Innholdsfortegnelse for Edition 101, August-October 2023 i Travel Africa

Drawn to Africa's wild places, I rarely spend time in her cities. But Cape Town, well that's different! I spent a few days there recently, and didn't want to leave. Bursting with creativity, energy, natural beauty, passion and fun, it simply blew me away. Here's what I loved about the Mother City – some things you'll know, some may surprise you… but you should try them on your next visit. A SIDECAR NAMED MAGGIE Dressed in 1940s leather jacket, helmet, and goggles, I couldn't stop smiling as I was driven around the city and its mesmerising coastline in a vintage sidecar called Maggie. She turned heads wherever we went, whizzing through the streets and along the spectacular Cape Peninsula. We stopped for a welcome glass of bubbly overlooking Hout Bay,…

WHAT'S IT LIKE? “The park is known as a home of elephants,” says Clay Johnson, general manager of Elewana Tarangire Treetops. “It's also a wonderful birding destination.” With wildlife encounters to rival the Serengeti, Tarangire is the perfect introduction to a Tanzanian safari. The scarcity of water from June to October drives the park's abundant wildlife towards their only water source, the Tarangire River. Herds of up to 300 elephants wander the dry riverbeds digging for water; predators and prey walk (almost) hand in hand; while giant baobabs dot the skyline. Just a two-hour drive (or a short flight) from Arusha, Tarangire is often overlooked in favour of the country's more famous parks, yet it is a worthy addition to any itinerary. The park fees are also lower: US$50 per…

“We contracted an organisation called Conservation Development Consultants (CDC) to oversee the development of the [Maasai Mara National Reserve Management] Plan. They had already developed a planning framework that was, and still is, being used in Management Plans in KWS and conservancies. It was very inclusive and, at times, involved all stakeholders in the Mara. The new County Government has approved the plan after 15 years and four updates. It has gone through all the required processes — including public participation, approval by the County Assembly and gazettement. It is now a legally binding document.” BRIAN HEATH, THE MARA CONSERVANCY, A NOT-FOR-PROFIT ORGANISATION THAT MANAGES THE MARA TRIANGLE (THE WESTERN THIRD OF THE RESERVE) “As a local camp owner, I fully support the initiative. It is a step to the…

The scrub is thick, and I keep getting caught by thorns and branches. My shoes are squelching, wet from wading through the shallow, sandy river. We head up a steep, rocky hill, trying to walk silently and not step on any fallen twigs — the telltale crack of a breaking stick will give away our presence, and that's the last thing we want right now. There's an occasional beep from the radio tracker carried by Michael Thamala, an African Parks Majete (APM) wildlife monitor, who's in the lead, closely followed by Craig Thomas from Wildlife Vet Services, which works with APM to monitor key wildlife species. Michael pauses periodically, raising the portable receiver mast higher. We appear to be heading in the right direction; the signal is getting louder and…

Researchers have long battled to classify the hyena. While it looks, runs and hunts like a dog, it has more similarities to a giant mongoose and is, in fact, more closely related to cats. Hyenas are strong, with tremendous jaw power, and are known for their resilience. Yet for centuries they have been scorned, labelled as one of the ‘Ugly Five’ and castigated for stealing kills from other predators. But there is plenty to be admired about this much-maligned animal. THE FEMALE OF THE SPECIES… In hyena hierarchy, the females are very much the leaders. These ‘tomboys’ are larger than the males and more aggressive. If a male doesn't comply, she can, and will, easily bite off its ears to impose discipline in the clan. The female hyena has developed…

“My grandfather used to walk us halfway to school. Along the way we might see a breeding herd of elephants. As a child, I was afraid of the elephants and might even cry. My grandfather would say, ‘I told you boys, we are downwind from the elephants. There is no way they can smell us! Nothing to be afraid of…’” Jolane (Jo) Matengu is explaining how the people in his village live amongst wild animals. He is from Mabele village, and is our guide at Machaba Safaris’ Ngoma Safari Lodge, overlooking the Chobe River in the Chobe Forest Reserve, on the western boundary of Chobe National Park. “From my childhood, I was always living with wild animals. That is how I decided to become a guide,” he explains. While human-wildlife…

Algeria On my first afternoon in Algiers, a schoolgirl, maybe ten years old, called out “excuse me” as she breathlessly hurried ahead of our small group tour and turned to face us. “Welcome to my country. I hope you will like Algeria,” she recited, before skipping back to join her schoolfriends. Later, in the marketplace at Martyr's Square, amid stalls heaped with caramelsweet deglet-noor dates, a full-bearded man in an ankle-length thobe shirt marched up to me and pressed coins into the hand of a vendor who was pouring me sweetened tea from a brass teapot. He insisted I put my dinar away. “You are my guest”. As I walked back to my hotel that night through Algiers’ fin-de-siecle architecture, I'd been ‘welcomed’ so many times it assuaged any concerns…

