Innholdsfortegnelse for June 2016 i Travel + Leisure India & South Asia

Oven-Toaster-Grill setting. You could fry an egg on NH8, and caramelise onions on your dashboard. It’s only natural that our thoughts turn to Europe where summers are a celebration. People are out on bicycles, or lazing away afternoons at sidewalk cafes and drinking glittering glasses of white wine by sun-dappled canals. You can watch parents buy endless rounds of gelato for their kids, long queues outside ticket booths and museum quarters full of a variety of people: from look-alikes of Johnny Depp from Pirates of the Caribbean, sing-alikes of Andrea Boccelli to paint-alikes of Van Gogh! In fact, we all know how crowded Europe can get during summer, so this month, we decided to take you deeper into the continent to destinations that haven’t become clichés on Instagram, and landscapes…

Call it the athleisure effect: As healthy lifestyles and holistic approaches to wellness have become mainstream, spas have followed suit. The choice is no longer between boot camp and colonics or pedicures by the pool—spas from California to Sri Lanka are combining fitness and nutrition, New Ageiness, and medi-spa procedures (both Western and Eastern) . “Guests already know how to eat, how to exercise, and about their state of wellness,” says Andrew Barnard, marketing director of the BodyHoliday (thebody holiday.com), in St Lucia. “It’s about enhancing their health in the long term.” And for the new generation of spa-goers, which Barnard says is increasingly made up of millennials, fusing travel with wellness—whether it’s a chakra massage or a biometric analysis—carries a definite cool factor. The Doctor Is In The incorporation…

As the 4 x 4 bounced along a rutted dirt track, I gazed through swirling dust at an untamed landscape: cork trees, parched chaparral bushes, outcrops of golden rock. Fernando Romão, our guide and driver, pointed out short-toed eagles wheeling overhead as the vehicle lurched up a dry trough, engine roaring. In the front passenger seat, Simon Collier, a former safari guide from South Africa, wore a broad grin. “This is what Land Rovers are made for!” We were in eastern Portugal’s Côa Valley, a four-hour drive from Lisbon. It had taken only an hour to get from the medieval fortress town of Castelo Rodrigo, where I’d spent the morning, to the heart of the 2,200-acre Faia Brava Nature Reserve. Having reached higher ground, we parked and strode across a…

CROATIA’S VIBRANT CAPITAL is constantly reinventing itself. Restaurant menus change seasonally, parking lots play host to trending bike sports, and cobblestone streets alternate between pedestrian thoroughfares and late-night party strips. Gallivanting gourmands flock to Park Bundek for the annual Oktoberfest, while eager shoppers sniff out its remarkable design stores. And there is nary a vacant lot or blank wall that a pop-up bar or street artist hasn’t already discovered. It’s all-change in the Croatian capital. While the urban fabric of the city might look the same as it was ten, 20 or maybe even 50 years ago, life on the streets is beginning to dance to a new set of tunes. To start with the most obvious sign of change; a new breed of cafés, bars and bistros are threading…

If you’re travelling to Europe’s cultural capitals, it’s a given that museums are on the docket. But strategising is key if you want to catch the classics, see a few under-the-radar exhibits, dodge the hordes, and do it all before reaching your museum saturation point. We quizzed the pros and combed the collections to assemble a plan for smarter gallery-going. Ahead, our (sort of) lowbrow guide to (mostly) highbrow culture. Read on, then plot your next European excursion accordingly. How to Make Sense of The Louvre Paris FOR THE FIRST-TIMER Hit the Denon wing, but don’t stay too long—the crowds are insane. Catch the iconic Winged Victory of Samothrace sculpture and Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People, then head to the ornately gilded Apollo Gallery: it encapsulates 17th -century excess and…

