The other night, as I paid my bill at Dunya Kabab House, a new Afghani restaurant in Kensington, in Brooklyn’s Little Pakistan, the young proprietor, Mohamed Ghiasi, sized me up. “You ever go to Astoria?” he asked. Sure, I said, once in a while. “I have another restaurant there,” he said. “For hipsters. Kind of playing to the Bushwick crowd, you know?” I laughed, thoroughly pegged.
Ghiasi opened Little Flower Cafe, on 36th Avenue, in Queens, with his friend Ali Zaman, who, like Ghiasi, is the Brooklyn-born son of an Afghani-born restaurateur. (Sami’s Kebab House, an Afghani restaurant, also in Astoria, is owned by, and named for, Zaman’s father.) Little Flower is a fourth-wave coffee shop seamlessly adapted to halal specifications: the beans are from Sey, perhaps the most anointed…