South Africa's National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI) recently issued an expression of interest to relocate Charlie, a 42-year-old African elephant bull who has languished in Pretoria's National Zoological Garden for two decades. He was originally snatched from the wilds of Hwange National Park, aged two. SANBI envisage his relocation to a reserve, and his plight hasn't escaped the attention of Zimbabwe-born elephant conservationist Brett Mitchell. Mitchell's ambitious plan is to rewild all 90 or so of South Africa's remaining captive elephants into a newly created reserve. “We want to move them into a fully wild state so they can live out their lives as nature intended,” he tells me. Mitchell started out working in elephantback safaris in Zimbabwe, but gradually changed tack and between 2015-16 he brought the elephants he'd worked…

EVER THOUGHT OF COMBINING TWO ICONIC DESTINATIONS ON THE SAME TRIP? “Africa is rich with diversity, heritage, wildlife and of course incredible landscapes and culture,” says Greg Fox, Mahlatini Luxury Travel co-founder. “In response to growing demand from our clients to travel further, Egypt was the first choice for our expansion on the African continent. A truly bucket-list experience is to combine Egypt's most famous historical sites with Africa's most magnificent wildlife on an Egypt and Kenya journey. After discovering Egypt's ancient wonders and cruising along the iconic Nile river, you can travel onward to Nairobi, where you can be driving through the Maasai Mara's infinite savannahs the very next day.”…

“During a photographic safari in the Maasai Mara, we had been watching this seemingly lone hyena for some time before realising that her cub was nearby. It was such a thrill when she emerged with her little babe and gently transported her back to the safety of their den. I often process images in black and white to portray a timeless quality, which I love. In this instance, I feel that the soft tones particularly accentuate the anomaly between the hyena's reputation as a ruthless predator and the display of tenderness evidenced in the picture. “The Mara is a rich territory for wildlife photography. I find that it helps to have a clear idea of the types of images that you want to capture, even before setting off on a…

FOLLOW THE SHIRE RIVER Take a two-day 20km hike along The Shire River Trail (JuneNovember) in Liwonde National Park. From Mvuu Camp, follow the banks of the Shire under its iconic fever trees, before turning inland towards the Mwalashi River, through mopane woodland and across the floodplains. “This trail is all about feeling and understanding how the river and the park connect, how the animals and birds rely upon and use this intricate ecosystem — and getting back to nature. It's possibly one of the most amazing experiences out there,” says Chris Badger, managing director of Central African Wilderness Safaris. “This trail is all about feeling and understanding how the river and the park connect, how the animals and birds rely upon and use this intricate ecosystem — and getting…

Mozambique The sun was setting in the west, dropping down over a beautiful little lake called Nela. Elize and I were sitting on the eastern bank thereof, under a waterberry tree which serves as a viewpoint for visitors to Lagoa Nela's 4x4 campsite. “They are getting closer to us now,” I said. A pod of hippo, at least twenty of them, were approaching us to investigate the activity on shore. Not many people stay here, and hippos are inquisitive by nature. We were excited to be back at Lagoa Nela, three years after our first visit. This time we were driving all the 4x4 routes and visiting the newly-designed campsites in the Maputo National Park. We departed Ponta Membene midmorning, where 24 chalets, a restaurant and staff village were completed…

Botswana “People talk of the sacrifice I have made in spending so much of my life in Africa. It is emphatically no sacrifice. Say rather it is a privilege.” DAVID LIVINGSTONE, CAMBRIDGE LECTURES, 1858 For me, entering the magnificent wilderness areas of northern Botswana has a profound effect. As my guide drives the sandy, potholed roads, explaining the intricacies of the ecosystem I am now a part of, I feel a deep and soul-stirring connection with nature. I am happy; simply happy to be alive. And the feeling of being extremely privileged to be part of this — if only for a few days — is overwhelming. On the wide, elevated verandah of Machaba Safaris’ Kiri Camp, in the Okavango Delta — elephants feeding in the distance, Red lechwe and…

Namibia offers a diverse and ever-changing landscape that attracts a wide variety of bird species. Habitats range from the arid Namib and Kalahari deserts in the south to the greener regions in the northeast, the area that receives the most precipitation at around 700mm annually, much more than the central and desert areas. The best time for birding in Namibia is between November and April, when migrant species are present and resident birds are in their breeding plumage. With 681 bird species found throughout the country — including 15 near-endemic and one true endemic species — it is advisable to acquire an up-to-date field guide or use birding apps to aid identification and reduce the need for carrying heavy books. To make the most of your birding safari, here are…

