Innholdsfortegnelse for Edition 100, May-July 2023 i Travel Africa

One day in mid-1997 there was a knock on the door of my aunt and uncle's house in Oxfordshire. Responding to a promotional flyer, a retired doctor had driven 20 miles to subscribe to our as-yet-unpublished magazine. It was an early indication of the ardor for Africa that has been shared by readers since. Mike (the doctor) and his wife came to see us regularly at various travel shows over the following years, where we also met many more of our readers, a lot of whom we remain in regular contact with. A deep passion for the continent binds us. We all know what dawn in the bush smells like and what it means to miss the smell of the rain; we appreciate that deep sense of quiet contentment you…

Tony Proud UK Times visited: 22 Country count: 12 Next up? Kenya and Tanzania in September. I keep returning to: Kenya. Place I'd most like to go? Rwanda. 'Big Five' or 'Little Five? Definitely 'Big Five'. Guided or self-drive? Guided; but have done both. Direct or through an operator? Flights direct, but camps through a trusted operator. I miss… The smell, the sounds, the landscape, the warmth of the sun, the people and the incredible wildlife. I go back because… Africa is in my blood. I am lost without my safari; I live for it. It is my passion. Best thing a guide ever said to me: "Keep perfectly still." Biggest mistake? Taking the road from Nairobi to the Maasai Mara — it's a bumpy, rough ride. My advice for…

Do: ✓ Camp in a designated site ✓ Keep noise levels down, especially at night ✓ Manage your campfire and make sure it is completely out before you go to bed ✓ Use the refuse bins provided ✓ Recycle what cannot be used ✓ Buy firewood on route where possible ✓ Remember it can get cold at night, so wrap up ✓ Always carry a few rolls of toilet paper ✓ Camping practices that are respectful to the animals and the environment are a must Don't: ✗ Don't leave anything around your tent that can be picked up by animals ✗ Don't keep food in your tent ✗ Don't leave your shoes outside USEFUL RESOURCES: FACEBOOK GROUPS 'CAMPING IN NAMIBIA' AND 'DRIVE NAM'.…

Permit cost: Currently, DRC sets you back US$400; Uganda US$700 and Rwanda US$1500 per person. Accessibility: Rwanda's Volcanoes NP is easier to get to than DRC or Uganda. It is a two-to three-hours' drive from Kigali; Uganda's Bwindi is about nine hours from Entebbe, while DRC's Virunga has its own challenges. Having said that, Uganda has more habituated groups, enabling more people to visit. Length of trek: Not much difference here: in all three, you can opt for a shorter or longer trek depending on your fitness and where the gorillas are. Allow anything from 30 minutes to six hours. Uganda has thicker jungle and steeper slopes to cope with than the others. When to go: It's possible to see the gorillas year-round, but the dry seasons of June to…

WILBERFORCE OKEKA GOVERNMENT GUIDE, KAKAMEGA FOREST, KENYA There is nothing Wilberforce doesn't know about the forest. He has even lectured in Japan and Germany. He lives in a wooden hut with his wife and family, with no electricity or running water. I hope when I visit him next year that will have changed. Graham Everett, UK WISEMAN MANGANYI PAFURI CAMP, KRUGER NATIONAL PARK, SOUTH AFRICA. Wiseman's knowledge of birds, in particular, is exceptional. He is such a cool character. Jane Brewer, UK JACKSON AND GERALD PORINI LION CAMP, OLARE MOTOROGI CONSERVANCY, MAASAI MARA They offered a friendly, engaging and exhilarating experience — unforgettable! Ann Hilton, UK PIERRE BURTON FREELANCE GUIDE, KENYA From hundreds of metres away, Pierre pointed to the horizon… and there was a lion's head, way in the…

