds and a statement accessory that takes any outfit from drab to glam. GLOBEMASTER CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER OMEGA With the brand’s most advanced mechanical movement and design inspired by early constellation models of horological expertise, this was the world’s first Master Chronometer unveiled in 2014. EL PRIMERO ZENITH As the world’s most luxurious Cohiba cigars celebrate their 50th anniversary, the Swiss watchmaker pays tribute by launching a special edition of brown-alligator leather-strap chronographs featuring Cuban motifs. CARROUSEL PHASES DE LUNE BLANCPAIN The carrousel counteracts and neutralises the effects of deceleration and acceleration of the balance wheel caused by gravity. BIG PILOT’S PERPETUAL CALENDAR IWC It displays not only the cycles of the moon,…

Dancing naiykas to sculptures of maithunya, the union of Shiva and Shakti, mind and matter, male and female; floating idols to carved wheels that reflect time; virtues attributed to animals and the struggle of man with material desires—the temples and monuments in Odisha narrate history in a language clearer than words. Jagannath Temple, Puri One of the four sites of char dham or the holiest pilgrimage of Hindus, is Jagannath Temple in Puri. The colossal structure demonstrates the elevated architectural style of the Kalinga Dynasty starting from the 11th - to the 15th -century. Legend has it that the image of the deity centred in the temple has the power to grant ‘moksha’ or eternal salvation to the visitor. Sun Temple Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984,…

In the early spring, when I visited Moulay Idriss, the climate was at its most Mediterranean. The four-hour drive from Casablanca took me through forests of cork oaks, their bark stripped to arm’s reach to make corks for wine bottles. The greens of the countryside were muted and slightly dusty, the air was soft, and there were olive trees everywhere. Approaching the town from the west, I saw a cluster of colourful boxes framed by bare mountain peaks. Reachable by just a pair of roads, Moulay Idriss spreads across two foothills of Mount Zerhoun, at the base of the Atlas Mountains. Edith Wharton came here in 1919, taking the same route I did. In her travel book, In Morocco, she described the “piled up terraces and towns of the Sacred…

Tel Aviv is deeply rooted in Mediterranean culture with strong links to Latin history. When Jewish communities from Europe, North Africa, and South America arrived in Israel in the early 20th century, they brought with them a diverse dance culture that brewed exponentially, resulting in the heady mix of dance forms like salsa, kizomba, flamenco, jazz, hip hop, reggaetón, swing, ballet in their clubs and studios. THE FIRST STEP A detailed manual designed to help newbies find their feet in the city’s eclectic dance scene. STUDIO TALK Tel Aviv is home to several studios that conduct private and group lessons. These courses often culminate into dance parties and are a great way to make friends. Located in the heart of the city is Dance Tel Aviv (dancetelaviv.co.il) that offers partner…

PARIS | Visit Paris Airshow 2017 Last time, it was the Martin Jetpack that debuted at the Paris Airshow. If you had been there and pre-ordered your personal jetpack, you’d be the most smug-cool cucumber with your own Bond-like jetpack by now (deliveries for the first lot of jetpacks are zooming out of Martin’s Christchurch facility this month). In addition, the Paris Airshow is by far the sexiest and edgiest aviation and tech event you could witness. Held every other year at the Le Bourget Airport in North Paris, France, the first few days of the event are closed to the general public, but the following Friday, Saturday, and Sunday welcomes in spectators of all ages. See in person a Dassault Rafale fighter jet flying display, creative design studios put…

It was business as usual at Celine’s, on Hellshire Beach, when model Tami Williams dropped in on a gloriously clear Wednesday afternoon this summer. The no-frills, brightly coloured seafood restaurant was well into lunch service, dishing up heaping plates of fresh lobster, fish, rice, and beans to the mostly local crowd that frequents the half-mile swath of sand near Kingston. The handful of sun-seekers who had made the trek sipped Red Stripes as the waves lapped the shore, the day grew long, and the dinner throngs began to roll in. This lesser-known, arguably more authentic side of Jamaica—a place far from the manicured resort towns of Montego Bay and Ocho Rios—is where Williams feels at ease. She was raised in Kingston and St Elizabeth Parish , and grew up…