Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2022 i Town & Country

“The idea of building a Near Eastern house in Honolulu must seem fantastic to many,” tobacco heiress Doris Duke wrote in an essay for T&C about Shangri La, her beloved hillside Spanish-Moorish-Persian-Indian complex in Hawaii, which greeted visitors with this Moroccan-style entrance hall, sparkling with 16th-century Rhodian tile. Duke’s retreat has since been transformed into a museum for the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art. As we report on page 96, Hawaii has once more become a haven for eccentric billionaires, but its creative spirit still thrives too. This year’s Hawaii Triennial brought works by such artists as Ai Weiwei, Jennifer Steinkamp, and Theaster Gates to seven locations across Oahu. The pieces will be on view at the Hawaii State Art Museum through May 8.…

“My friends are probably sick of my ceramics by now,” Carey Lowell says from her Montecito pottery studio, with its view of the Pacific Ocean. She’s being modest. Her perfectly imperfect vases, bowls, and incense holders are not just beautiful but sought after, once sold at Barneys New York and collected from coast to coast by the likes of Lisa Eisner, Lauren Santo Domingo, Muriel Brandolini, and Jann Wenner. First, Lowell was a model for the photographers Peter Lindbergh and Bruce Weber, then a Law & Order actor. Now she’s a full-time ceramicist. She trained via Zoom and says she could watch pottery videos on Instagram all day long. She also loves to collect. “The first piece was from Morocco, where there are beautiful ceramics around Fez. Something from Japan.…

Few classes of creative people are as doctrinaire about dress as architects and interior designers. Le Corbusier favored double-breasted suits. Pierre Yovanovitch swears by Comme des Garçons, as do Britt Moran and Emiliano Salci of Milan’s Dimore Studio. Rafael de Cárdenas became familiar with Pleats Please Issey Miyake during his time at Calvin Klein, where he worked in the ’90s as a men’s wear designer. “Calvin always flirted toward the Japanese,” de Cárdenas says. “He loved Yohji Yamamoto and Miyake.” Personally, de Cárdenas thought the look matronly, but then something changed, and the Brooklyn-based architect found himself wearing the line more and more, specifically the midcalf shorts of its men’s offshoot, Homme Plissé, clothes immediately recognizable for their origami-like texture and boxy silhouette. At Totokaelo once, he bought a pair…

ARIES MARCH 21–APRIL 20 All the planets are speeding forward, and you can accomplish much right now. Be ready to work with others as Mars, your sign’s ruler, journeys through egalitarian Aquarius. Contentious moments will pass as soon as you’re willing to see others’ points of view, although this may prove more challenging than it sounds. Once Pluto goes out of sync on the 29th, the die will be cast. DINH VAN, DINHVAN.COM TAURUS APRIL 21–MAY 21 You take your emotions and responsibilities more seriously than most, but you tend to be a bit inflexible. Do yourself a favor, though, and go with the flow, because brilliant results are in sight. Aim high, embrace compromise, and enjoy the kind of camaraderie that you revel in. After all, you were born…

Hyperbaric oxygen chamber [hīp’•ər•băr’•ik ŏks’•ə•jən chām’•bər] Air pressure inside the chamber is 2 to 3 times as high as normal, enabling lungs to gather more. The extra oxygen in the bloodstream helps fight bacteria and stimulates cell repair. Ozone therapy [ō’•zōn ther’•ə•pē] Similar to a hyperbaric chamber, except the goal is achieved via an IV drip. A sample of your blood is drawn, mixed with ozone (a molecule comprised of three atoms of oxygen), and infused back into your body. Helps detoxify and boost the immune system. Nidra anantar [nē’•drə ăn•ăn•tar’] A sound bed lined with 50 steel strings. You lie on it while a therapist plucks the finely tuned strings, sending relaxing vibrations through the wood to your body. Think of it as a touch-free massage. Brain photobiomodulation [brān…

