What exactly is Funso Akinya doing back there, in the kitchen at Akara House (642 Nostrand Ave.; $5-$16), his tiny takeout counter in Crown Heights? The first time I tried his food, I looked up from my cardboard container in stunned silence. None of the short, straightforward menu descriptions, hand-painted on the wall—“bean based burger,” “yam porridge (& beans)”—came close to conveying the culinary wizardry at play, though a passerby nailed it: “They got the good food in there!” he shouted through the open door.
And how! But, seriously, how? For his interpretation of akara, a veggie fritter of Yoruban origin, Akinya, who was born and reared in Nigeria, whips beans—a variety known in Nigeria as ewa oloyin, or honey bean—with salt, ginger, garlic, onion, and jalapeño, plus a few…