Innholdsfortegnelse for Edition 96 i Travel Africa

Having not travelled anywhere for a couple of years, we were understandably excited with the anticipation of visiting family again, in Zimbabwe. But as our February departure loomed, we were surprised how anxious we became. Not only were we concerned about the additional Covid-related protocols in place at the time, but it seemed somewhat strange to be readying ourselves for a long overseas flight and all that goes with it. How easy it all used to be, and yet now it was an intimidating prospect. We needn’t have worried. As soon as we were on our way, it all become reassuringly familiar. In fact, was it just the adrenaline, or did the airport staff, cabin crew and immigration officials all seem more enthusiastic than I remembered? Perhaps they missed us…

<SHELF ESTEEM> THE SAVIOUR FISH: LIFE AND DEATH ON AFRICA’S GREATEST LAKE BY MARK WESTON (EARTH BOOKS) The third African book by acclaimed writer Mark Weston, The Saviour Fish tells the compelling story of the author’s two years living on the remote island of Ukerewe on Lake Victoria. Combining travelogue, ethnography and environmental reportage, the book’s immersive portrait of local life on the waters of Africa’s greatest lake features an engaging cast of characters and their daily struggles to survive in one of Tanzania’s poorest backwaters: impoverished fisherman Hasani, dodging government patrol boats in order to eke a living out of the lake; disillusioned house painter Joshua, dreaming of the bright lights of Dar es Salaam; and Australia-returned “Christian entrepreneur” Mabiba, patron of the local branch of the evangelical Winner’s…

There has rarely been a better time to invest in a part of Africa that you can then call home — and through which you can make a real contribution to the protection of wildlife and the fragile nature that is so valuable. Covid-19 has given us a greater appreciation of the value of space and being in nature, and how important our living environment is. Have you ever wanted to participate in conservation, get involved in protecting endangered wildlife such as rhinoceros and wild dogs, and support research into how to conserve them? If the answer is yes: imagine acquiring a co-ownership in a private reserve in the remote and beautiful Tuli Block in Botswana, near the border with South Africa, a precious habitat that you as a co-owner…

Namibia is not your typical safari destination. It offers scenery and wildlife unlike anywhere else. It boasts huge red dunes, the second-largest canyon in the world, 60 per cent of southern Africa’s cheetah population and an array of endemic desert-adapted animals, to name a few. “The key to Namibia is its diversity,” says David Cartwright of ATI Holidays. “If you just want a game safari, Namibia may not be your first choice. But if you want wildlife, space and the freedom to do things yourself, that is the real advantage of Namibia.” WHAT DO YOU WANT TO SEE? “What do you want to experience?” asks Cartwright. “Is it desert? Open space? The big skies? Do you want to focus on looking for desert elephants? Or is it culture that interests…

WHERE TO GO What type of traveller are you? Do you like wildlife, solitude, culture or, perhaps you are an activity enthusiast? Maybe you favour a bit of everything? Whatever your tipple, Namibia can provide it all and more, along with desolate desert scenery, spectacular coastline, rocky mountains, giant red dunes, steep canyons, dark-sky reserves, rock paintings, easy-to-see wildlife and even sandboarding, to name but a few… Lizzie Williams is here to help to narrow down the highlights No trip to Namibia is complete without several days in Etosha National Park, one of the great African reserves. You can’t fail to be impressed by the sheer number of lions seen relaxing in the hot sun, dusty white elephants that walk down the gravel roads in front of you and black…

I stood on the road, arms outstretched, as the Atlantic breeze blew across my face. It felt as if the shackles of Covid confinement had fallen away. I threw my head back and whooped. The relief of being in the middle of nowhere was overwhelming. With the easing of lockdown, Namibia was always going to be my first port of call. I had been craving the feeling of being unfettered, to experience space, to be alone. The sense of freedom was huge. I hadn’t seen another car for two hours, which made me smile. Nor had I spoken to anyone for five hours. I love travelling by myself. To begin with, it was quite daunting, but once I was out of Windhoek, driving on those dirt roads, it took me…

