Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2019 i Town & Country

2015 AMERICAN GOTHIC Since the mid-’90s, Rick Owens has designed darkly elegant clothes for those who, as T&C noted in a 2015 feature, “telegraph their status in code.” His trademark pieces—such as distressed cashmere T-shirts and washed leather jackets, all disheveled in drape and dear in price—inspire loyalty from an unlikely mix of fans. Diane Keaton and A$AP Rocky wear Owens, as does Jack Dorsey, the silent-retreat-and-fastingloving Twitter CEO. This year Owens, who won the 2019 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year award, is celebrating his label’s 25th anniversary. “I’m as surprised as you are that I made it this far,” he says.…

TOWN & COUNTRY’S SIXTH ANNUAL PHILANTHROPY SUMMIT On Wednesday, May 8, T&C hosted an inspirational event focusing on philanthropy’s impact on society, delving into critical issues ranging from climate change to arts education to hunger. Philanthropists, foundation executives, and industry leaders from around the country convened at Hearst Tower in Manhattan to participate in a diverse and thought-provoking day meant to inspire change. T&C gives special thanks to its sponsors—Northern Trust, Memorial Sloan Kettering, Pomellato, and 1 Hotels & Baccarat Hotels—for their commitment to philanthropy. TO ACCESS OUR EVENTS AND PROMOTIONS, GO TO TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM/INSIDER FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM & @TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG…

Weddings and the many celebrations that surround them are occasions where traditions seamlessly blend with the beginning of new chapters. While trends and new fashions may capture our attention, what withstands the test of time are undeniably bespoke yet quality pieces that can be passed down fr om generation to generation. For more than 50 years, Tacori has remained committed to their uncompromising artisanship by handcraft ing each piece using only the finest materials to bring every one to life. Signifying style and personal expression, Tacori speaks to a woman’s passions and connects LOVE TACORI her to those she loves most. THE ONE FOR YOU Tacori has a breadth of collections to match your love story. FOR FULL PRODUCT INFORMATION, VISIT TACORI.COM/TOWNANDCOUNTRY ENTER FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A $20,000…

1 “PEGGY GUGGENHEIM: THE LAST DOGARESSA” Guggenheim moved to Venice in 1948 and continued to grow her trove of art until her death in 1979. Those masterpieces are on view at her eponymous museum. September 21 2 NYC BALLET FALL GALA Celebrity sightings (see: Sarah Jessica Parker) and world premieres with costumes by Zac Posen and Anna Sui help usher in the fall social season. September 26 3 WILL GUIDARA & DANIEL HUMM The duo behind Eleven Madison Park are opening in London with Davies & Brook, a new restaurant at Claridge’s (where Humm worked as a teenager). October 4 DIAMOND BALL Rihanna’s NYC gala, which benefits the Clara Lionel Foundation, has the best guest list: Kendrick Lamar, Brad Pitt, and Beyoncé have attended. This year maybe they’ll show up…

How sharper than a serpent’s tooth it is to have a thankless child,” King Lear laments as he frets over dividing his realm among his feuding daughters. In what may be his only point of connection to Shakespeare, Rupert Murdoch can relate. More than 400 years after the Bard set those words to parchment, the 88-year-old media mogul found himself facing the same quandary. But rather than resorting to civil war, Murdoch availed himself of a 21st-century solution to the problem: specialized counseling for dynasties. According to the New York Times, the patriarch organized family therapy sessions in both London and Australia. (HBO’s Succession also dramatized the powwows.) The revelation of these confabs shines a light on a new breed of experts who settle conflicts, smooth generational transitions, and plan…

