Innholdsfortegnelse for July-September 2017 i Travel Africa

Forgotten caldera Driving through the undulating emerald landscape of Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Conservation Area, we pass Maasai herders, bedecked in ruby-red, guiding their animals to fresh grazing. At last the spiritual Ol Doinyo Lengai, or ‘Mountain of God’, appears in the distance. The faded-blue active volcano is shrouded in mystique; it blends seamlessly with its hazy surroundings like a painting. Continuing on foot, we set off towards the Empakaai Crater, an ancient caldera — and suddenly, there it lies. The deep saline lake sparkles like a sapphire, and is rimmed with white salt and pink greater and lesser flamingos. We begin our vertiginous descent through lush greenery, along a trail lined with yellow lion’s claw flowers and purple morning glory. As we approach the water’s edge, flamingos start to soar and…

1 Sue Watt Kenya, page 114 “For all the wonderful wildlife around Mara North Conservancy, one of my favourite animals at Serian was their dog, a gorgeous labrador/ Rhodesian ridgeback who loved chasing monkeys. His name was Wi-Fi, so called because managers Rosh and Adrian Allen could then tell guests he was ‘the only Wi-Fi in the camp’.” Sue is a London-based travel writer. She is a regular contributor to Travel Africa and also writes for The Telegraph and The Times. 2 Justin Fox South Africa, page 60 “One afternoon at Mosetlha Bush Camp in Madikwe, I joined a team of birders. The group had already ticked off an impressive list. ‘Better get myself a whisky to soothe the nerves,’ said one chap. ‘This birdwatching lark is getting way too…

DID YOU KNOW? The Chyulu Hills are home to one of Kenya’s last populations of wild endemic black rhino, one of the most endangered species on Earth. To read more about how to support the conservation of this amazing creature, visit savetherhino.org. Chyulu Hills, Kenya Alex Walters “This quintessential African landscape of acaciaclad hills and vast grassy plains stretching to the ever-present Kilimanjaro epitomises Ernest Hemingway’s ‘green hills of Africa’. This volcanic region is home to Kenya’s last population of endemic black rhino, which favour the thicket vegetation of the many ancient lava flows. These lava tunnels, some of the longest in the world, also make perfect hideouts for the elusive leopard. The continent’s last big-tusker elephant roam freely here, moving within the Amboseli-Tsavo ecosystem. Gerenuk graze the lower branches…

A CO-OWNER’S STORY Botswana is still one of the wildest places in the world: an icon for any nature lover that still has all species of animals and many of the jewels in danger of extinction. The Tuli Block is an area of future development: important plans to develop are already approved, such as the transfrontier park bet ween South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana. This, together with initiatives such as our private game reserve, will recover a huge pristine area that can become one of the most interesting places in this world from its potential of wildlife, in a sustainable way, and it will also benefit the local communities. The way I see the investment in this reserve is not as an investment as such. I see it as a…

Vast, pristine and largely undiscovered, the Selous Game Reserve covers 50,000 sq km of rolling savannah, mountains, forest, lakes, rivers and deltas. A World Heritage Site and Africa’s largest wildlife reserve, Selous is home to large herds of elephant, as well as sizeable populations of lion, buffalo, crocodile, hippo, wild dog, wildebeast, zebra and more than 400 species of bird, as well leopard, cheetah and some of Tanzania’s last remaining black rhinos. Flowing through the reserve is the meandering Rufiji River, which draws huge volumes of game to its network of channels, lakes and swamps, particularly during the dry season, which runs from July through to November. Just a 45-minute flight from Dar es Salaam, or 90 minutes from Ruaha, Selous offers prime, uncongested game viewing, whether driving, on foot…

READERS SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCES Swollen storm clouds commonly gather at a distance to reflect a mixture of ominous and vibrant light onto the landscape below Many people prefer to go on safari during the dry months because they do not like the rain. But in fact, the green season can be the best time to go to this southern African country It is outstanding value for money, as there are fewer tourists during the emerald season. This is critical considering that Botswana is one of the most expensive African destinations due to its remote lodges and the government’s decision to prioritise low-impact tourism. Even the standard and entry-level properties are pricey. These high-season rates generally apply between mid-June and the end of October, and the rates only drop again in…

