Innholdsfortegnelse for January-March 2017 i Travel Africa

Song and dance In this picture, the beautiful Turkana are gathered at Kenya’s Marsabit-Lake Turkana Cultural Festival. The event was started as a way to unite people throughout the region and promote peace between them. Once a year, as many as 14 tribes and ethnic groups assemble along the lakeshores in a kaleidoscope of colour, dressed in their most elaborate clothing, beading, head ornaments and paint made from red ochre. Everyone comes together to play traditional instruments, sing and dance for hours at a time. It is a magical experience. Piper Mackay organises tours and workshops in various African destinations, including Lake Turkana. For further information, visit pipermackayphotography.com/programs.…

1 Emma Gregg Zimbabwe, page 82 “Mana Pools’ elephants are magnificent. Once, while we were canoeing, a family group crossed the Zambezi just a few metres away from us, snorkelling with their trunks. At last they reached the shallows and the water fell away from their huge, wet bodies, leaving their skin as dark and glossy as varnished wood. Watching them from the river was simply wonderful.” Emma is a former Editor of Travel Africa and has written several Rough Guides. 2 Gabriella Mulligan Kenya, page 126 “We scoured the landscape for the lions with binoculars for over an hour, but eventually gave up. Just down the road we passed another car whose passengers told us the pride had been metres behind us. They had tried to tell us, but…

MUST-READ This book by Vernon RL Head is a fast-paced true adventure story of four men exploring the Ethiopian wilderness in search of the elusive Nechisar nightjar.…

1 TOUR SWAKOPMUND BY BIKE The Bavarian-style town of Swakopmund is surrounded by sand and a great way to explore the dunes is on a fat-wheel bike. Wide tyres handle the sand brilliantly and daring riders can tackle some monster dunes. HOW TO BOOK Pedal your way through the dunes with Swakopmund Fat Bike Tours. swakopfatbiketours.com 2 MAKE THE JUMP Terminal velocity doesn’t agree with everyone, but if you really want to push your limits, a skydive is a great way to appreciate the views around Swakopmund. HOW TO BOOK Ground Rush Adventures offers tandem skydives and is one of the largest operations of its kind on the continent. skydiveswakop.com 3 TAKE ON THE DUNES Cutting through the desert on a quad bike is a great family adventure option; however,…

What was your childhood like? I was born in Bunia, a small city in the northeast of the DRC. We moved between many provinces as a child, as my father used to work for a tobacco company. I lived in a good environment and had a happy family life. What inspired you to be a chef? My mother encouraged me. She used to say: “Olivier, one day you will become a great chef and own your own restaurant.” What has your career involved? It has been great so far by the grace of God. I’ve been lucky enough to work at many places — from Greens on Park in Cape Town to Mon Plaisir in Franschhoek, and now at Rhino Ridge in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve. Has food always been your…

In 2008 I started leading group tours from Cape Town to Livingstone for a Dutch company. What I remember most is something I saw on my first trip. Strangely enough, this wasn’t Table Mountain, the Namib Desert or even the mighty Victoria Falls; it was a piece of paper left in the overland truck we had hired for a tour. Written on this was the outline of a 56-day trip from Nairobi to Cape Town. Years later, I caught myself thinking often about that itinerary, so much so that one day I looked it up online and booked myself a place. Finally I was going back to Africa to go camping! And the best part was that this time I would be the tourist. In a surprisingly beautiful Nairobi, I…

SACRED NATURE: LIFE’S ETERNAL DANCE JONATHAN AND ANGELA SCOTT This work of staggering beauty showcases the life’s work and extraordinary talents of the couple that have become synonymous with African wildlife. The book is a largeformat hardcover full of spectacular monochrome images that capture the African bush at its most exquisite. WILD SAVANNAH NEIL ROBINS This tells the adventures of two safari guides who have been best friends since their early days at school. They both have a passion and abiding love for Africa — its culture and its wildlife. This is their opportunity to pass on their knowledge and experiences of the bush to others. EVERYDAY AFRICA VARIOUS This book is the result of an acclaimed social media project, which aimed to showcase the beauty of ordinary life in…

