Innholdsfortegnelse for Edition 91 i Travel Africa

This entertaining and anecdotal story tells how the author opts out of ‘normal life’ and jumps on an arduous and rough-and-ready trans-Africa overland truck tour from Morocco to Zimbabwe in the early 1990s. From bone-shaking roads and nightmare border bureaucracy, to campfire camaraderie and seeing Africa’s extraordinary landscapes and wildlife for the first time, it’s an engrossing travelogue of the fun and frustrations experienced when crossing Africa by road. Written with insightful observations and plenty of laughs, it is one woman’s journey as she falls in love with Africa; and stays there – going on to live in Harare and operate her own overland truck company. This inspirational book is a reminder that travelling in this continent can never be described as ordinary. What books would you recommend? EMAIL editor@travelafricamag.com…

Tony Park’s new novel, his 18th African thriller, centres on a plant. One of the world’s rarest living organisms, the cycad is so valuable – some fetching more than US$100,000 each on the black market – that its popularity among collectors is pushing the species towards extinction. With this destructive illegal trade as a backdrop, Park’s regular heroine Sonja Kurtz joins forces with a squad of elderly South African plant and gun enthusiasts to track down the rarest of plants and avert a stolen cycad-funded terrorist attack in the process.…

“I can’t remember a time in my life when I haven’t been thoroughly captivated by Africa. My wife and I have been lucky enough to have visited the continent five times so far, even getting engaged at Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge and then married at Kichwa Tembo the following year. Those travels are what inspired me to write an adventure novel about a safari guide who has to get his clients out of the bush safely after their vehicle is destroyed by poachers. I hope it evokes the feelings of wonder and awe we experienced when we explored East Africa for the first time some thirteen years ago: the sound of lions roaring just outside our tent, the taste of whiskeys beside the campfire, and the beauty of the equatorial sun…

The events of Sunday 12 August 2007 come frequently to mind: it was the day I came face to face with a poacher. Most people visit the Bangweulu Wetlands hoping to glimpse the elusive Shoebill. But I had other ideas. I wanted to see the area's endemic black lechwe. I'd read that there were huge herds of this handsome antelope on the floodplains. Flying over the spectacular Muchinga escarpment we saw the vast wetlands clotted with thousands of lechwe, looking, from this height, like swarms of ants. They were everywhere - whether on game drives, walks or on the water. They even made their presence felt when I was lying in bed, as I heard them whooshing through the waters to their feeding grounds in the mists of first light.…

Beauty smiles brightly, beaming with pride as she shows me around my room. This is no ordinary room — it’s one she’s hand-built with fellow camp assistants Eunice and Margaret, beautifully decorated and made of mud-brick walls, reed and thatch. But more than that, it represents the future in a new connection between communities, conservation and tourism deep in the bush of Gonarezhou. This remote national park in southeastern Zimbabwe is one of Africa’s last great wildernesses, with rivers sweeping through gorges and floodplains, forests of giant baobabs, lily-strewn pans — and the dramatic Chilojo Cliffs. It’s been through tough times, embroiled in the civil wars of both Zimbabwe and neighbouring Mozambique during the 1970s and ‘80s. Wildlife numbers plummeted, and it has since struggled under a dearth of resources.…

“Imagine travelling in a car as it gradually accelerates, speeding up from 30mph (48kmh) through to 60mph,” says Dr Sarah Durant of the Range Wide Conservation Program for Cheetah and Wild Dog. “Now picture a cheetah running alongside you. It is likely to quickly overtake, reaching 60mph in just three seconds. This incredible speed sets cheetahs apart from every other creature on Earth and underpins their unique role in the ecosystems where they live.” Durant’s evocative words form the opening to her contribution in Remembering Cheetahs, a book dedicated to raising awareness of the cheetah’s plight and also funds to protect it. But, while the cheetah may be the fastest land mammal in the world, it is running headlong towards extinction. Since 1900, the cheetah population has plummeted from 100,000…

EXCLUSIVELY FOR TRAVEL AFRICA, MANA MEADOWS SHARES HER EXPERIENCE Within the first twenty minutes of The Walk (in my mind it was always capitalised), most of my fears had already surfaced – weakness, injury, wildlife encounters… and needing my husband Matt’s help. I hadn’t yet mastered my new backpack, and superfluous khaki straps danced in the breeze. I felt like a walking wind chime: cameras, lenses, water bottle and even a folded photographic reflector swung offme like a giant cat’s toy. I once watched donkeys ferrying tourists up steep hills on the Greek island of Santorini, and I felt just like one of those pitiful creatures right now: overladen, over decorated, jingling, and prime steak destined for one of the lions which may well appear on this very game trail.…

