Innholdsfortegnelse for April-June 2018 i Travel Africa

1 RWANDA: “LAND OF A THOUSAND HILLS” VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK Visiting the mountain gorillas in Volcanoes NP is one of the most awesome wildlife experiences in the world. Spanning 160 sq km of the Virunga conservation region, it harbours 178 bird species (including at least 29 endemics) and wildlife including spotted hyena, buffalo, elephant, black-fronted duiker, bushbuck, golden monkey and — the flagship attraction — ten habituated gorilla groups. 2 NYUNGWE FOREST NATIONAL PARK Nyungwe Forest is the largest montane forest in Central Africa, home to 13 species of primates including chimpanzees and the largest grouping of black and white colobus monkeys in Africa. It has a rich variety of birds, flora and other fauna, which can be viewed from an impressive canopy walkway. Nyungwe is Rwanda’s most important area…

WHY VISIT? The size of Switzerland, and four times larger than the Serengeti, Selous Game Reserve is an immense area of protected wilderness that has remained untouched for millions of years. The reserve is the largest protected wet wilderness area in Africa, covering a total area of 54,600 sq km. Known for its lakes, rivers and bush experience, Selous was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982 due the diversity of its wildlife and undisturbed nature. It is abundant with animals and little visited by tourists, compared to the northern parks. WHAT TO SEE? Scenery Rolling savannah, riverine forest, hot volcanic springs, networks of channels and lagoons, lakes and the Rufiji River – which attracts hordes of animals in the dry season – provide a rich mix for the…

My very close friend and I recently travelled through the breathtaking beauty of Botswana. Both of us had some incredible times experiencing the mighty savannahs of East Africa in 2013 and the overwhelming vastness of the south-western Namib Desert in 2014. It all started with a little curiosity — not knowing exactly what to expect and instantly falling in love with Africa’s nature. It is this place that established the true bond of our friendship that will last a lifetime. This continent let our friendship grow and blossom, and shifted each of our perspectives deeply. It is a place I will visit as often as possible; a place where my soul becomes soaked in incomparable beauty. Here, I share with you a couple of peak wilderness moments, in which both…

AUGRABIES FALLS NATIONAL PARK Covering an area of 820 sq km, the park stretches along the Orange River, centring around an awe-inspiring 60m-high waterfall. The gorge below the falls plummets some 240m and runs for 18km. Augrabies offers an ancient landscape that will take you back to the time of the first hunter-gatherers. And just as they did, you can see klipspringer, springbok, kudu and the like grazing – all the while keeping alert for predators such as leopard, jackal and the African wild cat. TANKWA-KAROO NATIONAL PARK Greyish-green foliage merges with the browns of this semi-desert that is the Karoo, as the landscape reaches towards the many table-like mesas and isolated buttes that rise from the dusty earth. Wildlife includes mongoose, porcupine and duiker, while leopard and black-backed jackal…

THE WORLD’S MOST-TRAFFICKED mammal is not the charismatic elephant, majestic rhino or even an exotic monkey. It is a species that many people have never heard of — the pangolin. Pangolins, the world's only genuinely scaly mammal, are nocturnal, shy creatures that reside in Africa and Asia. There are four African species, all of which the International Union for the Conservation of Nature classifies as "vulnerable to extinction" in its Red List of Threatened Species. A study released in 2017 showed that between 400,000 and 2.7 million pangolins are hunted annually in Central Africa. [The staggering numbers did not even include Africa’s most common pangolin species, the Cape or Ground pangolin (Smutsia temminckii), also heavily hunted, but found in southern and eastern Africa.] The study found that more than half…

150-200K Daily attendance at Beijing Zoo, which — thanks to a partnership with AWF — will help to reduce illegal trade in African wildlife products. FRESH ON THE HEELS of shutting down its domestic ivory trade — a significant milestone in the fight to protect elephants — China has made another commitment to Africa’s wildlife. On Jan. 22 the Beijing Zoo joined AWF in a partnership to increase awareness and thus reduce illegal trade in wildlife products throughout China. Every day, up to 200,000 people visit the Beijing Zoo, the largest zoo in China and one of the oldest. This massive audience represents a tremendous opportunity to raise general consciousness of the threats facing Africa's wildlife and the role China can play in overcoming them. Asian consumers' desire for wildlife…

AWF’s work with gorillas began approximately 50 years ago when we helped fund Dian Fossey’s now-famous study of mountain gorillas in the Virunga mountains. Her years of research, before her life was cut short, would shed light on many important aspects of gorilla life and behavior — and thus inform the development of critical conservation efforts. “I have become well acquainted with many of the gorillas, and they with me,” Fossey would write in National Geographic magazine. “They roam the mountain slopes and saddles in groups, and several groups now accept my presence almost as a member. I can approach to within a few feet of them… One has even played with the laces on my boots, though I have a feeling that he did not suspect that the boots…