Hair by Rita Marmor for Oribe at Statement Artists. Makeup by Ingeborg for Chanel Beauty. Nails by Nóri for Essie. Set design by Todd Wiggins at MHS Artists. Model: Austria Alcantara at New York Models. Style & Interiors Writer: Olivia Hosken…

I was reminded of Town & Country’s 176-year history of getting inside people’s houses in two emails. The first bore the news that the Hôtel Lambert, the historic mansion built in 1643 on the Ile Saint-Louis that has hosted such visitors as Voltaire, Chopin, and Balzac, had been sold by the brother of the former emir of Qatar to French telecom billionaire and art collector Xavier Niel for $226 million. We like to keep track of old friends: T&C stopped by the Hôtel Lambert after it was restored by one Count Zamoyski in the early 1950s, and we went back in 1988 to see what the Rothschilds had done with it. The second email, from contributing editor David Netto, included the obituary of Mollie Wilmot, a Palm Beach hostess whose…

Before its $105 million expansion by Annabelle Selldorf, the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego was practically devoid of windows. That’s not unusual for an arts institution, but it was given this one’s location: the tony enclave of La Jolla, California, practically hanging over the Pacific Ocean. For 80 years the flagship of MCASD (a satellite location opened in downtown San Diego in 2007) had gradually grown around the modernist home that Irving Gill designed for philanthropist Ellen Browning Scripps in 1915. When she died, her concrete house was left to the city, and in 1941 it was turned into a modern art museum, one of the oldest on the West Coast. Expansions followed in the ensuing decades, but it wasn’t until five years ago that the stars aligned for…

Harper Levine never expected this. Now 54, he has spent most of his professional life as a rare book seller, building a business in St. Paul, Minnesota, and, since 2010, the Hamptons. Over the years artists such as Richard Prince and Eddie Martinez would come in to get advice on building their libraries or to buy books on obscure Japanese photography or Beat literature. Some became his friends. It was at their urging that Levine began staging exhibitions at Harper’s Books, in East Hampton. In 2014, when an artist canceled, he texted Prince, asking for suggestions to fill the spot. “Figgis,” came the reply. Prince had recently discovered Genieve Figgis on Twitter and fallen for her feathery, macabre paintings. Levine took Prince’s advice, and the show sold out. “That was…

The last few years have provided few opportunities for peacocking beyond donning a spiffy collar for Zoom. But as we tiptoe toward reengaging with public life, a showbird trend is taking hold in luxury: extravagant volumes of fabric pluming into hemlines, pleats, poofs, ruffles, trains, and gigantic coats that could swaddle a bear. If you spent the winter (or most of the early ’20s) hibernating in pajamas or sweatpants, you would not be alone in wishing to roar into spring with a flourish. For that, fashion designers are preparing a plethora of options: a powerful puffer by Marc Jacobs, a billowing ball gown by Jason Wu, a sweeping train from Fendi, mile-wide ruffles at Balenciaga. Hemlines pool around models’ feet and trail behind them. Even for his fall collection, Joseph…

This is not only a book about decoration. It is personal, poetic,” says Isabelle d’Ornano, who co-founded Sisley with her late husband Hubert. She’s referring to a new coffee table tome that showcases the exuberant, art-bestrewn interiors she has masterminded. What a Beautiful World! ($85, SISLEY-PARIS.COM) pulls back the curtains—and what beautiful curtains!—on not only the d’Ornano clan’s grand home on the Left Bank, which they have owned for nearly 50 years, but also their countryside sanctuary in the Loire Valley, their London pied-à-terre, the proliferating Maison Sisley spas around the globe, and the company’s elegant Paris headquarters. The spaces are unique, yet they are united by d’Ornano’s passion for pretty objects. “We just put in what we like,” she says. “Having valuable things is a luxury, but that isn’t…