For Minimalists With its clean, peppy interface, Travel List (iOS; US$1.99) is a good choice for travellers who don’t need a high level of detail. Create a list, tap to add items, and note how many of each thing you want to bring. Then just check stuff off as you go. The app lets you add itineraries to your calendar and set alerts to pack or buy items—but that’s pretty much it. For Adventurers Mammut Packing List (iOS; free), created by the outdoor-gear company, is a robust, networked utility for specialised gear—you definitely won’t forget your skin glue or avalanche shovel. You can start from scratch or get a suggested packing list by choosing a specific kind of trip—say, an ice-climbing jaunt with an overnight stay in a hut. You…

SEE A CONCERT IN SZCZECIN The new philharmonic building in Szczecin is absolutely stunning and is the place to watch a musical performance. With a glass exterior, this modern building is a contrast to its more traditional surroundings. Inside, the Szczecin Philharmonic building is a wide, open, white, minimalist space complemented by skylights letting in beautiful natural light. STAND AT TWILIGHT AT THE MAIN SQUARE IN ZAMOSC Zamosc is a renaissance city in the south east part of the country. It is named after Jan Zamoyski, one of the wealthiest and the most enlightened magnate of 16th century Poland. He realised the importance of a defensible place near the Ukrainian border, and commissioned the Italian architect Bernardo Morando to work with him on a project. The result was the remarkable…

Pico Iyer WRITER The Great Wide Open A venerable name in the travel industry, Pico Iyer is a writer, traveller, author, and professor. Born in England to Indian parents, brought up in California, and educated at Eton and Oxford, Iyer has written a dozen books and contributed to reputable newspapers and magazines around the world. A frequent traveller who has lived in Japan with his wife for three decades now, his next trip is to Bhutan, which he hasn’t seen in 27 years. Inside, you will find discoveries from his first trip to Mongolia, a country he found to be moving ahead and rediscovering itself. Sakshi Salve CONTRIBUTOR The Polish Elixir Over the years, Sakshi Salve has donned many hats. She has worked for a fashion house, interned with investment…

MEADOWOOD NAPA VALLEY St Helena , California At the 14,000-square-foot spa, which opened in November, guests sit down to gorgeous dishes after treatments . A standout is the Ora king salmon—one piece is grilled, the other cooked sous vide—served with flaxseed tuiles and snap peas and garnished with pea tendrils and edible flowers from the garden . meadowood.com TRI Lake Koggala, Sri Lanka At this six-month-old high-design hotel, Ayurveda-inspired meals at the spa start with fresh-baked bread such as kurakkan roti and roasted-cashew butter. Even the cocktails—try the beet martini—seem healthy. trilanka.com HACIENDA ALTAGRACIA Pérez Zeledón, Costa Rica The Auberge Spa does a standout job of highlighting its surroundings. The body scrub is made of Costa Rican coconut oils, almond oils, and coffee. And its popular ceviche isn’t made with…

I WAS NEVER a fan of vodka and have always been repulsed by the taste of neat vodka. This was until of course, one autumn, a couple of years ago when I visited this paradise of old-world charm known as Krakow. Being there was like being in a parallel universe, that somewhat resembled ours but dressed differently. A city that took you back a few hundred years during the day when you walked through its historical districts, and transformed into a chic contemporary party haven at night—I’d never seen a contrast this intense. The cultural and political significance apart, Krakow is popular for having some of the best vodka in the world. During my visit, a friend introduced me to a Polish vodka that is now my favourite: hazelnut flavoured…

CHEF ANAHITA DHONDY CHEF AT SODABOTTLEOPENERWALA YOUNG AND PASSIONATE The daughter of two remarkably talented parents (her mother runs a hugely popular catering business in Gurgaon, her father is an advertising guru), the 25-year-old chef has imbibed the best of both. A Le Cordon Bleu alumnus, she came back to do the unthinkable: open a Parsi restaurant for Gurgaon’s bustling Jat and Punjabi crowd. So successful that she has just opened her third SBOW in NCR. HER FIVE FAV PICKS Nagpal Chole Bhature in Amar Colony, Delhi; fresh idlis at Veena Stores, Bengaluru; Jaan Restaurant, Singapore; scallop shell in the by lanes of Bath, UK; Beach Wadiya in Colombo. HIDEOUTS She calls London her second home. “It’s where I holiday most often. I know the streets like the back of…