PANTHER MEDIA GMBH / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO With year-round clear blue skies and warm sunshine, Namibia is an ideal place to go hot air ballooning. An early morning, one-hour trip over the dunes at Sossusvlei to see the first rays of dawn bathe the vast desert in incredible light is a favourite with many. Whether it’s a casual 30-minute paddle or a fully fledged expedition, a canoe trip on one of Namibia’s perennial rivers is great fun, as well as offering a different perspective on the landscape; one of the most popular paddles is a four-or five-day trip along the Orange River. Sea kayaking is available on the Walvis Bay Lagoon and is ideal for birdwatching and getting up close to seals and dolphins. Several lodges and guest farms offer…

Like Swakopmund and Lüderitz, Namibia’s capital also possesses a colonial influence. The German settlement of Windhoek spreads out over a series of picturesque valleys in the central highlands, with the Auas mountains to the southeast, Eros mountains to the northeast and the hills of the Khomas Hochland rolling away to the west. The city developed around the Alte Feste (the Old Fort), which has looked over the area since 1892 as the headquarters of the first Schutztruppe (protection troop) to arrive in Namibia and is Windhoek’s oldest building. It’s an impressive sight, shimmering in the sunlight on top of the hill. Today Windhoek has all the trappings of a modern African city, and the most obvious way to explore is on foot. A full day will allow visitors to appreciate…

Building on its Long Run initiative, which advocated the ‘Four Cs’ approach to tourism — Conservation, Community, Culture and Commerce — Wolwedans, a collection of camps in the NamibRand Nature Reserve, has added a fifth C: Consciousness. With his AridEden project, Stephan Bruckner, Wolwedans’ owner, believes the strategy could redefine travel. “We want to shift from passive consumption to active participation, and seek a balance of head, hand and heart.” he says. Lisa Scriven, a consultant on the project, adds: “It’s about reflecting on what tourism means. Who does it impact? Who does it work for? How does it all happen? That’s the big shift — to being more mindful.” NamibRand offers, in many ways, the essence of the Namibian experience. “It has one of the most spectacular landscapes in…

Snug in my tent in the northern Serengeti, I listened to the strange pulsing cries of a swamp nightjar in the surrounding trees. Later, when the bird had fallen silent and dawn light seeped through the canvas, a lion began to roar not far off, and I jumped out of bed to look for him. I found him soon after, sprawled at full length on a granite kopje, golden mane on fire in the morning sun. But what I remember most about that encounter was the Serengeti Sanctus that preceded it. So often, back home again after a long sojourn in the bush, it was not just the scenic beauty and spectacular wildlife dramas that I played and re-played in my mind. It was the African soundtrack I missed most…

Once upon a time the salt flats of the Makgadikgadi were inundated by water, an enormous prehistoric super-lake created when an uplift of the land surface broke the flow of a mighty river — a combination of today’s Upper Zambezi, Kwando, Okavango and Cubango — causing its waters to back-fill over most of central northern Botswana (and resulting in the formation of the Okavango Delta to the north). Over millions of years, this vast lake shrank, creating a series of pans that eventually dried out, turning the lakebed into a cracked ivory biscuit beneath an intensifying sun. Today, dust swirls into the sky when winds sweep across the parched plains. I can feel them drying out my lips too as we quad bike across the great salty expanse. But come…

You should have been here two months ago,” says Angel, standing on the deck, as I gawp at the view. “It was wildebeest, wildebeest, wildebeest, as far as you could see.” She sweeps her hand with a flourish across the panorama; a fitting stage-set for the celebrated great migration. “Now, they’re all gone.” I drop my bag and try to take it in. My gaze tracks past the foreground waterhole, down the acacia-studded hillside, over a snaking watercourse and out onto the vast golden plain beyond. Sculpted kopjes sail the distant horizon like stragglers from the Spanish Armada. The sheer scale is hard to process: it’s the Serengeti as you’d always dreamed it. My host is right, though: there’s not a wildebeest to be seen. Angel Namshali is the irrepressible…

