Innholdsfortegnelse for Edition 107, February-April 2025 i Travel Africa

For a while I have wanted to run a gatefold cover, as something which might emphasise the scale of Africa, extending the scope of our immediate view beyond the confines of a single page — and in the process enhance the tactile experience of reading a physical magazine. So when I was browsing around Beverly Joubert's fine art photography website and happened upon this extraordinary photograph of Makgadikgadi Pans, I knew it would be ideal. I couldn't stop staring at it, exploring the scene like a zebra version of Where's Wally. It demands to be used full size, to capture the sense of enormity that comes with that space and that volume of animals. Have you ever seen such a congregation of stripes in one place? But it also illustrates…

I remember vividly my first sight of Africa. The engines had just cut back to prepare for landing in Monrovia, sliding me out of sleep as dawn yawned into day. I gazed out the plane's window, mesmerised as a pink lemonade glow greeted West Africa's jungle coast and slid over the tips of its waving palms. That was in 1982, my first stop on route to Nairobi. Because of Africa, my life was to change exponentially in ways I could never have imagined. Having burned myself out as a Corrections Officer, I had recently landed a clerk position with a tour company that specialised in Africa. But instead of typing vouchers as intended, I was off to Kenya, leading a group of travel agents on a familiarisation trip. I had…

Ben and Nicky Neale Plains cooking From our camp in the Maasai Mara, we drove a short way to a wooded area, where a Maasai askari met us with hot towels and a cool drink. In a clearing on the banks of the Mara River was a table laid for two. To the left, I noticed two chefs, a barman, waiter and other staff, ready to serve us our favourite drinks and a personalised menu. The feast included fresh vegetable salads and soup, followed by Molo lamb chops, boerewors sausages and marinated sirloin steaks, with rice, roast devilled potatoes and a medley of vegetables; rounded off with desserts and Kenyan coffee. From a distance came the unmistakable chant of the Maasai, and seven warriors joined us for some post-meal entertainment.…

Loving a person is a fusion of emotional and chemical elements. Loving a place, I feel, is more complicated. I have lived and worked in several different countries and travelled in many more. I know immediately when I arrive if I feel comfortable, which usually means liking the people. My first visit to Madagascar — 'The Big Island', as the locals call it — was in 2008. A year later I was there again during the beginning of a coup d'état, one of many that has plagued the country since gaining Independence from France in 1960. However, I fell in love, first of all with the people, whom I found welcoming and attractive. I began to explore the island using local transport: taxi brousse (bush taxi). This is a very…

At the heart of southern Africa, in the cradle of two great river catchments, lie some of the continent's greatest natural wonders and most prolific wildlife — and a growing human population. The Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area is the largest terrestrial conservation area in the world and one of the most ambitious global conservation initiatives, focussing on securing these landscapes for people and biodiversity alike, living in harmony together. In this special report, we unpack the monumental scale of the project and the work being done on the ground, and consider how this impacts you (and vice versa). If you're seeking memorable travel experiences with an enduring positive impact, read on……

Tourism is an important pillar of Kavango Zambezi TFCA's mission, for it helps to support communities who live in and around areas with wildlife. Less visible endeavours supported by tourism include anti-poaching units and projects helping villagers to practice conservation agriculture and elephant-proof their crops. Your brief footprint in Africa can impact positively for the greater good, leaving a more poignant lasting impression. TUKONGOTE COMMUNITY PROJECTS (ZAMBIA) Guests of Waterberry Lodge in Livingstone can experience everyday rural Zambian life on a village walk. And at the same time, witness how the Tukongote School, founded by the lodge, has gone from a humble single classroom to a first-world school including adult education. Waterberry also runs a prolific community farming project. Desert and Delta Safaris (Botswana) Driven by a 'CARES' philosophy, this…

Livingstone is a town where the past meets the present in the most effortless way. Walking through its streets, you'll see colonial buildings side by side with vibrant markets, and business professionals in crisp suits crossing paths with locals in colourful chitenge fabrics. While Victoria Falls may grab most of the attention around here, it's the warmth of the community, its history and its rich culture that truly makes Livingstone stand out. The iconic mist of Victoria Falls — visible even from miles away — serves as a constant reminder of the natural wonder that anchors this town. On the Zambian side, as well as a view down the length of the gorge, the walk down to the Boiling Pot at the base of the Falls is a favourite: challenging…