In the remote Virunga Mountains of East Africa, the reclusive mountain gorilla roams the slopes of ancient volcanoes. Tourists travel hundreds of miles to catch a glimpse of these gentle giants, whose population in recent decades has steadily climbed upwards from near extinction and now hovers around 1,000. Experienced and trained gorilla guides lead groups and individuals into the hills of Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park to encounter these incredible and graceful primates. Gorilla trekking has become a lucrative tourist attraction; visitors pay thousands of dollars for the chance to come face-to-face with these majestic mountain gorillas. Nestled in the foothills of Volcanoes, Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge is a luxury conservation lodge tailored towards gorilla-based tourism. It is aptly named after adult male gorillas, known as silverbacks, as well as the nearby…

I believe that each of us can be judged by our respect and compassion for all sentient beings. I have always loved animals and would live on a farm filled with dogs, cats and donkeys if I could. Instead, my husband, Bob Berkowitz, and I, along with DJ, our large orange tabby cat, divide our time between Manhattan and Shelter Island, New York. We will soon be joined by a Lagotto Romagnolo puppy. The breed is known for the ability to get along well with both animals and children, and I plan for us to work with young people having difficulties learning to read. CHARITABLE THOUHTS After a 25-year-career as a retailing executive, in 2001 I returned to school to get a graduate degree in Food Studies and Nutrition. I…

Most Travel Africa readers love Africa and all she offers; her diverse landscapes, enthralling wildlife, delightful people, enviable climate… and the way of life she offers. Perhaps part of the reason we visit as often as we can is to reconnect with the spirit of this ancient land, to feel the dust on our feet, smell the rain, watch the sun set over endless wilderness and sit around a campfire losing ourselves in the dreams of a million stars. No doubt a passion for her wildlife has grown into a deep desire to help protect our endangered species, while appreciating the role that tourism clearly plays in the development of local communities. There are many reasons people fall in love with Africa, and keep returning. Certainly these are some of…

Picture an empty road following the gorge edge, with enticing side tracks leading to lookouts and waterfalls. Located in the Drakensberg, the Panorama Route is one of the most beautiful drives not only in Africa but the whole world Imagine the Grand Canyon with forests and waterfalls. This is Blyde River Canyon, a spectacular chasm at the northern end of South Africa’s Drakensberg escarpment in Mpumalanga Province. Now, picture a winding, empty road following the gorge edge, with enticing side tracks leading to lookouts and waterfalls… On the edge of the town of Sabie, the road rises, lined with flowering jacaranda trees. But my eyes are fixed on a brown road sign: ‘THE PANORAMA’. I have a frisson of anticipation. I’m finally on the Panorama Route. Located in the northern…

Although my [time in Zambia] comfortably sit[s] in my top five African experiences, I have merely scratched the surface of what it has to offer. To truly get under its skin requires the knowledge of experts Deep in the Luangwa Valley, we lie in wait, engine switched off. To our right, two buffalo are on the lookout while the rest of the herd seeks cover among the trees. They can smell danger. To our left, three lionesses creep stealthily through the scrub, slowly spreading out, as they ready themselves for a three-pronged attack. One starts to move more quickly, passing directly in front of us. She’s momentarily out in the open but quickly blends back into the undergrowth, unseen. The buffalo sentries stand stock-still, remaining on their guard. Then the…

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in south-western Uganda is renowned for being home to half the world’s population of majestic mountain gorillas, attracting thousands of visitors every year and millions of dollars in tourist revenue. But the region is also home to communities still living in poverty despite that tourism influx. On a recent visit, I wanted to explore Bwindi beyond the gorillas and met three inspiring ladies working to improve the lives of local people. Women, in particular, have a raw deal here, bearing the burden of bringing up the family, tending the fields and putting food on the table. They’ve had little opportunity to empower themselves through education or earning an income in these traditional, male-dominated cultures. But, thanks to projects such as these, times are changing: women are…

Mountain gorillas are the only great ape species experiencing a population rise, a model conservation success. But we must not lose sight of the fact that they are still the world’s most endangered ape. About 1000 remain today, living in only two places – the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda and the Virunga massif, which extends into Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Thankfully, this still vulnerable sub-species got a measure of added protection early in 2018 when AWF donated land to expand habitat in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park in the Virungas. Although it only covers 160 square kilometres, Volcanoes is a national treasure, attracting tourists from all over the world. Most are interested in the area’s unique gorilla treks. After hiking the misty mountains, one comes face-to-face…