SHELDRICKWILDLIFETRUST.ORG SAVING HABITATS 2 million acres (8094sq km) protected and conserved by the Trust and its partners ECO LODGES 6 eco lodges – the revenue they generate supports conservation WATER FOR WILDLIFE 32 boreholes drilled and maintained in the Tsavo Conservation Area WHAT’S IN THE NAME? Daphne Sheldrick established the trust 45 years ago following the passing of her husband David, a renowned naturalist and founding warden of Tsavo East National Park. Best known for its Orphans’ Project, the Trust is one of Africa’s oldest wildlife charities and a leading conservation organisation. WHAT DOES IT DO? The Trust helps to protect threatened and endangered species and ecosystems across Kenya. Its projects include rescuing and hand-rearing elephant and rhino orphans, along with other species, so they can ultimately enjoy life back…

<DREAM PLACES TO STAY> New Luangwa options Sungani Lodge and Kulandila Camp (pictured) are two family-owned and-operated properties in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park. The facilities are the most southerly in the park, with locations overlooking a lagoon and the Luangwa River. OHORONGO OPENINGS Two new camps have opened in the Ohorongo Private Reserve, a 35,000-hectare wilderness between Etosha National Park and Swakopmund. Set in a converted homestead, the rustic Ohorongo Safari Lodge provides a selection of ensuite thatchand-tile chalets, while on the western side of the reserve is the Ohorongo Tented Camp, with five stylish tented suites nestled amidst a dramatically rocky landscape of granite boulders and sweeping desert views. A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT Opening in June, African Bush Camps’ new Lolebezi Lodge promises “lighton-earth luxury” in…

<BUCKET LIST PLACES> Why visit? • A genuine taste of authentic Africa: wild, unspoilt and still relatively tourist-free.• Hundreds of miles of stunning, pristine beaches.• World-class whale watching (July–Oct) and diving.• Fascinating glimpses into Portuguese colonial history. • Superb cuisine featuring a unique blend of African, Arab and Portuguese elements, from peri-peri prawns to feijoada beef-and-bean stew.• Good value for money compared to more established destinations. Highlights Maputo Mozambique’s vibrant capital offers an enjoyable mix of colonial architecture, bustling markets and lively beach life, plus some of the country’s best places to eat. Gorongosa National Park One of Africa’s great conservation success stories, Gorongosa was devastated by civil war but has now recovered much of its former glory, with a diverse array of wildlife and stunning landscapes of rainforest, floodplain and…

<INSPIRATIONAL INITIATIVE> CALLING CULTURE VULTURES Those interested in African culture will be keen to check out the Africa Online Museum, recently launched at www.africaonlinemuseum.org. The pandemic gave Africa aficionados Carol Beckwith and Angela Fisher time to look through their 50-year archive of photographs and learnings and think about how they could make it more accessible. This remarkable digital portal — created in partnership with the University of Wurzberg (Germany) and Afro Project e.V. — was the result, allowing you to delve into the traditional rituals and ceremonies of Africa, from the Berbers of Morocco in the north to the Swazi Royal Kingdom in the south, and from the Bassari initiations in Senegal in the west to the weddings of Somali nomads in the east. In all, you can visit 23…

<ARMCHAIR TRAVEL> LET THERE BE LIGHT BY AMELIA DUGGAN If my first week set me up with an impression of pristine landscapes and a sense of a country emerging lighter and more hopeful from a weighty past, then it’s down at the lakeshore that I come face to face with the energy of modern Malawi. The annual Lake of Stars Festival is back after a hiatus, and down on the beach I’m dancing barefoot to live bands among a mix of fashionable urbanites from Blantyre and Lilongwe, local beach bums and aid workers on furlough. “This is the biggest party anywhere in Africa right now!” the lead singer of a Kenyan boy band yells to a crowd of thousands. Behind the main stage, upstaging all the acts, Lake Malawi stretches…

Could Namibia be Africa’s most beguiling destination? A country that offers longer vistas, a greater sense of space, more intriguing flora and fauna and a stronger sense of adventure than others? Its allure is undeniable, enticing travellers back repeatedly. Yet the sheer scale and emptiness that draws people also poses a logistical challenge. How do you choose what to include in your itinerary and how best to link them in the time available? Where should you stay and when is best to visit? We hope our 27-page overview will set you off on the right track……