Scan this page with the Layar app for more content Morning stretch Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa “Leopard enjoy lying in trees where they are able to spot both potential prey and danger. I often found them occupying trees that appear horrifically uncomfortable. However, on this occasion, the female had found a comfortable fork in a marula tree — so much so that she had fallen asleep, leaving me rather frustrated. The dawn light was disappearing but just when I’d almost given up hope, she gave an almighty yawn. An outstretched paw and extended claws added a delightful extra element.” Last breath Greater Kruger National Park, South Africa “Leopard love to stalk anything that moves. Of all the big cats, they are by far the most patient hunters. On…

The northern corner of South Africa, along the border with Botswana, falls beyond the compass of most visitors. This sparsely populated Bushveld region has good ecotourism infrastructure, fine game reserves, superb scenery and diverse appeal, especially for families. The two main safari areas are Madikwe Game Reserve and the Waterberg Biosphere. The former doesn’t allow day visitors or self-drive safaris and has more than a dozen private properties. At the budget end of the spectrum is the rustic Mosetlha Bush Camp & Eco Lodge but most are top-end safari hideaways, such as Jaci’s Lodges, with all the pampering you’d expect of such establishments. The wildlife viewing in Madikwe is excellent. The latter is a varied, mountainous biosphere with a number of parks and private reserves. These include the spectacular Lapalala…

The two fabulous “Starbed Suites” at Jaci’s Safari Lodge are the epitome of private, romantic safari accommodation. Set over two levels, these luxury suites are ideal for honeymooners or those celebrating any other special occasion. Striking bursts of colour, authentic décor, bold furniture pieces and luxurious finishes reflect style and sophistication with a bushveld twist. Each private suite boasts two king-size beds – one of which is on the rooftop deck to enable you to sleep under a canopy of stars – outdoor showers and indoor bathrooms as well as a lounge area, private safari bar and viewing deck. Designed with comfort and relaxation in mind, and inspired by our natural, serene surroundings, these two new Starbed Suites are quite simply bushveld romance personified! To experience a truly authentic safari…

Sulphurous steam infuses the air with the smell of rotten eggs, and chimneys of lumpy minerals spit furious jets of magma-heated brine into the air An armed soldier, attired in military fatigues and carrying an AK47, totters cautiously over a bed of yellow sulphur crystals, paying attention not to trip into one of the many bright-green acid pools in this otherworldly landscape. If he were to slip, he would either boil to death or slowly dissolve. Well, that’s what Hammed, my Afar tribal guide, tells me. “See that guy over there?” he says, pointing to the soldier standing atop a mushroom-shaped geyser. “He fell through a deceptively thin crust of minerals a few years back and lost all the skin on one of his legs. That’s why he walks with…

NEWS FROM THE AFRICAN WILDLIFE FOUNDATION Space to roam. It’s a necessity for the world’s largest land animal, but in southern Kenya’s Kilimanjaro landscape – which has earned notoriety for its sizeable elephant population – that roaming space has become increasingly hard to _ nd. This landscape includes Amboseli National Park in Kenya, Mt. Kilimanjaro National Park in Tanzania and several group ranches and conservancies. Further east, this ecosystem connects to the Tsavo landscape, which comprises Tsavo East, Tsavo West and Chyulu Hills National Parks in Kenya and Mkomazi National Park in Tanzania. The two landscapes, each important in their own right, form a broader ecosystem. As agriculture has gained popularity as a means to make a living in this historically pastoralist region, farms are increasingly obstructing elephants’ paths as…

EXPERTS HELP YOU PLAN YOUR TRIP TIME Q What would you recommend for a couple with just one week to spare in South Africa? We are looking for variety and romance. VICKY NEL, AFRICAN SECRETS I would suggest combining a visit to the Cape Winelands with a safari in Madikwe Game Reserve. You should fly into Cape Town and stay in the area around Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. This region offers high-end accommodation on beautiful wine estates, worldclass restaurants, good spas and an array of adventure activities. Then you should fly to Gaborone or Johannesburg and make your way to Madikwe Game Reserve, which offers excellent Big Five safari. Here, you can stay in one of the Jaci’s Lodges’ romantic Starbed Suites. BUDGET Q I want to go on safari, but…

Stunning vistas. Escarpments dropping down into a valley below. Gelada monkeys grazing peacefully at altitudes as high as 3,000 m above sea level. Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains National Park offers a taste of Africa different from the stereotypical East African savanna experience. Even its wildlife is not what you might expect. Rather than the elephant and the lion, here, you’ll encounter the Walia ibex, an endangered goat endemic to Simien Mountains National Park; the Ethiopian wolf, the world’s most endangered carnivore; and 21 other mammal species. The park is also home to a high number of bird species—more than 180 species, including the near-threatened lammergeyer, also known as the bearded vulture. The biodiversity here is of such significance that Simien Mountains National Park became one of the first parks ever to…