WHY VISIT? Home to some of Africa’s best wildlife, dramatic landscapes, a rich and colourful culture and beautiful Indian-Ocean beaches, Kenya is the ideal destination for first timers, honeymooners, families and seasoned safari hands alike. The big game-rich Masai Mara attracts all the attention, but the country is dotted with pioneering wildlife conservancies, as well as a host of beautiful national parks. HIGHLIGHTS: There’s so much to do in Kenya, but with limited time, we reckon the following should be on your list: Masai Mara • Drive off road and explore on foot in one of the adjoining conservancies • Wake up to spectacular Out of Africa views at Angama Mara • Get close to the action of the Great Migration with a spotter and guide Laikipia • Stay at…

The latest conservation and project updates from across Africa The newest anti-poaching patrols set to be deployed in Botswana are a little different than typical rangers; these four-legged creatures rely on their extraordinary sense of smell to get the job done. Through AWF’s Canines for Conservation program, skilled sniffer detection dogs are deployed at ports and border crossings throughout Africa to bust smugglers carrying wildlife contraband. In December 2017, 10 dogs and 15 canine handlers graduated from training school in Botswana. These highly qualified dogs underwent nearly two-and-a-half months of intensive training during which they were taught to sniff out and detect contraband such as ivory and pangolin scales. They can sniff out the tiniest amounts, even traces of ivory or rhino horn dust. The dogs were paired with dedicated…

While some African countries have seen poaching rates stabilize or even decline in the last few years, the need to fight poaching remains urgent, and statistical projections are grim. As you can see in this graph (right), the fate of rhinos seems dire. AWF’s poaching visualization, using data from poachingfacts.com, suggests rhino poaching could increase by about 350 percent between 2015 and 2030. To fight poaching, AWF implements a three-pronged anti-poaching strategy: stop the killing, stop the trade, stop the demand. While we see successes — such as 11 of 11 rhino populations that we protect in Africa stable or increasing — there are many more populations in need of our support. We must continue our concerted efforts without letting up for a minute.…

People around the world are mourning the loss of Sudan, the world’s last male northern white rhino. He died March 19 at the Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya, which is supported by AWF. Sudan was being treated for age-related complications that led to a degeneration of muscle and bone combined with extensive skin wounds. In his last 24 hours, he couldn’t stand and was suffering a great deal. The veterinary team from the Dvur Králové Zoo, Ol Pejeta and Kenya Wildlife Service decided it was best to euthanize him. Sudan, who lived under armed guard as a protection against poachers, leaves behind the last two female northern white rhinos — his daughter Najin and her daughter, Fatu. The only hope for the preservation of this subspecies now is the development of…

Mountain gorillas are the only great ape species experiencing a population rise, a model conservation success. But we must not lose sight of the fact that they are still the world’s most endangered ape. About 1,000 remain today, living in only two places — the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda and the Virunga massif, which extends into Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Thankfully, this still vulnerable sub-species got a measure of added protection early in 2018 when AWF donated land to expand habitat in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park in the Virungas. Although it only covers 160 square kilometers, Volcanoes is a national treasure, attracting tourists from all over the world. Most are interested in the area’s unique gorilla treks. After hiking the misty mountains, one comes face-to-face…

PETITION Urge China to help save the pangolin CHINA HAS BANNED all trade in pangolins. But the demand and trade persist, in part because China's government hasn't worked to educate consumers that pangolin scales, as with rhino horn, are made of keratin — meaning, zero medicinal value. You can help scale back pangolin trafficking by urging the Chinese government to denounce the use of pangolin scales in Chinese medicine unequivocally. Pangolins have scales with sharp edges and curl up into a ball to protect themselves against natural predators. But when it comes to poachers, they virtually defenseless. Visit awf.org/scaling-back to be their defenders. Lend your voice to the fight to protect pangolins! WEB GATHER YOUR HERD: FUNDRAISE FOR WILDLIFE You love wildlife. Did you know you can start your own…

I have spent the past four years working on the ‘In the Footsteps of Giants’ project, whereby I have enjoyed hundreds of hours with elephants. I have flown over wild country looking for giant tuskers in Kenya and I have descended into an extinct volcano in Tanzania in pursuit of these majestic beasts. I have been to the Congo Basin and the Skeleton Coast of Namibia in search of both forest and desert elephant. I have also traversed the Zambezi Valley photographing on foot and even from boat and canoe, all in search of my behemoth subjects. It has been a spellbinding journey, and now that I have this body of work, I hope to share it with a wider audience so that these photographs can help ensure that elephants…

