Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2023 i Town & Country

1954 A GALAXY OF JEWELS In honor of T&C’s sixth annual jewelry awards, we’ve unearthed this gem (pun intended): the cover of our November 1954 issue, featuring a constellation of pearls, diamonds, rubies, and gold photographed by Edgar de Evia. This mélange of important pieces—a Seaman Schepps coral pin, a gold and sapphire powder box by Schlumberger, plus some Harry Winston and Verdura—was meant to serve as a “solution to the gift problems of the gentlemen of the family.” Seventy years later we remain deeply committed to that mission—and to celebrating the mavericks and creative talents of high jewelry. So much so, in fact, that for the first time since 1954 we’ve dedicated our cover to these one-of-a-kind treasures. And this year’s winners are……

“I always threw Ellsworth a birthday party every five years,” says Jack Shear, the late artist’s partner and executive director of the Ellsworth Kelly Foundation. “Even though he died in 2015, it felt natural to look forward to his 100th year—and the stars aligned to make this spectacular.” Kelly’s centenary will include exhibitions in New York, Chicago, and Rome, among other cities, and will showcase well-known and rarely seen paintings, drawings, sculptures, photos, and ephemera. Here are three highlights. 1. At Glenstone, in Potomac, MD, “Ellsworth Kelly at 100,” an encyclopedic exhibition of Kelly’s work, will open May 4 before traveling to Paris and Doha. 2. Beginning July 1 the Art Institute of Chicago will show “Ellsworth Kelly: Portrait Drawings,” a collection of 95 works, most of which have never…

The story of how the panther came to be Cartier’s mascot is now jewelry legend. If you aren’t familiar with it, all you really need to know is one name: Jeanne Toussaint. Or“La Panthère,” as Louis Cartier called his muse and lover, whom he hired in 1913 to oversee accessories for the house. By 1933 she had been promoted to director of Cartier’s jewelry department, a post she held for 37 prolific years. Toussaint embodied the feline spirit in style (a full-length panther fur coat was her signature) and sensibility (the singularity of her oeuvre speaks for itself). And with the keys to the maison, she would take her obsession to new three-dimensional heights. Her first high jewelry panther made its debut in 1948, the wildcat rendered in gold, diamonds,…

TAURUS APRIL 21–MAY 21 With Mercury out of sync in your birth sign, you should let decisions dangle until that planet changes direction and fortune-boosting Jupiter enters Taurus for a long stay on the 16th. You appear to be on the brink of a new era, and while you’ll need to be careful not to overburden yourself or enter into power struggles, take heart, because your star is on the rise. BULGARI, 800-BULGARI GEMINI MAY 22–JUNE 21 It’s time to complete projects, tie up loose ends, and turn toward your inner life and future. Jupiter’s midmonth entrance into Taurus is like having a guardian angel sitting on your shoulder for the period to come, and it’s telling you to patiently consider where you are and what you really want. Life…

LIZA SOBERANO Although Liza Soberano is set to make her Hollywood debut in the upcoming black comedy Lisa Frankenstein, she isn’t exactly a rookie. In the Philippines, to which she moved from California when she was 10, the 25-year-old is a veteran model and actress—with nearly 18 million Instagram followers to prove it. But success hasn’t made her afraid of starting over. “I began my career here as a nobody,” she says, “which means I’m discovering things about myself that I never knew.” WILL HARRISON If Daisy Jones & the Six hadn’t been a hit, at least Will Harrison would have mastered a new skill. “I got an amazing education in guitar,” he says, “and hope to release music soon.” But the series—in which the 26-year-old Carnegie Mellon grad played 1970s rocker Graham…

“I’m always the guinea pig to try everything,” Paltrow once told the New York Times. “I’ve got to try them all.” Let the healing commence! Apitherapy: Using honeybee products, including bee venom, to treat illnesses. For Gwyneth it meant getting stung by bees to “get rid of inflammation and scarring.” Box breathing: Inhale for four seconds, hold for four, exhale for four, hold for four. Repeat. Cold plunge: Also known as an ice bath; Gwyneth has one in her home. She has dabbled, but her husband Brad Falchuk is “an obsessive cold plunger.” Cupping: In the early aughts the circular bruises on Gwyneth’s back—made when a therapist heats up glass cups and then puts them on your skin, creating suction meant to ease pain—caused a scandal when she bared them at a…

None of us, unfortunately, though that won’t stop everyone from trying, as you will see throughout our May issue. This Cartier high jewelry necklace, however, has a pretty good shot at immortality, or at least a life span of 100,000 years. There are archaeological findings in museum vitrines to back that up. And it’s not just diamonds that live forever—also 150,000-year-old snail shell beads discovered in a cave in Morocco and a 70,000-year-old chlorite bracelet picked up in Siberia. The Hellenic gold and quartz bangles (circa 330 BC) I often visit at the Met look good enough to wear out tonight, if they’d let me. We celebrate the lasting aspect of the art of jewelry in every issue, and especially in our annual T&C Jewelry Awards. Do they glitter? Do…