WEB DELVE INTO AWF’S 2016 ACHIEVEMENTS AWF’s 2016 annual report is now available as an exciting digital experience. From deterring poachers and improving education for communities in key landscapes to advocating for wildlife at the continental level, AWF had a productive 2016. All told, the organization spent 87 cents of every dollar donated directly on its conservation programs. Explore the organization’s accomplishments of the past fiscal year through stunning photos and engaging narratives on your computer monitor, tablet or smartphone. Explore a successful year in review: www.awf.org/AnnualReport2016 BLOG Celebrating women in conservation According to AWF trustee Dr. Myma Belo-Osagie: “Women make up the backbone of society.” Indeed, in the landscapes where AWF works in Africa, women play important roles in their families—and also have the most direct impact on the…

NYEGE NYEGE FESTIVAL, 1-3 SEPTEMBER, JINJA, UGANDA FROM AFROBEAT TO ARAB TECH TO TUAREG ROCK, THIS CARNIVAL CELEBRATES A HUGE VARIETY OF CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN MUSIC. In full bloom July-September, Namaqualand, South Africa Sunset orange, alizarin crimson, rich magenta, pure white, burnt umber and deepest azure. These are just a handful of the colours found in the verdant hills and valleys of Namaqualand in South Africa after the winter rains. Almost 4000 species of plant, some endangered and rare, have lain dormant awaiting the waking call of water and now begin to rise and carpet the area. Driving, hiking or cycling through these vast natural palettes makes for an incredibly enjoyable part of any trip — and for flower enthusiasts, certain species such as snow protea, blue Lachanaea filamentosa and pink…

A LETTER FROM LONDON Dress is so important to this community that when there is a wedding, it is not uncommon for the invitation to state the shade and textile the congregation must wear I bet you didn’t know that Peckham is home to more members of Britain’s 115,000-strong overseas Nigerian community than anywhere else in the country, making up around seven per cent of the population of the area. Significant numbers also live in Dalston, Hackney, Swiss Cottage, Shepherd’s Bush and Kilburn. Knowing this, and intrigued, I recently decided to set out on a two-hour ‘Little Lagos’ Peckham tour, which provided a fascinating glimpse into the community. Our guide, Kemi, was born in Britain but moved back to Nigeria aged two and returned to the UK in the 1990s.…

READERS SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCES We walked in and felt as though we had arrived at the most delicious and inviting bakery of all On the most southern edge of the Winterberg Mountains, within the Smaldeel Valley, lies the small and quaint village of Bedford. This charming little settlement is 200km from Port Elizabeth, surrounded by beautiful, rolling green hills. My husband and I were blown away as we came across The Duke of Bedford Inn (above), an old hotel found on the corner of the main road. When stepping foot inside, it felt as if we had time-travelled to the 1800s. It featured beautiful, wrought-iron spiral railings, original wood flooring, large bay windows that allowed magnitudes of warm light to filter through, complementing each room’s decor. When walking through the…

Water. You don’t know how much you’ll miss it until you’ve spent a week in the deserts of north-western Namibia. The Kunene may not be Africa’s biggest waterway, but by the time we reach it, this blue border between Namibia and Angola is like a gift from the gods. Kunene River Lodge is an oasis of palm-shaded campsites, green lawns and high-pressure showers, but the river and Epupa Falls, whose tumbling roar is like music to our sand-clogged ears, is also a life-giving artery for the semi-nomadic Himba people. My first up-close encounter with the Himba was in a supermarket in the regional town of Opuwo. A mother was walking down the aisle, a toddler in tow, pushing a trolley and talking to a friend on a cell phone. She…

It’s there as we round the corner: a roadblock, just as we’d been warned. My wife is at the wheel. “Leave it running,” I hiss, while we slide to a halt and I race through our mental checklist of dos and don’ts. “Don’t do anything provocative.” This time, the figure barring our way is not in uniform. Nonetheless, his authority is unquestionable — especially as he weighs five tonnes and could flip us like a tortoise. We hold our breath as he gives us the once-over. Thankfully, he seems more concerned with demolishing a roadside mopane than checking our licences and with a flap of his ears he waves us through. Before I set out with my wife and 14-year-old daughter, Flo, on our self-drive tour of Zimbabwe, roadblocks had…

