Innholdsfortegnelse for Edition 93 i Travel Africa

Strange sights, new sounds, unfamiliar smells. It is a total assault on the senses, like being a child again and seeing the world afresh. Once you have been there, breathed its dry air, watched distant storms trailing across its immense horizons and been awakened by a million purring doves, you will never be the same. At least, despite everything I had read, that is how it was for me. My initiation took place in Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve. I had flown by light aircraft from Nairobi at the end of the rains and the land was still as green as Ireland as we bounced from one thermal to the next over endless plains on which herds of buffaloes stampeded away beneath our wings. Even before we touched down on…

A REASON TO BE DENISE BROWN, USA Growing up, when I watched documentaries about Africa my heart would beat faster and I felt this incredibly strong yearning, as if the continent was reaching out to me. When I had finally saved up enough money to visit, nobody else could come along – so I went to Tanzania alone. From the moment I stepped off the plane, I felt like I was home. A sense of belonging rose in me, like part of my soul had reunited with a long lost other part. Every day going deeper into the wilderness, I felt more love for the country and its people. Nowhere else have I felt more energised, more at peace with myself and my surroundings – and with this sense of…

RECOMMENDED READING Africa has long been a source of inspiration for writers, so we asked our contributors to propose books that have meant something to them THE GREEN HILLS OF AFRICA BY ERNEST HEMINGWAY This is embarrassing to say as a black man, but very few people have written about wild Africa better than Ernest Hemingway. I have read this book three times. He brings the acacia trees and the African skies and the smell of the anthills alive. The darkness of the African plains will never be the same. Neither will the sunsets. I live in Africa, have all my life, but reading about Africa from Hemingway made me fall in love with this continent all over again. It also made me sad that we don’t appreciate this continent…

The climate crisis has dominated the environmental agenda for the past ten years, along with a catastrophic loss of biodiversity at the hand of man. Sky-high temperatures, melting glaciers, devastating forest fires, floods and droughts have occurred with ever greater regularity. What more will it take for our leaders to act? The Covid pandemic has been the urgent wake-up call the world needed. There can be no return to a ‘normal’ that wasn’t working. Locked down at home in Nairobi since March 2020 has meant a time for reflection as to the state of our planet; the opportunity to complete our latest book Sacred Nature 2: Reconnecting People to Our Planet and to roll out the Sacred Nature Initiative whose aim is to Inspire, Educate and Conserve. Hosting safaris to…

We all recognise the thrill of seeing some of Africa’s most iconic animals in their natural habitat, and the memories of our favourite sightings remain firmly imprinted in our minds. For some, the prospect of seeing lions, elephants, rhinos and others in the wild has been a lifelong obsession. And for most of us, the excitement of these encounters is so irresistible it inspires multiple repeat trips. Marketing people lure us with the promise of seeing ‘The Big Five’ – elephant, rhino, lion, leopard and buffalo – but of course there are many more impressive species to see. Are giraffes a more rewarding sight than buffaloes? Wild dogs are increasingly sought-after on game drives. Gorillas may be the most captivating close encounter. For many people in tourism, wildlife photography and…

I’m delighted that people around the world have voted for elephants. Elephants are the largest land mammal on Earth. They’re so obviously intelligent and conscious. If you watch an elephant, you can sense that it’s thinking. They’re also very emotional. I’ve registered all their emotions over the years, from grief to anger to love for each other. The elephant has an extraordinary shape, with its enormous size, huge trunk and big ears. The trunk is one of the most versatile organs in the animal kingdom. It can suck up water and squirt. It can be used as a vessel to transfer water into the mouth. It can be used socially, for caressing or winding their trunks together. It can also be used to deliver very sharp blows. As an eating…

At the top of my list to both observe and photograph is the mountain gorilla, a true blue royal. Only an immersive trek up and down mountain slopes in the middle of an equatorial rainforest will get you an audience with him. But hunger, thirst and exhaustion fall away in the presence of such majesty. When you look at a silverback, he is equal parts indolence and energy; the languid ease of movement belies his menacing power. The little ones are nervous bundles of curiosity, peeping out and exploring, but always within arm’s length of their mother, her watchful eyes constantly on them. I remember a two-week old infant latching on to his mother and opening his eyes slowly in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda. With gorillas, wildlife photography…