The Mavericks of the Year The Talk of the Year Ten years ago—or even two—the term “high jewelry” was spoken sotto voce by a small group of jewelry artisans and the editors and clients who love them. Today this level of the market—one-of-a-kind hand-crafted creations designed with expertly procured rare stones—has emerged as an area of broad desire. Red carpet appearances help (see: Cate Blanchett in a Louis Vuitton high jewelry cuff, similar to the one shown here, at the Critics Choice Awards), as do Instagram posts of the private events in faraway places orchestrated to present these collections (and perhaps even certain thoughtfully written magazine editorials). It is also evidence of the culture’s growing understanding of jewelry as decorative art, and high jewelry as the most elevated expression of…

Over the past few months Ozempic, the injectable semaglutide drug made by Novo Nordisk, has achieved Botox-level name recognition, becoming shorthand for quick fixes and irresponsible prescribing, and sparking a guessing game about which newly svelte celebrities are on it. Similarly,“Ozempic face” has become the go-to descriptor for the phenomenon in which rapid weight loss causes a loss in facial volume, sending semaglutide users to their dermatologists faster than you can say nasolabial fold. Now some users are also seeing changes in the skin below the neck, which raises the question: Is there such a thing as Ozempic body? Possibly, says Anthony Youn, a plastic surgeon based in Troy, Michigan, but it’s likely too early to tell if a body slimmed by Ozempic looks different from one that has undergone…

A few years ago, when Alex, an academically minded Manhattan mother, first hired a math tutor for her son after he was placed in seventh grade advanced math at the prestigious Collegiate School on the Upper West Side, it was not, she said, an example of competitive parenting. Her son had shown an aptitude for math on the school’s placement test but then flubbed the first two exams he took once school was underway. “I just wanted him to get an A- or a B+,” Alex said recently. She quickly learned, however, just how competitive the math game has become in places like New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and other cosmopolitan hubs populated by moneyed strivers. When Alex (her name has been changed) tried to hire the tutor that…

Earlier this year Martha Stewart, basking in the flattering light of a shampoo chair at Frédéric Fekkai, posted a pouty-lipped selfie to Instagram, writing, “Absolutely no-reimaging!!! Skin looking good after a mostly dry January and Pilates every other day. By reimaging I mean no filtering my selfie!” The comments section exploded with demands that Stewart confess to the plastic surgery that she, at 81, must surely have had. Stewart’s response? Three more immaculate skin selfies crediting great dermatologists (specifically, Daniel Belkin and Dhaval Bhanusali), diet and exercise, facials at Mario Badescu for 40 years…and no face-lift. With that, Stewart became the paragon of a certain type of woman who, with sufficient capital and time for maintenance, dedicates herself to evading the scalpel. “I thought Martha looked outrageously good,” says Marcy,…

COVER TIFFANY & CO. SCHLUMBERGER BIRD ON A PEARL EARRINGS, 800-843-3269 WHERE IT ALL BEGINS PAGE 74–79 BECK, MUSEXMUSE.COM. BELPERRON, BELPERRON.COM. BROTHER VELLIES, BROTHERVELLIES.COM. CHRISTO-PHER JOHN ROGERS, CHRISTOPHERJOHNROGERS.COM. DAVID WEBB, DAVIDWEBB.COM. ESENSHEL, ESENSHEL.COM. LORRAINE WEST JEWELRY, LORRAINEWESTJEWELRY.COM. MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION, MICHAELKORS.COM. RALPH LAUREN COLLEC-TION, RALPHLAUREN.COM. ROBERTO COIN, ROBERTOCOIN.COM. STEPHEN BURROWS, NEW YORK VINTAGE, 212-647-1107. THE ROW, THEROW.COM. TIFFANY & CO., TIFFANY.COM. VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, VANCLEEFARPELS.COM IF YOU KNOW, YOU KNOW PAGE 84–89 ASSAEL, ASSAEL.COM. BASERANGE, BASERANGE.COM. BELPERRON, BELPERRON.COM. BRENT NEALE, SHOP ETCJEWELRY.COM. DAVID YURMAN, DAVIDYURMAN.COM. DIOR, 800-929-DIOR. DIOR FINE JEWELRY, AVAILABLE BY SPECIAL ORDER, 800-929-DIOR. ETRO, ETRO.COM. FARAONE MENNELLA, FARAONEMENNELLA.COM. GIORGIO ARMANI, ARMANI.COM. GUCCI, GUCCI.COM. IRENE NEUWIRTH, IRENENEUWIRTH.COM. JACQUIE AICHE, JACQUIEAICHE.COM. JAMIE JOSEPH, GREENWICHJEWELERS.COM. JEWELMER, JEWELMER.COM. MARCO BICEGO, MARCOBICEGO.COM. MATEO, MATEONEWYORK.COM. MESSIKA PARIS, MESSIKA.COM. NIKOS KOULIS, BERGDORF GOODMAN, 888-774-2424.…

