Innholdsfortegnelse for July-September 2016 i Travel Africa

Expedition in the marsh In this striking photograph by Gian Luigi Fornari Lanzetti, a lioness is a mere pinprick on a sea of green in the Ndutu area of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. “After a while, the solitary lioness appeared… walking through the long, green grass that covered the swamp,” Lanzetti said. “Her fur was shining visibly against the contrasting green of the field below, while her curved tail added a unique quality to the shot. Later on we understood the reason she had gone to that swampy area — to breastfeed her two 20-day-old cubs that she had hidden in there.” This image was the Second Runner Up in the ‘Wildlife as Art’ category of the 2016 Nature’s Best Photography Africa competition, with which we are very proud to…

1 Rose Gamble Namibia, page 114 “Driving down an empty, dust-swept track toward an isolated edge of the Etosha saltpan, we came across an enormous bull elephant munching on a mopane tree. We made several cautious attempts to creep past it, each one met with an angry hoot from the hefty beast. Eventually, we had to reverse back up the track, the pachyderm in hot pursuit.” Rose has written for The Sunday Times, the Financial Times and The Guardian, among others. 2 Christopher Clark Tanzania, page 84 “Above our tents was an acacia branch that was just the right height and shape for pull-ups. I made the mistake of challenging the young Maasai boys who had helped us set up our camp to a competition. All three left me, and…

YOUR SHORTCUT TO GREAT ADVENTURES IN GREAT PLACES With proper planning, young children can enjoy exploring Africa just as much as you. Avoiding long journeys is a good place to start. Safari vehicles may not have air-conditioning, roads are often uncomfortable and dusty, and loo stops are generally behind bushes. But when you do need to spend time on the road, don’t forget the obvious kit (toys, entertainment and games); and plenty of snacks and treats come in handy, too. Top tip: grab extra rolls, pastries and fruit at breakfast and bring them with you in the vehicle for munchies throughout the day. When it comes to making reservations, plan to stay at least a few days in each place to avoid too many big moves (two destinations is ideal,…

LETTER FROM AFRICA Dear Reader, There are no buses to Imelghas, so we squeeze into a communal taxi at Azilal. There are six of us in all, each one anxious to reach Aït Bou Guemez (about 100km east of Marrakech as the Bonelli’s eagle flies) before the sun sets and the High Atlas Mountains plunge into freezing darkness. As is the norm these days, we must either share the four passenger seats or walk. Long ago we did walk, but that was before the new tarmac strip joined the concrete towns of the northern plains with bustling Souk el Had, our valley’s precious weekly market. Imelghas’ physical isolation testifies to the stories of the earliest settlement of Aït Bou Guemez, ‘the people of the scratching man’. Legend tells of one…

MUSINGS ON TRAVEL MATTERS As everyone knows, air links are the lifeblood of modern tourism. The market has been gloomy for some time: South Africa, the continent’s biggest aviation market, continues to report stagnant international passenger numbers. Its national airline, staggering under a mountain of debt, has been forced to cut its prized Cape Town-Heathrow slot and shed partnerships with Etihad and other airlines. Despite this, the broader picture may offer a glimmer of hope for an industry that many believe is not growing fast enough. Scheduling changes are ongoing, but (to name but a few) British Airways will begin direct flights from Gatwick to Cape Town in November, adding to its established twice-daily flights out of Heathrow. Abu Dhabi’s Etihad has started a daily service between Abu Dhabi and…

BOOK WORMS! Welcome to the Travel Africa Book Club, a valued resource for all readers with an interest in African wildlife, culture and travel. We’ll let you know about new releases, dig out some interesting old favourites and invite guests to recommend and review titles. Most importantly, we call on you to share your own suggestions and reviews of books you’ve particularly enjoyed. We are developing this online and send out regular updates, so please visit us at travelafricamag.com and sign up to our newsletter. Happy reading! LAURA GRIFFITH-JONES, EDITOR Featured book The Desert: Lands of Lost Borders MICHAEL WELLAND In Heart of Darkness, Joseph Conrad depicts barely explored southern Africa on a mid-19th century world map as a “blank space of delightful mystery — a white patch for a…

The Inspired Journeys team has been working in or for Virunga National Park for the last six years, and we would love to show you its wonders. If there ever was a place to feel inspired by, Virunga is it! Here’s why: ■ BIODIVERSITY Virunga is one of the most diverse areas in Africa, covering all biopes with the exception of deserts and severely arid regions. ■ MOUNTAIN GORILLAS The mountain gorillas are the stars of Virunga. They are easy to visit either from Mikeno Lodge or Bukima Camp. ■ NYIRAGONGO VOLCANO The gorillas might be the stars of Virunga, but the Nyiragongo is its beating heart. You can hike to the summit (about five hours, depending on fitness levels), where you will experience the radiating heat of the world’s…

