The other day, on a corner in Ridgewood, Queens, I overheard a woman say, “You know that place is owned by Ukrainians?” She was pointing to Varenyk House, a year-old deli and grocery across the street, where I happened to be headed. “It’s a Ukrainian restaurant.” Her companion squinted. “Interesting!” he said earnestly.
Taking an interest in Ukrainian food following Russia’s vicious and unprovoked military campaign against its smaller neighbor might seem like a meagre response. But after a conversation with Varenyk House’s owner, Stepan Rogulskyi, I saw value in the gesture. When news of the war broke, Rogulskyi, who emigrated, in 2008, from western Ukraine, where his brothers, parents, and grandparents still live, experienced a period of acute, almost unbearable stress. Weeks later, he was angry, but also optimistic.…