Part of Africa invites you to become a co-owner of a unique private game reserve in the Tuli Block in Botswana. By becoming a co-owner, you will experience the freedom of exploring a magical private game reserve at your own pace, from your own dream lodge, while contributing to the preservation of the wilderness and the wildlife it sustains – thereby ensuring you will leave a legacy for future generations. THE RESERVE Part of Africa is a 20,500ha private reserve located in the 300,000ha Tuli Block, located in southeastern Botswana, a safe country with a stable economy. The reserve is just 450km from Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International Airport – an easy 5-or 6-hour drive or a short flight to our newly-created airstrip. The reserve is fully-fenced, with a 14km Limpopo…

The steep eastern escarpment of the Udzungwas rose everhigher on our right, cloaked in a dense, sweet-smelling, closed canopy of giant trees, waterfalls cascading prettily down the exposed rock faces We’d already skirted the rainshadowed north-western side of the Udzungwas along the Great Ruaha River gorge coming up the Tanzam Highway from Ruaha National Park. The deliciously moist and brilliantly green tree canopy had looked cool and inviting, especially after our hot and dusty game drives along the park’s dry sand rivers. So we ventured to the Udzungwa Mountains as part of our self-drive safari of Tanzania’s ‘southern circuit’ — the Selous, Ruaha and Mikumi. It was a chance to get out of the vehicle and stretch our legs, enjoy the fresh air and beautiful forest and perhaps see an…

SUPPORTED BY AFRICAN WILDLIFE FOUNDATION AWF.ORG Something to trumpet about The Selous Game Reserve in Tanzania has experienced a crisis in recent years, with the elephant population in rapid decline due to the brutal evolution of poaching in the area. Home to 74,000 elephants in 2006, a census undertaken by Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute revealed that in 2013 the number of pachyderms had reached a low of 13,000. Last year, however, hope was reborn with reports that the population had risen again to 15,000, an increase of a little over 15 per cent. The beginnings of this reversal are due to the remarkable efforts of Tanzania’s Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism (MNRT) and the Police Force’s National and Transnational Serious Crime Unit (NTSCIU), which have been responsible for heightening…

The answer is, of course, migration. Forget wildebeest: those lumbering herbivores have nothing on the mass feathered invasion that every autumn sees one and a half billion birds from across Europe and western Asia travel south to Africa. By the time they reach their warm winter retreat a few weeks later, most will have covered thousands of kilometres. And, what’s more, by February or March, most will be on their way back again. Hundreds of different species make the journey. Many are small, insect-eating songbirds, such as warblers, wheatears and flycatchers. These minuscule nomads binge-feed before departure then move fast and directly, relying on their fat reserves to see them through. Larger birds, such as storks and eagles, travel more slowly, using thermals to lift them over sea crossings or…

CONSERVATION: AWF BULLETIN SUPPORTED BY AFRICAN WILDLIFE FOUNDATION It wasn’t so long ago that scientists believed there was only one species of giraffe, with nine subspecies scattered across the African continent. In fact, this was the prevailing wisdom until less than six months ago… when researchers announced new data suggesting giraffes should be categorised into four distinct species: the northern giraffe, southern giraffe, Masai giraff e and reticulated giraff e. The findings were the result of a collaborative effort between the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF) and Dr Axel Janke of Germany’s Biodiversity and Climate Research Centre. The distinction between a species and subspecies is rooted in genetics. While the ‘subspecies’ label denotes consistent, but relatively minor, genetic variance between groups of the same species, the assignment of a new species…

NEWS ON THE BUSHWIRE Grey crownedcranes in crisis Conservationists hope to save this endangered bird in Rwanda, as local people, who sell them for domestication in Kigali, poach them from the wild. “When I was growing up I used to see cranes in wetlands but when I became an adult, I started seeing them at hotels and in people’s homes, and realised that they could become extinct if nothing was done,” said Dr Olivier Nsengimana, founder of the Rwanda Crane and Wetland Conservation Project. JEAN AFADHALI Tune in to Africa The Africa Show, aired on the award-winning Colourful Radio, is making waves this year. Launched last May, it offers inspiration and insights on travelling in Africa. The hosts Lyande Kaikai and Yolisa Segone (above), both seasoned travellers of the continent,…