Let’s not beat about the bush. If you are camping on a self-drive safari, it won’t be a holiday — rather an experience. It will be tiring, sometimes uncomfortable and even grubby. But once you accept that, the really good stuff reveals itself — and it will change the way you travel forever. (By the way, if discomfort and dirt concern you, don’t worry: there are many variations of the self-drive journey. You just need to find the right version for you.) TO CAMP OR NOT TO CAMP Driving from lodge to lodge with no camping works but, in my opinion, the most memorable journeys happen when you are more self-sufficient. My preference is to camp in the most beautiful and tranquil parts of the country, but stay in lodges…

LION Ordinarily, a lion’s range rarely exceeds 80sq km, but it is thought a desert lion’s territory could exceed 20,000sq km. The desert-adapted lion, who number less than 150, has evolved to survive in these harsh conditions and, as such, requires very little water — grabbing most of what they need from their prey, such as ostrich, gemsbok and even seals. ELEPHANT Namibia’s 150 or so desert elephants look leaner and taller than their bush-dwelling cousins. Longer trunks enable them to dig deeper into the sand in search of water, while their larger feet allow them to ‘glide’ across the sand. Unlike the Etosha herds who can gulp up to 200 litres a day, the desert elephant can go three or four days between drinks. RHINO A longer and thinner…

The coastal towns of Swakopmund and Lüderitz have historical German connections. Both are delightful in their own right, with old-world colonial architecture and a relaxed feel. Swakopmund boasts long, sandy beaches, traditional German bakeries and restaurants — sausage lovers won’t be disappointed. An ideal base for your coastal adventures, Swakop is also an activity enthusiast’s heaven. Just up the road, Walvis Bay, which marks the start of the Namib Desert, houses prime wetlands renowned for large concentrations of flamingo, waders and shorebirds. In Lüderitz, visit the towering Felsenkirche (Rock Church) and the iconic Goerke Haus (German mansion); activities include dolphin-watching and walking through the deserted sand-encroached buildings in the nearby diamond-mining ghost town of Kolmanskop. The Cape Cross Seal Reserve, near Henties Bay, is one of the largest Cape fur…

Before travelling to Namibia, if someone had told my acrophobic self that I would dangle in a basket from a piece of fabric powered by a Bunsen burner, I would have laughed in their face. But a hot air balloon ride is, frankly, the best thing I have ever done. It’s so gentle, you don’t feel you are moving. The tranquillity, combined with this sensation of standing still, meant my fears soon evaporated. Admittedly, the skill and authority of John, our pilot, also helped. I gasped at the vast, fairy circle-littered valley beneath me as John rotated the balloon slowly so that we could take in the area’s full majesty. Behind me, fabulous views of the dunes dominated the skyline. I could see for miles… even to the sea, some…

Namibia was the first nation in Africa to include the protection of the environment into its constitution. As a result, almost half of the country is now under conservation management. In the mid-1990s, the Namibian government set up its joint-venture conservancy model — between communities and the private sector — to drive tourism and economic development. The formation of such conservancies empowers communities in remote areas to manage and benefit from their natural resources. One such example is Etendeka Mountain Camp in the foothills of the Grootberg massif in the Kunene Region. Ten years ago, Entendeka — which means ‘the hills on top each other’ — entered a 20-year joint venture with the Omatendeka and Anabeb Conservancies for the continued lease of the 400sq km concession, an agreement that sees…

For the environmentally-aware traveller Namibia is a dream destination, with a wide range of accommodation, safari companies and activity providers offering impeccable eco-credentials. Finding eco-friendly properties in rural areas is easy, whether camping or staying in a lodge. In Namibia, the term ‘lodge’ covers a multitude of structures and design styles, encompassing everything from small, tented camps to larger, more substantial structures. If an owner-run property appeals, consider staying on a guest farm. Found on working farms, the owner will both host you and introduce you to their way of life. Most of Namibia’s tourist attractions are far from towns and are often off the national grid. Consequently, properties must self-generate their electricity, while water comes from a borehole or, in exceptional cases, a river. Most establishments have moved to…