With vast expanses of habitat ranging from sweeping savannahs and verdant rainforests to lush wetlands and arid deserts, all home to exceptional fauna and flora, Africa is one of the most biodiverse continents on Earth. But with its human population predicted to double to 2.5 billion by 2050, the need to conserve these wild places is now more vital than ever. Huge global NGOs are active throughout Africa, among them WWF, Wildlife Conservation Society, International Fund for Animal Welfare and The Nature Conservancy. Equally as important to the conservation landscape are far smaller non-profits and organisations dedicated to simply protecting individual reserves, including Zambia's Conservation Lower Zambezi, Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya, The Gorongosa Project in Mozambique and The Malilangwe Trust in Zimbabwe. In between the big names and the…

Conversation Every safari should have a positive, sustainable impact on everyone involved. This was brought into sharp perspective by the Covid-19 pandemic and the incalculable effect the global travel bans had on the people who live in and around the wilderness areas we love so much. So, it's always good to understand how you can give back, both while on safari and once you're home, and what opportunities there are to do so in a measured, ethical, sensitive and sustainable way. Whether you see it or not, your safari makes a positive impact on the lives of people in some of the most far-flung rural areas on the continent, providing jobs, empowering communities and building microeconomies. It's how we measure that difference that has changed, along with our awareness of…

Reflections and connections If you kept a journal, revisit it often and even enhance it once you're home with an epilogue written with the gift of hindsight. Every day, jot down a memory of something special from your trip — perhaps a lioness nurturing cubs, sundowners in the company of elephants, the maze of stars at night… Take time to reflect: what did you absolutely love; what fascinated you or bored you; what would you do differently? While it's fresh in the mind, write notes as reminders for future trips. Give feedback to your tour operator — about their service and advice, the parks you visited, the places you stayed and the people who worked there. Africa always leaves you wanting more, and this is the ideal way to build…

In 1997 the internet was in its infancy and people still gathered most of their travel ideas and advice from newspapers and magazines. On the newsstand in the UK at the time, there were four travel magazines (all still going today) and thirteen on model railways! The only real coverage Africa garnered was on the news, and that was almost exclusively negative. So we decided to launch Travel Africa in an attempt to reassure people that the continent was safer than they might think, and to showcase its diverse natural and cultural heritage. The Africa being portrayed in the media in the UK at that time was not the Africa we knew and loved. With a concept shaped over many family chats, we rustled up the courage and enough money…

In southern Africa, an ‘indaba’ is a get-together or meeting, usually to discuss an important issue of the day. In the pages that follow, we are gathering you all around the campfire to share your reflections on what Africa means to you, your safari adventures and your favourite places. You’re an interesting group. It makes for a fun conversation. Wild dogs in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe, photographed by Fiona Seward: “Late one afternoon we were watching these dogs resting. After a short while, they started their prehunt ritual, dancing, playing and sneezing before heading off. A wonderful 20 minutes which will stay with me for life. My love for Mana Pools knows no bounds.”…

1 First up, find a good, fully-equipped, reliable vehicle — Foley’s (www.foleysv.com) has a few already prepared for overlanding for sale. 2 It costs about £4,000 to ship a vehicle to Africa from the UK (less if you can share a container). 3 You will need a Carnet de Passages, which allows you to take your vehicle into all countries without paying import tax. 4 You cannot leave a vehicle in any country in the Southern African Development Community area for more than a year at a time. 5 There are plenty of places across southern Africa that store vehicles, which costs about US$80 a month. They will start the car frequently, and take you to and from the airport. 6 Insure your vehicle for travelling in Africa — I…

You’re well-travelled safarigoers, always with an eye on the next adventure. With so much to explore across the vast continent, it was no surprise that when we asked you for your bucket list destinations, it was an exciting mix of renowned and off-thebeaten track parks. Wildlife is clearly a strong motivation, but you’re also drawn to dramatic landscapes, where you can get away from the crowds and immerse yourself in nature. Here’s your collective wishlist. LAKE KARIBA Renowned for its spectacular sunsets, serene beauty, wildlife-rich shorelines and superb fishing, Lake Kariba is a prime bucket-lister. The best way to enjoy the trappings of this manmade phenomenon is on a houseboat, the ideal mobile home well suited for groups. BIRDING, SENEGAL Senegal is home to 560 species of bird, with Sahel…