A little off the Old Town, are nine small streets. In Dutch, they are called ‘De 9 Straatjes’). Go down Prisengracht by the canal, and turn into Runstraat. Just a stone’s throw away from the Andaz Amsterdam (designed by Marcel Wanders), this street and a few others that criss cross it have delightful design and ‘collector’s’ stores. From a small shop that specialises in bright and quirky socks (including intentionally mismatched ones) to one that only sells toothbrushes, you’ll find independent designers of fashion accessories, clothes, home decor, and furniture; you’ll also find concept stores that sell high-design knick knacks from across Europe that would give the MOMA store in New York a run for its fan-following. You’ll find more locals than tourists in these streets, and loads of lovely…

Arca Floating Hotel, Danube Delta, Romania | This three-story riverboat traverses the world’s largest wetland reed beds, where golden jackals, European minxes, and millions of birds all live. Packages from US$165. hotelplutitor arca.com Kolarbyn Ecolodge, Bergslagen Forest, Sweden | Tours of northern Hälsingland province, where wolves, bears, and wolverines roam, start at this primitive hotel. Packages from US$700. wildsweden.com Linden Tree Retreat & Ranch, Velebit Mountains, Croatia | Head to this 50-acre sanctuary for bears, undomesticated cattle, wild horses, and Balkan chamois. Rooms from US$60 . lindenretreat.com Villa Quintiliani Hotel, Central Apennines, Italy | Steps from this converted mansion is Wildlife Adventures (wildlife adventures.it), which offers trips into the forest to see Marsican brown bears. Rooms from US$130. villinoquintiliani.it Wild Farm, Rhodope Mountains, Bulgaria | More than 150 bird species,…

WHY LUGGAGE GETS LOST AND WHAT TO DO WHEN… It’s not at the carousel. File a report at the airline’s baggage office . Get a copy of the report, plus a direct customer-service phone number for your complaint. But what about underwear? Department of Transportation rules say the airline should cover ‘all reasonable, actual, and verifiable expenses’ stemming from lost, delayed, or damaged luggage. So you can expect to be paid back for essentials you buy—meaning a T-shirt or toiletries, not new Vilebrequin trunks. Location matters, says department spokeswoman Caitlin Harvey: If your bag gets lost on the flight home, you won’t get comped for new socks. And don’t assume the airline will pay for special items, like a delayed wedding dress. It might only cover rentals, so ask before…

IN SOFIA, TAKE A DRIVE SOUTH TO THE famous Rila Monastery. This surprisingly colourful building was established in the 10th century, but experienced multiple raids during the Ottoman occupation and suffered a fire in the 19th century. Still, the monastery was always rebuilt and restored, proving resilient through both time and war. Nestled in the Rila Mountains, this UNESCO World Heritage site should not be missed while travelling through Bulgaria. THE PETRIFIED WEDDING In a small town called Kardjali, three hours from Sofia, you’ll be amazed to find beautiful natural formations. The metal oxides in the rock give them shades of pink, red and brown. Scientists believe one of these—the Petrified Wedding started forming 40 billion years ago, due to underwater volcanic activity. Later, when the sea receded, the rocks…

THE HIGH TATRAS If you like epic, snow-capped mountains, beautiful forests, miles of incredible hikes filled with an array of rock formations, and crystal clear mountain water, then the High Tatras are the perfect dose of nature for you. Located right in the middle of the High Tatras is a small ski town called Nový Smokovec, which can be reached by either car or bus. Once you arrive, explore the small historic town and take in the various shops and eateries. When it’s time to sleep, venture on over to the Villa Dr Szontagh, named after the founding family of Nový Smokovec. To reach the mountain hiking trails, you can buy a ticket for the tram and ride it up to the start of the paths. There are five to…