Just outside the camp, we’re tracking a leopard through sandy soil in Kafue. The previous night, the cat’s sawing roar pierced the stillness along the river, briefly quieting the hippos’ grunts and fiery-necked nightjars’ trill. We had woken before sunrise to search for the elusive creature. But after following its spoor for 100m along the road, the paw prints veer into the grassy undergrowth, and we give up. The leopard is hiding amid, literally, millions of trees. This is the miombo — an immense swath of woodlands that blanket southern-central Africa from Angola in the west to Tanzania and Mozambique in the east. In the middle, in southern Zambia, is Kafue National Park. It’s one of the continent’s oldest and largest parks but remains one of the wildest. Scientists rate…

It’s just after 6am. The air is still and cool. In the lingering morning mist, I follow a hard-trodden earth path through apparently impenetrable vegetation, almost 2m high. Soon an insistent munching sound suggests the presence of large and voracious herbivores. The path rises and the beasts are at last revealed. A team of pickers, their shears hungrily devouring fresh growth, wades through a sea of brilliant green tea plantation. At 1000m, among the rolling hills of southern Malawi’s Shire Highlands, Satemwa is the country’s last remaining independent tea estate. Owned by the Cathcart Kay family, tea was planted here by pioneering Scot, Maclean Kay, in 1924. Related by marriage to David Livingstone, the family’s roots run deep in the country’s red soil. Malawian tea, including that from Satemwa, has…

Before us lies a charred elephant skull. We stop, examining it like detectives, trying to ascertain its age and the cause of death. Chris informs us that these immense creatures can live for up to 70 years The smell of hot dust is heavy on the air — that rich, earthy aroma you only encounter in the African bush in the dry season. It is mid-October in the heart of Tarangire National Park and we are beginning to wilt. This hidden jewel on Tanzania’s northern circuit is o_ en overlooked in favour of the better-known Ngorongoro Crater, Lake Manyara and the Serengeti. But the country’s sixth largest national park is a glorious place for the discerning traveller. Baobabs pepper the savannah, like Ents in Middle-earth, and the Tarangire River meanders…

Wandering along the labyrinthine alleyways of the Medina, it seems that little has changed for centuries, as I watch craftsmen hammering metal, carving wood and weaving wool on handlooms. There was a time when Morocco was only valued for its traditional arts and crafts. A turning point came in 2004 when Vanessa Branson — Richard Branson’s sister and owner of the beautifully restored riad El Fenn — founded the Marrakech Biennale to establish the Red City as one of culture, embracing creativity and celebrating new ideas. Initially a one-off exhibition of Moroccan artists, today the festival has gone global, opening up galleries and public spaces around the city — everywhere from the historic El Badi Palace and Koutoubia Cisterns to L’Blassa, a repurposed abandoned apartment building in Gueliz — with…

BOTSWANA Little Vumbura Camp, Okavango Delta Seated in Wilderness Safaris’ private concession in the north of the Okavango Delta, this small camp has reopened after a period of refurbishment. Situated on an island, its six intimate tented suites are the perfect base for both land and water-based activities. There is a circular bar, shaded pergola and a fire deck offering 360° views. NAMIBIA Kazile Island Lodge, Zambezi Region Situated on an island on the banks of the Kwando River, this is the latest addition to Bwabwata National Park’s accommodation options. A secluded paradise, the lodge can only be reached by boat and its Meru tents are set within mangosteen forest. It is common to see herds of buffalo, elephant and the occasional sitatunga roaming the serene floodplains here. Guests can…

AWF launched its Classroom Africa program in 2013 to provide rural communities with a strong incentive to engage in conservation. In return for a signi_ cant conservation commitment by a community, AWF, through Classroom Africa, rebuilds or upgrades a primary school, ensures ongoing teacher training, provides conservation education and, where applicable, o_ ers students access to technology. In previous articles about the program, we’ve covered the design and construction process for some of our Classroom Africa–supported schools. But what does it really take to build and support a Classroom Africa school, from beginning to end? The fact is, the process of even getting to the groundbreaking to start the construction process can take months of behind-the-scenes e_ ort. Brian McBrearity, managing director of Classroom Africa, notes that developing a Classroom…