The animals in the New Big 5 are among the world’s most iconic, beautiful, remarkable and popular. But the message of the project is that all life matters, that every creature, from the humble termite to the mighty humpback whale, deserves to exist. They all make the world a more interesting and healthier place, and are essential for biodiversity and for the future of the planet. “As a photographer, I’m just as interested in lizards, frogs and birds as I am in the charismatic giants, so I wanted to do what I could to help spread this message,” explains New Big 5’s Graeme Green. “On newbig5.com we’ve looked at all kinds of species, large and small, such as pangolins, giraffes, rhinos and cheetahs, as well as little-known creatures such as…

Montane rainforest and marshland come together in Nyungwe to create spectacular biodiversity, a home to endemic primates and birds. But its vast size, extensive borders and challenging topography render it vulnerable to poaching, illegal mining and encroachment from agriculture. To safeguard against this, in October 2020 the renowned conservation non-profit African Parks took on the management of Nyungwe for 20 years, in partnership with the Rwanda Development Board, and its future now looks bright. “Right now, we’re in transition,” African Parks’ Jes Gruner tells me. He’s CEO of the new Nyungwe Management Company (NMC), responsible for running the park. “Our new all-Rwandan Park Management Unit will work on law enforcement, conservation, tourism, and community development.” As ever, community buy-in is vital. “There’s a big community around here and they’ve been…

From the age of three, Emmanuel Kandiero was being taken on walking safaris in Nyika, Vwaza and Liwonde national parks by his father, who worked as a game scout. He recalls fondly these trips, learning about the bush and the art of scouting. As a young boy his favourite animal was a leopard, until one appeared at their kitchen door one day, snarling its alarm. Today, having trained as a guide and now general manager of Tongole Wilderness Retreat in Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, his favourite animal is the elephant, which he admires for its intelligence, herd communication and noticeable emotions. With his scout training, Emmanuel is also an honorary ranger, able to explore Nkhotakota with guests on walks, treks or game drives. The reserve is relatively new to wildlife tourism,…

It wasn’t my first time in Africa, but it was my first time south of the Equator. While many Brits choose Australia for their first foray in the southern hemisphere, I had jumped straight to the other end of the alphabet. To the would-be explorer in me, Zimbabwe felt pungent with promise. Best of all, I was visiting alone, with the deliciously sharpened senses that solo travel often brings. The Victoria Falls Hotel felt like an Edwardian lady who had stepped out of her carriage and settled down to enjoy the view, spreading her petticoats under a sky scrubbed clean by ozone and spray. As I crossed the lovingly watered lawns, warthogs scurried away. Victoria Falls National Park lay just beyond. It was early April, and the world’s largest sheet…

I was astounded by southern Kruger’s density of wildlife – the equal of which I’d not experienced beyond the Mara Kruger National Park is frequently written-off by experienced safari buffs as a ‘tame wilderness’. It’s often surprising therefore to come across real connoisseurs who proclaim themselves to be lifelong fans of South Africa’s biggest and oldest park. “My embryonic obsession for Kruger dates back to a first visit when my mother was still pregnant with me,” Fred Krantz smiled. “We went twice before I was one and visited on camping holidays every year after that. I still believe that Kruger National Park is quite simply the best park in the world.” Krantz spends his working weeks guiding visitors through some of Africa’s most spectacularly exclusive safari real estate, at Greater…

Many South Africans know the Kruger really well; we come for school holidays or long weekends and it leaves a special place in your heart. Our regular family visits fuelled my dream to become a guide from about the age of three. With wildlife moving freely over two million hectares of unspoiled wilderness, there’s always something new to see, interesting animal interaction to observe, vast landscapes and beautiful sunrises and sunsets. I never tire of watching elephants. They are like humans in some ways: you have to give them space and show them respect. And watching a family herd, you can quickly spot the naughty teenagers! We are fortunate to see endangered species like wild dogs, black rhinos and cheetah regularly, and I’ve been lucky to see a pangolin. But…

Domestic tourism will play an imperative role in securing the future of conservation. This statement emanates from the staggering figures released on the impact of the Covid pandemic on tourism in Africa, which is estimated to represent about 8.5 per cent of Africa’s GDP, employing around 24 million people. A recent study released by the East Africa Business Council disclosed that the East African region may have lost international tourism receipts to the tune of US$4.8 billion in the year 2020. This suggests that about 4.2 million foreign tourists were not able to travel to their preferred EAC destinations. While these statistics paint a grim picture of the reality on the ground, they also suggest enormous opportunities for both African travellers and especially African tourism operators. For Africans to begin…