If you think traveling for your health is a newfangled impulse, consider this: The Sumerians constructed the world’s first known health centers around hot springs circa 4000 BC. But there is news: Lately a fresh crop of health-focused properties and programs have sprung up all over the world—from Miami to Montenegro, Sri Lanka to Switzerland, California to Qatar. They’re not boot camps. (Who cares, really, about washboard abs right now?) Their mission, first and foremost, is to help us feel good—looking good will naturally follow. Read on for our favorites. And there will be a quiz: What is a hyperbaric chamber? A nidra anantar?…

“To me, God is cold,” says Wim Hof, the Dutch “iceman” who is making headlines preaching the health benefits of exposure to extreme cold (better focus, sleep, metabolism). He is not alone. Elite athletes regularly take post-exertion ice baths; in spas, cryotherapy is all the rage. Well, planet earth has two real world cryotherapy chambers: the Arctic and Antarctic. More ships than Shackleton could ever have imagined are now taking passengers to both, and not just to ogle glaciers and penguins through binoculars. The new vessels are enabling polar athleticism (or at least plenty of healthful physical activity). River cruise expert Viking’s first maritime expedition ship, Viking Octantis, lets you explore Antarctica with skis, snowshoes, and trekking poles. When Seabourn Venture sets sail in the Arctic this July, excursions around…

We assume because something has been done many times that it has been done every possible way,” Ruth Negga says. “I don’t know if that’s necessarily true.” We’re speaking here of Lady Macbeth. No character has ever earned quite so much bad press. Her name has become synonymous with every insult you could level at a woman near a man in power. And right now, as the world navigates Shakespearean levels of threat, the Macbeths’ story of power, ambition, and regicide has never felt more vital. (Or ubiquitous: In recent months Joel Coen delivered The Tragedy of Macbeth, starring Frances McDormand, and a stage version starring Saoirse Ronan stunned London.) Before Negga’s move into Glamis Castle—or, more precisely, Broadway’s Longacre Theatre, where she’ll star opposite Daniel Craig as the much-maligned…

“Chickens are the new frontier,” the architect Pietro Cicognani tells me, as he barrels down the Long Island Expressway at top speed. “There’s a chicken war in the Hamptons. People don’t want Bentleys or haute couture. They want to save endangered heritage chickens.” I’ve known Cicognani for decades. In addition to his considerable architectural chops, he is one of New York’s great charmers and gives easily the best bear hug in the city. (He comes by bear-hugging honestly: His grandmother was the daughter of Piotr Stolypin, one of Russia’s last prime ministers under the tsars.) Cicognani’s work draws from an eclectic mix of architects and styles, including Louis Kahn, Alvar Aalto, Islamic architecture, and his beloved Baroque. His commissions are also eclectic and remarkable, including a church in Venice, which…

Every day thousands of pedestrians stroll along a busy section of Rustaveli Avenue in Tbilisi, Georgia, without the faintest idea that just around a corner, on a side street past a crumbling cable car station, stands a mansion that looks as if it has been lifted straight from the pages of a fairy tale. It has intricately carved balconies painted a light turquoise that looks as if it might melt into the sky above. Inside the Blue House, as it is called, the walls are covered with artworks by members of an extraordinary family that has managed—through Soviet occupation, civil war, and a Russian invasion in 2008—to hold on to its precious home. The story begins in the 19th century, when Georgia, a small country in the Caucasus mountain range,…

On January 23, 1978, the industrial tycoon Baron Edouard-Jean Empain was kidnapped in broad daylight in Paris. His captors demanded a ransom of 80 million francs (about $70 million today) and cut off one of his fingers to prove their seriousness. After 63 horrible days he was freed—he went on to live until 2018—but the experience would change his life, and European aristocracy, forever. This is the story of how it began. His friends called him Wado, but the world knew him as Baron Edouard-Jean Empain. With his longish blond hair, blue eyes, and high cheekbones, he could have been mistaken for a movie star. Tall, square-shouldered, and athletic, he had been a champion skier and horseman in his youth. Now, at age 40, he was the head of an…

