On my first visit to Zhego, a new Bhutanese restaurant in Woodside, the tiny dining room was full, so I took a seat on the front porch and asked if there was anything hot to drink, to offset the lingering spring chill. Cups of butter tea, cloudy, warm, and as salty as the sea, arrived quickly.
The butter in the tea was made from cow’s milk, as opposed to yak’s milk, as it would be in Bhutan, a small landlocked country in the eastern Himalayas. As Sonam Tshering Singye, a co-owner and the restaurant’s sole server, explained, it’s too expensive to import most fresh ingredients, though many of the kitchen’s drygoods do come from Bhutan. Bovine origin aside, the tea was an excellent introduction to the role of dairy products…