LUCY KEMP SOUTH AFRICA CAMPAIGN: A COMMUNITY-BASED APPROACH TO CONSERVE THE SOUTHERN GROUND-HORNBILL The issue: Endangered in southern Africa, this species of bird has disappeared from 70 per cent of its historical range. How funding will be spent: Implementing a programme of local custodianship to protect nests and improve breeding success; supporting a national monitoring programme. SAMMY SAFARI KENYA CAMPAIGN: COASTAL STEWARDSHIP FOR SEA TURTLES The issue: Pressures on natural resources are mounting in Kenya’s Watamu Marine National Park, including the poaching of endangered turtles. How funding will be spent: Ramping up protection e. orts in response to Covid19; improving governance of the park; minimising community reliance on extractive marine practices. IRORO TANSHI NIGERIA CAMPAIGN: PARTICIPATORY ACTION TO SAVE THE SHORT-TAILED ROUNDLEAF BAT The issue: The species had not been…

Planning for Ultimate Safaris’ newest venture, the recently opened Onduli Ridge in Damaraland, began some two years ago. As with its other camps, the company “wanted to create something that was different to anything the Namibian travel industry had seen before”. Ultimate intentionally designed the camp without using engineers, architects or interior decorators, allowing, it says, “nature and its boundaries to determine the camp’s eventual outcome”. Then Covid hit two months into the building phase, throwing both the viability and the purpose of the camp into disarray – with lockdowns and disruptions to supply chains severely delaying the project, as well as affecting people’s livelihoods. It would have been easy to halt, but Ultimate resolved to continue – honouring its commitment to the land custodians, rural community and conservation initiatives.…

Named after Green Safaris’ beloved head guide Jacob Shawa – known to many as the ‘Zambian David Attenborough’ – Shawa Luangwa Camp opened its doors on 1 May. The ethos of the seasonal camp, which runs May to December, is, says Green Safaris’ founder Vincent Kouwenhoven, “based on Jacob’s approach to guiding: humility, humour and respect”. Luangwa-born and bred, Jacob handpicked Shawa’s location on the eastern bank of the Luangwa River. With his knowledge of the area and South Luangwa’s wildlife, he was integral to the creation of the fivetent camp. On a small grassy island in the middle of the Busanga Plains in Kafue National Park, Chisa Busanga Camp, another Green Safaris offering, has also welcomed its first guests – opening on 1 July. It too will run seasonally,…

At the time of writing it is more than 15 months after we went into lockdown here in the UK, and we in the travel industry _ind ourselves still unable to do any business. Frustrations are mounting, tensions are high and we are wondering how long we will be able to go on like this. In mid June, we held a members’ online Indaba (meeting). It was an opportunity to connect, share information and simply touch base. Many Atta member organisations are small familyrun businesses, so to feel that you are part of something bigger is important. We are all desperate to know when meaningful travel is going to resume and what it’s going to look like. What is very encouraging is that some countries are taking a pragmatic risk-based…

This image of a newly-born girae foal being groomed by its mother was taken by Thorsten Hanewald in the Maasai Mara, Kenya. It is the first winner for 2021 in the Africa’s Photographer of the Year competition, succeeding in the ‘New Beginnings’ category, which paid homage to fresh starts and symbolic lifecycles. The other themes include Colourful Africa, now accepting submissions. The overall annual winner will win a 14-day safari in southern Africa worth US$40,000, supplied by Rhino Africa and partners. To see the full gallery and enter, visit www.africasphotographeroftheyear.com…

Q How have you had to adapt due to lockdown? We used to know how many people were going to be in camp quite a long time in advance, but now we sometimes only hear of guests coming the day before. We don’t have as long to plan, so being able to source good quality local produce at short notice is even more important. Locally-grown fruit and veg that can be ordered each morning is essential, such as fresh strawberries from Chipata. We grow salad leaves, herbs, cherry tomatoes and various other seasonal produce in our own garden. With our unique a la carte service, we can design our menu around what we have available on a daily basis. Q Have you had to cater for new dietary trends? We…

1 DJANGO: A SMALL DOG WITH A BIG HEART BY PETER COMLEY Django tells the story of the author’s adventures in southern Africa with his wife and trusty Jack Russell cross. A tribute to their special bond, Django gives interesting insight to safari life in the Okavango Delta in particular, where Comley earned his reputation as a guide. 2 ON FOOT IN THE AFRICAN BUSH: ADVENTURES OF SAFARI GUIDES BY JEFF WILLIAMS Williams has compiled a series of stories that offer a sense of the adventure and challenge faced by guides every time they take clients on foot in the bush. You can imagine sitting around a campfire, absorbed by tales of drama, excitement and even laughter. 3 NEW ON EARTH: BABY ANIMALS IN THE WILD SUZI ESZTERHAS Wildlife lovers…

