IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, a part of Manhattan’s Tenth Ward, which is now the Lower East Side, housed more than thirty-five hundred people a block, or a million per square mile. Today at Lowlife, on Orchard Street, named after the Luc Sante book from which this fact is gleaned, the dining room seats sixty, on leather banquettes and nylon-covered Jens Risom chairs, and, at a sapele bar overlooking the kitchen, ten more. It’s a minimalist experience for the neighborhood, and the food, which is cautiously French with some Japanese influences, follows the feeling.
With that provenance, mushrooms, naturally, take center stage in a number of dishes. Maitake are burnt, crunchy, and a little bit Frito-Lay, with pumpkin and an oozy cheese, as an appetizer. Matsutake, along with mussels, bob in…