We take a slow drive in the boat through the channels, stopping often to peer through binoculars at tiny, hovering kingfishers and long-legged African spoonbills sweeping the pools Three African skimmers perform graceful swoops and pirouettes as we approach the lodge. Perfectly streamlined, with long, elegant, red beaks and legs, they look like dancers practising their routines. Hippos honk noisily as we disembark on the private island and settle in for tea on the deck. As squadrons of ducks, herons and other waterbirds fly home to roost, we too head ‘home’ to our spacious villas at Cascade Island Lodge — each with a huge bathroom, plunge pool, outdoor shower and deck hidden within the Chobe waterberry and jackalberry trees — for a bit of down time before regrouping for a…

“Business is low and slow but we now have high hopes for our future,” beams Leon Suragi, a stone and metal craftsman plying his trade at a popular curio market along Enterprise Road, one of Harare’s main arteries. Sporting a clean but frayed shirt emblazoned with ‘I am Zimbo’ and exuding an air of determined confidence, Suragi neatly encapsulates the prevalent atmosphere in Zimbabwe’s capital: one of cautious optimism. “Things have definitely improved this year, people are spending more money because they are happier with the current situation. This is the way it must be for the future to get better,” says Moses Sigauke, who sells his handmade teak frames, chopping boards and jewellery boxes at a farmers’ market frequented by diplomats and tourists. Although the ‘new dispensation’ seems to…

Having seen off a smaller — but still enormous — bull, alpha elephant Jager made a beeline for a young female on heat and mounted her without preamble. Their far-fromprivate coupling was over as quickly as it began, but the rest of the herd continued to circle them, ears flapping, trumpeting loudly with excitement, while our small group sat awestruck and speechless in the midst of this tumultuous celebration. It was a spectacular finale to our morning in Samburu National Reserve in northern Kenya. “Sit quietly,” whispered Bernard, our Samburu guide, “and they’ll come to us.” And they did — the fuzzy-haired, week-old calf that stood under its mother’s stomach to feed, two teenagers engaged in a play fight and the testosterone-fuelled male in musth that came a little too…

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Wildlife crimes are too often treated as petty crimes; offenders avoid serious jail time and receive small fines or sentences of community service. Thanks to AWF’s wildlife judicial sensitization trainings, that is beginning to change. AWF conducts judicial and prosecutorial trainings to close gaps in the systems that may hamper wildlife law enforcement and prosecution in African countries. These gaps include lack of awareness about the socioeconomic impacts of wildlife crimes, failure of different sectors — investigative, prosecutorial and judicial — to coordinate efforts, and in some cases a failure to prosecute criminals under all applicable laws. To date, more than 825 law enforcement, prosecution and judicial personnel have participated in the workshops. The sensitization efforts appear to be paying off. For example, as of early 2018, the conviction rate…

The Tanzania Wildlife Authority auctioned 3.5 tons of hippopotamus teeth in late January. Although the teeth came from hippos that died of natural causes or conflicts with humans, and the money raised reportedly will be funneled into conservation efforts, many in the conservation world expressed concern about the sale. These critics worry the sale could boost the illegal ivory market, primarily because trade bans have made it harder to smuggle elephant ivory. Similar concerns came up during last year's rhino horn auction in South Africa because research has shown that even one-off legal sales correlate to an increase in poaching, in part by renewing interest and upping demand. Also, poachers may see legal sales as an opportunity to mix illicit goods into the legal marketplace. AWF COO Jeff Chrisfield remarked:…

The conservation world scored a massive win for elephants when earlier this year legislators in both China and Hong Kong voted to close down ivory markets. The ivory trade has decimated African elephant populations; poachers kill as many as 30,000 elephants each year for their tusks. Where a 1969 population census showed as many as 1.3 million elephants roaming the plains and forests of Africa, today there are fewer than 415,000 African elephants. Noting a population loss of roughly 8 percent every year, the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) labels these majestic species as “vulnerable.” China took action to stop the illicit trade by implementing a complete ban on the country’s domestic ivory trade, one year after pledging to do so. Since the original announcement in 2016,…

Volcanoes National Park has been an AWF priority landscape for species protection, with our early conservation interventions helping to mitigate the threats facing critically endangered mountain gorillas. When in January AWF handed over a piece of land to expand the habitat for the gorillas, nearly 2,000 people — including community members, conservationists, and country officials — gathered at the foothills of the Virunga Mountains in Kinigi. They celebrated a dual victory for conservation: the gradual recovery of the mountain gorilla underlines Rwanda’s commitment in recent decades to protecting its natural environment. With the historic expansion of Africa’s oldest national park, the nation signals an alternative future for the continent — one in which it is possible to support a robust economy and maintain biodiversity at the same time.…