In summer, life in Provincetown, Massachusetts, is idyllic and fairly simple: among the few decisions a visitor has to make is whether to attend Tea (short for Tea Dance), a party held daily from 4 to 7 P.M., on the enormous pool deck of the Boatslip, a hotel and beach club in the town’s West End. Every day around three-thirty, a migration begins: bodies, in various states of undress and drag, drawn, as if by magnets, down Commercial Street. At the height of the season—during Bear Week, in July, or Carnival, in August—the deck might be hundreds deep, bass thumping, drinks sloshing, and the possibility of friendship, or more, palpable in the air.
Attendance was sparse on the sunny Tuesday I went to Tea, this past June, but a handful…
