Innholdsfortegnelse for Edition 105, August-October 2024 i Travel Africa

Rays of light had begun to penetrate the grey dawn as I joined the small group huddled around the fire. Fingers of smoke enveloped a large blackened kettle. This was one of the many things I was loving about Nxamaseri Island Lodge: the occasional nod to old-fashioned tradition. There was a buzz of excited anticipation as we sipped the first coffee of the day. Soon we would be heading to the Tsodilo Hills, to view the ancient rock art now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In my travels over the years I have traipsed many miles across stoney tracks and crawled into caves to view smudges on walls that local guides worked hard to interpret as symbolic images. I was hoping today would be different. But even if…

Zambia It’s early morning, long before sunrise. I’m snuggled up in bed, warm and cosy, in a tent on Shoebill Island, a tiny islet in the Bangweulu Wetlands. The camp is tucked into a grove of quinine trees and I’m reluctant to leave it and go out into the cold. We’ve woken early to paddle through the complex mass of narrow, vegetation-choked channels leading to the floodplains, where we hope to see the endemic black lechwe that make this unique wetland home. In the local Bembe language, Bangweulu means ‘where the water meets the sky’, which perfectly describes this community-owned, protected area in north-eastern Zambia. Spread across 9,850sq km, this extraordinary ecosystem comprises floodplains, seasonally-flooded grasslands, miombo woodlands and permanent swamps — and is regarded as one of Africa’s most…

My relationship with Tanzania can only be described as a love story — one that has lasted for decades, spanned all regions and withstood occasional absences. Like many such affairs, it’s difficult to know exactly when it began or what keeps it going, but it is certain that it has no sign of ending. It was 1994 when I first visited the country, making my way north to Moshi from my then-home in Mozambique. The goal was to climb Kilimanjaro, but before I even got started Tanzania felt different. By the time that short three-week trip was over, I knew that I had to come back. Was it the wildlife? Or Kili’s glaciers? Maybe the liveliness of Moshi’s streets? Tanzania’s real pulls, I soon realised, were its people, its energy…

1 NGARE NDARE FOREST Georgina Goodwin, photographer Within this lush indigenous forest on the northern foothills of Mt Kenya, hidden away, you’ll find these stunning waterfall pools, like something from Eden. On a sunny day, the colours truly pop — a photographer’s dream. I captured this frame to show the exquisite beauty and tranquillity of the forest. Guide Burcha from Sirikoi Lodge was my willing model, his Samburu dress adding the perfect splash of colour, culture and human element to the magical forest scape behind. I first visited Ngare Ndare 20 years ago; it was totally off the beaten track and hardly anyone knew about it or the amazing pools within, I had to make my way through the trees until I found the river and hoped I wasn’t too far…

DEEP IMPACT Africa’s most successful wildlife conservation projects ensure that communities benefit too. There are few places where this is more evident than in Mozambique’s Gorongosa National Park, which employs over 1800 local people. Virtually devoid of animals when philanthropist Greg Carr founded the Gorongosa Restoration Project (GRP) in 2008, the park is now home to 102,000 large mammals. The stats relating to its surrounding human populations are equally as impressive. In 2023, GRP started a pre-school programme for literacy, numeracy and languages that will eventually reach 10,000 children and began building 26 schools for 15,000 pupils, using ‘resilient architecture’ so that communities have safe havens in extreme weather disasters. It provided healthcare services to more than 200,000 people, built 18 water wells for over 7000 residents, along with 175…

Renowned among divers worldwide, the beautiful coral reefs of Zanzibar’s Mnemba Island have been struggling to survive in the face of overfishing, overtourism and climate change: as waters become warmer, the coral bleaches and dies, and the ability of this vital ecosystem to support myriad fish species diminishes. But coral can recover. Since September 2021, luxury operator &Beyond and Wild Impact (formerly the Africa Foundation) have been working with local divers and conservation rangers to grow new coral from small pieces of the reef, planting them on tables made of steel grids. Once the coral colonies are strong enough, they are returned to the reef to continue growing, with remarkable success: to date some 80 per cent of the house reef has been restored.…

BEAD WORKING If you’re heading to the Maasai Mara, try and pop in at the Beads Museum, located near Sekenani Gate. It’s a “captivating cultural oasis”, says writer Samuel Kinyanjui, that left him “with a tapestry of emotions: the vibrancy of the beadwork, the warmth of the Maasai community and the empowering spirit that filled the air had left an indelible imprint on me.” Beats of Beads is a non-profit trust established in 2022 to celebrate the rich custom of East African beads while empowering Maasai women, fostering a deep connection between tradition, artistry and community. Displays show the continuous evolution of craftsmanship and an interactive workshop allows visitors to try their hand at creating their own beadwork. That sounds like a very worthwhile opportunity to gain a deeper insight…