Following the successful rehabilitation of Akagera National Park, the Rwanda Development Board has partnered with African Parks for the management of Nyungwe National Park. This montane forest, interspersed with marshland, is home to exceptional faunal and floral diversity, including 13 primate species (notably chimpanzees and the rare Hamlyn’s and L’Hoest’s monkey, pictured), more than 1000 plant, 90 mammal and 300 bird species. It is a critical catchment area, providing 70 per cent of Rwanda’s water. SUPPORTED BY AFRICAN WILDLIFE FOUNDATION AWF.ORG…

Before African alpine bamboo grows into the tall, verdant stands clustered across high mountain forests, providing food for gorillas, golden monkeys and other species, it is a fragile shoot from a seed so tiny it’s invisible to the naked eye. The young plants of Yushania alpina, ranging from 2-10cm tall, are called ‘wildings’. More than 20,000 of these shoots have been collected from Kenya’s Aberdare Range, raised in a holding nursery there until they were strong enough to be flown to a bamboo nursery in Kinigi, Rwanda. Their ultimate destination is Volcanoes National Park, where AWF and partners will plant the young bamboo trees to restore 27 hectares at the protected area’s edge. AWF donated this parcel of land to the Rwanda Development Board (RDB) in 2018 to expand habitat…

In this Covid-19 world we now live in, Africa’s safari lodges and camps have adopted stringent protocols, in line with government and health organisation guidelines, to help ensure your health and safety during your stay. As a general rule: STAFF WILL: • Receive training on cleaning and emergency protocols• Have easy access to soap and hand sanitisers• Wear masks and gloves• Have regular temperature checks• Enforce social distancing rules. BEST PRACTICES INCLUDE: • Staff and properties certified as compliant with regulatory requirements• Regular disinfecting of all hightouch areas and objects• Hand sanitiser easily accessible in public areas and vehicles• Prior to coming on duty, all staff are temperature checked and provided with a new mask and gloves• All guests have their temperature taken on arrival and given a mask, gloves…

Kenya was the first African country to implement a lockdown, in March. In taking a serious approach to protecting its citizens throughout the pandemic, the country has largely controlled the spread of the virus. So much so, it has (at the time of writing) recorded a relatively low figure of 1500 deaths to the disease. Elsewhere, Zambia’s and Zimbabwe’s reported Covid-19 death tolls are both below 400, while Botswana’s and Tanzania’s are less than 50. This begs the question: could this actually be the best time to travel to Africa? Bill Given, founder of The Wild Source, recently returned to the USA from Kenya. “As always, the safari was extraordinary and I found this to be the easiest travel experience I have ever had,” he reported. “Safety protocols are in…

Like us all, the travel trade has had a really tough time over the last year. Not all the companies who usually participate in the magazine have been able to do so, but we are listing all our regular advertisers in addition to those who are reaching out to you in this issue. We are so grateful for all their support over the years, and particularly in these circumstances. We hope that you, our readers, will prioritise these companies when researching your next safari. Please tell them you saw their advert in Travel Africa.…

An inspiring initiative in the Matobo Hills, in Zimbabwe, is having a dynamic impact on local villages and attracting attention from tourism. Every year after harvesting, the women decorate their huts with intricate designs using charcoal, ash, water and soil. Since 2014 an annual competition has sought to celebrate this fading tradition by rewarding the most beautiful home, and increasing numbers of homesteads now take part, with evermore complex decorations. The 2020 winner, Siphosethu Ndlovu, was chosen from over 800 entrants, and will build a hut at Rowallan Adventure Park in the National Park. Eco-tourism opportunities no doubt await. FOR MORE, VISIT WWW.EKHAYAGAIA.COM…

Haunted by the idea that lions may disappear from the planet in his children’s lifetime, Anthony Ham embarked on a series of journeys across Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana looking for stories that might provide an answer to a burning question: do we have room in our world for lions? The Last Lions of Africa tells five stories, those of: Cecil, the Zimbabwean lion king shot by a trophy-hunter; Lady Liuwa, the last lioness of western Zambia, who became a goddess to the local people; a Maasai warrior, who, after killing a lion found himself facing an existential crisis; the notorious man-eating lions of Tanzania; and a solo crossing of the Kalahari searching for its big cats. Then, there’s the tale of the author’s own experience at the paws…

“‘Go to Mali,” they said. “The music is amazing and you get ten hours of sunshine every day.” So I did,” says Rob Baker, explaining the inspiration for his latest book. Baker didn’t just go to Mali – he lived there for three years, travelling around the West African country and immersing himself in its music scene, even learning to play the 21-stringed kora. Along the way he also discovered how to deal with persistent street sellers, the correct way to use a long-drop toilet and made a 17-hour river journey on the roof of an oversized canoe. Toubab means ‘Westerner’. And this is his story.…