When getting your visa, check its validity (usually three months or less) and when it becomes valid — the date of issue or the date of arrival? Check if it is a single entry or allows multiple entries. If you've only ever stayed in lodges, book a mobile tented safari. It's a completely different experience — less 'luxurious', but SO much more Read about the places you are going. Knowing its history will help you understand better the people who live there. When choosing your holiday, ensure that the community and environment at your destination directly benefits from your visit. Covid-19 had a devastating impact on communities that depend on tourism; your visit makes a positive impact. Check vaccination requirements for the country you are travelling to. Some require you…

Your safari journey Where? South Africa is a great base. Overnight flights and minimal time difference with the UK means kids can leave school on Friday afternoon and be driving through the African bush by Saturday lunchtime. Lodges here currently offer good value for money — they are costed in SA Rand whereas camps elsewhere are usually dollar-based. It is also the only African country that can offer a fully malaria-free experience. Try Madikwe, the Waterberg or Nambiti. No other jabs are needed. How old? To enjoy game drives safely and get the most out of spotting animals in the wild, kids need to be able to follow simple instructions, understanding the need to sit down, stay quiet, keep hands inside the vehicle, etc. Drives are usually two-to-three hours long,…

You’ll find the answers on page 159 Part 2 Q1: How many species of bats are there worldwide? 1. 300 2. 450 3. 1200 4. 2000 Q2: What are baby bats called? 1. Cubs 2. Pups 3. Infant 4. Doll Q3: Which animal class does a tortoise belong to? 1. Mammals 2. Arthropods 3. Reptiles 4. Amphibians Q4: Why should one not pick up tortoise? 1. Because a tortoise often urinates in fear, losing all the water it saved during dry season to carry it over to the next rainy season. 2. Because they will detach from their shell. 3. Because they bite 4. All the above Q5: What is an invertebrate? 1. An animal that lacks a backbone 2. A mammal 3. Two-legged animal 4. All the above Q6: Reptiles are known as ectothermic. What does it mean? 1. Cold-blooded 2. Scaly 3. Slimy 4. Have no…

INTERIOR DÉCOR Many shops offer a range of African homeware, from soft furnishings to furniture. Training local women to be artisans, Katundu (katundu.com), on Likoma Island in Lake Malawi, sells beautiful lighting and wall decor, textiles and tables all made with recycled materials from tumbled glass to old bicycles and boat wood. Lalibella (lalibella.co.uk) supports educational projects in Ethiopia through its online store, working with designers and artisans from across Africa. And Etikora (etikora.com) sells goods from the Kingdom of Eswatini and Kenya, all sustainably sourced and made with local materials. A splash of colour Seeking a quintessential African look? Try wax print, suggests Robert Irwin African wax print fabric is a defining metaphor of African design, fashion and expression: Its bold designs and colours just say "Africa". But is…

African Saga by Mirella Ricciardi African Rainbow by Mirella Riccciardi Vanishing Africa by Mirella Riccciardi An African Love Story by Daphne Sheldrick Horn of the Hunter by Robert Ruark On Leopard Rock by Wilbur Smith The Trouble with Africa by Vic Guhrs We Need New Names by No Violet Bulawayo Nervous Conditions by Tsitsi Dangarembga An Elegy for Easterly by Petina Gappah Congo journey by Redmond O'Hanlon Back to the bush by James Hendry My life with leopards by Fransje van Riel Wilderness dreaming by Greg du Toit Don't look behind you!: True tales of a "safari guide by Peter Allison Whatever you do, don’t run: True tales of a Botswana safari guide by Peter Allison All the way home by Bookey Peek Sense Africa five ways by Jenny Bowen…

The answers How did you get on with our quiz, on page 124? Check your answers here. 1 (3) 1200 2 (2) Pups 3 (3) Reptiles 4 (1) Because a tortoise often urinates in fear 5 (1) An animal that lacks a backbone 6 (1) Cold-blooded 7 (1) True 8 (1) True 9 (4) Antarctica 10 (1) 200g 11 (3) Bright red pads on her rump 12 (2) Northern moss frog 13 (3) Bone and cartilage 14 (2) Their strength 15 (1) True STOCK UP Never miss an issue… Subscribe or buy back issues at travelafricamag.com…