WHERE ARE WE GOING? For a certain crowd, art is more than a salve in tough times; it can also be a measure of just how tough those times are. A hemline index for the one percent, if you will. Nowhere is this more apparent than in New York in May, when the deep-pocketed converge for a vortex of fairs (Frieze, TEFAF) and megaticket marquee auctions at Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Phillips. What recession? WHAT ARE WE WEARING? In the competitive sport of art collecting, you have to commit to the hustle. Attend every VIP preview and collector cock-tail party. Be impeccably dressed—style is taken more seriously here than at NYFW—and on time. You don’t want to lose a Richter because you were late, do you? A Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso will keep…

It’s often said that health is wealth, and these days menus are proving it. At some of the most exclusive eateries around the world, a once humble foodstuff is stepping into the spotlight and boasting a price tag commensurate with its newfound status. Take the Japanese Crown Musk Melon, which can cost as much as $200 each. Meticulously cultivated for more than 100 years in Japan’s Enshu region, the melons are given a daily massage by dedicated artisans who also monitor and control the temperature and humidity of the fruits’ environment for 100 days before harvesting. As there is only one melon per stem, all the nutritional content is concentrated in one precious piece of fruit. A slice of the melon is served with a squeeze of yuzu and a…

The significance of yellow gold in the history of Greek jewelry has been well documented. Prowl the halls of any Greek or Roman museum gallery and the evidence is everywhere. Alexander the Great’s conquests of gold-rich lands changed the course of jewelry forever. Now another Greek has set out to do the same. Nikos Koulis’s pieces honor the precious metal favored by his ancestors—a word that applies both broadly and specifically, as Koulis comes from a family of jewelers and gem experts. From the beginning of his career his designs favored yellow gold, but Koulis does not repeat ancient motifs or inspiration; he uses this heritage to forge ahead into the future. The Together Collection, perhaps his most ambitious to date in both scale and materials, is boldly sculptural and…

Pimento. Pistachio. Peyote. Seaweed. Olive oil. Absinthe. Tiramisu. No, these are not the ingredients for a dish from The Menu, nor the inventory of an L.A. art party bar cart. These are perfume notes—all in new, fairly mainstream fragrances. They may not be as extreme as Elon Musk’s Burnt Hair cologne (billed as “the essence of repugnant desire,” it sold out—30,000 bottles—within days), but still, they aren’t smells you would normally elect to spritz on your wrists. Diptyque’s newest perfume, L’Eau Papier, immerses you, initially, in the aroma of rice and sesame. By Far’s Daydream of Hopscotch, tagged a must-have on Moda Operandi, smells distinctly of Play-Doh. Cult favorite Vacation Eau de Toilette contains notes of “pool toy” and “swimsuit lycra.” Coconut and cannabis are everywhere, and evidently a lot…

SkinTok loves a rebrand. Nothing goes viral faster than a tried-and-true skincare technique blessed with a catchy new name. The “skin flooding” of 2023 and last year’s “moisture sandwich” really aren’t any different from 1968’s Clinique 3-Step or even Elizabeth Arden’s“Venetian Toilet” from 1910. Each simply describes a multistep routine: After cleansing, layer on your goodies from lightest to heaviest. But while Elizabeth Arden and Norman Orentreich (Clinique’s and Andy Warhol’s go-to dermatologist) designed their regimens to bring balance to unhappy complexions, today’s sandwiches and floods pursue a single-minded goal: getting maximum moisture into skin. The most extreme version of this is “slugging.” The term comes from K-beauty, but the technique has been the glowing skin secret for generations of Black women, as well as a common solution for dryness…

Hours before the end of 2022, I was standing by the bar at Le Rock, a new brasserie that has helped to bring a dash of elegance to a tourist-clogged stretch of Rockefeller Center, when Jorge Riera stopped to say hello. A burly and beloved presence in New York City, Riera is one of the world’s fore-most advocates for natural wines, and if you happen to cross paths with him at Le Rock or Frenchette, the two Manhattan spots where he oversees the bottles, you’ll notice a gleam in his eye that tells you that he really wants to pour you something special. I saw the gleam, and Riera had heard that it was my birthday. $11B 2022 sales of nonalcoholic beverages in key global markets. “Can I get you…

If you had a Saruman-style crystal ball and predicted that I would make a friend through the internet, I would tell you that you must have Houdinied out of your straitjacket and escaped the asylum. As a Gen Xer who lived through the dawn of online life, I’ve always approached strangers with some amount of apprehension—until I became besotted by the cult-followed Instagram account @cakeatelieramsterdam. The genius behind the account, Natasja Sadi, is no longer the wedding cake maker her handle suggests but a floral artist whose anticipated Sunday posts burst with colorful tulips and daisies and buttercups from Dutch flower markets. After years of building a devoted audience that includes Bunny Williams, Linda Evangelista, Aerin Lauder, and Martha Stewart, Sadi now has a new book, A Sweet Floral Life,…