Straddling the Zambezi River between Zambia and Zimbabwe, the monumental Kariba Dam was a landmark in colonial engineering when it opened in 1960, providing electricity to an energy-starved region. It created the 280km-long Lake Kariba, still the world’s largest man-made body of water and a popular destination for houseboat holidays. This beautifully produced volume is a treasure trove of historical photos covering the dam’s construction and subsequent history, with anecdotal text highlighting significant events along the way – albeit told from a colonial perspective. A beautiful memento of one of Africa’s first modern mega-projects, though there’s little coverage of the development’s environmental and human costs.…

For the longest time tourism has been about travellers visiting places for entertainment, adventure and an exotic experience. It has been about certain groups of people carrying the responsibility for entertaining others; animals being peeled from their natural habitats to enchant humans who pay fortunes to be enticed. It has been about continuous consumption that never seems to replenish the world. In the name of tourism, communities have been corrupted and diluted, leaving cultures vulnerable to outside negative influences. So it is heartwarming to realise that tourism is becoming more about a cultural exchange, rather than being exploitative. Tourists are now visiting places to add value, while enjoying their adventure. Here in the remote Eastern Cape is an example of where this balance has been achieved, and is having wide…

Conservancies are private- or community-owned areas established to safeguard wildlife and allow the owners to derive benefit from these natural resources. In Kenya, they were officially recognised by the Wildlife Act of 2013, and they now represent over six million hectares – roughly 11 per cent of Kenya’s total land area, complementing national parks and reserves by extending the area under protection. With more than 60 per cent of Kenya’s wildlife found outside state-protected areas, conservancies play a critical role in conserving and reversing wildlife declines. They host 22 per cent of Kenya’s ungulate biomass and represent 18 of the 20 zones with the highest density of wildlife. Since the emergence of the first conservancies in the 1970s, they have grown in number and their institutional complexity has broadened beyond…

The Virunga Massif straddles Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It encompasses four national parks and is home to the last remaining mountain gorillas, whose numbers have risen from 240 in the 1980s to more than 1000 today. There are 30 habituated groups (12 in Uganda, ten in Rwanda, eight in the less-accessible DRC), with tourists having the opportunity to see them – under strictly controlled conditions – in their natural habitat. This is a conservation success story, but there is a long way to go. The mountain gorilla is still on the endangered list. The pressure on the tiny habitat (just 700 sq km) that supports the mountain gorillas is immense. “If you want to save the gorillas, focus on communities,” says Praveen Moman, founder of…

“Clementine is so elegant and she’s very special,” Dennis Minja told me. “But she’s not around very often.” The sole researcher for the Serengeti Cheetah Project, Dennis wasn’t eulogising about some elusive supermodel, but about a beautiful big cat he’s come to know and love through his work. “She was the first cheetah I ever saw, just sitting by a tree near our base on my first day in the job. She’s my favourite, but she’s away in the woodlands just now,” he said fondly. The Serengeti Cheetah Project (SCP), which started in 1974, is the world’s longest-running study of wild cheetahs. Today, it’s managed by the Zoological Society of London in partnership with the Wildlife Conservation Society. Their study area, taking in the Serengeti Plains and Ndutu, is home…

When: 17 days from 27 July to 13 August, 2020 Distance: 350km Where: From North Luangwa National Park to Sungani, the southernmost camp in South Luangwa National Park. The Walk traversed three national parks and four Game Management Areas (GMAs). It was divided informally into two parts: the camping component (eight nights) between North Luangwa National Park, Luambe National Park and various GMAs, and the lodge component (eight nights) in South Luangwa National Park, where the team were graciously hosted by lodges and camps along the Luangwa River. Special thanks to Luambe Camp, Remote Africa Safaris, Chiawa Safaris, Time+Tide, Shenton Safaris, The Bushcamp Company, Kafunta Safaris and Sungani Camp. Why: To raise funds and awareness for the communities, conservation organisations and wildlife of the Luangwa Valley that have been affected…

JOHN KAMANGA Founder of South Rift Association of Land Owners (SORALO), Kenya WINNER: THE TUSK AWARD FOR CONSERVATION IN AFRICA, SPONSORED BY LAND ROVER John Kamanga lives in two worlds. One is that of the traditional Maasai, into which he was born and bred. The other is the modern academic world, as a graduate holding Community Development and Anthropology degrees. It’s his innate ability to combine these two worlds that is helping to create a collaborative coexistence of both wildlife conservation and pastoralist tradition in today’s complex natural landscape. Most of Kenya’s wildlife lives outside protected areas, making it increasingly vulnerable to human encroachment and conflict. The vast fence-free rangelands and community forests spanning 10,000 sq km between the Maasai Mara and Amboseli form a vital wildlife corridor between the…