Scan this page with the ‘Layar’ app for more content The earliest recorded depictions of lions were painted on the walls of caves some 32,000 years ago. Ancient Greek storytellers used this majestic big cat in fables to represent bravery and courage. The species has been used for centuries as a symbol of power, royalty and stateliness. But the human connection to the so-called ‘king of beasts’ is far more than emblematic. In the late Pleistocene era, an estimated 10,000 years ago, the lion was one of the most widespread large land mammals aft er humans. Today, there are just over 20,000 lions in Africa, a population decline of an estimated 42% over the past 21 years alone — a frightening statistic. The reality is that in another 20 years…

For all the wildebeest and hyena that populate this remote park, Lady is the true star of Liuwa. In 2010 National Geographic filmed a documentary about her called Lady Liuwa: The Last Lioness, relating her life as the only lion in this vast national park. The population had been wiped out due to poaching, human-wildlife conflict and illegal trophy hunting, and for nine years, she was its solitary lion. “She’s amazing, a true survivor,” our guide Brian Mukumbuta told us. But it seemed Lady had spent her last years alone in the wilderness. African Parks’ conservationists set about finding her a family to restore Liuwa’s lion population. In 2009 two males were introduced and the coalition seemed strong and healthy. But danger lay ahead. The two males moved on to…

Counting cheetahs A new study has criticised current estimates of the number of wild cheetah as being merely ‘guesswork’, and argues that the true figure is far lower than previously thought. Using a new method of assessment, researchers from the Kenya Wildlife Trust’s Mara Cheetah Project, the University of Oxford and the Indian Statistical Institute have calculated that in the Masai Mara the approximate total is 30 animals — almost half the original claim. Scientists hope that with this more accurate picture they will be able to better identify threats to the species and potential conservation initiatives. CHARLOTTE COULSON…

Elewana’s latest stroke of genius is to design comfortable, handcrafted four-poster beds on wheels that can be rolled out onto the raised platform adjoining your bungalow. The Starbeds allow you to sleep under star-studded African skies , while overlooking the undulating grasslands of Laikipia. Lie awake late into the night gazing at the glittering firmament, and when dawn comes, quietly watch the savannah come to life without even raising your head from your pillow. PAUL SELIGMAN Ideas and advice to help you plan your perfect trip…

Silence in Shali “I was drawn to this bicycle rental shop in the old town of Shali in Egypt’s Siwa Oasis by the vibrant colours, lines and shapes, and the dilapidated bikes dangling there. A sense of mystery permeated the scene. There was something eerie about it; perhaps it was the isolation of this settlement, buried in the Western Desert region of Egypt, about 550km west of Cairo, 305km south-west of Mersa Matruh and 50km from the Libyan border. The town holds a special appeal for many travellers on account of this very remoteness and because of its natural beauty , unique character and historical associations.” PHOTOGRAPH AND WORDS BY YASSER ALAA MOBARAK Yasser is a 23-year-old, award-winning amateur photographer based in Alexandria, Egypt…

The question had caused anxiety for months. Will they or won’t they? The international trade in rhino horn had been banned since the 1970s. But at the next meeting of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), the international body that regulates the trade in wild animals and plants, would the South African government put forward a proposal to lift said trade ban? In February 2015, the South African government announced that it had appointed a panel of experts to look into the pros and cons of a legalized rhino horn trade. The 17th meeting of the Conference of Parties to CITES was taking place in September 2016. Based on the panel’s recommendations, the government would consider requesting that the international trade in…

Spacial awareness When British astronaut Major Tim Peake returned from six months on the International Space Station a few weeks ago, he said that he was suffering from the “world’s worst hangover”. I’d like to imagine that his feeling was not all that dissimilar (albeit in a much milder form) to the one you experience when you arrive home after a spell in the African bush, and every ounce of your being pines to be back in the wilderness. The subtle theme of ‘space’ permeates this edition of Travel Africa — not Major Peake’s Space, but the terrestrial kind. The kind of space that stretches for miles and miles, seemingly to the end of the world and back. The kind that is so boundless that the sky appears disproportionately big…