KEY: NOTE: This key is based on current lowest rates offered per person per night at time of going to print. Prices are subject to change; properties often have special offers available. Use this only as a rough guide, and check rates at time of booking. On the Zimbabwe side Here, you have plenty of options in Victoria Falls town, where you’ll be close to the falls, restaurants, bars, shops and activities. For those who prefer a bit more peace and quiet – or perhaps some wildlife – head out of town or into the Zambezi National Park for a genuine safari experience within up to an hour’s drive of the falls. Most facilities offer shuttle buses or can arrange a taxi for you. VICTORIA FALLS TOWNI 1 Ilala Lodge $…

At the top of a massive conglomerate of sandstone boulders, rising from the scrubby Sahara desert at a site called Dabous, are two immense life-sized giraffes — a large male and a smaller female — the distinctive markings on their hides exquisitely and deeply incised into the rock by ancient artists’ hands. These are Niger’s flagship rock art treasures, dating back some 6000 to 8000 years, and seen by few except their creators and the wandering Tuareg, but nevertheless accessible if you know with whom to travel. Niger was not my intended destination. I had wanted to go to Egypt, to the Cave of Swimmers featured in the film The English Patient. I contacted Nairobi-based David Coulson, founder of TARA (Trust for African Rock Art). He wasn’t going to Egypt,…

LIFE CALM WITHIN THE STORM BY RAQUEL WIKER “Over two short weeks, I changed how I looked at the animals and their backgrounds – trying to see the entire picture. Towards the end of our trip, we decided to wait for a wildebeest river crossing. After sitting in one spot for a few hours, with the perfect vantage point, something spooked the herd and they changed direction, moving to a different place at which to cross. Our guide Charles rushed us to the new location, manoeuvering through the other expectant vehicles until we had the perfect view once more. It was nerve-wracking watching the wildebeest cross, fighting for their lives as they tried to avoid the waiting crocodiles. It was complete chaos. But, at the water’s edge, a group of…

Tasked with fetching water every morning as a young girl, Nancy Githaiga learnt that access to water shapes women’s lives as providers of sustenance. Growing up in Kaheho, roughly 200km from Nairobi, she vowed to improve water infrastructure for her village and others across the country. WOMEN AND WATER In Kaheho our biggest challenge was finding safe potable water. Every day at dawn would mean trekking to a stream or a spring. Sometimes we had to wait hours for it to recharge if someone else got there first — nothing traumatised me more than the thought we would do this endlessly. There is no African who can speak about water without speaking about women. We have always been the ones who know where water will be found. In my village…

I met Sarah Edwards at the reception of Okonjima Plains Camp and we found a scenic spot to have breakfast overlooking the waterhole. Originally from Cheshire, England, she gained field experience on a ground squirrel project in Namibia, before doing a Masters in Animal Behaviour. Her PhD led her to Dr Ingrid Wiesel in Lüderitz and her introduction to brown hyenas; following which, her post-doc involved research into cheetahs and servals. In 2018, she was offered a job by AfriCat and has been at Okonjima Nature Reserve since. Sarah’s purpose here is to oversee research into brown hyenas, pangolins and aardvarks, with a focus on trying to understand their ecology in a fenced reserve. The project is sponsored by the Namibian Wildlife Conservative Trust, VARTA Batteries, the Ernest Kleinwort Charitable…

<THE TRADE VIEW> If you have visited Africa before, you will already treasure the magic that the continent provides and certainly yearn for more. And if you have not yet travelled to Africa, your time has come. Of course, there is the quick fix of sun, sea and sand, but there is so much more. Take the vast savannahs, brooding mountains and stunning white beaches, then add the smiling happy faces, vibrant music, fine wine and food to satisfy all palates, and you have just some of the ingredients to make the African dream you are chasing. In I Dreamed of Africa, Kuki Gallmann wrote: “When the savannah grass is streaked with silver, and pale gold rims the silhouettes of the hills, watch the sun setting behind the lake, and…