Despite the threat posed by cross-border conflict, Daniel Wheeler encourages us to go to Africa’s oldest independent country Some remote areas of Ethiopia require a degree of caution to ensure safe travel. Unrest earlier in 2016 in the Amhara and Oromia regions led to the government declaring a state of emergency. Measures included periodic blocking of internet and 3G networks. Border districts with neighbouring South Sudan, Somalia, Sudan and Eritrea should be avoided due to the ongoing cross-border conflict. Nevertheless, overall, crime levels in Ethiopia remain very low and visitors will enjoy a warm welcome to one of the continent’s most culturally diverse countries THORNTREE HEALTH & SAFETY WHAT IS SLEEPING SICKNESS? Ben West explains the likelihood of contracting the disease, the most common areas for transmission and the symptoms…

Looking for more of Africa’s best walking destinations? Below are another 10 places that didn’t quite make the cut: ■ Uganda’s Bwindi National Park is a topnotch gorilla-tracking destination, offering plenty of opportunities for forest hikes. ■ Endemic wildlife, such as Ethiopian wolves, gelada monkeys and walia ibex, occupies the jagged peaks and gaping valleys of the Simien Mountains. ■ A network of footpaths winds through the ruins of Great Zimbabwe, a medieval stone city that thrived on the export of gold. ■ Towering over South Africa’s Cape Town, majestic Table Mountain has enough paths to keep you busy for months. ■ Tanzania’s largest conservation area, Selous Game Reserve, offers thrilling guided walking safaris in a wilderness teeming with elephant, lion and the like. ■ The five-day, 85km trail through…

WILDLIFE TRAFFICKERS BEWARE: Governments around the world are increasingly taking action to curb this illicit industry. And the United States, one of the largest demand markets for ivory and other illegal wildlife products, has been at the forefront of this movement. This is in part due to mounting pressure from AWF and other conservation organizations. Whether providing technical expertise on strategy, financially supporting initiatives such as the U.S. ivory burn or helping supporters urge their elected officials to take action, AWF has been working tirelessly to keep the pressure on. These efforts are really starting to pay off. A PRIORITY ISSUE Former President Barack Obama took a critical first step in 2013 with an executive order creating a task force to combat wildlife trafficking. AWF CEO Patrick Bergin became one…

PIONEERS Muchenje Safari Lodge, in Botswana’s Chobe National Park, has recently celebrated its 20th anniversary. Shaun Metcalfe looks back at its foundation and how it has evolved. Since its opening in 1996, much has changed in and around the property, but the owners are determined to preserve local tradition and ensure that the area is conserved for generations to come. SAFARI REFLECTION Renowned safari guide Lex Hes has begun a new blog series on travelafricamag.com. In one of hopefully many such reflections, entitled The Joy of Walking, he discusses how the unique experience of taking a guided amble in the bush can be good for the soul. ALL ABOARD Join Tamsin Oxford as she floats down the Vaal River, the largest tributary of the Orange River in South Africa, in…

THE EMOTIVE IMPACT OF AFRICA Smell of the storm The lions sensed the rains were coming. Lying sphinx-like in the late afternoon they watched the cloud castles drawing closer. The wind sighed across the plains as if the land itself could feel the drought was about to end. Lightning flickered along the horizon, and when the first spots of rain fell, big as Kenya shillings, it released the glorious smell of earth freshly slaked. In minutes the rain had redoubled its intensity, an impenetrable curtain that filled every lugga and gasping waterhole, almost drowning the thunder that had reached a crescendo as the eye of the storm passed overhead. But by nightfall the stars were out, and in the morning what had been dust and stubble was a miracle of…

DECEMBER-FEBRUARY, CENTRAL KALAHARI, BOTSWANA These lush months are the best time to observe springbok and other herbivores in the usually arid Kalahari. At this time of year, the rains have come and the parched plains have burst into life. It is also the peak of these animals’ breeding season, so visitors can expect to see plenty of youngsters on wobbly legs, which in turn attract hungry predators. Big cats stalking vulnerable babies can make heart-rending but enthralling viewing. Newborn lambs are at first hidden away in the tall grass or shrubs that have sprung up, allowing them some respite from the dangers of the open terrain, but before long they must brave the grasslands. Look out for a remarkable attribute of the male springbok: its so-called pronking or stotting, where…