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THE RIGHTEOUS GEMSTONES From rehearsal dinner to farewell brunch, a weekend wedding requires a suite of jewels. Whenever possible shop local—and turn it into a stylish occasion.…

If the concept of Southern charm can be encapsulated in a single place, it would be Charleston. But the 352-year-old South Carolina city is far more than just pretty pastel mansions and quaint cobblestone alleys. It’s a town that has reckoned with a painful history and emerged better than ever. As for the greatest hits—they remain just that. There are fabulous hotels for guest lists of any size, from the 21-room Wentworth Mansion to the sprawling Charleston Place, which will soon undergo a phased $100 million revamp. And the food! Whether it’s oysters at 167 Raw or French classics at the new Brasserie La Banque, the Charleston dining scene is one guests will remember forever. Hair and makeup by Alexa Rodulfo for T3 Micro and La Mer @ EsteeLauder. Model:…

WHERE ARE WE GOING? Le Smoking, Rive Gauche, the safari jacket—Yves Saint Laurent never settled for the status quo. Years after his death, he’s still a revolutionary, and for the first time five storied Paris museums are paying joint tribute to the designer, exhibiting 50 of his pieces among their permanent collections. AT THE LOUVRE, MUSEE D’ORSAY, CENTRE POMPIDOU, MUSEE D’ART MODERNE DE PARIS, AND MUSEE NATIONAL PICASSO–PARIS THROUGH MAY 15. WHAT ARE WE WEARING? Saint Laurent created homages to the paintings of Bonnard and Mondrian in jersey and silk, and the craftsmen at Vacheron Constantin have also paid their respects to an important artistic era. Here, the Belle Epoque serves as horological muse, with the romantic floral motifs of the Art Nouveau movement rendered in black mother-of-pearl and diamonds—123…

Anyone who plays pachinko—a mainstay of Asian gaming halls—knows it’s a gamble. But Pachinko, author Min Jin Lee’s epic 2017 novel, is a sure bet. The book, which tracks four generations of a Korean family over the course of nearly 80 years, was a New York Times best-seller and a finalist for the National Book Award. Given its scale and twisting plot, a TV adaptation was inevitable (indeed, a magnificent eight-part series is on AppleTV+ now), but the path to finding the right actress to play Sunja, the girl whose life the story is built around, wasn’t so straightforward. “This is the role of a lifetime,” says Kogonada, the mononymous director who helmed half the show’s episodes. “So many talented, well-known actresses auditioned. We weren’t out to find an unknown,…

THE SEARCH BEGINS HERE “I like finding the diamond in the rough, pun intended,” says Jenna Blake Grosfeld, who got an early education in collecting as a girl, when she would peruse flea markets and antiques shops with her mother in search of rare ceramics. Her eye later moved to vintage jewelry, a passion that inspired Grosfeld to launch her eponymous line of modern heirlooms in 2006, but her love of historic wares endures. On her list of holy grails: pieces by Florentine potterymaker Bitossi. “Texture, color, the interesting shapes—like my jewelry, there are so many elements to a single work.” AND THERE IS A SURPRISE ENDING The midcentury porcelain of Swedish artist Wilhelm Kage for Gustavsberg caught Grosfeld’s attention, with its green glaze and sterling silver overlay; a bounty…

If you’ve been on the internet in the last two years—and it’s safe to assume that you have—then you have witnessed the transcendence of TikTok. The video-forward social media platform, initially adopted by Gen Z, has become inescapable, along with its glut of content. As on Instagram, beauty videos reign (#BeautyTok has 5.3 billion views), with a razor-sharp algorithm and a viral machine that serves viewers a constant stream of bitesize snippets. And while you might want to steer clear of the dubious wellness content, the beauty feeds are truly mesmerizing. What makes TikTok beauty so addictive? According to Charlotte Palermino, the co-founder and CEO of Dieux beauty, who has 300,000 followers, the formula is simple: zero in on a product and use a trending sound—the algorithm does your work…