If you’re enjoying reading Travel Africa, and you like to explore Africa in depth, in your own time, why not subscribe and we’ll deliver a lot more of the world’s most exciting continent directly to you, four times a year. Each issue tends to be at least 144 pages, packed with features to inspire your future safaris and give you greater insight to the wildlife, places and people that draw you there. PRINT + DIGITAL To subscribe to the print magazine, visit travelafricamag.com/subscribe or call +44 (0)1844 278883 service@travelafricamag.com DIGITAL ONLY Travel Africa is available for your tablet, smartphone or desktop from zinio.com, pocketmags.com or your App Store (all platforms) travelafricamag.com/subscribe+44 (0)1844 278883 service@travelafricamag.com…

<READERS’ EXPERIENCES> GIFT OF LIFE KATE JOHNSON, USA If you want to get away from the distractions of everyday routine in order to experience a profound understanding of the gift of life (and who doesn’t?), you must visit Africa. It is where our human story began, and you can feel it when you stand in the bush, a soft breeze blowing and birdsong filling the air, listening to the delightfully accented commentary of your expert guide. Africans are the kindest, most courteous people I have ever met, and they are a primary reason to return, again and again… to learn and to be fully alive. DREAMS CAN COME TRUE GERRY MEYER, CANADA Living on the west coast of Canada, Africa was a far-off place I dreamed of going to but…

<PAGE LEARNER> In this new book, beautifully illustrated by Ryuto Miyake, Mike Unwin celebrates our relationship with our feathered friends and discusses the significant role they play in providing us with companionship, pleasure and a ubiquitous connection to the natural world that we are appreciating more than ever — interest in the birdlife around us has grown considerably since the Covid-induced lockdowns. With over 11,000 species worldwide — nearly twice the number of mammals — birds are the most diverse of all vertebrates. We are drawn to them by their visual appeal, their ear-catching calls, their astounding behaviours and abilities, their celebrated status or their rarity. Importantly, we are recognising their intrinsic relationship with the rest of nature: they are indicators of a healthy environment. Selecting just 80 representatives must…

I first got Namibian sand between my toes 26 years ago, and it’s remained there — at least metaphorically — ever since. It never surprises me that Namibia frequently jostles with New Zealand, Alaska and other wilderness heavyweights when we’re asked to vote for our favourite destination. Namibia is a traveller’s utopia: wild and rugged yet riddled with self-drive potential; a country so captivating and brimming with adventure, wildlife, epic landscapes and ancient culture that it quickly pervades your itinerary, stretching it thin. Two weeks become three; one visit becomes two. Before you know it, Namibia has wrapped you in its sandy embrace and won’t let go. I vividly remember my first trip back in 1996. My assignment — covering one of the legendary Skeleton Coast Safaris — involved flying…

Less populated than other places in Africa, thanks to its wild open spaces, Namibia is all about solitude. Arguably the country’s principal attraction, Sossusvlei, in the Namib-Naukluft National Park, is Namibia’s largest conservation area, at 50,000sq km. Climb the towering red dunes — including the 325m-high Big Daddy — which are continually shaped and textured by the fierce wind. They’re best visited at sunrise or sunset to revel in the light bouncing off the sand, and to avoid the heat. Then head to nearby Deadvlei, an eerie but beautifully tranquil spot, where withered silhouette-like trees poke out of a white-clay floor. This dune-encircled arena demands equally a long walk and a contemplative sit. In the north, Skeleton Coast National Park may, at first sight, appear unforgiving. But appearances can be…

As we neared the derelict diamond-mining town, the road became a dust bowl — the wind whipping the sand off of the dunes covering the tarmac. Bulldozers, conjuring up images of King Canute, were fighting a losing battle against the sand tide, as they tried to keep the road clear. As we drove over a rise, a lonely landscape opened up. The roofs of buildings, long-since abandoned, peaked out of the sand, struggling to survive against the encroaching desert. There was an eerie silence. Kolmanskop came into being in 1908, when a railway employee discovered diamonds here. Prospectors flocked to the area and the town boomed, housing 1300 people at its peak. The architecture includes a ballroom, a pub and skittle alley, a butcher’s, a bakery and even an ice…