I recently spent so much time in the immigration hall at OR Tambo International Airport that I began to regard it as home. I was travelling around southern Africa, thus coming and going through the region’s hub airport, and on three occasions was subjected to the endless queues that are now regarded as normal there. The first arrival was the worst because I’d flown in on a Sunday from the UK, on one of at least six Boeing 747s or Airbus A380s to touch down early in the morning. I think we were second or third to land, and by the time the sixth had arrived the immigration hall was full to overflowing and there was a seemingly infinite trail of tired, dishevelled travellers standing in line. I estimated that…

I doubt if there is anyone who likes to travel that hasn’t been intrigued by Africa. When my friend John told me that he was planning a trip to Botswana’s Okavango Delta, I knew this was my chance. We decided to arrive in June, as it was early in the dry season so the plains were still lush after the rains. The weather was perfect, being colder in the morning and reaching the mid-60s to early 70s in the afternoon. After a night in Johannesburg, we flew to Livingstone in Zambia, where we were met by our driver and treated to our first ‘African massage’ on the 5km dirt track that led from the paved highway to our first camp: Islands of Siankaba. We explored the river, ogled at Victoria…

Stretch Ferreira Goliath Safaris “You must move in single file, keeping close to the guide. When approaching any animal, stick closely together so that you appear as one unit and not a threat. Look through the bush, not straight at it, and pan from right to left; you will observe more this way.” Wouter Vergeer SafariBookings “Walking in Mana Pools is good for birders as there are almost 400 species recorded. Keep an eye out for the African skimmer, long-toed plover, Pel’s fishing owl and rufous-bellied heron. Nesting carmine bee-eaters are a feature along the riverbank. The wet season (November to April) is the best time to visit, when migratory birds are around.” Honest Siyawareva Wilderness Safaris “Listen carefully to your guide’s safety briefing before you start. Guests may come…

■ Getting there The capital Maputo is the main point of entry and you can fly from the UK via Johannesburg, Abu Dhabi, Doha, Addis Ababa, Nairobi and Lisbon. For the Bazaruto Archipelago, you can fly direct from Johannesburg to Vilanculos; and for the Quirimbas Archipelago, head to Pemba from Johannesburg, Nairobi or Maputo. From there to the island lodges will be by a short charter flight, helicopter or boat transfer organised by your lodge. Coral Lodge 15.41 is reached by a five-hour road transfer from Pemba, or a flight from Nairobi to Nampula and a two-hour road transfer. Inhaca Island is reached by a 10-minute flight or public ferry from Maputo. ■ When to go The best time to visit is May to October, when it’s dry and temperatures…

■ Getting there Udzungwa Mountains National Park is roughly 380km (or five to six hours’ drive) from Dar es Salaam. Turn off the Tanzam Highway (A7) at Mikumi on to the Ifakara road (B127) for 60km to Mang’ula village, where Msosa Gate and the park headquarters are located. Hondo Hondo can arrange transfers from Mikumi (and the airstrip at Mikumi National Park), and buses and dala dalas (shared minibus taxis) between Mikumi and Ifakara drop off in Mang’ula. Day trips to Udzungwa from Mikumi can also be arranged from Tan-Swiss Lodge on the Tanzam Highway in town or Stanley’s Kopje and Vuma Hills Tented Camp within Mikumi National Park. ■ Where to stay Within the park are basic campsites just uphill from the park headquarters. Relaxing and peaceful Hondo Hondo…

■ Leopard have the biggest range of all big cats, living in approximately 75 countries in Africa and Eurasia. ■ Their habitat is remarkably diverse; they can be found living in the depths of the Congolese rainforest, as well as in the deserts of the Middle East. ■ Despite this unique adaptability, the leopard is the world’s most persecuted big cat. In Africa, its skin and body parts are widely used in ceremonial regalia, leading to tens of thousands of killings. ■ In Africa, it is estimated the leopard has already vanished from at least 49 per cent of its original range. It is unknown how many animals are left in the wild. ■ An elusive big cat, it has a stocky, muscular build that sees it climb into trees…