Remember when “forest bathing” made us smirk? No more. The Japanese, of course, have long believed in the health benefits of shinrin-yoku, their term for it. And thinkers like John Muir and Henry David Thoreau testified eloquently in their writings to the clarity and inspiration they found on wilderness rambles. These days physicians are getting on board too, even prescribing time outdoors as the best cure for ailments ranging from anxiety to diabetes. “There’s plenty of evidence that incorporating more nature into our lives improves physical, mental, and social well-being,” says Dr. Robert Zarr, a physician researcher based in Washington, DC. The tech world is also getting in on the act. A new app, NatureQuant, tracks not steps or sleep but time exposed to nature. “The quality of the exposure,”…

DOCTOR’S ORDERS Canyon Ranch Lenox, in Massachusetts, has upgraded its spa and launched a new 3-day “Optimal Health Pathway+.” After a thorough exam (EKG, pulmonary tests, and joint assessment), a team of sports scientists and nutritionists crafts a wellness game plan right for you. CANYONRANCH.COM…

In ancient Greece athletes prepared for the Olympic games by abstaining from indulgences and training with former champions. Fast-forward, oh, 2,800 years: Resorts increasingly cater to today’s long-life-and-physical-prowess seekers, and they’re modifying the ancient prescriptions. Training with pros, yes; abstaining, not so much. At Napa Valley’s new vineyard-flanked Stanly Ranch (from Auberge Resorts), a seven-building spa and 2,700-square-foot training complex are the stars. The wellness director, Erin Hosler (with bona fides from the Well in New York), devised a program of HIIT classes followed by muscle repair (like myofascial release and hyperbaric chamber sessions)—and topped off by some cabernet. Bay Area overachievers can join the Stanly’s cycle-and-run clubs, whose workouts are led by local pros. AUBERGERESORTS.COM. In Colorado, Dylan Bates, Reset Telluride’s co-founder, has dreamed up a more balanced boot…

In 1889, John Singer Sargent paints actress Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth. The work is now in the Tate Britain. Maureen Dowd, in a 1999 New York Times column, calls Hillary Clinton “Lady Macbeth in a headband.” In a 2009 Simpsons episode titled “Four Great Women and a Manicure,” Marge Simpson finds her inner Lady Macbeth. Boris Johnson’s wife Carrie is “not a Lady Macbeth” despite a 2022 biography’s portrayal, says the Guardian.…

In 1969 a young idealist, on her first trip to Hawaii, checked into the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, a sublime pink confection of a place in Waikiki Beach, on the island of Oahu. She threw open the balcony curtains, only to have the view of the surrounding mountains spoiled when she looked down onto the parking lot of the neighboring Sheraton Waikiki, then under construction. In April of the following year, the woman in question released “Big Yellow Taxi,” a protest song inspired by her stay at the legendary resort. A couple of the lyrics—“You don’t know what you got ’til it’s gone” and “They paved paradise and put up a parking lot”—became bywords of the ’60s counterculture. If Joni Mitchell were to check in today, and her antennae were still…

Batman has the Batsuit; Wonder Woman has those cuffs. But Alison Miller doesn’t need superheroes to demonstrate that costumes have transformative properties—she sees it at her atelier almost every day. Comic book characters have their uniforms; Miller’s brides have veils. Since 2012 Miller has been designing couture veils through her New York–based label Monvieve. Produced in Italian mills, her pieces are made out of the finest French lace and Italian tulle as gossamer-thin and diaphanous as Kate Moss in 1993. Once upon a time Miller designed separates, but that company shuttered in 2008. Bridal accessories were a pivot, then a calling. Today she creates wedding veils, headpieces, and jeweled headbands, as well as one-off bespoke gowns for clients as far-flung as Dubai and Hong Kong. I found Miller the way…