Carel Fabritius’s 1654 painting The Goldfinch is safe today in the Netherlands, but its fictional counterpart—the namesake of Donna Tartt’s Pulitzer Prize–winning novel from 2013 and its big screen adaptation, out this month—isn’t so lucky. “Paintings like what people like. They want a consistent room temperature experience. Seventy-two degrees is perfect.”ROBIN STARR, director of American and European art at the Skinner auction house In the film, directed by John Crowley and starring Nicole Kidman and Ansel Elgort, The Goldfinch is hanging in the Metropolitan Museum of Art (actually a warehouse in Yonkers stocked with recreations of Old Masters and designed to look like the Met) when an explosion levels the building and the film’s protagonist, a young man named Theo, smuggles the painting out of the rubble. “You should never…

1 Buy a NAVY BLAZER. A Really Good One. In 1980 The Official Preppy Handbook declared the navy blazer “the wardrobe’s backbone… If you could own only one jacket, this would be it.” This season return not just to the blazer itself, which has valiantly endured 40 years of trends, but to the crisp styling of the ’80s and ’90s. As Kiton (above) and the Row (left) demonstrate, all it takes is a white turtleneck and a family heirloom or two. A discreet pocket for a monogrammed flask? Well, if you insist. THE EXTRAS Inherited or purchased, a touch of legacy pairs well with anything. 2 The CAMEL COAT Will Not Be Ignored. An outfit unto itself, the camel coat never screams for attention, but it always commands the room.…

The hairstylist John Barrett once got word that a Saudi princess had requested a blowout on his day off. Would he come in? Yes. But at the agreedupon time, the princess was a no-show. An hour later she phoned. Would he come to the Plaza? “Sure,” Barrett barked sarcastically to his receptionist. “For $10,000.” No problem. An hour later Barrett fluffed the royal tresses while the princess did a little shopping. Racks of couture and trays of jewelry wafted before her, and she chose as she went: that, that, and that. She’ll take it all. Barrett tells me this story as he rhythmically slices off the ends of my locks, shears flashing in the sunlight of his new, art-filled salon overlooking 57th Street. He is one of his industry’s great…

Is there a well-appointed home that doesn’t have at least one Diptyque candle prominently displayed? The brand’s jumbledletter cartouche is a shorthand signifier of good taste, despite the fact that you no longer need to travel to Paris to bag a Baies. Here’s how the world’s favorite French flame retains its je ne sais quoi. AN INGENUE IN PARIS The original Diptyque boutique, which opened at 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain in 1961, was conceived by its late founders—fabric designer Christiane Montadre-Gautrot, theater set designer Yves Coueslant, and painter Desmond Knox-Leet (a descendant of the Scottish king who inspired Macbeth)—as a “chic bazaar” that sold curiosities they gathered on their travels, from Japanese lanterns and Indian marionettes to Limoges porcelains and Liberty print cushions. “They wanted to offer beautiful, impeccable things that…

It was inescapable. From the moment Hedi Slimane sent a pair of pleated culottes—and plaid culottes! Flannel culottes! Even leather culottes!—down his runway at Celine, through the grace notes of Karl Lagerfeld’s last show for Chanel, the spirit of the bourgeoisie dominated the fall collections in Paris, as if it were the French Revolution all over again. It turned up in the soigné dresses at Loewe; in the rich trenches at Balenciaga, with their cocooning shoulders; in the sharp tuxedos at Givenchy (designer Clare Waight-Keller is a favorite of the Duchess of Sussex, herself an emblem of middle-class ascendance); and, in its most sumptuous form, in a double-faced cashmere cocoon coat at Hermès, bien sûr. About a year ago the designer Nicolas Ghesquière exalted ladylike “jolie madame” style in a…

There’s little worse than a boring dinner guest. The good news is that none of these names fit the bill—their very presence would bring a certain fizz to the room, and for every guest who might be turned off there will be several more champing at the bit to get a little scoop. The bad news? For one reason or another, these folks aren’t exactly rocking the social circuit lately. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t keep trying. And if they do miraculously show, make sure their wineglasses are never, ever empty. INVI TEES MICHAEL AVENATTI -GEORGINA CHAPMAN -HOPE HICKS -LORI LOUGHLIN -RUTH MADOFF -DAN MALLORY -ROBERT MUELLER -SOON-YI PREVIN -CHARLIE ROSE…