1 WEIRD, WONDERFUL, WILD LIFE WITNESS THE ZEBRA MIGRATION NXAI PAN NP / BOTETI RIVER The mud roads are absurdly slippery. I cling onto my canvas seat as our guide expertly swings the steering wheel to navigate us through the sticky clay of the salt pans. It's a time of plenty. Plenty of rain. Plenty of mud. Plenty of animals. There is life and action, and it is flipping exciting! Botswana's national animal is the zebra, and during the nourishing rains from December to March, you can spot them in their thousands across Nxai Pan National Park. But that's only half the story: the rambling landscape is a luminous green; flowers erupt from acacia branches and trumpet thorn trees; unbearably cute bateared foxes, with satellite ears and pointed noses, race…

1 SIOMA NGWEZI NATIONAL PARK At 5276sq km, this is the third largest national park in Zambia, embracing a huge expanse of floodplain between the Zambezi and Kwando rivers. It was declared a protected area by the Litunga people more than a century ago. Heavily poached in the past, the park is seeing a slow, but impressive, wildlife recovery. Historically this was a vital migratory corridor for elephants, and in recent years they have been seen in the southeast of the park, where they have re-established an old migration route. There are also increasingly frequent sightings of lion, leopard, cheetah, giraffe, buffalo, hippo and numerous antelope species. Sioma Ngwezi is surrounded by a 35,000sq km Game Management Area, allowing for free movement of animals between this expanded area and over the…

Perched on the escarpment overlooking Lake Kariba, the views are enchanting. I stand beside the infinity pool at Bumi Hills Safari Lodge, its water seemingly merged with the shimmering blue expanse stretching out below. I'm at eye level with a pair of soaring vultures while, far below, families of elephants promenade and paddle by the lakeshore; mothers and their young play and wrestle in the shallows, using their trunks like built-in snorkels. There is something wonderful about witnessing wild animals doing something purely for fun. Kariba — the world's largest manmade lake (by volume) — is located along the Zambezi River, forming the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Created by damming the gorge 400km downstream of the Victoria Falls, the lake is 220km long, up to 40km wide in places,…

Hwange is special. Over many years, it has granted me unforgettable memories: those times when elephants silently approach waterholes, like ghosts in the dusky light as we sip our sundowners, or lion cubs I've watched finding their way in the wild and later seeing as dominant males. But the memories are as much about people as they are about pachyderms and predators: people who strive to protect this vast reserve and live alongside it with their challenging wildlife neighbours. Most safari operators in Zimbabwe's largest national park contribute towards conservation and communities, establishing their own initiatives or supporting existing projects. On my first visit in 2012, I stayed at Somalisa Camp with lodge operator Beks Ndlovu, founder of African Bush Camps and its ABC Foundation (ABCF). Few tourists visited then,…

For the best Zambezi River experiences, stay significantly upriver of Victoria Falls on either the Zambian or Zimbabwean side. There are several good lodges that offer comfort and more exclusive river activities, as well as access to the Falls. In Chobe National Park, an alternative to staying in a lodge along the river is to book a houseboat, which operates on the Namibian side and is a good way of getting away from the busier Chobe riverfront. MICHELE SEAMARK, SAFARI CONSULTANTS The Zambezi Region is an unusual but excellent way to experience Namibia and also provides access to the landscape and wildlife of northern Botswana, but without the price tag. The Mahango Core Area of Bwabwata National Park is very under-rated, but great for seeing roan and sable antelope. THOMAS BEVAN, EXPERT…