Driving down the road towards the palace, the normally quiet Eswatini has suddenly become a hive of colour and activity. Young Swazi women and girls stream towards the royal residence, each carrying a bundle of freshly cut reeds and all dressed in traditional attire. Clothing is minimal: short beaded skirts, rainbow-coloured scarves and not much else. The girls chant and dance their way towards the Queen Mother’s abode, the rhythmical stamping of their feet and the rattling of their anklets vibrating in the air. Who’d have thought the smallest country in the southern hemisphere would play host to one of Africa’s biggest and most spectacular cultural events? Encircled by South Africa and Mozambique, the tiny landlocked country of Eswatini — 195km north to south, 130km east to west, and with…

SOUTH AFRICA LIMPOPO | NORTH WEST | MPUMULANGA | GAUTENG | FREE STATE KWAZULU-NATAL | EASTERN CAPE | WESTERN CAPE | NORTHERN CAPE There are not many countries in the world that can boast the diverse bounty of attractions that South Africa offers: world-leading wildlife parks, an abundance of nature reserves, dramatic scenery (from mountains to deserts), expansive sandy beaches, a colourful cultural heritage (from the Cradle of Humankind to one of the world’s youngest and progressive democracies), energetic cities bursting with creativity, and a warm people who welcome you to village, outpost or metropolis. Whatever your interest, there is plenty to immerse yourself in in South Africa. And it is well served by a developed infrastructure, wide-ranging facilities and efficient service, making travel easy and fun. We’re on a…

The drive from Ai Ais to the trail head was dusty, and my friend Anna and I were each nursing a can of Coke, having consumed far too much wine and beer in our excitement the previous evening. This was not ideal preparation for a 92km hike. On top of that, a large baboon had wandered nonchalantly into our room while we were packing, robbed some of our food and left a personal present on our packing list. At least it wasn’t our map he had defecated on. No words can do justice to the jawdropping vista that lay before us when we arrived. The canyon snaked its way through the desert and into the distance. It looked and felt formidable; as if we would be stepping out into thin…

African Parks developed the Shoebill Nest Protection Programme in 2012 to ensure the protection of Bangweulu’s threatened shoebills. Community members are employed as guardians to protect the birds round the clock during peak nesting season (June-November). In May 2022 the Shoebill Captive Rearing and Rehabilitation Facility was established to boost breeding success. It’s the first of its kind in the world, with state-of-the-art incubators and brooders, designed to care for chicks at every stage of development from eggs to up to three months old. With the birds destined to be released back into the wild, habituating them is counter-productive, so the centre is off-limits to the public, though occasional guided tours can be booked only when conditions are suitable. Shoebill breeding: May: Shoebills start nesting June: Eggs appear. Most have…

1 Take the bus. Journeys are long and slow, often crowded and sometimes uncomfortable, but they offer an authentic feel for Tanzanian life. 2 Learn some basic Swahili phrases. Even just a few words will go a long way in opening doors and building bridges. 3 Stay in local guesthouses and dine Tanzanian-style, enjoying favourites such as wali na maharagwe (rice and beans), nyama choma (grilled meat) or ugali na mchuzi (pap and sauce) at streetside eateries. 4 Purposefully seek out destinations that are off the beaten track. 5 For safaris and treks, use locally-owned and locallyoperated tour companies. 6 Spend more time in one or two parks, rather than trying to fit in too much.…

How weevils are helping to save manatees In Cameroon’s Lake Ossa Wildlife Reserve, tiny weevils just two millimetres long are helping to save African manatees, giant marine mammals that weigh around 500kgs. And they’ve earned Aristide Kamla, founder and CEO of the African Marine Mammal Conservation Organisation, the 2024 Whitley Award for his pioneering work to protect African manatee habitat. “Manatees need to surface every five minutes,” Aristide explained. “Giant salvinia forms a thick carpet on top of the water that prevents the manatee from coming up to breathe.” Ravenous salvinia weevils have been introduced to feast on the invasive weed that smothers the surface of the lake. Using the bugs as a biological control and natural predator, Aristide and his team have cleared more than 70 per cent of…