Travel leaves a lasting impact on our lives, long after we are back home. It exposes us to new cultures, experiences and people. It can challenge our perspectives. But so often, that change comes through passive consumption: we consume culture, we consume plastic, we consume fun experiences on the road. Are there ways we can turn travel from consumption to an active exchange? Is it possible for our adventures to leave a positive impact on the lives of others? When we visit new places, how are we showing up? My new book, Tread Brightly: Notes on Ethical Travel, is a humble attempt to answer these questions. In college, I became fascinated with ‘doing good’ while travelling. On service trips, such as to Peru and India, I went through familiar stages…

One has to admit, it is ironic that a phrase so commonly used to laud animals that are heavily endangered was coined by colonialera hunters in the 19th century, a term use to describe the most prized and dangerous animals to shoot and kill: elephant, rhino, leopard, Cape buffalo and lion. Photographer Graeme Green believed a different context should be applied for our modern times: the term should celebrate the remarkable animals we share the planet with via photography. His ‘New Big 5’ initiative set out to create a ‘New Big 5 of Wildlife Photography’, rather than hunting. Shooting with cameras, rather than guns. More than 250 international photographers, conservationists and global wildlife charities came together to support the project, including Dr Jane Goodall, Dr Paula Kahumbu (Wildlife Direct), Marsel…

Ilove elephants. Spending time with them is so joyous: listening to their rumblings, watching the calves interact with their mother and, best of all, seeing youngsters acting tough and trying to scare everything in their way. We all know it’s the strength of the adults at the rear that everyone’s really afraid of. My favourite memory dates to when I’d just started photography, and was so carried away shooting a big herd of elephants in Amboseli National Park that I didn’t realise they had surrounded me. Some were mere inches away from my vehicle. That’s the day I understood how they had earned their reputation as ‘gentle giants’. Photography brings important subjects into attention, allowing us to talk about a species under threat and the issues they face – such…

Ilove lions. They are what I spend my waking hours thinking about, worrying about and trying to conserve. How amazing is it that such a majestic, wild and terrifying creature still roams the planet? How privileged we are. Last night I was woken by lions roaring nearby. No matter how many times I have heard that sound, it still instils a sense of wonder, happiness and even a latent sense of fear. Lions are the symbol of Africa’s wilderness. The species is a cultural icon, a symbol of beauty, majesty and power, standing for royalty in Africa and elsewhere, an icon used by companies around the world, and a logo for a number of high-profile sports teams. People around the world derive enormous value from just knowing wild lions exist.…

We cross flowing rivers, pass small waterfalls and encounter several species of primates: silver and L’Hoest’s monkeys, a decent-sized troop of black-and-white colobuses. Just then, Peter stops and raises his hand, urging me to stay quiet It’s all about mindset. If I have a piece of rubbish, I keep it in my car. I don’t throw it out the window,” says Denni, my driver. In the heart of Africa – anywhere in the world, for that matter – this is a refreshing outlook, and one that sets the tone for my heart-warming journey through Rwanda. As we wind through the hills, the scenes change from effervescent towns, vibrant with people and colour, to verdant hills, terraced with tea and coffee plantations. But one thing is for sure, it is clean…

So many of us are now used to working remotely and keeping connected through the Internet. People are finding it easy to manage their commitments from afar, so it is no surprise that communities of digital nomads are setting up shop in Kenya, where they can get a taste of the country’s sun-kissed and stress-free lifestyle. Kenya’s coast boasts white sand beaches and glistening sea, lush creeks and tropical forests, marine parks and ancient ruins. If your dream is to relax on a verandah gazing at the ocean, reading a book or sipping a cocktail as the sun flushes pink on the horizon, this is your place. And if you’re a more active type, there’s more than enough to do here: learn to kitesurf, scuba dive or stand-up paddleboard; play…

“Over the last twenty years the government has partnered with organisations like African Parks and The Peace Parks Foundation to develop our key reserves. They are now better protected, with an enhanced infrastructure. Wildlife has improved immeasurably and more companies have invested. We feel we now offer as complete a wildlife experience as our more well-known neighbours. But Malawi is so much more than a wildlife destination. We have such varied scenery – bush, beach and mountains – and different experiences all within a few easy hours’ drive of each other – plus the friendliest people. The travel between places is an essential part of the experience, stopping in a village or at a viewpoint to ensure Malawi doesn’t pass you by. Soak it up: the journey can show you…