In the spotlight: ALBERTINE APES ALLIANCE THE COLLECTIVE EFFORT DRIVING ONE OF AFRICA'S CONSERVATION SUCCESS STORIES Volcanoes Safaris' founder Praveen Moman is passionate about protecting great ape homelands and supporting their human neighbours. Thirty years ago, he was among the first to open lodges in the region. More recently, he helped establish the Albertine Apes Alliance (AAA), an informal advocacy network bringing together community and conservation NGOs, government authorities and other stakeholders committed to safeguarding the future of Albertine Rift protected areas. Participating NGOs include Conservation Through Public Health, Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, Gorilla Doctors and the Jane Goodall Institute, among many others. Kevin James, Volcanoes' Chief Operating Officer, explains: “Set up in 2022 at Mount Gahinga Lodge, the AAA is a forum for communication and for collaboration between the…

When we go on safari, we often dream of the chance to see iconic species such as lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and buffalo. Don't get me wrong: it is absolutely thrilling to see these majestic animals in the wild. But it is what happens when you have seen them that I think the real magic of being in the bush happens — for now you can focus on seeking out the smaller and sometimes overlooked wonders of the wild. Looking beyond the so-called 'Big Five' allows an opportunity to form a deeper connection with Africa's lesser-known species. Take the pangolin, as an example — a critically endangered and notoriously shy creature which you might spot somewhere like Tswalu Kalahari Game Reserve in South Africa. Tswalu runs a Pangolin Guardian Programme…

Bathed in the soft glow of lanterns, the campfire crackling in front of us, Dickson Sakaya tells me his story. It's one that has seen him transform from cattle herder into the manager of Enkishui Wild Eye Mara Camp. His is not just a tale of personal endeavour, but a testament to the evolving relationship between indigenous cultures and tourism, the magic of human connection… and the terror of being chased by zombies. “When I first met the owners of Wild Eye,” Dickson recalls, “I couldn't speak English.” That was 13 years ago. Today, he converses fluently — all the more impressive because he didn't go to school. He applied himself diligently, listening to English lessons on his phone. This is just one of the profound changes he's experienced through…

AFRICA IN A NUTSHELL The Kingdom of Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) may be small, but it has strong, enduring appeal, says Jenny Bowen I am addicted to sub-Saharan Africa, to the point where I don't know what I would do if I hadn't got a trip planned. The quote 'You never want to wash the dust of Africa from your soul' rings so true. I've been to many African countries; each very different, with its own unique feel. For me, Eswatini is like going home. I love the sense of familiarity when I return. Often I'm greeted with a “Welcome back, Jenny!” as I arrive on the TransMagnific shuttle bus from Johannesburg, or a cheery “Welcome home!” from Affordable Car Hire when I pick up a vehicle, and often I bump into…

“You'll be Mama Africa,” laughed a friend, as Betsy our Land Cruiser sallied forth north into Mozambique, positively groaning under the weight of our luggage, a sea kayak, five children, and a potjie pot full of stew lashed to the roof-rack. Our destination: Beira. Where? Yes, exactly what I thought when my seafaring husband invited us on this mission into the unknown. Beira is Mozambique's second largest deep water port and almost exactly halfway between its southern and northern borders — a 1689km drive from our home in the Drakensburg, in South Africa (a trip we'd end up making 45 times). Even with the unhappy, ongoing turmoil in Mozambique and the cyclones that keep picking on it, this beautiful war-torn city remains a gem. I cried when we arrived because…

I'm sitting in a small boat watching a large bull elephant. The elephant isn't paying us much attention. He's standing chest-deep in the middle of a river, methodically unwinding ropes of waterweed from a stand of papyrus and stuffing them into his enormous maw. We drift slowly past, borne on the inexorable current. It looks as though he'll be here a while. So, where am I? Well, this river is the Kwando, I know that much. If we were simply to go with the flow, it would carry us into the Linyanti River, which would in turn become the Chobe River and, continuing eastwards, would eventually deliver us to the mighty Zambezi. But which country? That's harder to say. The river's left bank is Namibia, but the opposite one is…