SEVILLE IS SPAIN’S CYCLING CAPITAL In foreign lands there is always that one thing that connects us to home. The predominant cycle culture in Seville was that bond for Amrita Das. travelandleisureindia.in/ seville-isspains-cycling-capital A VIKING EXPERIENCE IN COPENHAGEN The Danish capital demands a little loyalty as you leave, by catching you off-guard when it evokes your hidden Viking instinct—the love for sailing, finds Anwesha Sanyal. travelandleisureindia.in/ a-vikingexperience-in-copenhagen COTSWOLDS AND YORKSHIRE’S BEST DRIVES Cotswolds and Yorkshire are not just about gentle hills, glorious villages, and old mansions anymore. Anand Kapoor takes the best drives in the country to discover stylish boutiques, vibrant cafes, Michelin-starred restaurants, and several charming villages. travelandleisureindia.in/cotswoldsand-yorkshire-best-drives DOWNLOAD US T+L Tablet Editions Available on iPad, Android, and Windows Tablets. FOLLOW US INSTAGRAM/ TRAVELANDLEISUREINDIA FACEBOOK.COM/…

SOUND THERAPY Where Ventana Big Sur, California (ventana inn.com); Faena Hotel Miami Beach (faena.com) What Sound bowls have been used for centuries by Tibetan monks—the pure tones and vibrations are said to provide immediate relaxation. Ventana offers quartz-bowl therapy , and Faena’s most popular treatment is its palo santo oil and sound-bowl treatment. FOREST BATHING Where Mayflower Grace, Washington, Connecticut (grace hotels.com ) What Shinrin-yoku, or forest bathing, is the Japanese practice of mindful hiking through nature and is believed to curb stress, boost immunity, and lower blood pressure. MEDITATION POD Where Ojai Valley Inn & Spa, Ojai, California (ojairesort.com); Six Senses Douro Valley, Portugal (sixsenses.com) What The om-inducing Soma- dome (the Ojai spa has one of only a few in the US) uses LED colour therapy and rhythmic beats…

SMART SENSORS The ultralight Plantronics BackBeat Sense will outlast the world’s longest nonstop flight, delivering up to 18 hours of continuous use on a single charge. Among the secrets to its long battery life: sensors that automatically pause your music when you take the headphones off. US$180; plantronics.com HANDS-FREE 2.0 If you’re wearing Muzik Convertible headphones, chances are you’ll never need to reach for your phone. Buttons on the right-hand cup allow you to switch tracks, adjust volume, activate speed dial, or answer an incoming call . US$299; muzikconnect.com BETTER BEATS Standard Bluetooth technology limits the amount of data that can be transmitted, resulting in lower-quality sound. But Sony’s new Hear On headset can transfer three times as much data , delivering a fuller, more rounded listening experience. US$350; sony.com…

When Mumbai disappeared from the rear view mirror, it finally felt like a long weekend. Before I planned this egress, the choices were obvious: Inveigle myself into a hotel already brimming with Mumbaikars looking for an escape and feel right at home with them, or go hunting for something new. I chose the latter. Driving around the hills, I was quite lost when I stumbled upon Jawhar, located in the Palghar district of Maharashtra. It looked perfect for those who love a good trek, evenings by a picturesque lake, and quiet time from the hustle bustle of a city life. Located at an altitude of 518m, it is surrounded by lush greenery and beautiful waterfalls. It is still untouched—the moment of discovery is a winning factor here. There’s a downside…

She was very old, at least 80, and she walked slowly, dragging a little metal cart that held a canvas bag. When she gestured at the bench, I said zapovyadaite, a word that means welcome or help yourself, and her face lit up. You speak Bulgarian, she said as she sat down, chudesno, wonderful, and she widened her legs to pull her cart between them. She was a slight woman, with short, thinning hair that stuck out wildly in all directions, and she was dressed for a different climate, in layers and long sleeves. Her face was scored and rescored with creases, and it moved with extraordinary animation, opening and closing in on itself so dramatically that I thought of the little folded paper fortune-tellers I made as a child.…