Having analysed what measures airlines and airports around the world have implemented in response to the Covid-19 pandemic, the Flight Safety Foundation (FSF) has declared that any risks to passengers are “very low”. Speaking to livestream.travel, Dr Hassan Shahidi, president and chief executive of FSF – an independent non-profit aviation safety organisation – confirmed that there had been very few cases of verified transmissions onboard aircraft and that it was “safe to fly”, as long as passengers followed “the golden rules” of hygiene and mask wearing. The vast majority of aircraft are equipped with high-efficiency particulate air (Hepa) filters. This, said Shahidi, combined with common-sense hygiene and deep-cleaning procedures, delivered a layered approach to “minimise the risk of transmission and to kill the virus”. With regular Covid testing of crew…

If you’re enjoying reading Travel Africa, and you like to explore Africa in depth, in your own time, why not subscribe and we’ll deliver a lot more of the world’s most exciting continent directly to you, four times a year. Each issue tends to be at least 144 pages, packed with features to inspire your future safaris and give you greater insight to the wildlife, places and people that draw you there. PRINT + DIGITAL To subscribe to the print magazine, visit travelafricamag.com/subscribe or call +44 (0)1844 278883 service@travelafricamag.com DIGITAL ONLY Travel Africa is available for your tablet, smartphone or desktop from zinio.com, pocketmags.com or your App Store (all platforms) UBUNTU LISTINGS We’ve been so inspired by the many projects and initiatives that support communities and conservation across Africa that…

There are 2 easy ways to receive Travel Africa. Which format is best for you? PRINT + DIGITAL ⋆ Have each issues posted through your door in high quality print; great to flick through and explore! ⋆ Flipbook version emailed to you to read online DIGITAL ONLY ⋆ Instant access to the magazine as soon as it’s published. ⋆ Read the magazine on your tablet, desktop or smartphone. ⋆ App is free to download. In-app purchase of individual issues, or take out a subscription. ⋆ Page view replicates of the print version and a mobile-friendly digital version makes for easy reading. Available from zinio.com, pocketmags.com or your App Store *App and print edition are not linked. Separate purchases are required travelafricamag.com/subscribe | +44 (0)1844 278883 | service@travelafricamag.com…

Now and again a book comes along that breaks the mould and sets new standards for avid naturalists. This is not a field guide. Instead it is something infinitely more ambitious – the whole of Africa’s avian diversity distilled into 544 pages of encyclopaedic knowledge. Covering 2,792 African bird species spread across 68 territories, this is the ultimate bible for the serious lister. Compiled by an author with 25 years of experience in the region, it tells you exactly where and when to find them, everything from grail species such as shoebills and pittas to the ever-present residents of the open savannahs. Its country-by-country summaries are invaluable and pull no punches when it comes to safety. Indeed, rather than track down endemics in Somalia or DR Congo, wise readers may…

The only dedicated wildlife guide to the region, Mammals of Ethiopia, Eritrea, Djibouti and Somalia is powerpacked with facts about the Horn of Africa’s diverse fauna. These countries are home to many of the continent’s most iconic species, including lion, leopard, cheetah, hippo and giraffe, although for seasoned wildlife enthusiasts it’s the smaller and rarer endemics which are the real draw. These include unique species ranging from the Ethiopian wolf (the world’s rarest canid) to the bat-eared fox and the critically endangered African wild ass, all brought to life through top-quality photos. There’s also good practical information on the best wildlife-watching areas plus coverage of the Horn’s varied habitats, ranging from the tablelands of the East African Rift Valley to the arid expanses of the Danakil Depression and Afar Desert.…

With its dramatically sculpted rock formations and magical profusion of ancient cave art, Matobo Hills is one of Zimbabwe’s most scenic and culturally absorbing areas. It is disappointing, therefore, that you don’t get enough of that atmosphere in these pages. With its detailed focus on the region’s rich flora and fauna, this is more an academic resource for dedicated scientists and naturalists than it is a source of inspiration or information for the casual visitor. The info is there; it just needs to be more easily accessible.…