How many have you seen? 1.PEL'S FISHING OWL: Check large roosting trees above rivers and pools; nocturnal 2.AFRICAN FINFOOT: Search quiet backwaters, looking under overhanging vegetation 3.WESTERN BANDED SNAKE-EAGLE: Sits for long periods; listen for loud kok-kok-kok call 4.AFRICAN SKIMMER: Scan river sandbanks; look for unique 'skimming' feeding technique 5.WATTLED CRANE: Scour open floodplains, especially in Okavango and southwest Zambia 6.SLATY EGRET: Endemic to region; search marshy wetlands 7.LESSER FLAMINGO: Visit Sua Pan during March–June breeding season 8.BROAD-BILLED ROLLER: Keep your eyes out for noisy, acrobatic flight; summer visitor 9.AFRICAN PYGMY GOOSE: Look among lilies on wetland pools; mokoro trips are good 10.ROCK PRATINCOLE: Seek out small groups perched on rocks in large rivers…

There are places in the world that are so over-hyped it's hard for them to live up to expectations. Victoria Falls is not one of them. Touted as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, certified by UNESCO as 'the world's greatest sheet of falling water', and lauded by David Livingstone, the Scottish missionary who named the site in 1855, as “scenes so lovely [they] must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”, Victoria Falls has such stellar reviews I was half-expecting to find the experience a little disappointing. But as I gape at the roaring 108-metre-tall cascade, with spray fogging my camera lens and droplets beading my hair like melting hoarfrost on an sunny English January morning, while a rainbow unfurls in the gorge below…

Elephants are regular visitors to the Zambian town of Livingstone, near the Victoria Falls, especially during the fruiting season when they leave the nearby Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park after dark in search of fresh foraging. Dangerous situations may arise when the animals enter built-up areas, and an average of eight human fatalities per year were being recorded — notably among certain teenage gangs, who had developed a 'dare' game of attempting to touch the elephants' tails. The Livingstone Conservation and Tourism Society (CATS) was launched in 2018 to address this issue and is an excellent example of the many NGOs working within the Kavango Zambezi TFCA on localised situations of human-wildlife conflict. CATS's dedicated Elephant Response Team reacts to callouts and conducts 24-hour patrols to establish whether elephants are present —…

THE LIVINGSTONE MUSEUM LIVINGSTONE, ZAMBIA Zambia's oldest and largest museum provides a window into the country's precolonial, colonial and modern history. Highlights include letters penned by Dr David Livingstone (that you can rifle through using an innovative wooden slider) and extensive collections of maps, natural history specimens and information on local chiefdoms, human migration routes, and so much more. LIVINGSTONE'S MUSEUM SANGWALI, ZAMBEZI REGION, NAMIBIA Located near Nkasa Rupara National Park, this small museum spotlights the lesserknown route that Dr David Livingstone travelled through the Linyanti swamps in 1856, where he befriended the Makololo leader, Chief Sebetwane. Although modest in size, the museum showcases artefacts and information about the indigenous communities, documents the tragic Helmore-Price missionary expedition and emphasises Livingstone's contributions to the abolition of slavery. VEEKUHANE CULTURAL MUSEUM KAVIMBA,…

Floating in the balmy waters of a hot spring near McBrides' Camp, near where the Kafue River meets the Mushingashi River in northeastern Kafue National Park, my thoughts drifted to the hidden forces beneath me. Tectonic activity deep within the earth was heating the water that rose to the surface. I revelled in the warm bubbles rising against my skin and scanned the surroundings for elephants. Grassy evidence of their presence floated among the water lilies. “Elephants do use the springs,” explained guide Catherine Hoy, “but the water is too warm and sulphuric for hippos and crocodiles.” For humans, the sulphur concentration is relatively low, sparing us the acrid smell of rotten eggs often associated with geothermal springs. It was pleasant to linger and reflect on the morning's sightings: Böhm's…

Mike checked his rifle. “Stay close,” he said, as we walked away from the relative safety of the game-viewing vehicle. “This is a popular place for elephants to come for a drink when they are away from the lake.” We gingerly approached the lip of the gulley that contains the Shenga River and peered over, hoping to creep up on unsuspecting animals quenching their thirst. Being winter, the riverbed was mostly dry, and the small pool of water dug into the sand below us yielded no game. We dropped down the high bank and inspected the tracks around the waterhole. It was evident that both leopard and lion had passed through this way in the last 48 hours. Mike led us a couple of hundred metres further upstream to some…