In the soft light of late afternoon, the larger-than-life sculptures of Ristorante Atelier Canova Tadolini seem to glow, pearlescent, against the restaurant’s crimson walls. Ten-foot, toga-clad patricians and outsize classical goddesses crowd the spaces between white-napped tables, while a soldier on horseback looms over a couple seated at a table with a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino. From somewhere behind the bar, an espresso machine hisses. There’s a clink as a barista places a little porcelain cup and saucer in front of a shop assistant on a break from her shift at the Valentino store, just down Via del Babuino. In front of her, a small model of Antonio Canova’s Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss is a quiet reminder that this place, today a bar and restaurant, was once the…

Unpack Unpack’s proposition is pretty appealing: Submit your clothing sizes, style profile, and the location and duration of your trip, and the company will deliver a destination-appropriate wardrobe, complete with toiletries, to your hotel. At the end of the journey, you send back everything but the toiletries. Customers start by choosing one of three standard rental bundles—casual and business sets for men and an all-in-one for women—then adding outerwear, extra tops, accessories, and more. The travel wardrobes start at US$30 for up to six days, with free shipping for orders over US$50—potentially cheaper than checking a bag. At press time the service, which was being tested in New York, planned to go national in mid-May. theunpack.com Fab if…you prize convenience above all. Bad if…you really, really care about what you…

Tiny keys and forgotten codes are becoming things of the past. Next-gen luggage locks pop open with your fingerprint or a tap of your phone—so they’re easy to use and difficult to pick. The best ones, by eGeeTouch (US$35; preorder at indiegogo.com) and AirBolt (US$53; preorder at theairbolt.com), use companion apps to establish Bluetooth or NFC connections. Aside from opening your suitcase, the apps let you authorise other users or see whether your bag has been inspected. (As with all TSA-approved locks, these have old-school keyholes for airport screeners’ keys.) Both systems let you sign into the app from another phone, in case yours runs out of juice. PACKING VIDEOS Whether you need to pack a wedding dress or a MacBook cord, get expert directions from T+L at travelandleisure india.in…

if the Buddha were living now I think he would use social media,” said Baasan Lama, the fresh-faced abbot of Erdene Zuu, Mongolia’s oldest monastery. He flashed a luminous smile. “I already have a Facebook page.” From the folds of his thick red-and-gold robes, he pulled a small book he had published four months earlier that offers 108 tips for right action in a scattered world. “Short,” he told me, in no-nonsense English. “People don’t like to read long books these days!” Visitors from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s boomtown capital, kept bundling into the small room where I was sitting with the Hamba Lama Baasansuren, as he is officially known, to receive his blessings and teachings. Not many minutes earlier, in the 17th -century whitewashed prayer hall next door, I’d listened…

KARLOVY VARY This is a historic Czech spa destination since the 14th century. The healing springs are like gold threads running through a rare tapestry of public fountains. It is hard to resist Karlovy Vary’s carefree spirit and the sense of stately calm on the promenade that runs between the splendid façade of grand houses and richly decorated colonnades. Knowing that Peter the Great, Marie Theresa, Bach, Goethe, Casanova and Beethove have taken the waters here just adds to the experience. The most renowned spas are located here and in neighbouring Marianske Lazne and Franiskovy Lazne. Karlovy Vary itself has 12 hot healing springs, with their most famous one that gushes up 15 metres in the air. Ascending a spa trail through woods to a height above the town and…

DRACULA AND SIGHISOARA’S CLOCK FIGURES This is a well-preserved medieval city founded by the Transylvanian Saxons. A UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for its citadel, clock tower and town square, what many miss are the figures on its rotating mechanism—carved from linden wood and representing the seven days of the week. Also, on your way out of Sighisoara, considering it is the birthplace of Vlad Tepes (better known as Dracula), stop at the many roadside castle ruins and take in the eerie landscape... Don’t feed the dogs! VILLACROSE AND MACCA PASSAGES These two pedestrian alleys in Bucharest are roofed with tinted glass and wrought iron. They are lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants in a ‘U’ shape. The sun gives a natural light to the alley when it hits the…