ISSUE 1 ⋆ SUMMER 1997 Opened with Brian Jackman’s ‘The attraction of Africa’ — a masterpiece that stands the test of time. Parting Shot was created on print day because a story didn’t come in on time; it has stayed ever since. ISSUE 4 ⋆ SUMMER 1998 “Is that the image of Africa you should be portraying?” The question, asked by a student at a travel show, sparked a discussion about cultural tourism and reminds us to this day of our responsibility: the decisions we make on content influences how people view Africa. ISSUE 10 ⋆ WINTER 1999 Around this time, we started receiving digital images and we learned that one of the pictures used in this issue was a wellPhotoshopped merger of two photos. We have been particularly careful…

IN THE WEE HOURS In 1994, there were just five of us in a Unimog (an extreme off-road truck) on an adventurous camping trip from Johannesburg into Botswana and Zimbabwe. After the Makgadikgadi Pans, the Okavango Delta and Moremi, we came to Savuti Campsite in Chobe National Park, which was renowned for elephants stealing water from the showers and for having lots and lots of hyenas. The smell of cooking attracted several hyenas, who wandered uncomfortably close to us sitting around the fire. Our guides made it very clear that under no circumstances were we to go to the ablutions block after dark; empty bottles and bowls were suggested for emergencies. We all survived the night — although a washing-up bowl didn't, and the braai grid was found in the…

“I’ve long had my eyes on a visit to Equatorial Guinea, but the Embassy in DC requires a ‘travel authorisation from the Ministry of National Security’. Nobody has been able to explain to me the process of applying for or obtaining such authorisation, so any help you can provide would be most welcome.” Oscar Scafidi, author of the 'Bradt Guide to Equatorial Guinea', responds: Equatorial Guinea is one of the least visited countries in the world. This is not surprising given their visa policy, which only allows visa-free access to nine nations (mainly CEMAC countries plus US citizens, thanks to links between the two countries' oil industries, going back decades). The latest World Bank data suggests the country received only 6,000 tourism visitors in the year before the Covid-19 pandemic…

“I would like to explore the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe, but at present it is hard to find a company who covers this region. I usually plan a mix of independent travel and a tour, but am not sure how to do this.” Liz Mattock, Australia The rolling hills and lush vegetation of Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands district — pine forests fed by perennial streams and punctuated with fynbos and waterfalls — have earned it the nickname the ‘Switzerland of Zimbabwe’, and it’s where we holiday when we want to stay local but feel like we’ve travelled very far away! With something for every type of traveller, from the mountainclimbing adrenaline junkie to the sundowner-sipping couch potato, the Eastern Highlands incorporates three districts covering a distance of about 300km: the Chimanimani Mountains,…

The waiting game ADAM STEPHEN MESHALLU PROUD AFRICAN SAFARIS, TANZANIA The plan for our 12-day trip was to track big cats as we followed the wildebeest migration through the Serengeti Plains. Adam's patience rewarded us with exquisite sightings: cheetah cubs sharing in a kill; lion cubs falling over one another in play; lions fighting over a kill, to name a few. Adam worked with Lemala Camps to pack three meals a day for us, enabling us to safari for 12 hours at a time. On our final morning, we loaded our bags into the jeep and we kept vigil. Finally, in the last hour before we had to catch our flight, the wildebeest crossed. Exhilarating! MARIA AND JOHN SUTHERLAND, USA Mane man SAM MUKAKULWA (INSET) TIME+TIDE SAFARIS, ZAMBIA In Lower…

Plan: Before you leave for Africa, make a note of what you might want or need, so you can keep an eye out for it on your travels. This will help you to shop with a conscience as well as with a purpose. Act: On safari, when you see something you like, buy it — you may not come across it again, as products vary between lodge, market and location. Markets: Ask to be taken to local markets, which often offer a treasure trove of products. Be prepared to spend hours there! Roadside stalls: Stop on the side of the road to browse small stall holders — you might find something surprising there. Store shipping: Ask the store or gallery if they can ship your purchase home for you if…