JOIN THE DISCUSSION What do you think? Please comment on this story at travelafricamag.com or email editor@travelafricamag.com CITES: IN BRIEF CITES (pronounced ‘Sigh-Tease’) is the acronym for the Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, a treaty that aims to ensure that cross-border trade in wild animals and plants does not threaten their survival. It came into being in 1975 after 12 years in the drafting process and so far 183 countries have participated, making it one of the most universally accepted conventions. To date some 5600 species of animal and 30,000 species of plant are regulated under CITES and these are all listed in one of three appendices based on their conservation status and risk from extinction: APPENDIX I includes species hovering under…

Essential guide to Africa’s best walks Page 164 VIEW WITH A ROOM Entamanu Ngorongoro, Tanzania It’s all in the detail at Nomad Tanzania’s latest property. From sustainably sourced wooden furniture to unique pieces made by Maasai master beaders, there’s as much to be said for the interiors as for the dramatic vistas beyond its canvas walls. This is the only camp where you can watch the sun rise over the famous Ngorongoro Crater and set over the Serengeti — and with great views from each of the six rooms, it is possible to witness all of this from the comfort of your bed.…

THORNTREE EXPERTS HELP YOU PLAN YOUR TRIP FAMILY Q I have young children and need to travel in the school holidays. Is there anywhere that you would recommend for around Easter time? WOUTER VERGEER, SAFARIBOOKINGS South Africa is an excellent safari destination for families, but you should book ahead. If you choose an organised safari, remember to tell your operator your kids’ ages. Kruger National Park, with its outstanding wildlife density, is ideal for children, who shouldn’t have to wait long to see an elephant lumber across the road. Accommodation caters for all budgets, too: Olifants Rest Camp, teetering on the brink of a spectacular bluff, is very affordable. Singita Ebony Lodge, just outside Kruger, runs a Mini Rangers programme for children. Pilanesberg Game Reserve, in the crater of an…

BOTSWANA Africa Wild Lodges 55 Elephant Valley and Kadizora Camp. www.africawildlodges.com Delta Air 20 Maun-based air charter company. www.footsteps-in-africa.com/delta-air.html Delta Camp 20 Spectacular camp in the Okavango Delta. www.deltacampbotswana.com Desert & Delta Safaris 73 Safari circuit in north and Makgadikgadi. www.desertdelta.com First Light Safaris 23 Guided safaris to Botswana and Kenya. www.firstlightsafaris.com James Gifford Photography 42 Photographic safaris across Botswana. www.jamesgifford.co.uk Karibu Safari Botswana 72 Mobile safaris in exclusive camps. www.karibu.co.za Ker & Downey Botswana 42 Safari operator providing luxury service. www.kerdowneybotswana.com Muchenje Safari Lodge 72 Overlooking Chobe River and floodplains. www.muchenje.com Part of Africa 74-75 Co-own a private game reserve in Tuli. www.partofafrica.com Sun Destinations IFC Trails of Botswana options for Botswana. www.sundestinations.co.za Ta Shebube 72 Two unique desert camps in the Kgalagadi. www.tashebube.co.bw Tuli Safari Lodge 72 Refurbished…

DODO TSHIDINDA Hailing from the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Dodo’s interest in conservation stems from a consultancy he started in 2012 with AWF to make the Congo Shipping Project profitable (see “Market access for a decade—and beyond” on p. 4). With a bachelor’s degree in economics and management, Dodo is passionate about business. He hopes to further sharpen his conservation enterprise skills and realize his goal of linking conservation and business for the benefit of communities and wildlife. KAHEMBO ODERA Born in Uganda, Kahembo holds a bachelor’s degree from the University of Kent in English and French law, and a master’s degree from the University of Edinburgh in global environment and climate change law. After working on legal policies with the Kenya Wildlife Service, she hopes to complement her…

