Innholdsfortegnelse for Edition 106, November 24-January 25 i Travel Africa

Tanzania Tanzania is an unparalleled wildlife destination, offering some of the most breathtaking landscapes and diverse ecosystems in Africa. From the vast plains of the Serengeti to the lush forests of Mahale, each park offers a unique experience, rich with wildlife encounters and stunning vistas. My travels here have been nothing short of extraordinary, as each visit reveals something new and unexpected. Tanzania stands out not only for the sheer abundance of wildlife, but also for the deep connection you feel to nature — it's as if the land itself is alive. Whether you're a seasoned traveller or a first-time visitor, Tanzania's national parks are a must-visit, promising unforgettable moments and countless opportunities for remarkable photography. Tarangire National Park WHY I LIKT IT: Tarangire is known for its elephant herds…

1 African skimmer Skimmers are the only birds with a lower mandible longer than their upper. They feed by flying low over the water and slicing the surface with this mandible, snapping up by lightning-fast muscular reflex action any food they encounter. 2 Silvery-cheeked hornbill The huge casque on the upper mandible of this species may serve several functions, including sexual display, social status and thermoregulation. It is probably not a resonating chamber to amplify the bird's call, as was once thought. 3 African openbill This stork is unique among African birds in having mandibles that do not close fully except at the tip. This shape allows it to use them as pincers for prising aquatic snails from their shells. 4 Greater flamingo Flamingos feed by sweeping the shallows with their inverted bill. Hair-like…

Mention Zimbabwe to somebody and their first thought usually involves the splendour of the mighty Victoria Falls or perhaps images of animals roaming one of the country's magnificent wildlife reserves, such as Mana Pools or the bigger Hwange National Park. Yet so impressive are the mountains that run along Zimbabwe's eastern border with Mozambique, that Jeremy Clarkson, while leaving the Eastern Highlands in the final episode of The Grand Tour, remarked: “God had done all the other countries in the world and he got to the end of the alphabet. He got to Zimbabwe and he thought, 'This is going to be my best work, this is going to be my greatest hits'.” As recently as the 1990s, the Eastern Highlands were one of Zimbabwe's top tourist destinations, but the…

Namibia Somebody's shouting. The hoarse yell sounds almost human, but there's no mistaking the alarm bark of a male baboon. For the last 15 minutes we've been on the trail of two lions, dawn light stencilling their spoor on the sandy track. Now this primate warning suggests the cats must be close. Other baboons join in, ramping up the outrage. Our guide Lucius Tuyuve kills the engine. We sit tight, straining eyes and ears. Where are they? A tap on my arm. Lucius nods towards our right. A tawny lioness comes padding towards us out of the golden grass and crosses the road ahead. Close behind comes her heavy-maned suitor. He fixes us with a glare, then backs up to spray his territorial signature over a convenient bush. We get…

Last year proved to be highly successful for Earl, Tygee, Gene, Ody and Cassi, CSL's five dogs trained in the USA in the fight against wildlife crime. They were deployed in 154 operations, including: • 15 random and quick checkpoints • 98 half-or full-day roadblocks on known trafficking routes • 14,365 vehicle searches • 25 intelligence-led property searches In the context of CSL's law enforcement activities as a whole, the K9 Unit is responsible for 24 per cent of all suspects arrested, 29 per cent of firearms confiscated and 59 per cent of bushmeat seized. Yet the costs to run the team accounted for just 7 per cent of CSL's total expenditure. In their downtime, the dogs enjoy nothing better than to play ball games, run and swim or simply…

THE SOUND OF SILENCE The desire for peace and quiet is not just for the wellbeing of humankind — it benefits wildlife and the environment too (as we noticed during the Covid lockdown). Such solace can be found in southwest Namibia, where NamibRand Nature Reserve has been proclaimed as Africa's first Wilderness Quiet Park — the fourth public space in the world to receive the designation. The accolade from Quiet Parks International (QPI) highlights the 200,000-hectare reserve's commitment to “preserving its natural soundscape and wilderness character”, said Matt Mikkelsen, executive director of Wilderness Quiet Parks. “By promoting awareness of natural sounds, NamibRand encourages reverence for its ecosystems and fosters a deeper connection to nature.” QPI is a non-profit dedicated to preserving quiet for the benefit of all life, and its…

Sustainability is becoming a key consideration for discerning travellers to Africa, especially in our choice of camps and lodges. But how do we know that the tour operators who book our safaris are equally committed to running their businesses in a way that goes beyond mere greenwashing? B Lab, the non-profit organisation that awards B Corp certifications, was founded in 2006 by three friends in the USA who believed businesses could and should be a force for good. They created a framework to verify companies that meet high standards of social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability. It matters because the 'B' stands for 'benefits for all', ensuring companies are run not just for shareholders but for all stakeholders — for 'people and plane' — embracing the environment, communities, customers,…

