It wouldn’t be right to say that the steak house is making a comeback, since it never really went away, but there’s something in the water, and in the air, and in the newspapers, and in the pits of everyone’s stomachs. It feels, if not promising, by any means, at least narratively cohesive: the rise of trad wives and “quiet luxury,” the demise of vaccines, the return of Donald Trump and his taste for, among other dubious things, well-done meat. Of the various new steak houses opening in New York right now, the most exciting, by a long shot, is La Tête d’Or by Daniel, the latest restaurant from the indefatigable chef and restaurateur Daniel Boulud. As a steak house, it is inherently and intensely American, though dressed up in…