A place to share your experiences MY BUCKET LIST Rwanda’s Virunga Mountains Tony Proud “My appetite for wildlife has taken me into the beautiful desert and delta regions of Botswana, the wilds of Etosha in Namibia and the endless plains of East Africa. But I have a burning desire to trek in the volcanic, misty Virunga Mountains in search of the gorillas that live there on the edge of extinction. These beautiful creatures are so special and so rare. A chance encounter with a majestic silverback and his family group would be my ultimate African experience.” TONY PROUD IS A LONG-STANDING READER OF TRAVEL AFRICA.…

THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE STORIES HOW DID THE BORN FREE FOUNDATION COME INTO BEING? In 1968 I worked on a film with a young elephant who had been gifted to London Zoo. We asked to buy her for Daphne and David Sheldrick, which was granted, but we were warned that another one must be captured as a result. Unthinkable. Many years later, we were told that she had become difficult and might be destroyed. The authorities would not allow us to rehome her in a South African reserve, but agreed to move her to Whipsnade Zoo. However, this never happened, as after standing in her travelling crate for hours, she collapsed, damaged a leg and was put down. This was the catalyst that started our charity in 1984. HOW DID…

Black rhino on foot “Ker-chunk!” My camera shutter goes off like a gunshot. Immediately the browsing stops and the head comes up, radar ears swivelling and nostrils flaring. The calf huddles closer. Wedged into a thorn thicket, with an edgy female black rhino and her baby just 30 metres away, my every nerve screams ‘run’. But Thulani gestures at me to stay put: the rhino can’t see us and the wind is in our favour. After an interminable time, the rhino resumes her demolition of the thorn bush. I calm my breathing and try to drink in the experience: the huff of her breath; the rhythmic crunch of her jaws; the flies swarming her broad battleship-grey flanks. Head hidden by foliage, she could be just a boulder in a bush.…

READERS SHARE THEIR EXPERIENCES The smooth stucco structures of this once capital city are meant to be the great equalizer Apart from the Kairaouine Mosque and University, all the buildings in Fez have the same tan exteriors. Our tour guide, a local man wearing a djellaba, the traditional Moroccan brown, hooded robe, explains that their decidedly bland facades are in keeping with the teachings of Islam. The smooth stucco structures of this once capital city are meant to be the great equalizer. “This way, there is no outward difference between the rich and the poor,” he says, gesticulating with his left hand, as he takes a drag from his cigarette. “Everyone is equal on the outside, just as everyone is equal in the eyes of Allah.” The statement makes me…

Where is the best place to visit in Africa? This is one of the most frequently asked questions by travellers to Africa. Although there is no definitive answer, since it depends what visitors are looking for from the experience? Is it big game, iconic animals, culture, World Heritage sites, adventure activities – or a combination of all of these things? The Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA) lies at the wild heart of five African countries: Botswana, Angola, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. KAZA encompasses arguably the greatest safari travel destination in Africa – and The Kaza Collection is at the centre of of it all, where it provides visitors with an exceptional choice of activities, service and accommodation. The Kaza Collection is a group of like-minded safari travel people, who…

A MATTER OF OPINION Technological innovation gives new hope for averting the planet’s environmental collapse and reversing its accelerating rates of habitat loss, animal extinction, and climate change Portable computers coupled with advanced cell and satellite communication are now the driving force behind conservation strategies, enabling innovative scientists and wildlife protection authorities to act more swiftly. An alarm goes off deep in South Africa’s Kruger National Park, in a command centre with 300 CCTV monitors. A red light flashes on one of the screens. An operator zooms in and sees a thermal image of several humans. Within minutes a drone takes off. Guided unerringly by precise coordinates, its thermal software soon has the suspects in ‘sight’. The suspects can hear the UAV but cannot see it. Alarmed, they move quickly,…

UNIQUE APPEAL Few evenings have been so poignant to me as those spent by the campfire at Nairobi Tented Camp. I look forward to these moments more than any other on safari. Gazing into the flames, losing my thoughts in their crackle and pop, I find a peace that disconnects me from everyday life and draws me closer to nature. Sitting quietly with loved ones and ruminating on the experiences of the day, it is easy to realise how insignificant so many of the pressures of modern life are. There were three reasons why our evenings by the flames at this camp were more memorable than usual. First, we were enjoying a very special family holiday, and those placid hours sitting tranquilly with our teenage daughters will be treasured forever.…

Carrie’s Cape Town In the first of a new series of blog posts, Carrie Hampton takes herself out of her comfort zone and joins a Secret Sunrise group for an early morning of yoga, silent disco and dance. Her experience leaves her feeling rejuvenated and reconnected with the world around her. Read more of Carrie’s insider tips on our website. Southern Africa in a Toyota Niamh Sacramento and her husband, Giles Brooke-Hollidge, have embarked on the trip of a lifetime. They have left their old life in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, to explore southern Africa in an old Toyota Hilux. Follow their adventures online. We’re always striving to give you as much value as possible, so we are embracing new technology. Whenever you see the logo below, it means that…