THE SKETCH Inspiration from medieval heroines and their visions, and the intricate work on medieval arms and armor, became ideas on a page. THE STONE The necklace’s 1,600 diamonds and 135 square sapphires are built around the center stone, an unheated 19.31-carat Madagascar sapphire. THE BUILD It took 10 people 1,500 hours to develop and achieve the delicate articulation and tailored fit Amfitheatrof was after. THE FINISH The necklace, the centerpiece of the 10-piece Le Royaume collection, is part of the new High Jewelry collection Riders of the Knights. It was unveiled at an event in Prague this summer.…

BREATHWORK Also called holotropic breathwork, or its ancient moniker, pranayama. Classes are popping up faster than you can exhale. It’s poised to become the sound bath of 2019. PRIMORDIAL SOUND MEDITATION Like Transcendental Meditation but more bespoke: A personal mantra with a specific sound or vibration is repeated silently to help practitioners enter deeper levels of awareness. Deepak Chopra offers a course. IBOGAINE THERAPY Ayahuasca? So 2018. This psychoactive drug, found in the West African shrub iboga, is the next hot thing to vomit into a Ginori bucket for hallucinogenic purposes, according to Our Lady of Trendy Remedies, Gwyneth Paltrow. ORTHO-BIONOMY Try it if you don’t like acupuncture. Homeopathy for the body, it is a practice that uses natural postures to restore balance and relieve pain. Think of it as…

HOTEL CRESCENT COURT, DALLAS Offering features that are undeniably charming and quintessentially Texan, Hotel Crescent Court melds sophistication and heritage into an experience that is uniquely theirs to share with guests. With their immersive spa, renowned dining, and serene pool, the luxurious and iconic property is ideally situated in Uptown, the most walkable and upscale area of Dallas. Their tranquil world opens up to an urban oasis of numerous restaurants, bars, art and entertainment districts. Guests are considered members of their exclusive Crescent Club while staying there, offering them country club living with the city at hand. Hotel Crescent Court welcomes you to stay with them next time you are in Dallas crescentcourt.com TO ACCESS OUR EVENTS AND PROMOTIONS, GO TO TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG.COM/INSIDER FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @TOWNANDCOUNTRYMAG…

EDITOR’S LETTER PAGE 38 DAVID HART, DAVIDHARTNYC.COM. GASPAR GLOVES BY DOROTHY GASPAR, GASPARGLOVES.COM. HERMES, HERMES.COM. OSCAR DE LA RENTA, PERSONALSHOPPER@ODLR.COM. PACO RABANNE, PACORABANNE.COM. TOMBOLO, TOMBOLOCOMPANY.COM. VILEBREQUIN, VILEBREQUIN.COM. WING & WEFT GLOVES, WINGWEFTGLOVES.COM. BOURGEOIS? MOI? PAGES 102–107 BALENCIAGA, 212-328-1671. BOTTEGA VENETA, BOTTEGAVENETA.COM. CHANEL & CHANEL FINE JEWELRY, 800-550-0005. FENDI, FENDI.COM. GASPAR GLOVES BY DOROTHY GASPAR, GASPARGLOVES.COM. GUCCI, GUCCI.COM. PRADA, 212-334-8888. WING & WEFT GLOVES, WINGWEFTGLOVES.COM. THE VISIT PAGE 114–115: ON HER, DIOR, 800-929-DIOR; GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI PUMPS ($995), GIUSEPPEZANOTTI.COM. ON HIM, CORRIDOR, CORRIDORNYC.COM; PHINEAS COLE, PAULSTUART.COM. PAGE 116: GIORGIO ARMANI, SIMILAR STYLES AT ARMANI.COM; DOLCE & GABBANA EARRINGS ($595). PAGE 117: ON HER, DOLCE & GABBANA, DOLCEGABBANA.COM; CZ BY KENNETH JAY LANE EARRINGS (FROM $65), RING ($125), KENNETHJAYLANE.COM; VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, VANCLEEFARPELS.COM. ON HIM, DOLCE & GABBANA, DOLCEGABBANA.COM; STUBBS & WOOTTON…