With a 6000-year history, the huge sandstone boulders of Twyfelfontein house the largest concentration of rock paintings not just in Namibia, but one of the largest in all of Africa. Early hunter-gathers created this ‘open-air gallery’ of 2000-plus drawings by cutting through the hard surface layer of sandstone to depict the likes of rhino, elephant, ostrich and giraffe. The Hoba Meteorite, near Grootfontein, is an impressive lump of metal (it’s 82 per cent iron, 16 per cent nickel). Considered the largest-known single meteorite in the world, it weighs in at around 60 tonnes and measures 2.95m by 2.84m. Believed to be between 190 and 410 million years old, it fell to earth some 80,000 years ago. Namibia is still home to some of the most ancient of nomadic tribes, and…

Currently, there are 86 community conservancies dotted around Namibia. They cover more than 166,000sq km, just over 20 per cent of the country. Their sizes range from less than 50sq km to over 9000sq km, and they have very different resources and human populations. Their landscapes vary from floodplains and rivers in the northeast to the rocky plains of the Nama Karoo in the south. Some are home to a great diversity of wildlife, including elephants, rhinos and lions; others have only a few antelopes. The concept can be termed ‘collaborative connectivity conservation’, where conservation areas are not isolated islands but contiguous entities connected across different land-use areas. Community conservation has been very successful in empowering local communities. It has created formal conservation structures in communal areas, has facilitated the…

01 NORTHERN CIRCUIT JOURNEYS NAMIBIA Self-drive, 14 days/13 nights Day 1: Windhoek Spend your first night at Haus Schwerinsburg, a guesthouse 5 minutes from the Alte Feste Day 2: Okonjima Nature Reserve Head to Okonjima Nature Reserve, home to AfriCat. Stay at Okonjima Plains Camp from where you can enjoy cat-tracking guided safaris and learn about local San culture. Days 3-4: Etosha West Drive to Hobatere Lodge in Etosha West, home to several species not found in the rest of the park, including mountain zebra and brown hyena. Spend a couple of days game viewing. Days 5-6 Epupa Falls Travel to Epupa Falls, near the border with Angola. Settle in at Epupa Falls Lodge and enjoy the unspoilt environment and some world-class birdwatching. Days 7-8: Khowarib From Khowarib Lodge on the…

ALGERIA Africa’s largest country hosts the richest rock art concentrations on the continent, most in the Tassili n’Ajjer National Park. Most dates from between 9000 and 4000 years ago. HIGHLIGHT: Hunter in a cave: life-sized paintings from the Early Pastoral period, approximately 7000 years old. KENYA Kenya has a rich history of rock art ranging over several thousand years, with a variety of styles and themes.  HIGHLIGHT: Batwa and other paintings on the roof of a big shelter in the Kitui region. It is thought they are about 4000 years old. NIGERIA In addition to many rock painting and engraving sites, an important heritage of monoliths represent ancestral spirits. HIGHLIGHT: Carved anthropomorphic monoliths, perhaps 700 years old, can be found in Cross River State. CHAD The Tibesti Mountains in the…

We know that the Covid-19 pandemic has disrupted every sector of our economies, and conservation was not spared. The lockdowns meant that outdoor activities were suspended, which challenged conservation efforts across the continent, resulting in an increase in illegal activity such as poaching and wildlife trafficking. Funding for conservation was drastically reduced when revenues from tourism diminished, and the opportunity for fieldwork was limited. However, the pandemic exposed us to another way of communicating, highlighting the power of the digital world. With mobility hampered, coping mechanisms were put in place to maintain productivity through remote working. Furthermore, lockdowns have led to a higher consumption of information and more prolonged exposure to online platforms, with digital literacy improving. Covid-19 has altered the way the world works, demonstrating the limitations of many…

COUNTRY ON A PAGE: MOZAMBIQUE <VIEW WITH A ROOM> Going classic Two of Zambia’s most exciting owner-run safari operators have joined forces to offer complementary operations in Kafue and Lower Zambezi National Parks. Jeffery & McKeith Safaris and Tusk and Mane Safaris have merged to form Classic Zambia, with two small camps in each park, including Kutali Camp, pictured, located in a winterthorn forest on Kulefu Island in eastern Lower Zambezi. Imagine waking each morning with the Zambezi laid out before you……