It’s a fact. The world’s largest land mammal migration occurs not, as long believed, in the Serengeti ecosystem, famed for around two million wildebeest and zebras roaming the savannah, but in the little-known Boma and Badingilo National Parks in South Sudan. A recent aerial survey revealed a staggering annual migration of some six million antelope, among them whiteeared kob, Mongalla gazelle, tiang and Bohor reedbuck, all traversing the Boma Badingilo Jonglei Landscape (BBJL) and neighbouring Gambella National Park in Ethiopia. Both South Sudanese reserves are co-managed by renowned non-profit African Parks. Their conservation director and survey expert Mike Fay said: “I have been doing conservation in Africa for 45 years, and seeing these animals at such scale is something I could never have fathomed still existed. From the air, it…

SWAROVSKI AX VISIO BINOCULARS Swarovski’s high-tech binoculars are a masterclass in optical excellence. With a light transmission rate of 92 per cent, they’re sure to illuminate even the most elusive wildlife, rendering every detail with breathtaking accuracy. Better still, they come with built-in Al that can help you identify some 9000 birds and animal species at the touch of a button. You can even share your discoveries with friends or create videos or photos via Swarovski’s app. Last but not least, budding naturalists are treated to a comfortable grip for fatigue-free viewing. US$4799 / €4600 / £3820 www.swarovskioptik.com GOAL ZERO NOMAD 10 SOLAR PANEL This lightweight (1.2lb/0.5kg), foldable solar charger is perfect for keeping your devices powered during extended wildlife watching sessions. With its 10-watt output, it can charge smartphones,…

Zimbabwe When I moved to Harare from England four and a half years ago, I expected to find a city that would reflect what I had read about Zimbabwe in the headlines: an unstable and inflationary economy, drought, high unemployment. And while there are signs of all these things — power and water shortages and deteriorating roads, for example — the capital has done nothing but surprise me. The Zimbabwean attitude of “make a plan”, whatever the situation, and a booming informal sector have made for an energetic city filled with entrepreneurial spirit, from roadside vendors to commercial developments. It’s residents push on with making their way, and will happily help or host visitors; a recognition that tourism is highly appreciated here. There is plenty to do in and around…

When I first visited Malawi in 1995, Majete Wildlife Reserve ranked among the most compromised of African conservation areas. Who’d have thought, back then, that it was set to become one of the continent’s greatest postmillennial wildlife success stories? Certainly not me! Gazetted in the 1950s, for its first half-century of existence Majete was neglected by practically everyone other than poachers. Local villagers, many of whom had formerly lived inside the reserve, whittled away at its stock of antelope, both for subsistence and to sell as bushmeat (a nyala or impala might fetch enough money to support a family for a month). By 1980, commercial poachers had accounted for every last black rhino. Little more than a decade later, the ivory trade had reduced the elephant population from roughly 300…

Mafia Island Much quieter than nearby Zanzibar, Mafia offers great natural beauty as well as the chance to experience traditional Swahili culture. Southeastern Tanzania With its languid coastline, long history, strong traditional life and relative lack of visitors, southeastern Tanzania makes for a unique off-the-beaten track travel experience. Lake Tanganyika It’s hard to feel more remote than on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Get to know Kigoma, the region’s thoroughly Tanzanian hub, or relax on quiet beaches and track chimpanzees in Mahale Mountains NP.…

Rounding a corner, I spotted an exquisite small bird perched in a niche in the rock — a perfect picture opportunity. Committing an elementary error, I had left the lens cap on and in the nanosecond it took to remove it, my subject had flown. I cursed my stupidity: I had just missed photographing a pearlspotted owlet! I was in the Ennedi Massif, in the far north-east of Chad, on my second visit to the country. The first had been in 2020, when I had to be evacuated by the French military after Covid had struck and the airport closed. I never even got to spend a night in my intended destination: Zakouma National Park. So, unfinished business necessitated this return trip. This time, however, instead of just a week…

Over the last 33 years I have been working across three spheres of ecotourism: I am a co-owner of a safari company and, at times, I accompany guests as a wilderness guide. I am also a photo-journalist covering environmental, conservation and sustainability issues. For some time I have mused as to whether I was positively contributing to the conservation of the continent’s biodiveristy or merely contributing to the problem. For the most part I now accept that I can and should be part of the solution. In the grand scheme, without ecotourism, every and any other form of economic activity — from agriculture and mining to golf estates and theme parks — will compete for what’s left of our natural world. However, I also understand that poorly defined and badly…