FROM THE AIR HELICOPTER To experience what Livingstone imagined when he wrote “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”, a 12-minute helicopter ‘flight of the angels’ is a must, providing breathtaking views of the full 1.7km-wide curtain of water and the gorges. From Victoria Falls and Livingstone. MICROLIGHT For a more natural and immersive experience, get a bird’s eye view from a microlight. It’s just you and your pilot, you can feel the with the wind in your hair – and occasionally the spray on your face as you soar above Mosi-Oa-Tunya (‘The Smoke That Thunders’). From Livingstone only. Guided tours If you’re looking for more facts and insights about the falls, the rainforest and its flora and fauna, and other points of interest,…

GET ACTIVE WALKING SAFARIS Most camps offer some form of walking activity, but there are several longer format options. If you’re a Stroller, Hiker or Explorer, Walk Botswana will tailor a trip to your abilities. David Foot Safaris use a base camp in the Okavango for three days of walking, dictated by the movement of game. What’s common to all is proceeding quietly, interpreting animal spoor, crossing mixed terrain and always obeying the guide. • WALKBOTSWANASAFARIS.COM • DAVIDFOOTSAFARIS.COM. WALKING.SAFARIS • WALKMASHATU.COM TRAIN TO BE A GUIDE The African Guide Academy runs 28-day guide training courses in an Okavango Delta concession not far from Maun. The head trainer jests “it will make a man of you,” although he admits ladies often show greater rifle-handling prowess during the staged mock lion charge.…

SELF-DRIVE An 11-day camping trip through Kruger with Tread Lite (www.treadlite4x4hire.co.za) starts at around £856, including rental of the new model Suzuki Jimny 4WD, unlimited mileage, insurance cover, all camping gear and camping accommodation through the park. OUR GREATER KRUGER HIGHLIGHTS: • andBeyond Ngala Tented Camp (www.andbeyond.com) is located on an unfenced private concession in the Timbavati area, famous for its white lions. • Garonga Safari Camp (www.garonga.com) is a beautifully-designed camp in the Greater Makalali Private Game Reserve. • Kruger Shalati (www.krugershalati.com) is Kruger’s newest and, perhaps most evocative, designer lodge: renovated railway carriages on a bridge over the Sabie River. • MalaMala (www.malamala.com) is a private reserve between Kruger and the Sabi Sands. It has been a household name with Kruger devotees for decades, renowned for exceptional leopard…

HISTORY The Kruger National Park (KNP) as we know it today was conceived by the proclamation of the Gouvernements Wildtuin (later to become the Sabi Game Reserve) on 26 March 1898, born from the need to put some kind of sanctuary aside for the wildlife which was rapidly depleting due to excessive hunting during the goldrush. It officially became South Africa’s first National Park in 1926. In 1993 the fences between the private game reserves to the west of the park were removed and the Greater Kruger National Park was born, including Letaba, Ngala, Manyeleti and Sabi Sand game reserves as well as the Associated Private Nature Reserves of Timbavati, Balule, Kapama, Klaserie, Thornybush and Umbabat. This added a further 180,000 hectares to promote free movement of wildlife, increased grazing…

A first-ever dedicated checklist of all the sharks, rays, skates and ghost sharks that occur in South African waters, their distribution and current IUCN Red List status, has been published by David Ebert, Research Associate at the South African Institute for Aquatic Biodiversity. Sharks and rays are among the most threatened taxa on the planet, some as endangered as rhino and pangolin. The monograph lists that 45 per cent of all shark species and 33 per cent of all ray species in these waters are at risk of extinction. “The long-term benefit is that this has laid the foundation for future research, management and conservation of South Africa’s shark (and ray) fauna,” said Ebert. South Africa is one of the top three global hotspots for sharks and rays, harbouring 204 species…

Meet Samuel Brown, guide, Elewana Loisaba, Kenya • Sighting you most hope to see? An elephant giving birth. • What do you never tire of? Elephants, particularly observing their social structure and feeding behaviour. • Most intriguing plant? The myrothamnus, commonly called ‘the resurrection bush’ for its ability to produce flowers after months of dormancy. It is one of approximately 70,000 plants that have medicinal qualities for either humans or animals. • Coolest small creature? The antlion. One of the ‘little five’, the antlion larvae trap their prey (usually ants) in a pit in the sand. They can survive for long periods without food and can take as long as two years to complete their lifecycle, from egg to winged adult. • Weirdest thing you like to show clients? Rock…