Q How has tourism in Victoria Falls changed over the last 30 years? It has changed dramatically in terms of access and in the number of beds available, both here and in our neighbours Livingstone (Zambia) and Kasane (Botswana). There are now close to 5000 beds in Victoria Falls and a much broader range of properties — from small to large, from privately-owned to corporate. More international brands are looking at coming in and there are new developments on the cards, be it from activity, accommodation or experience providers. We see that growth continuing at a managed pace — and it is vital that humans and wildlife continue to co-exist well in the region. Q How have travel habits changed? People now chose to stay longer in fewer destinations: instead…

INDABA Looking for that perfect festive gift? One that helps Africa's wildlife, as well as solves that age-old problem of what to get for one of your friends or family? Well, Uganda-born artist Karen Laurence-Rowe's Orphan Collection, which features the orphaned elephants of Reteti, ticks both boxes. Proceeds from her latest set of watercolour prints go to Reteti, Africa's first community-owned elephant sanctuary, in northern Kenya, which takes in orphaned and abandoned elephant calves (up to 25 annually) with the aim of releasing them back into the wild. Lomunyak (pictured above) was rescued in 2020 from the fast-flowing Ewaso Nyiro River in the Samburu National Reserve, where he was discovered floundering with serious head wounds, believed to be from a croc or lion attack. Reteti has slowly nursed the traumatised…

Walking To use a well-worn cliché: “From a vehicle you see Africa. On foot you feel, hear and smell Africa.” This is so true. There are myriad opportunities to walk wherever you go on the continent. From the beaches to the towns, to game reserves, forests, deserts, hills and mountains, getting out on foot gives you a deeper connection to the place and to nature, with proven benefits for your wellbeing and your soul (or should that be sole?). Over the following 26 pages, three seasoned ramblers focus on distinct experiences dear to them: walking with wildlife, slackpacking in South Africa and hiking in the Atlas mountains - covering the deep south to the northern heights, and safariland inbetween. Each offers something different, yet equally rewarding. We hope this will…

Sierra Leone I call it Salone syndrome, making good use of Sierra Leone's endearing and enduring nickname. Salone syndrome defines the almost uncontrollable desire in people to return to this nation, which for far too long has simply fallen under the banner 'beleaguered.' That's despite it having a better Global Peace Index score from Australia-based NGO The Institute for Economics and Peace than France. (Sierra Leone ranks 66th out of 163 nations, compared to L'hexagone's 86th.) I've been a sufferer of Salone syndrome for 13 years. There is no cure, and the only treatment is a dose of sweet Salone herself: the country should come with the health warning 'proven to be highly addictive even in small quantities'. Time and time again I've met fellow travellers who answer “what brought…

Seychelles From the windy summit of Morne Blanc, we looked out at the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean that stretched all the way to the horizon. Brilliant blue skies hung overhead, washed clean by light morning showers. Panoramic views of the western side of Mahé island were a lush verdant green, covering the undulating hills below, and distant islands dotted the sparkling sea. It had been a short but fairly steep climb through the misty rainforest of the Morne Seychellois National Park — more than 3000 hectares of mountainous jungle and mangroves that covers 20 per cent of Mahé. We walked past towering tree ferns, with the rustle of leaves underfoot and birdsong filtering through the dense forest. The air was cooler here, the forest canopy enveloping the trail…

Zambia An elephant is a hexagon. An impala a rectangle. A hippo? An oval-square-rectangle combo. A giraffe? Well, that's pretty much a rhombus with a long triangle perched on the top corner. How many circles make a zebra? (Three.) And, lions are the last animals I'd wish to insult, but they do have bucket heads. You'd think that every bird would be a pair of circles, like a snowman, but it turns out not all of our feathered friends are equal. Some are more ovular, or even square, though the most imposing are often triangles. People, too, can be like that. This game could have you looking differently at your pet dog, but when you have a pencil in your hand and a herd of wild animals in front of…

Just before the cacophony (or should that be euphony?) of a Delta dawn, there's a moment when the wild world holds its breath. As a photographer and bush nut, I awake in that thawing dark when the air is thick with suspense and potential. I've learned that Botswana has a rhythm of its own. An. Unhurried. Deliberate. Pace. Unlike my hasty, high-speed hometown of Johannesburg, few things are needlessly rushed in Botswana. Even time takes its time, resulting in a palpable calm that I have grown to adore. As the sun rises proudly, but of course, slowly, above the flattened edge of our Earth (you're hard-pressed to find peaks in Botswana), the shadows of night are gradually substituted with honey-hued light that leaks through the trees and clings to the…

WHO'S COUNTING? Zambia's Kasanka National Park is the setting for a mesmerising aerial display like no other. Every evening at dusk from November to January, the skies turn dark as vast flocks of migratory African straw-coloured fruit bats leave their roost to feed. How many join this annual migration? Visual estimates range widely from one million to ten million. But, understandably, they've never been actually counted — until recently. Using nine GoPro cameras cleverly positioned to aim upwards as they film the flying silhouettes against pale skies, researchers amassed 45 hours of footage over five days. They then created an AI programme to do the counting for them — and it did so in around 50 hours, where humans would have taken some 13 years. The answer? 987,114 bats, rounded…