Lee Radziwill once called taste an emotion, and nowhere was hers more apparent than in her homes. For her last three decades, Radziwill lived in a three-bedroom co-op on East 72nd Street, seen here in textile designer Lisa Fine’s new book, Near & Far: Interiors I Love. It was on the market for $4.9 million, which means this might be the last time we’ll see an iconic Radziwill interior—unless the new owners keep it as it was. How’s that for emotional?…

As I was leaving the Stella McCartney show in Paris, I ran into Saks president Marc Metrick (see my story on Saks’s jewelry revolution on page 85). We asked each other the customary Fashion Week questions: “When did you arrive?” “Where are you staying?” “What did you like?” I rattled off some favorites before I gave him my conclusion: One of the best things about the fall 2019 collections was that they made me really want to shop. I wanted the Celine capes and boots, the Hermès cashmere, the black Balenciaga blazer, the Givenchy florals, the Loewe pearl shirt. You will spot several of the objects of my desire in this issue, and, luckily for all of us, we have the T&C fashion team out there, always on the lookout…

It’s cheesy to say you’ve dreamed of your wedding since you were a little girl,” says Brittany Wagner, but in her case it’s true. When she and Dan Scalia got engaged, in March 2017 after 18 months of dating, there was no doubt that the Chicago-based couple—she does marketing for her family’s company, Johnsonville Sausage; he’s in sports media—would have their wedding at Riverbend, a private club in Kohler, Wisconsin, near Brittany’s hometown. Over Labor Day weekend last year, 400 guests got a taste of Wisconsin life. For the welcome party, the American Club, also in Kohler, was transformed into a food hall showcasing the best of the state—bratwurst, cheese, and beer—along with staples from Boston, where Dan is from, such as lobster rolls, oysters, and clam cakes. On the…

In early makeup tests for Judy—the movie, out this month, about Judy Garland and the London concert series she gave just before her 1969 death—director Rupert Goold transformed his star, Renée Zellweger, with prosthetics. But when it was time to actually shoot, he realized they weren’t necessary. Zellweger doesn’t naturally look or sound like Garland, but her empathy, which perhaps comes from her being no stranger to Hollywood’s slings and arrows, makes her Judy sing. When Zellweger’s Garland (exhausted, nearly broke, and with a pill habit that will kill her) belts out a showstopping 11thhour “Over the Rainbow,” its impact has little to do with notefornote accuracy. “It was going to have to come from a different place,” Zellweger says of channeling Garland. “Her talent is for the ages. Her…

PAUL KARGER Co-founder of the wealth management firm TwinFocus, which has offices in Boston and London, he specializes in so-called “troubled assets.” 617-720-4500, +44-0-20-7789-0900, TWINFOCUSCAPITAL.COM PATRICIA ANGUS An adjunct professor at Columbia University, the New York-based Angus founded a group of global experts who advise families with international interests. 917-699-2142, ANGUSADVISORYGROUP.COM JAMIE TRAEGER-MUNEY A “wealth psychologist” with consultants who travel the world, she focuses on the emotional impact of inheritance. 510-406-7178, WEALTHLEGACYGROUP.NET…

Not too long ago, two elegant women passed each other in a train station in Paris. One of them was Christina Zeller, who is the wife of Prince Frédéric de Broglie and also happens to be creative director of the Belgian leather goods brand Delvaux. She couldn’t help noticing the petite “D” logo on the purse carried by the chic stranger on the platform. “You have a nice bag,” Zeller told her. “She looked at me and said, ‘You too.’” For the women who shop Delvaux, a tony crew that includes Lady Gaga and every Belgian royal since 1883 (when the label was first appointed Purveyor to the Court), the discretion of Delvaux’s designs has always been part of the appeal, a visual shorthand intelligible only to those in the…