SHOTS ACROSS THE WATER: TALES OF A JOURNEY THROUGH AFRICA (JOURNEY BOOKS/BRADT GUIDES) “This journey set me up for the rest of my life and career,” writes Patrick Nash, now one of the UK's most successful socio-entrepreneurs. “If I had not done it, I don't think I would have made the decisions I subsequently made.” In 1980, aged 22, Nash set off for Africa, walking and hitchhiking the width of the continent from Egypt to Morocco via Sudan, Kenya, Uganda, Zaire (now the DR Congo), the Central African Republic, Cameroon, Nigeria, Niger and Algeria. As with most travel when young, the author set off on nothing more than a wing and a prayer. Originally heading for Eswatini (then Swaziland), his trip took several unexpected turns, not least because of conversations…

When I mention Ghana in conversation, a smile will track across the face of anyone listening who's had the fortune of travelling there, which is odd when you consider some of its roads are atrocious, the food often described — wrongly, in my view — as an acquired taste (code for 'not very nice') and the climate burgeoning on sticky year-round. But, as the smiles testify, Ghana also has something about it — an X factor which triggers a headlong rush of endorphins in me every time I see the black star at the centre of the country's flag. It's being able to capture a sense of adventure while knowing nothing can go too wrong, given Ghana's famed (and genuine) friendliness. It's being helped with no expectation of return, made…

August–October 2022 saw the partner countries conduct an aerial elephant survey to assess the population and distribution of elephants, plus other larger herbivores. The survey covered 60 per cent of the TFCA, completing a total of 398 hours over 68 days, and collecting data on 2404 transects. From the results obtained, the following estimates were made: ELEPHANT: 227,900 BUFFALO: 78,264 GIRAFFE: 12,771 HARTEBEEST: 10,905 HIPPOPOTAMUS: 17,006 IMPALA: 100,028 ROAN: 7,428 SABLE: 39,966 WILDEBEEST: 22,245 ZEBRA: 88,250 DOMESTIC LIVESTOCK: 736,426 (73 per cent were cattle; 24 per cent sheep and goats)…

Unsurprisingly, given it spans an area almost twice the size of the UK, a vast array of conservation organisations strive to protect Kavango Zambezi's sweeping habitats and their varied fauna and flora. Some are huge global entities working across the whole landscape; others operate at a more local grass-roots level, but each has an important role to play. Among them, the prestigious African Leadership University's School of Wildlife Conservation (SOWC) is conducting important research as part of its pan-African State of the Wildlife Economy project. Its case studies on Zambia and Zimbabwe have been published and those on Angola, Namibia and Botswana will be released shortly. It is also producing a report that will cover the entire Kavango Zambezi ecosystem, which will be a vital tool in harnessing its future…

DARE: THE BUNGEE JUMP OFF THE VICTORIA FALLS BRIDGE IS 111M HIGH…

On the long road north through Namibia, way beyond Etosha, beyond even Khaudum, it can feel like I'm running out of country. I have been travelling for days — out of Windhoek, through a series of conservancies, then into the deep sands of Khaudum, a land of lions and wild dogs. In Khaudum, there were no other vehicles. And for days I've seen no other travellers. Leaving behind the wide open spaces of the Namibian heartland, the road takes a sharp right towards the Zambezi Region, formerly known as the Caprivi Strip. Seen from above or on a map, Namibia's Zambezi Region looks like a cartographical anomaly. In 1890, Germany took control of this narrow stretch of land to connect its colony in what we now know as Namibia with…

By the time we made camp I was in a kind of a fugue state. Disorientated, shaken, tired — and in awe. We were in southeastern Angola, a viewsall-round clearing between a large mud flat and a low, wide hill somewhere in Luengue-Luiana National Park. Covering much of the country's far-flung, halfforgotten Cuando Province and wedged into the armpit formed by Namibia to the south and Zambia to the east, the park is goosebumps country, a wilderness sufficiently raw and rugged that it seems to exist outside of time. My exhaustion was from a long day of demanding driving. For hours we'd been on tracks so soft that someone in our convoy of 18 Land Rovers was getting stuck in the sand every few minutes. And there were long stretches…