RUN FOR RANGERS Did you know that wildlife rangers protect 19 per cent of Africa's land and 17 per cent of its surrounding seas? Or that 89 per cent of rangers surveyed have faced a life-threatening situation? Whether your answer is ‘yes’ or ‘no’, it is clear these brave men and women deserve our support and recognition. On 16 September, the Wildlife Ranger Challenge will see more than 100 teams of rangers compete in a coordinated 21km race across their respective protected areas to raise awareness and funds. And you can join in too! Wherever you are in the world, you can take part in the Challenge virtually — running, walking, cycling (or by any means you like) in solidarity with them. TO SIGN UP, GO TO WILDLIFERANGERCHALLENGE.ORG…

“Real Women, Real Stories, Real Impact,” proclaimed the tagline for this year's World Female Ranger Week (WFRW), held on 23-30 June 2023. This sentiment was no more keenly felt than in Nigeria. In an unprecedented bid to gain approval for female rangers in Nigeria to take part, WFRW founder Holly Budge appealed to the conservator-general of the country's National Park Service. Just two days before WFRW began, he gave the green light for female rangers in all seven of Nigeria's national parks to participate. “This [was] a momentous moment and a huge step forward for female rangers in Nigeria to have their voices heard. Having patrolled with multiple ranger teams across Africa, I've seen first-hand how these bold women are impacting lives: protecting wildlife, uplifting communities and empowering other women,”…

ROCK STAR Madwaleni River Lodge is to open in September in the 200sq km Babanango Game Reserve, Zululand, South Africa. The ultra-luxury 12-tented lodge sits on the banks of the White Umfolozi River, and takes its name from the isiZulu phrase meaning ‘The place of the rock’, paying homage to the granolithic mountains found here, which boast some of the oldest geological formations on Earth, dating back 3.4 billion years. The architecture and interior of the lodge intertwine the area's myriad cultural influences with local Zulu heritage, drawing inspiration from the Zulu warrior shield. Over the past five years, Babanango has undertaken an extensive game translocation initiative, reintroducing close on 2,500 large mammal species into the area. Now, for the first time in around 150 years, lions roam its valleys…

It is hard to describe what makes Ethiopia a great place to visit. Some people are attracted by its unique wildlife, some by its remarkable landscapes, others by its rich cultural heritage. Or, more likely, all three. The Ethiopian Orthodox religion provides a splendid backdrop. Each of the 13 months in the Ethiopian calendar throws up a colourful festival for the curious visitor to enjoy. To help you time your visit around one of them, we asked the team at Ethiopian Adventures to give us a beginner's guide. Meskel 27 SEPTEMBER 2023 Although best viewed in Meskel Square in Addis Ababa, the annual festival can be enjoyed in every main town throughout the country. Meskel (‘cross’ in Amharic) revolves around the finding of the ‘true cross’ on which Jesus Christ…

Whenever we are in need of an Africa fix, we head over to www.wildearth.tv and watch one of their twice-daily live-streamed game drives… and now, UK readers can watch WildEarth on their own TVs on Channel 91 on Freeview (retune your sets now!). WildEarth call themselves ‘the largest safari vehicle in the world’ and for good reason: viewers in any country can participate in each drive, asking the guide questions in the same way you would if you were physically on the drive with them. So, you can still go on your daily game drive even if you're unable to be on safari in Africa. Glorious. The reel thing. The WildEarth TV crew, with Jigga and Wendy, filming while tracking a giraffe…

Kenya WHERE ARE WE NOW? The popularity of the Maasai Mara to today's wildlife-lover is totally understandable, and it has gained momentum steadily over many years. When Kenya became a British protectorate in 1895, it was a statement of intent as much as it was one of control. Though weakened by drought, infighting and a rinderpest epidemic in the preceding decade, the Maasai people remained largely undisturbed in their strongholds, one of which was the area around today's Maasai Mara. There was no reserve back then. Nothing, in fact, to distinguish what we now know as the Maasai Mara from the other volcanic plains that extended across Maasailand (southern Kenya and northern Tanzania) from the foot of the Great Rift Escarpment. Over the half-century that followed, the Maasai people lost…