There can be few aspects of modern social life that are more fraught with pitfalls than South African barbecue etiquette. The braai (to use the local word) is far from a modern invention of course, but to many South Africans, the territorial right of the alpha male to rule the fireside is as inviolable as ever. Despite a childhood spent largely in rainy northern England, I’ve always enjoyed camping and gravitated early into a school of ‘bush tucker’ that often involved little more than a tin of steaming beans propped against a glowing log. Years later, in sunnier Spanish climes, I mastered the art of cooking a few low-key chargrilled specialties. Then, however, I fell in love with a woman who hails from a country where the humble braai has…

1 COOK & CONSERVE THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY, US$15 DOWNLOAD, BUSHCAMPCOMPANY.COM/COOKBOOK/ A collection of The Bushcamp Company’s favourite recipes, from George Zulu’s roast chicken to homemade ice cream and waffles over the fire. Available for digital download, with all proceeds going to Conservation South Luangwa. 2 FOOTPRINT OL PEJETA SAFARI COTTAGES, £19.50 DOWNLOAD, WWW.THESAFARICOTTAGES.COM/SHOP Over the years Sonja Webb – who spent a decade designing menus for Kicheche Camps and now at her own Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages – had written her recipes out on napkins for appreciative guests to take home. So, her daughter combined 130 of her most-loved dishes into a book, including camp favourites Kachumbari, Peanut Butter Soup and Beetroot Brownies. 3 A TOUR OF AFRICAN GASTRONOMY UNWTO, FREE DOWNLOAD, BIT.LY/TASTEAFRICA The UN has pulled together 30 chefs…

No doubt we have all had our interests aroused by a piece of evocative writing or a good story. Maybe we have struggled to find the right words to describe our safaris to our friends. It is not easy to write well, but perhaps thinking like a writer can also enrich our time in the bush. “The view was spectacular as the sun set in a ball of fire over the endless African plains. Shaking his magnificent mane, the lion got to his feet and uttered a ferocious roar.” We all recognise bad writing. But what makes it bad? The imaginary example above contains no grammatical errors or factual mistakes, but the scene it describes doesn’t ring true. ‘Magnificent’ and ‘spectacular’ give us nothing to visualise. ‘Ferocious’ is a cartoon idea…

1 GORILLAS The world’s largest primates are vital to healthy forests, controlling plant growth and distributing seeds. Mountain gorillas are found in Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). Their two ranges total less than 300 square miles – around one tenth of Yellowstone National Park in the USA. Their population is slowly recovering – the most recent census put their number at 1063, and they have been moved from Critically Endangered to Endangered due to conservation efforts. Grauer’s gorillas are only found in the DRC. Critically Endangered, there are around only 3800 remaining, an 80 per cent drop in two decades. Gorillas are losing their habitat due to human encroachment, disease, mining and climate change, and sometimes bushmeat poaching. DID YOU KNOW? Gorillas share more than 98…

It’s amazing to spend time with such beautiful animals. When I visit the gorillas, I feel a really deep connection. It’s very therapeutic. Every time I go to check on them, I learn something new. They’re easy to relate to. They’re so accommodating and gentle. People say chimps are what we are and gorillas are what we want to be. Naz Ahsun wrote a book called Discover Your Power Animal, which talks about spirituality and discovering ‘our’ animals. Gorilla groups are very family-oriented – a silverback living with females in a harem. They’re always moving together and looking out for each other. It’s about strengthening family connections. I’ve realised that when you discover your power animal – mine is a gorilla – you connect with your family. Mountain gorillas are…

Our planet’s wildlife is endlessly fascinating. I love photographing all kinds of creatures, from alien-looking rock agamas, bats, squirrels and colourful birds like rollers, bee-eaters, toucans and hornbills, through to iconic giants, such as gorillas, elephants and leopards. But my favourite animal to photograph is the lion. I can happily spend hours watching lions. Since the first time I saw one parading through the plains in Kenya, many years ago, my fascination has only grown. I’ve seen them feeding on carcasses, bearing down on prey, or lazing at sunset in golden grass. In Zambia, I had them come pretty close when I was on foot in South Luangwa, but they were more interested in nearby warthogs. They are noble, regal-looking animals, incredibly powerful and fearsome, but they’re also capable of…