Seasons greetings As I roll into 2017, still feeling full from too much Christmas turkey, I set my mind to the new year. Where might the path ahead lead? What are my personal hopes and dreams? And what should our resolutions be for African tourism? Well, the personal part is easy: drink less, exercise more, travel often, seize the day — nothing unusual. But the latter is more difficult. With 2017 being the International Year of Sustainable Tourism for Development, ‘sustainability’ instantly leaps to mind. It is currently the industry buzzword; and rightly so. For what is the point of a quick fix? None whatsoever. We need to strive together to develop long-term strategies to preserve the continent’s culture, environment and wildlife for many generations to come. As Peter Borchert…

WHAT WAS YOUR CHILDHOOD LIKE? I was brought up in Bujumbura, Burundi, where my parents moved in the 1950s when the Hutus overthrew the Tutsi monarchy. My childhood was happy and normal — it was nothing special. I went to school and I played with friends. As a family, we used to go on holiday in Rwanda, and other countries in and out of Africa. My parents wanted to ensure that we grew up to be open-minded people, so travel was part of our education. WHAT IS YOUR ROLE AT THE RWANDA DEVELOPMENT BOARD (RDB)? The RDB is a government agency whose vision is to transform the country into a dynamic global hub for business, investment and innovation. Our mission is to fast-track economic development by enabling private sector growth.…

21-22 JANUARY, OLYMPIA, LONDON The only one of its kind in the UK, this event aims to inspire travel enthusiasts with an array of more than 100 talks and seminars, and a film festival. Bringing together a collection of the best specialist companies in the business, and including a dedicated Discover Africa area, the Adventure Travel Show will open your eyes to a world of opportunities. Travel Africa readers receive half price entrance to the show (discounted tickets cost £5), so quote ‘TRAVELAFRICA’ when booking online at adventureshow.com. VARIOUS DATES AND LOCATIONS IN THE US America’s number one series of travel shows returns this year, ideal for the avid explorer planning his or her next trip. The events, dotted around the country, provide the opportunity to meet top travel companies…

TASTE OF AFRICA With The Savanna’s seven London stores and an online delivery service too, African ingredients are never far away. The brand sells South African and Zimbabwean foods, including award-winning biltong. thesavanna.co.uk Best bites ROMAZAVA A traditional beef stew. RAVITOTO Pork with shredded cassava. VARY AMIN ANANA Beef served with rice and vegetables (right). SESIKA A poultry blood sausage. LASARY A colourful chutney made from lemon, mango or papaya. KHIMO Spiced ground beef. KABARO Curried lima beans. The range of typical dishes enjoyed in Madagascar in the 21st century offers some insight into the island’s unique history. Malagasy meals range from simple and traditional fare, introduced by the earliest settlers, to refined festival dishes once prepared for the island’s 19th-century monarchs. Although the classic plate of rice remains predominant,…

BUY ART Run by a passionate Zimbabwean couple, The Impala Collection sells unique homeware from Africa, such as this Handmade Wallowing Hippo. impalacollection.com, £30 STRIPES American artist Julie Oriet was brought up in rural Montana, surrounded by open farmland, space and stunning views of nature. When asked why she chose wildlife as the focus of her art, she replied, “As a child, I played with animals, not dolls. Always having pets and livestock around made wildlife become part of my heart and soul. From my barn cat to the various creatures I’ve observed around the world — they are all intriguing and beautiful.” Although she struggles to pin down her favourite species to paint, appreciating the individual “shapes, colours, textures and character” of them all, she enjoys the challenge of…

Featured book Africa Rising: Fashion, Design and Lifestyle from Africa GESTALTEN & DESIGN INDABA The usual stereotypes and archaic clichés of Africa are called into question by this superb new volume. Although their striking patterns, vivid colours and bold subjects are quintessentially rooted in African tradition, a wave of new designers has combined tradition with modernity to reach new levels of innovation. This book is a captivating exploration of the ideas and work of some of the continent’s most gifted creatives, who are beginning to be recognised by the universal art scene. It includes insightful essays from experts and artisans that contextualise each portrait. Each project focuses on local and global issues such as politics, global warming, education and community integration. Africa Rising successfully shows how Africa is truly on…