FROM BURNS TO BANS, government action on ivory over the past few years has offered a measure of protection for Africa’s elephants against wildlife trafficking. It seems Africa’s rhino haven’t been quite as lucky. While South Africa—the country where the majority of Africa’s rhino reside—reported a slight decline in rhino poaching at the beginning of 2017, courts in April dismissed an appeal that would have continued an eight-year ban on the country’s domestic rhino horn trade. The dismissal was a potentially disastrous development for this species (see “South Africa to allow rhino horn trade” on p. 2). For the black rhino particularly, poaching continues to present a major threat to its survival. Almost 100 percent of the population’s recent decline has been at the hands of poachers looking to make…

WHY VISIT? Remote and wild, Ruaha National Park is packed with game and an abundance of birdlife. Diverse vegetation meets a dramatic topographical backdrop: endless rolling hills, vast open plains, secret groves of ancient baobabs and the Great Ruaha River. The park — the largest in Tanzania at around 20,000 sq km — supports one of Africa’s largest elephant populations. It offers superb, crowd-free wildlife viewing and is particularly good for spotting predators, including lion and the endangered wild dog. WHAT TO SEE? Scenery The main feature of the park is the Great Ruaha River, on its southern border, which attracts hordes of animals in the dry season. Wildlife As well as an estimated 15,000 elephant, there are plentiful large prides of lion and Ruaha is one of the very…

YOUR SHORTCUT TO BIG ADVENTURES IN GREAT PLACES 1 ANSE SOURCE D’ARGENT, LA DIGUE, SEYCHELLES Featured on numerous lists as one of the best beaches in the world, this idyllic cove has dramatic rock formations for envy-inducing Instagram posts. Take a ferry from Praslin Island and rent bikes from the dock; it’s a 20-minute ride from there to the beach. Best for Instagram addicts. 2 CAMPS BAY, CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA If Miami came to Africa, it would look and feel like Camps Bay. Glamorous locals and in-the-know tourists frequent the suburb’s white-walled hotels and trendy bars. Café Caprice is a great spot for sundowners, known for its cocktails and weekend DJ nights. The Bungalow is an opulent and classy lounge with dramatic views; for delicious seafood, there’s nowhere better…

READING THAT’S WORTH SHARING “As long as we have persons of her calibre, South Africa will shine,” said Nelson Mandela of Fatima Meer. A writer, academic and anti-apartheid political activist, Meer was a key figure in South Africa’s justice movements since she was 17. Her life was a long history of social work and crusading. She learnt the power of the written and spoken word at an early age and cultivated a talent for speaking her views through multiple channels, which garnered her much attention. In 1946, she joined many other South African Indians in passive resistance against apartheid. In 1956, she and the Federation of South African Women marched to the Union Buildings, the seat of South African government. She survived an assassination attempt in 1976, and in the…

• Getting there British Airways and Lufthansa code-share with Air Namibia to Windhoek via Frankfurt, and South African Airways and Virgin Atlantic fly via Johannesburg. Wilderness Safaris operates its own internal air service to its network of lodges throughout Namibia. With its excellent roads, Namibia is also an ideal self-drive destination. Several companies offer fully kitted-out 4WDs, which are recommended for the Kunene Region. • Where to stay For self-drivers on a budget, Kunene River Lodge offers affordable rooms and camping; you can arrange rafting trips from here. If your budget stretches to fly-in, check out Wilderness Safaris’ isolated Serra Cafema Camp. Visits to Himba villages can be organised from most lodges in the region. • When to go The wet season in Kunene runs from October to March. Winter…

• Getting there Both the Madikwe Game Reserve and the Waterberg Biosphere are within easy striking distance (four and three hours respectively) of Johannesburg on good national roads. Many of the parks don’t allow private vehicles, but in those that do, an ordinary sedan is sufficient. • Where to stay Madikwe doesn’t allow self-drive safaris or day visitors, which means you must stay at one of its private properties. Jaci’s Safari Lodge, Jaci’s Tree Lodge, Madikwe Hills and Tuningi safari lodges are some of the best choices for couples, groups and families looking for a comfortable getaway. Mosetlha Bush Camp & Eco Lodge is a good value budget option. The Waterberg has an array of offerings, ranging from budget accommodation at Marakele and self-catering at Tlopi Camp to trails with…

Great Plains Conservation, andBeyond and Wilderness Safaris are just three of the private companies supporting sustainable tourism in Botswana. Here are a few more who are doing their bit: Stuart Bartman Karibu Safari Botswana “The last true wilderness on Earth is under pressure. As access to these areas improves, locals increasingly seek a share of the reward; but sadly this doesn’t always happen, so many resort to poaching, either for sustenance or more often than not for commercial gain. However, we have partnered with People for Wildlife on a remote camera-trap project, which helps with identifying both animals and people moving in and around our areas of operation. This information is then shared with either the research groups or the relevant authorities. The positive results have been fantastic!” Mike Brogden…