The destruction of heritage sites is hardly a new phenomenon. Over the millennia successive rulers or conquerors have razed the works of the vanquished; religious groups constantly seek to exterminate evidence of ‘false gods’. But the ever-increasing human population today is making these historical remnants even more vulnerable. David Bristow lists some of the crumbling treasures of Africa that we should continue to celebrate and conserve by visiting them. THE MAP THAT TELLS A STORY…

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN AFRICA THIS QUARTER JULY-SEPTEMBER, MASAI MARA, KENYA It’s that time of year again, when more than a million wildebeest, zebra and other ungulates head for the lush grasses of Kenya’s Masai Mara. Depending on the rains, this part of the cycle can start as early as July. The herds gather, waiting to traverse the Mara River, before eventually choosing a crossing point and taking the plunge. What follows is one of the world’s great spectacles: a rush of flailing hooves pounding through the water in a desperate attempt to reach the other side, while all around crocodiles attack in a feeding frenzy. Once on the grasslands of the Mara, the herds spend a few months feeding and fattening before heading south again. MOUNT MULANJE PORTERS RACE 9…

What’s cooking? We asked Selelo Nteda (or Cry), Senior Barman at Tuli Safari Lodge, to tell us about himself and his role What was your childhood like? I had a traditional upbringing in a family of nine children in the village of Mathathane near Tuli. Tell me about your career I started working at Tuli in 1982, at the age of 19. I’ve been here ever since. My first job was cleaning dishes but I gradually migrated to cleaning the bar and gardening as well as tracking. In 1986 I became a barman and have stayed happily in this role for 30 years. What are the highlights of your job? I really love my job, particularly talking to guests at the bar, which is at the heart of the lodge…

Why Bot swana? His Excellency The President of the Republic of Botswana, Lieutenant General Dr Seretse Khama Ian Khama tells us what makes his country so special: Botswana has been named Lonely Planet’s top country to visit in 2016. While we very much appreciate and agree with this accolade, we think we have been such for many years and will continue to be for many more to come. So what do I think makes Botswana special? First, our people: they are welcoming, peaceful and love to show off their hospitality. Our slogan is ‘Botswana: our pride, your destination’. Second, our focus on conservation: 20 per cent of the country consists of reserves and national parks. Third, our wildlife: for example, nowhere else in the world will you find as many…

Shayne Kötting Game warden, Okaukuejo, Etosha National Park ■ When to go “The best time to visit is between May and August: it’s cooler and the game viewing is particularly good, since animals are forced to drink at artificial waterholes as most of the water has dried up. However, for bird lovers, the wet season (January to March) is the most gratifying, as many vagrant species are present then. Moreover, these months are also when many antelope give birth, so there are lots of sweet little animals running around — if you can find them.” Mufaro Nesongano Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) ■ Where to stay “One of the best places to stay is Onkoshi Camp. In the past, guests weren’t able to drive themselves there but this has recently changed,…

ASH, YOU HAVE ORGANISED AND COMPLETED SOME INCREDIBLE EXPEDITIONS. CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR LATEST CHALLENGE? Thank you! It was a world-first expedition: to walk the entire length of Madagascar, from its most southern to northern tip, including summiting the eight highest mountains on the island. WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE TO UNDERTAKE SUCH A GRUELLING TRIP, AND WHY MADAGASCAR? I did it for the challenge, adventure and to explore somewhere unfamiliar. I chose Madagascar while I was doing my solo, unsupported walk across Mongolia. I thought to myself: “I want my next expedition to be in a country where I’ll constantly come across locals.” I didn’t know much about the island at that point, but I was curious and wanted to explore it first-hand at a walking pace. MADAGASCAR’S…

GETTING TO KNOW OUR FLORA AND FAUNA The appeal of owls reaches well beyond birders. Something about these enigmatic nighttime hunters commands attention and has long cemented them in the popular imagination, from Greek mythology to Harry Potter. Our fascination is perhaps not surprising. These nocturnal birds embody the mysteries of darkness and their almost supernatural hunting skills fill us with awe. What’s more, their large, forward-facing eyes give them more of a ‘face’ than other birds — one upon which we can’t resist bestowing such human qualities as anger or surprise. Across much of Africa, however, owls are more feared than loved. Traditional societies have long associated these birds with evil spirits. In Swahili culture, they are traditionally thought to bring illness to children, while in parts of West…