■ Getting there To board MV Ilala at the beginning of its journey, fly to the cities of Blantyre or Lilongwe with South Africa Airways, Kenya Airways or Ethiopian Airlines, from where it’s a few hours’ drive to Monkey Bay. To start at the end, cross the Tanzanian border to Chilumba. Alternatively, join the ferry at one of the other stops along the way. ■ How to book Berths are available for 12 passengers in single and double cabins. Book at least two weeks in advance. For further information, visit malawitourism.com. ■ Where to stay Monkey Bay, Nkhotakota, Likoma Island, Chizumulu Island and Nkhata Bay all offer a range of accommodation options. ■ Food & drink Both Western and African meals are served à la carte in the dining saloon.…

■ Getting there Emirates, South African Airways, Ethiopian Airlines, British Airways and Kenya Airways all fly to Harare. From there, it is possible to book a domestic flight to Kariba with Air Zimbabwe, and then fly on to Mana Pools by private charter. Alternatively, you can organise a private car or plane direct from Harare. The park is mostly off limits to vehicles between November and April. ■ Where to stay For a high-end option, book Ruckomechi Camp (doubles from US$1480). Alternatively, African Bush Camps’ remote sixtent Kanga Camp (from US$477 per person) is excellent; or you could go on a walking safari with Stretch Ferreira of Goliath Safaris and sleep in a tented camp (from US$450 per person). Also, Nyamepi Camp (pitches from US$75) provides a more rustic experience…

■ Getting there South African Airways, Kenya Airways, Ethiopian Airlines, KLM, Qatar Airways and Emirates fly to Entebbe International Airport, from where it’s a fullday drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park’s southern sector, Ishasha. The easiest way to arrange your trip is to book through a tour operator such as Journeys Discovering Africa (journeysdiscoveringafrica.com). The company will organise everything for you, including a driver-guide, accommodation and activities. ■ Where to stay The writer was hosted by the idyllic Ishasha Wilderness Camp (wildfrontiers.com, doubles from US$620, full board), a truly authentic bush escape. The 10 comfortable tented rooms are set alongside the Ntungwe River, and Henry the Hippo reportedly wanders through the camp at night. (“If he’s outside your room, take photos. If he’s inside, use the horn,” says Chris, the…

■ Getting there British Airways and Kenya Airways operate daily direct flights to Nairobi, from where you can fly to one of three airstrips serving Tsavo West. The park is also accessible by road from Nairobi (240km) and Mombasa (250km). Daily visitor fees apply for park entry; these are US$52 per day per non-resident adult, payable on arrival. ■ When to go You can visit at any time of the year, but expect moderate to heavy rains in March-April and November-December. ■ Where to stay There are options to suit all preferences and budgets. Ranging from KWS-run campsites (US$20 per non-resident) through to the high-end Finch Hattons (from US$700 per person sharing per night, all inclusive). Another top-notch option is Severin Safari Camp (from EUR120 per person per night, full…

THE ARCTIC TERN (above) is the only bird known to migrate between the Arctic and Antarctica, completing a 30-40,000km round-trip, the longest known of any bird. Throughout its life it sees only summer. THE DIMINUTIVE SEDGE WARBLER may double its weight from 10g to 20g in one four-week binge before setting out on migration, gorging largely on aphids. It converts this fat into energy as it flies, fuelling a single, non-stop 4000km journey to West Africa. A GROUP OF BAR-TAILED GODWITS captured by ringers in New Zealand had flown 11,000km non-stop from Alaska in just six days, without making landfall. It is thought these shorebirds were assisted by the jet stream. MIGRATING VULTURES may use thermals to reach astonishing heights. A Ruppell’s griffon vulture ( above) was recorded at a…

After Côte d’Ivoire, or Ivory Coast, gained independence from France in 1960 and thrived from its cocoa and coffee exports, economists called it ‘the miracle’. A more recent miracle is that this small (it’s slightly bigger than the British Isles) Francophone republic has just emerged from 10 years of civil war with its incredible array of cultural draws intact. Not to be missed are the ancient arts, crafts, songs and dances of its 60 ethnic groups (the country is one of the most multicultural societies on Earth) and its buzzing contemporary music venues, innovative modern art galleries and laidback cafe and restaurant scene. I begin in Abidjan, the largest city, in the chic Plateau district whose sumptuous hotels and elegant restaurants overlook the picturesque Lagoon Ebrié. The Rotonde des Arts…