Wildlife Conservation Network (WCN) is a venture-capitalist-style non-profit which supports the conservation of Africa's wildlife through species-specific grant funding. Perhaps best-known for the Lion Recovery Fund, their portfolio extends to elephants, pangolins and rhinos. Now, painted dogs are also joining their ranks, with a new fund created specifically for their conservation in partnership with the Painted Wolf Foundation (PWF). Known variously as African wild dogs, painted dogs or painted wolves, only 6500 of these persecuted predators survive across the continent. Each having uniquely patterned coats, they live in packs with fascinating social dynamics led by their alpha female, but they are threatened by habitat loss, human-wildlife conflict, snaring, traffic and declining prey numbers. This new conservation fund could be a game-changer. Since 2013, WCN has raised more than US$100 million…

In terms of the mechanics of the day, an Art Safari is remarkably similar to a 'normal' trip: a pre-dawn wake-up, quick breakfast and in to the park by six; back to Thornicroft for an expansive brunch at 11ish; time to chill before afternoon tea and back out on another game-drive. In South Luangwa the gates close only at 8pm, so sundowners were followed by a night drive back to camp, usually arriving around 7.30pm. A fine three-course dinner was served soon thereafter, before we collapsed into bed around 9.30pm. Although I can cope fine with social situations, I am not naturally drawn to them. I needn't have worried. The group settled quickly, each of us finding our own rhythm, and there was ample opportunity to be chatty or have…

Okavango Delta Mokoro and camp on an island. Cut through the crystal waters in a traditional canoe and spend the night on a remote island with polers and walking guides from the Okavango Kopano Mokoro Community Trust, with catering and camping equipment organised through Delta Rain. Shangana Safaris also offer campouts from their base, Lazy River Okavango Island Hideaway. Camp wild. Rent a 4WD vehicle in Maun, pitch your tent by the Khwai River at Mbudi Campsite, or adventure to Third Bridge in Moremi Game Reserve for incredible wildlife viewing, with the thrill and freedom of self-driving. Self-drive to a luxury lodge. Want thrills and comfort without flying? Mma Dinare, Camp Moremi, Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge and Mogotlho Safari Lodge are all accessible by 4WD. Fly in and splash out.…

Conservation TRACKING THE WORLD'S MOST TRAFFICKED MAMMAL Conservation organisation African Parks (AP) and non-profit Tikki Hywood Foundation (THF) are sharing their expertise and resources in a pioneering partnership to save critically endangered pangolins. Joanna Craig, AP's funding and reporting manager at Zimbabwe's Matusadona National Park, describes how they continue to monitor these elusive creatures once they are back in the wild. After hiking up Matusadona's escarpment for close on two hours, we stopped under the shade of a tree, listening hard for the tell-tale tick-tick-tick from a telemetry device attached to the scales of a pangolin. We were searching for Mbeu, the 298th pangolin to come under THF's care. Named after the Ndau word for the tiny tree seed she resembled on her rescue, Mbeu had been released into the…

The recent Earthshot Awards Ceremony in Cape Town was a celebration of the intiative of people across the globe working to protect our planet. Prince William, Earthshot's Founder and President, announced the five winners to receive £1 million each to scale their innovative solutions — two of whom are African. Of the 1000-plus nominees this year, over 400 were from the continent, an indication of the ingenuity in a whole gamut of solutions that focus on conserving our fragile environment. Of these, the following three were among the 15 finalists… and the first two were winners: GAYO (GREEN AFRICA YOUTH ORGANISATION), GHANA AND UGANDA In many African cities, waste management is struggling to keep up with expansion, leading to open burning, excessive landfill use and air pollution. GAYO works with…

Imagine”, says Paula, as she carefully digs around a piece of bone that juts out of the earth, “just imagine if I find that one fossil that is the missing piece in a great big human ancestor puzzle?” Paula is from Ireland and is a long way from home at the bottom of an excavation pit in the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site in South Africa, where around 40 per cent of Africa's human ancestor fossils have been found. She's one of six international tourists who are here on a paleo-safari organised by Ancient Odysseys, a US-based travel company that offers people the chance to get in touch with their inner Indiana Jones, as they put it, and participate in scientific digs and excavations around the world. “We offer…

FAR REACHING A new initiative from Asilia Africa aims to help preserve one of the world's most critical and biodiverse ecosystems — the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. The operator is supporting the creation of a 45-acre buffer zone adjacent to the national park, which will provide an area for wildlife to expand into as well as enabling access to the forest for the Batwa people and providing new sources of income for the local community. Bwindi is home to over half of the world's mountain gorilla population and more than 1000 species of flora and fauna, many of which are endemic. It also holds deep cultural significance as the ancestral land of the Batwa. As part of the project, Asilia is to build a new lodge, Erebero Hills, set…