Car rental Vehicle hire in Zimbabwe is expensive. Most international companies operate here. Affordable local alternatives include Zimbabwe Car Hire, which provides well-maintained second-hand vehicles. Any reputable rental company must complete all the paperwork and provide a full set of spares, plus everything needed for police traffic checks. Vehicle A 4WD is desirable and in some wilderness areas, such as Mana Pools, essential. If too pricey, however, there is still plenty you can do in a normal car — even, with care, in some national parks, including much of Hwange. Take local advice. Roadblocks You will find these on all main roads, especially outside major towns. Despite stories of trumped-up charges, most traffic police are simply doing their job. Provided your vehicle is in good working order and you carry…

• Getting there Many airlines fly to Kilimanjaro Airport, near Arusha. The writer flew with Kenya Airways. From there, it’s about a two-hour drive to Tarangire National Park. It’s best to arrange your trip through a company such as South Africanbased Wild Frontiers, an excellent tour operator specialising in East, West and southern Africa, with camps, lodges, guides and operations in South Africa, Tanzania and Uganda. • Where to stay There are several good accommodation options in Tarangire, including Tarangire Ndovu and Tarangire Safari Lodge. The writer stayed at Asilia’s Oliver’s Camp, situated in the southern reaches of the park, which has 10 beautiful tents overlooking a floodplain of the Minyonyo Pools, near the Silale Swamp. • How long? Thanks to its proximity to Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro…

TRAVEL NEWS ON THE BUSHWIRE PLASTIC BAGS BINNED Effective from 28 August, plastic bags will be banned throughout Kenya to ensure they cause no further environmental damage. The rule has been implemented by Kenya’s Cabinet Secretary for the Environment and Natural Resources Professor Judi Wakhungu, and will affect the use, production and trade of all forms of plastic bag. Twice the price On 8 May the Rwanda Development Board announced an increase in the price of gorilla tracking permits, from US$750 to US$1500 for all visitors. This will not affect tourists who have already purchased permits. The new fees have been introduced to ensure and strengthen the sustainability of conservation initiatives and contribute to the development of communities living around the Volcanoes National Park. RETURN OF THE RHINO The Akagera…

WHY VISIT? Politically stable, not quite six hours by air from Paris and blessed with an idyllic Atlantic coastline and long dry season that starts in November, Senegal has long been a go-to destination for French sun-seekers taking refuge from the chilly European winter. But, as evidenced by a tally of seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, this culturally and ecologically diverse country offers far more than a stock beach holiday. Contrasting with the heady modernity of Dakar (a city sometimes dubbed the Paris of Africa) are the time-warped Île de Gorée and ancient megaliths of Sine Ngayène. And while wildlife viewing doesn’t compare to East or southern Africa, a network of national parks protects more than 650 bird species, from colourful parrots, rollers and bee-eaters to the millions of migrant…

The Lomako landscape in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) is a difficult place to work. AWF started its programs here in the aftermath of a troubled period, which had made life hard for the people in the area. The local economy—which was based on cash crops, such as growing coffee, oil palms and rubber trees—was brutally disrupted, leaving forest resource exploitation as the only way to survive. I joined AWF in 2005 as a technical assistant and administrator in AWF’s Mbandaka office in the landscape. I spent two years there before moving to Basankusu, where I was in charge of a livelihood impact project funded by the World Bank. Twelve years later, I am still in the landscape as senior field officer, doing what I love most. In a…

With the western part of an ecosystem in Kenya now secure, AWF works to protect the elephants wandering to the eastern end Space to roam. It’s a necessity for the world’s largest land animal, but in southern Kenya’s Kilimanjaro landscape—which has earned notoriety for its sizeable elephant population— that roaming space has become increasingly hard to find. This landscape includes Amboseli National Park in Kenya, Mt. Kilimanjaro National Park in Tanzania and several group ranches and conservancies. Further east, this ecosystem connects to the Tsavo landscape, which comprises Tsavo East, Tsavo West and Chyulu Hills National Parks in Kenya and Mkomazi National Park in Tanzania. The two landscapes, each important in their own right, form a broader ecosystem. As agriculture has gained popularity as a means to make a living…