To work in Cameroon is to engage in a test of endurance. For starters, travel across the country is hardly a breeze. For the AWF scoping team that traveled to Faro National Park in February, the journey involved taking a train overnight from the capital city of Yaoundé to the city of Ngaoundere, then driving 298 km to the small city of Garoua, and then driving another 180 km to get to Faro. The total travel time from Yaoundé: 18 hours. Naturally, on-the-ground staff would be based in or near the park. But any AWF staff traveling from our headquarters in Nairobi, Kenya, to provide support in Faro would have to allot four travel days. They’ll also want to make sure they have A/C on their journey there. When the…

Historic ivory burning On 30 April, Kenyan President Uhuru Kenyatta set fire to 105 tonnes of illicit wildlife goods in Nairobi National Park as part of a statement against poaching. The 12 rhino and elephant ivory towers were each 10ft high by 20ft wide, and the audience included heads of state from several nations. Land & Life This May saw the launch of the Land & Life Foundation, the new charitable face of Cheli & Peacock Safaris. Building on the work of the former trust, it will continue to work with communities and environmental projects in Kenya. Its flagship scheme, the Wildlife Warrior Program, educates local schoolchildren in wildlife protection through fun and interactive activities. ATTENBOROUGH TURNS 90 The legendary broadcaster and naturalist recently reached his 90th birthday. The BBC…

IS IT TIME TO GIVE AFRICA A CHANCE? Nigel Vere Nicoll is Chief Executive of Atta, The African Travel & Tourism Association, which serves travel companies in the African travel sector in 37 countries around the world. For more information visit www.atta.travel. There is nothing the media likes to do better than paint the picture of deepest, darkest Africa. The Ebola crisis was an ideal platform for that image, with the media hype successfully devastating tourism across the continent, even in destinations often thousands of miles from the outbreak. As a result, jobs connected to our tourism industry — including waiters, chefs, porters, laundry assistants, even the lady who walks miles to deliver the eggs each day — all went out of the window unnecessarily. Tourism feeds up to about…

BOTSWANA African Bush Camps 56 Luxury tented camps in Botswana and Zim. www.africanbushcamps.com An African Anthology 41 Lodges and camps in Chobe and Okavango. www.anthology.co.za Avis Botswana 24 Leading car rental provider. www.avis.co.za Botswana Tourism 14 Resources to help you plan your visit. www.botswanatourism.org.uk Deception Valley Lodge 38 Join Bushman guides in the Kalahari Desert. www.dvl.co.za Delta Air 38 Maun-based air charter company. www.footsteps-in-africa.com/delta-air.html Delta Camp 38 Spectacular camp in the Okavango Delta. www.deltacampbotswana.com Desert & Delta Safaris 17 Safari circuit in north and Makgadikgadi. www.desertdelta.com Karibu Safari Botswana 39 Mobile safaris in exclusive camps. www.karibu.co.za Ker & Downey Botswana 57 Safari operator providing luxury service. www.kerdowneybotswana.com Kubu Lodge 55 Owner-run lodge on the Chobe River. www.kubulodge.net Letaka Safaris 39 Classic tented safaris in Botswana. www.letakasafaris.com MizMundo Adventure & Leisure…

To work in Cameroon is to engage in a test of endurance. For starters, travel across the country is hardly a breeze. For the AWF scoping team that traveled to Faro National Park in February, the journey involved taking a train overnight from the capital city of Yaoundé to the city of Ngaoundere, then driving 298 km to the small city of Garoua, and then driving another 180 km to get to Faro. The total travel time from Yaoundé: 18 hours. Naturally, on-the-ground staff would be based in or near the park. But any AWF staff traveling from our headquarters in Nairobi, Kenya, to provide support in Faro would have to allot four travel days. They’ll also want to make sure they have A/C on their journey there. When the…

It is an unfortunate reality in Africa that the people who have the greatest immediate impact on the continent’s natural resources are often the least engaged in discussions around their management. I am talking, of course, about rural communities—but also more specifically about Africa’s women and children. Women in rural areas are often involved in natural resource extraction, such as collecting firewood for cooking. Yet sensitization around conservation matters typically starts with men. Planning and policy around natural resource management starts and ends with men. Wherever possible, therefore, the African Wildlife Foundation (AWF) involves women specifically in our outreach efforts. Such is the case in our Congo landscape, where communities living in the Congo Basin often depend upon the forest for an array of needs. AWF has made sure that…