CURL WONDER Formulated specifically for textured hair, this nourishing cream protects coiled strands from breakage (and defeats frizz) with shea butter and avocado oil. PRE-WASH TLC Enhance the cleansing power of your shampoo by giving your scalp some love. White clay absorbs impurities, while java tea extract normalizes sebum. 24K SHINE The glitter of champagne bubbles inspired the creation of this shimmery volumizing powder—use it to give a simple ponytail or bun a gilt upgrade. THE LUXE TREATMENT For luster that lasts for days, this intensive mask delivers a blend of peptides, amino acids, and silk that will revivify even the most frazzled strands.…

When Carmen Tal launched Moroccanoil in 2008, she created an entirely new beauty category: hair oil. The forward-thinking entrepreneur—and former salon owner—continues to drive innovation at the brand, while also emphasizing the importance of giving back. What is the secret of your success? CT: We like to believe that our success is due to a combination of having the right products at the right time, capturing the heart of stylists and consumers, and having the perfect team in place to help us grow—but I also like to believe in good luck. What’s your favorite place to travel? CT: Marrakech is one of my favorite cities to visit—it’s beyond amazing. Wherever you go in Morocco, the colors, the sky, the intoxicating scents, the people—there’s just something in the air that inspires…

TATIANA SOROKKO The Russian former model (Dior, Yves Saint Laurent) turned San Francisco socialite is married to art dealer Serge Sorokko. She considers Rucci her “gay husband.” LEE RADZIWILL The late grande dame became close with Rucci in 2000, and even appeared in a documentary about the designer, A Quiet American. MARTHA STEWART The domestic doyenne was a regular at Rucci’s fashion shows, and he once shared his recipe for coconut pudding on her eponymous cooking show. AMY FINE COLLINS The muse to Geoffrey Beene swore by Rucci after Beene’s death but later moved on to designers like Thom Browne. SUSAN GUTFREUND First a client and later Rucci’s interior designer, she draped his penthouse rental in masculine shades of brown. DEEDA BLAIR The medical philanthropist and style icon’s taste for…

It was a procession of awkwardly matched dignitaries. They walked two by two, in their tiaras and white ties, into the state dining room at Buckingham Palace, where the 1990 Château Lafite Rothschild would perhaps flow more freely than the small talk. President Trump and the queen, Princess Anne and Jared Kushner, the Duke of Cambridge and Theresa May, the departing prime minister. Then, down the line came a particularly intriguing pairing. Sarah Vine, a columnist at the Daily Mail who had been invited because she is the wife of Michael Gove, a minister in May’s cabinet, joined Rose Cholmondeley, a former model whose grandmother had been bridesmaid to the queen. Cholmondeley, who is 35, was there because her husband David, the Marquess of Cholmondeley (pronounced “Chumley”), has a ceremonial…

0 Acceptable number of black or broken heart emojis to include in a caption. It’s a death, not a meme. 1 Number of respectful posts you are allowed if you didn’t know the deceased. Preferably accompanying a Richard Avedon portrait. N/2 + 7 Use the Half Your Age and Add Seven rule when weighing the pros and cons of a selfie with the recently departed. It’s a move reserved for intimates, not acquaintances. 24 Hours you must wait before posting, so as not to scoop the family. Also applies to calling to offer condolences. “Even if it’s awkward, a note promotes a more emotional connection,” says Daniel Post Senning of the Emily Post Institute. “It says you made an effort.” 100,000 Follower count required for anyone to really care about…