BRANCHING OUT “Pfffftttt. Pfffftttt.” The unmistakable sound of the elephant. But, while Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve has a flourishing population of pachyderms traipsing through its miombo forest, this isn't one of them. The source of this high-pitched trumpet is our African Parks ranger Happy Banda playing the ‘elephant tree’ leaf. We are on an early-morning walk along the Bua River, which cuts through the reserve, with the jovial ranger and Clifford Chirwa, a guide from Bua River Lodge — where the previous night I had drifted off to the lulling sound of gurgling water, while being serenaded by a million-strong choir of beetles. “This is the joint tree leaf,” Happy says, holding up the foliage equivalent of Siamese twins. “Mankhwala [medicine] for joints.” But this isn't the only miracle it offers.…

Lusaka has enjoyed something of a resurgence in recent years. It's a cosmopolitan city that is far less frenetic than most African capitals, though it can be a confusing place for visitors not familiar with its busy shanty towns, high-walled suburbs, bustling markets, boxy-looking high-rise buildings and mishmash of dusty tree-lined streets. There's a steady stream of construction, and shopping malls now service the sprawling suburbs. The roads aren't quite keeping up with development, so peak hour traffic can be hectic, but there's an air of optimism here. This is a town that's on the rise. Several sites and suggestions will pop up if you Google ‘what to do in Lusaka’ — think museums and monuments — but, in my opinion, if you really want to get a feel for…

“Are you ready to have your mind blown?” asks professional guide Mitch Riley as we disembark from our safari vehicle on the escarpment above Gonarezhou National Park's Chilojo Cliffs. Before visiting Gonarezhou, I'd seen plenty of photos of Chilojo Cliffs, which tower 200m above the Runde River, so I had some idea of what to expect viewing them from the base. But the vista from the cliff edge, though less containable within a photographic frame, is even more sensational. Below giant curved buttresses of burnished sandstone, the Runde meanders through a wide sandbed to a distant western horizon, a setting so vast it reduces the mighty baobabs and elephants on the floodplain to toylike proportions. Mitch is correct. It is mind blowing — probably the most spectacular view in Zimbabwe…

Botswana A sweeping panoramic view of the Chobe River floodplains reveals an abundance of wild animals. The number, density and variety of species is staggering: giraffe, buffalo, elephant, waterbuck, lechwe, impala, zebra, warthog, hippo, crocodile… The boat skirts Skimmer Island, so named because great numbers of the resplendent African skimmer bird are resident here. They call to one another, take wing and fly inches over the deep blue water, their lower beaks skimming the surface, to catch fish. A breeding herd of elephants moves towards us, first to taste the lush grass on Skimmer Island, then to play in the water before swimming across this shallow section of the river to another island to feed. From the boat, they feel virtually on top of us, their proximity at times intimidating.…

Africa has huge global significance: it accounts for one fifth of all land on Earth and is home to a quarter of the world's mammal species and a fifth of its bird species. One sixth of all plant species are endemic to the continent. And crucially, one sixth of the world's remaining forests are found here — the Congo Basin rainforest alone absorbs 4 per cent of all the world's carbon emissions annually, benefitting the entire planet*. Protecting Africa's vital wild habitats should be a global responsibility. Here's a sample of the international bodies doing great work across the continent. Frankfurt Zoological Society WWW.FZS.ORG A German organisation working in 18 countries to preserve wilderness and protected areas. In Zambia and Zimbabwe, in collaboration with the respective governments, FZS have restored…

Conservation PRE-ORDER YOUR COPY Remembering Leopards at bit.ly/remleo Cheetah Conservation Botswana Mitigating conflicts between rural communities and the country's abundant cheetah population (80 percent of which live outside protected areas) is the goal of Cheetah Conservation Botswana, with RW donations assisting CCB's research programme in the Western Kalahari, gathering detailed data through camera-traps and satellite collars. Carnivore Programme The Luangwa Valley is one of Africa's most important big cat strongholds. RW donations fund the programme's antisnaring work, helping combat the trafficking of lions as well as training future Zambian conservationists and supporting outreach projects in local communities. SORALO, Kenya Aimed at fostering the peaceful coexistence of human and wildlife populations, SORALO works alongside the local Maasai in Kenya's South Rift Valley, home to one of the densest lion populations of…

What is ATTA? The African Travel and Tourism Association (ATTA) is a powerful network of global travel trade professionals that promote tourism to Africa, established for nearly thirty years. Who are your members? Our membership comprises tour operator buyers and travel retailers from every corner of the world, alongside product suppliers from African safari lodges to hotels and airlines. It also has key members of the media, tourism boards and charity partners, all of whom come together to develop their business and network. How does it work? ATTA operates a commercial model akin to a ‘mutual’, whereby operating profit is reinvested back into the membership and thus the sustainable growth of African tourism. It is a powerful membership network and its events platforms have enjoyed a presence around the world,…