Spotting a solitary young female puku, the pack of wild dogs made their move. They were soon running at full speed; the buck jumping spectacularly to clear the low-growing vegetation in her path as she fled. She reached the Luangwa River, with the dogs still hot on her tail. There was at least a 6m drop into the water, but, without breaking stride, the puku leapt in. The dogs could only watch in disbelief as their prey swam out of reach. The drama wasn't over, however. A crocodile headed straight towards the antelope, attacking her from the rear. But she fought gallantly and continued to swim towards a break in the riverbank. some 10m away. A larger croc joined the pursuit and the younger one, possibly in fear of becoming…

On an afternoon drive, our open Land Cruiser bounced between sightings. We stopped to admire a lion. His scarred face and blunt teeth implied years of struggle for dominance in Mozambique’s Gorongosa National Park. This old cat would have witnessed much of the incredible revival unfolding here at the southern terminus of the Great Rift Valley. Gorongosa has recovered from a wasteland to a paradise described by legendary biologist E O Wilson as the most ecologically diverse park in the world. Seeing it with my own eyes was a dream. We traversed fever tree forests, golden in the afternoon light. Elephants sauntered through atmospheric ana tree woodlands. Open floodplains bustled with waterbuck — I would say countless, but, in fact, they have been counted; there are 55,000. We wound through…

We have spent thousands of hours over more than a decade photographing some of the most remote and spectacular wilderness areas of southern Africa from the air. We have left our hearts in so many places, but one of our most profound experiences has been flying over and photographing the Namib desert. To us, Namibia is the most beautiful place on Earth; a place of zen lines, shifting sands and endless skies… a vast world that lies at the end of all roads, and an entry point into an immense well of space, infinite richness, beauty and complexity. Flying over this grand solitude arouses deep emotions, as it is a powerful glimpse into an ancient world. It has given us the opportunity to contemplate realms larger than ourselves, marvel at…

BENSON KANYEMBO Law Enforcement Advisor, Conservation South Luangwa (CSL), 2019 Tusk Award winner “South Luangwa is my home. This is my paradise. I am who I am because of the natural resources that are found in this valley… Right now because of Covid-19 there are thousands of people that are not employed. But if we take [our wildlife] now we will lose everything, and the whole valley will die. These people will die. Suffering will go up. So this valley is my life. It is my God. This is my livelihood… so I have to do the best that I can to protect it, for myself, not only for the future generations. Even just for me.” THANDIWE MWEETWA Senior Ecologist and Project Manager Luangwa, Zambian Carnivore Programme “When we think…

How much is a lion worth? Or a gorilla, an elephant, a whale shark? It might seem an odd question, especially to those of us who love Africa’s wildlife for its own sake. A picture might be worth a thousand words, but a photo of a cheetah atop a termite mound, or a black rhino amid South African scrub, can’t be priced in mere dollars and cents. Yet the idea is particularly pertinent at the moment, as the financial impact of the Covid-19 crisis becomes more apparent. Alongside the wider costs of tackling the pandemic, resulting in budget deficits for governments worldwide, the loss of revenue from Africa’s decimated tourism industry – much of which funds wildlife conservation, particularly in protected areas – is potentially devastating for the continent’s nature.…

There are 2 easy ways to receive Travel Africa. Which format is best for you? PRINT + DIGITAL ★ Have each issues posted through your door in high quality print; great to flick through and explore! ★ Flipbook version emailed to you to read online DIGITAL ONLY ★ Instant access to the magazine as soon as it’s published. ★ Read the magazine on your tablet, desktop or smartphone. ★ App is free to download. In-app purchase of individual issues, or take out a subscription. ★ Page view replicates of the print version and a mobile-friendly digital version makes for easy reading. Available from zinio.com, pocketmags.com or your App Store *App and print edition are not linked. Separate purchases are required. travelafricamag.com/subscribe | +44 (0)1844 278883 | service@travelafricamag.com…

In terms of Covid-19, Africa has been one of the least affected continents with, to date, less than 4 per cent of all cases globally. And while strict lockdowns were enforced initially, over the last couple of months governments across the continent have been gradually re-opening their borders and starting to welcome international visitors once again. This news has come as welcome relief for businesses throughout Africa which, without government support, had been left wondering how long they would need to survive with no income and no end in sight for the tourist drought. Tourism across Africa supports a large and interconnected network of individuals, with an estimated 250 million people dependent on income derived from the sector. A typical lodge also supports the healthcare and educational needs of their…

Even this mountain gorilla – photographed by Marcus Westberg in the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Uganda – seemed to feel the pressure in what was a really challenging year for us all. The image was a finalist entry in the Comedy Wildlife Photography Awards, which aims to provide some light-hearted relief while encouraging us all to engage in conservation, be it through responsible shopping, nurturing wildlife at home or supporting organisations that help to protect our natural world. See all winners and finalists at www.comedywildlifephoto.com…