Stop!” cried my mother the first time I tried caviar. She pried the tiny mother-ofpearl spoon from my greedy hand. “Leave some for the rest of us,” she said reproachfully. “Do you have any idea what caviar costs?” I didn’t. I was only 12, and to my enormous dismay it would be many years before caviar and I would meet again. Fast-forward two decades. I had become the restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times, a job that allowed me to eat anything, anywhere, anytime. In L.A., caviar graced almost every menu, and I joyfully renewed our acquaintance. Nothing had changed; I was still crazy about the glistening black pearls. But in real life I was just a reporter with a modest salary. Caviar at home was out of the…

“What would I do with more money?” asked Jean-Louis Chave, standing on a precipitous hillside in the appellation of Saint-Joseph, France, looking out at rows of young vines spilling down toward the Rhône River. “I don’t need another house.” The 51-year-old vintner was speaking to a small group of New York oenophiles, most of them bankers, who did an excellent job pretending to understand this sentiment, while Chave explained why he chose to carve 37 acres of vineyard out of previously forested hillsides that are too steep for tractors (a hugely expensive project). He predicted that it would be 20 to 30 years before the land produces wines that will be really good, and that even then they will never be quite as good as the wines he makes on…

Iremember you. You’re the lady with the jewelry.” It’s the kind of thing Kittie West hears from time to time. On this occasion the phrase poured out of the mouth of the manager of Mr. Chow’s on East 57th Street. West had come to New York from her native San Antonio to attend the Louis Vuitton Cruise show at the new TWA Terminal at JFK. Afterward she wanted some Chinese food. Accompanying her, to the show and to dinner, were friends she has trusted decades: her salespeople at Saks Fifth Avenue. “They were the ones who exposed me to all these jewelry designers,” says West, her emerald and green tourmaline–laden hands folded on the table at L’Avenue, the new restaurant at Saks’s New York flagship. Her Nini kunzite pendant occasionally…

When doctors Jean and Alastair Carruthers stumbled upon the wrinkle-smoothing effects of botulinum toxin while treating a patient’s eye spasms in 1987, could they have imagined this? The miracle molecule has changed the way we age, and regular injections have a run-of-themill role in the self-care universe. Botox is now FDA-approved for three cosmetic uses (vertical lines between the brows, crow’s-feet, and forehead lines) and has 26 therapeutic applications worldwide (from migraines to excess sweating). Meanwhile, doctors continue to get creative with where to inject it, experimenting with what is known as off-label use. One of the newest methods is being done at San Francisco’s Spa Radiance Medical, where nurses mix Botox with hyaluronic acid or vitamin C serum from the Spanish pharmaceutical brand Xtetic and superficially inject it all…

VIRGO AUGUST 24–SEPTEMBER 23 Numerous planets in your sign make September hectic. You’ll be especially alert and able to speed forward, and there’s a brilliant accent on lifestyle changes and entrepreneurial projects. Others may seem tuned out, but your flexibility will let you accomplish much. Financial glitches toward month’s end will require some fancy footwork. LIBRA SEPTEMBER 24–OCTOBER 23 As September gets underway, the focus is on behind-the-scenes planning. With Saturn turning direct in a highly personal angle of your chart on the 13th, you’ll be breaking through barriers and moving toward a brighter future. Don’t be discouraged if you have to reboot a plan near the 22nd, because your ability to make necessary changes will work in your favor. SCORPIO OCTOBER 24–NOVEMBER 22 What a brilliant time September is…

The ingenue with Oscar buzz. The reclusive celebrity chef. The power gallerist. The world’s most interesting ex-wife. These are the people we want to be seated next to, the people who provide the stories we’ll dine out on for weeks, those who will pitch us and we’ll pitch back. Who are this year’s most coveted guests? We’ve mapped out tables (round ones are best) for three cities and filled them with some of the most charming and fascinating characters in each—a mix of familiar faces and exciting newcomers—to make up the world’s greatest dinner tables. Pull up a seat and get ready for what will surely be the most memorable meal of your life. TABLE #1 LOS ANGELES L.A. GUESTS 1. MAER ROSHAN, editor of Los Angeles magazine. 2. KLAUS…