Arthur broke into the broadest of smiles as we drove into the mist greeting us at the gates of Nyungwe. “This,” he said, “is where I really feel nature.” Our guide seemed to know every inch of Rwanda, every twist of every road hugging its thousand hills, and this dark, dense rainforest is his favourite place. The next day, I understood why, feeling that sense of nature for myself. After heavy overnight rains, the morning had brought with it a beautiful clarity. Trees, ferns and vines sparkled as shards of sunlight pierced through the forest with flashes of bright blue skies just visible through gaps in the canopy. After strolling and sliding along muddy paths, I teetered across Uwinka Overlook, a gently swaying suspension bridge some 50m above the forest.…

Malawi was the first African country that I travelled to. That was in 1995, and I’ve since returned numerous times and also visited most of its regional neighbours. It’s been a country of ‘firsts’ for me and, as the years have passed, the feeling that it was the perfect place to start my African odyssey has only strengthened. Africa’s ‘warm heart’ quickly established a very secure place in my soul. Malawi offers a flavour of all that appeals about Africa like nowhere else (with the possible exception of the larger South Africa): rewarding safaris, stunning (and varied) scenery, friendly people and even beautiful beaches – and relatively few visitors. Plus, it’s small, relaxed and pretty easy to travel around. Instantly hooked, I soon began working with the tourism industry to…

IT’S A DATE:LIVINGSTONE REACHED THE VICTORIA FALLS ON 17 NOVEMBER 1855…

“This wonderful waterfall has a divine power for so many people. For me it is a great source of inspiration and creativity… there is nowhere in the world quite like it. Victoria Falls is a home, a place of connection and a place of unmatched charm.” BRITTO MASEKO, CHIEF INSTRUCTOR, ACE AIR AND AMBULANCE EMERGENCY SERVICES “THIS WONDERFUL NATURAL RESOURCE IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE OF THE POSITIVE REVENUE IT GENERATES TO SUSTAIN LIVELIHOODS, AND BECAUSE IT IS A LIFE SUPPORT TO THE BIODIVERSITY OF THE REGION.” MATHEW MULEYA, HWANGE DCC CHAIRMAN AND SENIOR WILDLIFE OFFICER, VICTORIA FALLS, ZIMBABWE NATIONAL PARKS AND WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AUTHORITY “It has been such a privilege to grow up alongside one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, and to have met people from all over the world who come to…

SOSSUSVLEI For me, the sight of Sossusvlei’s dunes is right up there with Africa’s most natural iconic wonders like Victoria Falls, Table Mountain, The Sahara, Okavango Delta, The Great Rift Valley and the Ngorongoro Crater. Here, an ancient river course has been cut off over millennia by the advancing sand. It actually flowed earlier this year – for the first time in about three decades – due to the unusual voluminous rain. There is something otherworldly about this landscape. The dunes are a sight to behold. Choose any superlative and it will likely fit: biggest (over 1000ft), grandest, even oldest (they are five million years old). My aim was to display their colossal scale by including comparative objects such as trees and animals in the frame. I used a long…

I made a life-changing discovery on my  irst visit to Kruger: walking safaris. I’d never imagined it was feasible to go on foot in big-game areas, but after venturing out on a few walks, it was clear what a different – and richer – experience it offers, and how much you can learn in the care of trained, knowledgeable guides. Kruger National Park has by far the most walking options of any reserve in Africa and SANParks offers an impressive range that spans day walks, wilderness trails and backpacking trails. Going by foot is the only way to reach the park’s most pristine wilderness zones. I would be a shame not to venture on at least one dawn walkwhen staying at a Rest Camp. The pace is always on the…

The vegetation of the far north – from Punda Maria to the Levuvhu and Limpopo rivers – is the most arid part of the KNP, yet has certain flora and fauna not found anywhere else in the country. A beautiful riverine forest occurs along the Levuvhu River. South of this to the Olifants River, the predominant vegetation is mopani – mixed woodland with tall trees on the granitic soils in the west, and a shorter shrub layer on the eastern basal-derived soils. South of the Olifants to the Sabie River, combretum and acacia species dominate. Large open grassland with a scattering of trees and shrubs occur in the Satara area, with high numbers of plains game such as wildebeest and zebra. A characteristic feature of this area is the scattered…