WHY DID KAFUE INTEREST AFRICAN PARKS? For years, Kafue had suffered from poaching for bushmeat. When we first started patrols, we flew over major pathways where poachers on bicycles were ferrying meat out. It's one of Africa's biggest parks and had various NGO interventions, but nobody supported the whole park. It needed a partner who could work at scale and do everything required. The great thing is there is space for everyone. Conservation NGOs monitoring wildlife are still here, helping to inform management decisions. Law enforcement NGOs have moved into Game Management Areas (GMAs) bordering the park, providing further protection. WHAT WORK WAS NEEDED? Managing this vast park demands huge infrastructure. We divided it into five sectors, each roughly 500,000 hectares. Over 2000 kilometres of roads need grading annually, as…

It had been a bumpy ride on the Karoi to Binga highway, and we were apprehensive turning onto the track to Chizarira National Park, which we had read could be another two “tortuous” hours to the entry gate and on to reception. We were pleasantly surprised, therefore, when we were checking in just 45 minutes later, a testament to the work that had been done on upgrading the roads. We had wound our way up through a beautiful, forested chasm to the escarpment, where the majority of the park is situated. There are several campsites to choose from, but the favoured ones sit on the edge of Mucheni Gorge, with magnificent views over the Zambezi Valley and on towards Lake Kariba. At 1920sq km, Chizarira is Zimbabwe's fourth biggest national…

SELF-DRIVE SUGGESTED BY: DRIVE BOTSWANA 16 DAYS: MAUN–MAUN VIA VICTORIA FALLS Days 1-3: Western Okavango panhandle (Botswana) Days 4-5: Western Zambezi Region (Namibia) Days 6-7: Bwabwata National Park (Namibia) Days 8-9: Chobe riverfront (Botswana) Days 10-11: Victoria Falls, as either day trip or one or two nights (Zimbabwe) Days 12-13: Savuti, Chobe NP (Botswana) Days 14-16: Moremi Game Reserve (Botswana) FLY-IN SUGGESTED BY: MAHLATINI 9 DAYS: KAFUE, LIVINGSTONE AND HWANGE Days 1-4: Fly into Lusaka (Zambia) and transfer by light aircraft to Shumba Camp for game-watching in the Busanga Plains area of Kafue National Park. Days 4-6: Fly to Toka Leya Camp, Livingstone. Admire the Victoria Falls, take a scenic helicopter flight, try white water rafting, cruise along the Zambezi and more. Days 6-8: Transfer by light aircraft to Linkwasha…

TUSK CONSERVATION AWARDS The British-based charity Tusk helps fund conservation projects across Africa. Its annual awards in London (www.tuskawards.com), now in their 12th year, are presented by its patron HRH The Prince of Wales. The 2024 winners included: NOMBA GANAMÉ (MALI) THE 2024 PRINCE WILLIAM AWARD FOR CONSERVATION IN AFRICA Nomba Ganamé won this lifetime achievement award for his dedicated work as Head of Field Operations for the Mali Elephant Project. He's faced some tough challenges in this volatile region, among them conflict, trafficking and poaching, but has resolutely believed in the power of local communities to help protect desert elephants and their habitats. His 'elephant-centred' model of landscape restoration benefits both pachyderms and local livelihoods. Empowering 'eco-guardians' to protect habitats and migratory routes, he encourages grassroots, community-led environmental management…

Reader review ANKAZOBERAVINA ECOLODGE, MADAGASCAR Hidden away on a private island off Nosy Be, the eight-chalet Ankazoberavina Eco Lodge is pure magic. Perfect for couples, families or solo adventurers seeking seclusion, safety and nature, the lodge provides amazing wildlife viewing, stunning scenery and peaceful relaxation. The island brims with wildlife, including black and sportive lemurs, vibrant birdlife (watch for resident fish eagles) and hawksbill turtles, which were nesting right in front of my chalet. As an eco-lodge, this is rustic luxury: minimal hot water and WiFi, and no fans (just a tropical breeze to cool you), but it's the perfect place to chill. Its treehouse accommodation is the ultimate Robinson Crusoe experience. The activities are plentiful, too: snorkel or scuba dive on the fantastic coral reefs that surround the island,…