ACCOMMODATION NEWS SOUTH AFRICA Bush Lodge, Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve After 35 years, this iconic lodge has gained quite a reputation as a high-end home in the heart of the bush. Losing none of its traditional charm, it has unveiled a new look. The contemporary design is complemented by an eclectic mix of treasures that have been collected by the owners on their travels across Africa. Garden Route Game Lodge, Albertinia New Sunset Ridge Luxury Rooms have been added to this property. The five freestanding residences are aptly named after their magnificent location, perched atop a small ridge. They offer 180-degree views of the game reserve and its spectacular sunsets. Lanzerac Hotel & Spa, Stellenbosch This historic five-star hotel, on a 325-year-old working wine estate in South Africa’s Cape…

HOW WILL DONALD TRUMP’S PRESIDENCY AFFECT AFRICAN TOURISM? Nigel Vere Nicoll is Chief Executive of Atta, which serves travel companies in the African travel sector in 37 countries. For more information visit www.atta.travel. Do you remember that old children’s song where Nellie the Elephant lost her trunk and cried for help with a “trumpety trump”? The million dollar question is: did her “trumpety trumping” make things better or worse? I ask the same question: will a Trump president make things better or worse for African tourism? Soon after the election, my crystal ball kept clouding over with contradicting arguments. Both were based on the direct effect of this election on US tourist arrivals to sub-Saharan Africa, bearing in mind that most destinations quote in US dollars. Tourism from the USA…

ESSENTIAL GUIDE UKHAHLAMBADRAKENSBERG PARK, SOUTH AFRICA uKhahlamba-Drakensberg is a true wilderness area whose upper slopes are best tackled by experienced and properly equipped hikers. But the foothills of this extensive range are criss-crossed with dozens of wellmarked day trails catering to most energy levels. The scenery is delightful throughout, wildlife is locally plentiful, the mountain air is fresh and crisp, and the caves and overhangs are adorned with one of the world’s most extensive collections of prehistoric rock art. Many discerning travellers reckon Africa is best experienced on foot. And they have a point. Certainly some of the continent’s most iconic adventures — be it tracking chimps or gorillas, hiking up its mountains, or exploring remote cultural sites — are available only to those willing to put on their walking…

THE IMAGES THAT NEVER LEAVE US Eye on you There’s something striking and — it has to be said — downright weird about a southern ground-hornbill upclose. This photograph, taken in South Africa’s Kruger National Park, highlights the stark contrast between the soft jet-black feathers and the leathery red wattle, characteristic of a male. Its eye is intense and its eyelashes are doll-like. Often called the ‘turkey buzzard’ (despite being neither a turkey nor a buzzard), this splendid bird is the largest of the hornbill species, growing up to 130cm tall and weighing up to 6kg. But sadly, it is classified as Vulnerable on the IUCN Red List, although several projects have been undertaken to conserve it.…

As any conservationist will tell you, in this line of work it’s all about the trends. Are population numbers rising or declining year over year? Have patrol units recorded more or fewer signs of poachers this quarter compared to the previous one? A pattern of positive data can lift a conservation professional’s hopes high, while the reverse can bring them crashing down. So you might imagine the reactions in the second half of 2016 when a flurry of new information revealed that the trends are not looking so positive for Africa’s elephants. A closer look at the data, however, is showing that there are pockets of good news—namely, in those places in Africa where AWF is supporting efforts on the ground. RECORD-SETTING DROP But first, the bad news. It started…

We at the African Wildlife Foundation (AWF) strive to be a bold, innovative organization. A few years ago, at the first hint of a wildlife trafficking crisis on the African continent, AWF acted quickly to implement an emergency species grants program that would maximize the impact of your investment across the continent (see the results of some of our efforts on pages 8 – 11). Similarly, as Africa has experienced an unprecedented level of change, we have worked hand in hand with communities and governments alike to balance development with conservation. Throughout our 55-year history, AWF has adjusted, adapted and evolved our approach to make sure we stay as fresh and unique as the continent on which we work. But over time, our logo no longer fully represented our work,…