In April, two women – Anety Milimo from Zambia’s Mosi Oa Tunya National Park and Nkateko Mzimba from South Africa’s Greater Kruger – were recognised in the IUCN International Ranger Awards for their unwavering dedication to wildlife protection. Yet women constitute just 11 per cent of the global ranger workforce, often experiencing inequality and inadequate facilities and support. Aiming to raise awareness and funding, the new World Female Ranger Day was launched on June 23 by UK charity How Many Elephants, founded by Holly Budge. The ongoing campaign will focus on Africa during this inaugural year. I spoke to Nkateko Mzimba. She’s a member of the Black Mambas, Africa’s first all-female anti-poaching unit, formed in 2013, which patrols areas of the Greater Kruger unarmed. The 36-strong team has dramatically reduced…

DR PAULA KAHUMBU KENYA CAMPAIGN: JUSTICE FOR PEOPLE AND WILDLIFE “I want to see a global shift in the narrative where Africans are the storytellers about African wildlife and assume the lead in efforts to protect it,” said Dr Paula Kahumbu, chief executive of Wildlife Direct. Kahumbu received this year’s top prize for “her outstanding work securing justice for wildlife and citizens in the ­ight against ivory traff icking and habitat destruction”, with what the judges called “a pioneering approach”. A Whitley Award-winner in 2014, Kahumbu used the funding she received to launch her Hands Off Our Elephants campaign, which contributed to decisive action against ivory poaching. Her subsequent Eyes in the Courtroom initiative has been recognised as the most authoritative account of wildlife justice in Kenya and raised convictions…

“The Linyanti Wildlife Reserve is a must-see spectacle, _illed with varied habitats, diverse wildlife and wonderful scenery,” said Wilderness Safaris’ Kim Nixon on the opening of the rebuilt DumaTau Camp and Little DumaTau, in northern Botswana. “The camps off er private access to Zibadianja Lagoon and more than 45km of exclusive traversing along the Linyanti River frontage…” The upgraded camps include remodelled tented suites, a deli and boutique area and extended decking to allow better game viewing over the Osprey Lagoon in an area known for regular sightings of elephants and wild dogs, among others. With an emphasis on providing a restorative experience for guests, a new wellness centre off ers spa treatments, yoga and a fully-equipped gym. The menu has been redesigned with a focus on healthy, locally-sourced ingredients,…

• Starting 6 August, Qatar Airways will fly three times a week – Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays – from Doha to Lusaka, Zambia, and on to Harare, Zimbabwe. • Kenya Airways resumed flights from Nairobi to London on 26 June. • Delta Air Lines is set to make a return to South Africa on 1 August, as it recommences a thriceweekly service between Atlanta and Johannesburg. Delta has also committed to restarting flights out of New York to Accra, Dakar and Lagos. • RwandAir became the first African airline to fully vaccinate its flight crews, as well as all sta. at Kigali International Airport. The carrier is also the first African airline to achieve Diamond status in the APEX Health Safety audit, for its safety and hygiene standards. Ethiopian Airlines…

Don’t you just hate paying for travel insurance? I would rather spend the money on a _light over the Okavango Delta or splashing out on the honeymoon suite at Cottars 1920. Besides, I suspect that everybody else has been swindling the insurance companies for years with spurious claims – which is why my premiums are so high. Or maybe it’s just my age that now loads the price. What’s really made matters worse is that new instrument of government control: the ‘FCDO Travel Advisory’. This now seems to have become travel law, rather than simply imparting useful advice as it was intended. You used to be able to visit any country in the world without the government warning you of every conceivable risk. But now we are held to ransom…

As I climbed out of the Land Rover at our camping spot, the thrill of the journey was still fresh. Here we were, setting up camp in the Serengeti! No fences, no tourists, no guide and no facilities. Just us, the campfire and the bush. I had never felt so alive and at one with nature. In recent years a safari has been centred around fully-serviced camps and guided game drives. The exploration and adventure of the old-style adventure in a battered 4x4 has all but disappeared. Of course, there is nothing wrong with that. A lodge-based safari o.ers many advantages. But for me, it’s the sense of freedom that appeals about self-drive: the opportunity to engage with a country outside of the national parks, to take the road less…

VEHICLE HIRE You can pick up a 4x4, including a roof tent, for between £150 and £300 per day, depending on the area, type of car and time of year. We’ve used Shaw Safaris in Arusha and their Land Rovers are extremely well equipped and maintained. They also have a campsite. CAMPING AND PARK ENTRY FEES Generally, you can pay at the entry gate, but if you are camping in a national park you may need to book in advance. Booking your permits and camping can be complicated, especially at Ngorongoro, but, with planning, it’s possible to get most of the paperwork in order before you arrive. Your vehicle hire company can usually help with this. Entry to parks is not cheap and the fees quickly add up. Each park…

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